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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? : When a high carbon steel blade...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646934&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646934</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=87056">Steps</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 27 Jul 2016 at 8:58am<br /><br /><br>When a high carbon steel blade is made it has not been heat treated.. hardened, So shaping etc is done on a grinder...<br>Once the sharp is sorted&nbsp; its heated and quenched hardening the steel ..then&nbsp; cold grounds on a stone for final edge <br>If a knife has not been maintained, lost its edge .. putting on a grinder as a short cut to taking a lot of metal off, created heat... even thousands of inch into it... <br>This soft edge will sharpen but will never hold the fine burr... so much so it becomes very blunt very fast , not requiring a couple light wipes on a stone but re grinding.<br><br>As I stated before&nbsp; different steels are used for different end use, and the angle of the edge depends on the steel and the end use.<br>For general&nbsp; heavy duty use..filletting FISH , bait knives one doesnt need a razor edge and go for around a 30 to 35 deg angle.<br>No different to a chainsaw cutting hard wood.<br>For shaving, cutting the sunday roast, kitchen work around the 20 to 22 deg<br>And for finer stuff like a cut throat razor down to 12 deg.<br><br>Finer the edge the more prone the burr is to breaking off...<br><br>Cheaper heavy duty stainless knives work different<br>High carbon stainless has larger carbon crystals in it...therefore any fine shaving fine burr edge breaks off on the 1st cut....<br>So a steep cutting edge around 33 deg... the carbon crystals fall out of the edge as u use it... these leave a microscopic saw edge with very 'broken' glass type edges<br><br>Our QUAILITY green river kitchen knives&nbsp; pairing carving etc I put on a very fine stone ...not much more than the weight of the knife at 22 degs (by hand) .. around 5 to 20 light strokes brings up a very fine even burr...turn over same other side... turn again 3 to 5 strokes even lighter, then other side.<br>For the rest of the time a couple strokes down the steel straight ends out the fine burr just before use.<br>NEVER draw a fine edge knife over a bone when carving.<br><br>&nbsp;If u want even finer edge and the blade steel is of quality to take it... a dry&nbsp; finish on even finer stone .. usually has drill bit&nbsp; hollows in it (cut throat razor stone) then finished on a leather razor strop impregnated with fine polishing rouge and neatsfoot oil.<br><br>Bait /heavy duty knives.. after each trip out they have 5 to 10 medium heavy strokes around the 33 deg 1st side till just feel the burr, repeat other side... 15 to 20 light stokes at 30 deg till burr just felt, repeat other side and finish with 5 light each side.<br>Bait knives (3) are kept in sheaths attached to the side of the bait board. These are easy sharp enough to fillet fish<br><br><b>Main reasons why ppl have issues sharpening</b><br>Reading thru the above and a little thinking thru&nbsp; will explain why so many ppl have issues getting a good edge...<br>And in most cases this is not due to being able to hold well on a stone...<br>Understand on fine steels,, it is a very fine burr hat IS THE EDGE&nbsp; and a steel doesnt sharpen the knife, just straightens the burr<br>Once the burr is gone, the blade needs re stoning.. the more one puts it off the harder .. time.. it is to get it back.<br>On Work knives.. bait etc... it is the microscopic saw edge that cuts with steeper honed edge. The steeper edge allows for harder 'abuse' between sharpens... and allows the carbon crystals to break away leaving&nbsp; thick enough steel between them for efficient saw action... therefore using a very fine stone makes more of a&nbsp; fine 'hacksaw' tooth&nbsp; with weaker edges rather than a 'rip' saw tooth.<br>&nbsp;And&nbsp; use the right steel for the right job... with the right edge.<br>If u abuse your knives.. ie draw a carving knife over a bone.. keep in a draw.. keep clean after use or leave regular maintenance way too long then everything from being able to hold at a constant angle to time&nbsp; to amount of steel to remove makes getting a final good working edge very difficult even for experienced ppl.<br><br><b>Hint on your FISH filleting knives.</b><br>Around the base have a slightly steeper cutting edge... where you cut up thru pin bones... At the end and tip go for a fine edge....so it slips thru the skin at the bottom of the top fin...and slides up the fold next to the fin up to the head...then cleanly peels back to the spine going down....do not draw the blade over the spine.. lift the flesh and peel back below the ribs thru to the skin other side<br>Same going from top of the head AROUND the skull and fin bones, angled into the head.<br>Repeat other side.<br>THEN slice up as close to the butt.. the steeper honed edge part of the blade thru the pins... repeat cutting up thru pins other side.<br>Keeping the fillet on the 1st side makes the whole process cleaner, simpler with less likely hood of drawing the knife over a bone on the fine&nbsp; honed end.<br>If you want filleting knives to stay sharp then fillet the fish like a chef&nbsp; not like they do on production lines where what is going to be left on the bones will be used for fish cakes etc.. not thrown away.A couple stokes on a the steel and the fillet knife is ready to peel the skins off the pile of fillets.<br><br><br><br>]]>
