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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Derek F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 4:08pm
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They will be great.....they are not true Damascus but the VG-10 steel is awesome stuff.
And the trouble is, if you don't risk anything, you risk even more...Erica Jong
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote petethemeat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 7:11pm
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Originally posted by Derek F Derek F wrote:

Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

lol  our only frying pans are cast iron, getting on to 40 odd yrs old now...and the wok steel, maybe 20yrs.

Nice to know there is still a few who know the difference. 
Yeah, my cast iron fry pan is over 20 years (I paid $9.00 for it)
Hi Derek, how should the cast iron pans be treated?
Cheers!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Derek F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 7:30pm
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Originally posted by petethemeat petethemeat wrote:

Originally posted by Derek F Derek F wrote:

Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

lol  our only frying pans are cast iron, getting on to 40 odd yrs old now...and the wok steel, maybe 20yrs.

Nice to know there is still a few who know the difference. 
Yeah, my cast iron fry pan is over 20 years (I paid $9.00 for it)
Hi Derek, how should the cast iron pans be treated?
Cheers!

If it is not seasoned or hasn't been or is dull or rusty looking do that first. That is wash and scrub clean in soapy water (only time you use soapy water). Rinse and dry with paper towel. Light coat with vegetable oil or melted shortening (my favourite).  Put in preheated oven (280 C) for an hour. Leave in oven to cool off. Should be away after that. If it has wooden handle you might have to do job on element.

Once using never wash in soapy water. I just scrub with nylon dish brush under hot water.

Stays perfect for a long time. 
 
Note ...there is the odd cast iron skillet with a sort of serrated surface. These don't work nearly as well.
 
And the trouble is, if you don't risk anything, you risk even more...Erica Jong
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote petethemeat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 7:34pm
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appreciate it! I have vague recollections of something like this when I worked in a restaurant kitchen as a school kid. I recall oiling them before putting them away - is this needed?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Derek F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 7:34pm
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If it is too coated with stuff that wont come off before you begin you might have to do the heat thing first (very hot for an hour or ) cool off and give a scrub maybe with wire brush....then do the seasoning thing.   Hope that all makes sense?
And the trouble is, if you don't risk anything, you risk even more...Erica Jong
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Derek F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 7:35pm
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Originally posted by petethemeat petethemeat wrote:

appreciate it! I have vague recollections of something like this when I worked in a restaurant kitchen as a school kid. I recall oiling them before putting them away - is this needed?

I don't but that would be ideal yes, and it is what I do with the wok every time.
And the trouble is, if you don't risk anything, you risk even more...Erica Jong
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2016 at 6:18pm
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I do it similar.. when 1st get the pan, clean the crap out of it..even washing machine powder....
Like Derik says NEVER use a cleaner ever again.
We used to fill with  oil or fat whatver near the top. and heat up it very hot, just a wisp on the surface turn the heat off... let cool right down.
Cat is pores, u are opening the cast up getting all the moisture out and when it cools  sort of impregnating the oil / fat into the iron.
Best way to clean is when cooked something up, dish it up , then while pan still hot, dump under water... big steam up and give quick scrubb, throw in the cupboardsrs warn so drys right out.
Do the same wit wok, and the BBQ plates...except the plates a squirt bottle....watch the Chinese takeaways guys..
Poached eggs are the bug thu....a quick spray with canola oil   none stick , or wipe with oily or fatty paper/ cloth does the same trick... but always clean as use.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2016 at 10:54pm
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Personally I use the Lansky, but I bought a medium Arkansas stone and a finer stone. Used with oil, final polish with yellow ceramic and its hair popping sharp.

Heavy duty or larger knives? Scary Sharp is the one
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Fishb8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2016 at 3:37pm
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My 2 Shun kitchen knives:-
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mangre 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2016 at 7:22pm
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Great thread,  I have never managed to get my knives to a standard I bought them in.