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   <pubDate>Wed, 27 Jul 2016 08:58:50 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? :   bazza wrote: Hey Derek .........]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646863&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646863</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=73839">Derek F</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 26 Jul 2016 at 5:21pm<br /><br /> <table width="99%"><tr><td class="BBquote"><img src="forum_images/quote_box.png" title="Originally posted by bazza" alt="Originally posted by bazza" style="vertical-align: text-bottom;" /> <strong>bazza wrote:</strong><br /><br />Hey Derek ...... as you may recall from our very "memorable" trip out on the Kaipara I tend to have buckets full of lower priced knives that I take out. I also have a couple of better quality&nbsp;knives such as Smith &amp; Wesson &amp; a Buck that you made a sterling job of sharpening one time&nbsp;when I was in Nelson.<div>&nbsp;</div><div>However I don't find the shape of those knives very appealing to use plus due to the fact I tend to miss use my knives they&nbsp;tend not to last as long as they should between sharpening.&nbsp;Also I am notorious for losing knives thru being left behind or dropped overboard etc.&nbsp;hence the reason I mostly use lower priced knives. To this end&nbsp;I tend to favour the knife sets that Burnsco often have on special ie a 6" filleting knife, sheath &amp; sharpener for $9 - 90. I find considering the price they are&nbsp;remarkable value so usually buy 5 or 6 when they are on special &amp; it does not break your heart if you&nbsp;lose or miss use one, plus&nbsp;always have replacements on hand if the one you are using loses it edge a bit from cutting bait, thru bones or scales or for whatever reason.</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div>I also find they initially&nbsp;respond fairly well to simply drawing the blade once or twice thru the carbide sharpener but seems to gradually become less effective. At that point I usually give them a quick pass over the bench grinder ( I can just see you cringing in horror ) then a couple of draws thru the sharpener which restores their cutting ability albeit does not last that long.</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div>OK my question is do these ( stainless ) bladed knives only have the cutting edge completely hardened in order to keep the blade flexible as if so this would explain why they respond less &amp; less to ongoing sharpening.</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div>In your opinion what is the best way to treat these knives for sharpening as for what they cost hardly seems worthwhile spending a lot of time stoning them, particularly if they any sharpening is not going to last.</div></td></tr></table><div><br></div><div>Hi Bazza, &nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>I think for most people it's not worth having flash knives, especially for fishing things. And you are right in that for most people stoning is not worth the time and even then most people can't do it unless it's a guided system like the Scary Sharp which is good but too slow for commercial purposes.</div><div>I use a slow speed 25mm wide belt (Trizact belts) plus felt with jeweller's rouge too remove burr and polish.</div><div>Having said that, when I was shepherding we always did as you do. Grinder to keep the taper and then steels. (makes me cringe now but it did do the job roughly)</div><div>And regarding the stainless, I don't know whether they are more tempered at the edge but I doubt it when you look at the manufacturing of them.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div>]]>
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   <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2016 17:21:48 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? :   Plonker wrote:http://www.re...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646859&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646859</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=61599">Shilo</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 26 Jul 2016 at 4:40pm<br /><br /> <table width="99%"><tr><td class="BBquote"><img src="forum_images/quote_box.png" title="Originally posted by Plonker" alt="Originally posted by Plonker" style="vertical-align: text-bottom;" /> <strong>Plonker wrote:</strong><br /><br /><a href="http://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Accessories/Knives+And+Sharpeners/Sharpeners/Scary+Sharp+Precisi&#111;n+Series+Deluxe+Kit.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Accessories/Knives+And+Sharpeners/Sharpeners/Scary+Sharp+Precision+Series+Deluxe+Kit.html</a></td></tr></table><div><br></div><div>Ok, officially confused. It looks like a company has grabbed the name Scary Sharp. To me the Scary Sharp method has always been using wet/dry sandpaper on glass like:</div><div><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVF6pUslaeU" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><br></a></div><div><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVF6pUslaeU" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVF6pUslaeU</a></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>]]>
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   <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2016 16:40:47 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? : http://www.reloaders.co.nz/sho...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646856&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646856</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=54338">Plonker</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 26 Jul 2016 at 4:23pm<br /><br /><a href="http://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Accessories/Knives+And+Sharpeners/Sharpeners/Scary+Sharp+Precisi&#111;n+Series+Deluxe+Kit.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Accessories/Knives+And+Sharpeners/Sharpeners/Scary+Sharp+Precision+Series+Deluxe+Kit.html</a>]]>
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   <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2016 16:23:00 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? : I am a knife freak &amp; Scary Sharp...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646852&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646852</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=47462">Nirai</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 26 Jul 2016 at 3:39pm<br /><br />I am a knife freak & Scary Sharp is the best period. I have tried them all & the rest are poor performers. <br />Buy it, watch the DVD and start turning out razor blades!<br />Also NZ made!]]>