But I found a great clip on youtube,  now my hunting knives are soo sharp, one a high carbon steel svord, which I have never been ab le to sharpen. and a stainless steel sticking knife 

The secret is the angle on the stone, circular motion, with the angle at about the same as the back bone off the knife, quite amazing how you can be making the knife blunt if this is not right, if you dont keep a constant angle. Anyway my knives are lethal now. My knives were that bad, I spent a good 1/2 hour to get an edge back, on each Knife

Hope it helps. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote sappercatcha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2016 at 8:32pm
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I use a lansky sharpening system
all my fillet knifes and boneing knifes (I hunt as well) so sharp knifes are not optional all my knifes are victory knifes and are razor sharp all of them will shave me after a sharpen and I use the ultra light stone after each use to bring the edge back on song
super easy to use

http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Kitchen/Lansky-Deluxe-Knife-Sharpening-System/0031111419368

this is the best price I've found for them and well worth the money


plenty of vids on youtube

keep up the good work boys
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote sappercatcha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2016 at 8:56pm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t39rhQs6Hqc

if your good with a stone which I'm not but check out how sharp this guy gets his knife
keep up the good work boys
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote SNOWKIWI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2016 at 3:05pm
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Awesome thread! I have always had trouble getting that fine edge on any knife! Purchased a Lansky set up today at Hunting & Fishing, will report back on my findings! 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Catchelot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 1:09pm
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Great how to video here;


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote bazza Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 10:39am
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Hey Derek ...... as you may recall from our very "memorable" trip out on the Kaipara I tend to have buckets full of lower priced knives that I take out. I also have a couple of better quality knives such as Smith & Wesson & a Buck that you made a sterling job of sharpening one time when I was in Nelson.
 
However I don't find the shape of those knives very appealing to use plus due to the fact I tend to miss use my knives they tend not to last as long as they should between sharpening. Also I am notorious for losing knives thru being left behind or dropped overboard etc. hence the reason I mostly use lower priced knives. To this end I tend to favour the knife sets that Burnsco often have on special ie a 6" filleting knife, sheath & sharpener for $9 - 90. I find considering the price they are remarkable value so usually buy 5 or 6 when they are on special & it does not break your heart if you lose or miss use one, plus always have replacements on hand if the one you are using loses it edge a bit from cutting bait, thru bones or scales or for whatever reason.
 
I also find they initially respond fairly well to simply drawing the blade once or twice thru the carbide sharpener but seems to gradually become less effective. At that point I usually give them a quick pass over the bench grinder ( I can just see you cringing in horror ) then a couple of draws thru the sharpener which restores their cutting ability albeit does not last that long.
 
OK my question is do these ( stainless ) bladed knives only have the cutting edge completely hardened in order to keep the blade flexible as if so this would explain why they respond less & less to ongoing sharpening.
 
In your opinion what is the best way to treat these knives for sharpening as for what they cost hardly seems worthwhile spending a lot of time stoning them, particularly if they any sharpening is not going to last.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote cirrus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 11:21am
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My two best knives which i use for almost everything are well over 100years old, are fairly high carbon and quite easy to sharpen . They were made by Henry Berry & Co ,probably in Melbourne in the 1880s era. Even the brass rivets on the wooden handle are shiny and intact to this day.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OuttaHere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 12:37pm
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Here's something I wish someone had taught me a long long time ago:
For frozen bait, especially with scales and bones, a ****ty serrated tomato style knife will do a way better job than your nicely sharpened filleting blade. The Victrinox ones are cheap, stainless and the edge is bulletproof, great bait knives and will cut mono and braid nicely as a bonus.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Nirai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 3:39pm
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I am a knife freak & Scary Sharp is the best period. I have tried them all & the rest are poor performers.
Buy it, watch the DVD and start turning out razor blades!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Plonker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 4:23pm
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http://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Accessories/Knives+And+Sharpeners/Sharpeners/Scary+Sharp+Precision+Series+Deluxe+Kit.html
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Shilo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 4:40pm
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Originally posted by Plonker Plonker wrote:

http://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Accessories/Knives+And+Sharpeners/Sharpeners/Scary+Sharp+Precision+Series+Deluxe+Kit.html

Ok, officially confused. It looks like a company has grabbed the name Scary Sharp. To me the Scary Sharp method has always been using wet/dry sandpaper on glass like:



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