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   <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:39:18 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? :  Here&amp;#039;s something I wish...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646837&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646837</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=92416">OuttaHere</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 26 Jul 2016 at 12:37pm<br /><br />Here's something I wish someone had taught me a long long time ago:<div>For frozen bait, especially with scales and bones, a ****ty serrated tomato style knife will do a way better job than your nicely sharpened filleting blade. The Victrinox ones are cheap, stainless and the edge is bulletproof, great bait knives and will cut mono and braid nicely as a bonus.</div>]]>
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   <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2016 12:37:00 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? : My two best knives which i use...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646831&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646831</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=79467">cirrus</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 26 Jul 2016 at 11:21am<br /><br />My two best knives which i use for almost everything are well over 100years old, are fairly high carbon and quite easy to sharpen . They were made by Henry Berry &amp; Co ,probably in Melbourne in the 1880s era. Even the brass rivets on the wooden handle are shiny and intact to this day.<br>]]>
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   <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:21:30 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? :  Hey Derek ...... as you may...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646826&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646826</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=57071">bazza</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 26 Jul 2016 at 10:39am<br /><br />Hey Derek ...... as you may recall from our very "memorable" trip out on the Kaipara I tend to have buckets full of lower priced knives that I take out. I also have a couple of better quality&nbsp;knives such as Smith &amp; Wesson &amp; a Buck that you made a sterling job of sharpening one time&nbsp;when I was in Nelson.<div>&nbsp;</div><div>However I don't find the shape of those knives very appealing to use plus due to the fact I tend to miss use my knives they&nbsp;tend not to last as long as they should between sharpening.&nbsp;Also I am notorious for losing knives thru being left behind or dropped overboard etc.&nbsp;hence the reason I mostly use lower priced knives. To this end&nbsp;I tend to favour the knife sets that Burnsco often have on special ie a 6" filleting knife, sheath &amp; sharpener for $9 - 90. I find considering the price they are&nbsp;remarkable value so usually buy 5 or 6 when they are on special &amp; it does not break your heart if you&nbsp;lose or miss use one, plus&nbsp;always have replacements on hand if the one you are using loses it edge a bit from cutting bait, thru bones or scales or for whatever reason.</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div>I also find they initially&nbsp;respond fairly well to simply drawing the blade once or twice thru the carbide sharpener but seems to gradually become less effective. At that point I usually give them a quick pass over the bench grinder ( I can just see you cringing in horror ) then a couple of draws thru the sharpener which restores their cutting ability albeit does not last that long.</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div>OK my question is do these ( stainless ) bladed knives only have the cutting edge completely hardened in order to keep the blade flexible as if so this would explain why they respond less &amp; less to ongoing sharpening.</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div>In your opinion what is the best way to treat these knives for sharpening as for what they cost hardly seems worthwhile spending a lot of time stoning them, particularly if they any sharpening is not going to last.</div>]]>
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   <pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2016 10:39:42 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? : Great how to video here; ]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1646424&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1646424</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=69254">Catchelot</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 23 Jul 2016 at 1:09pm<br /><br />Great how to video here;<div><br></div><div><iframe width="560" height="350" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Lm53mCOQTR8"  frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><br></div>]]>
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   <pubDate>Sat, 23 Jul 2016 13:09:07 +0000</pubDate>
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   <title><![CDATA[Knife Sharpening ? :  Awesome thread! I have always...]]></title>
   <link>https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117987&amp;PID=1645697&amp;title=knife-sharpening#1645697</link>
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    <![CDATA[<strong>Author:</strong> <a href="https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=48314">SNOWKIWI</a><br /><strong>Subject:</strong> 117987<br /><strong>Posted:</strong> 16 Jul 2016 at 3:05pm<br /><br />Awesome thread! I have always had trouble getting that fine edge on any knife! Purchased a Lansky set up today at Hunting &amp; Fishing, will report back on my findings!&nbsp;]]>
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   <pubDate>Sat, 16 Jul 2016 15:05:34 +0000</pubDate>
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