FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

What I made today

Page  <12345 6>
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 7:49am
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016
Hey Murph & others that are interested,
 
Here is a few things to think about when choosing/using wire for lures.
  • 316 Stainless steel is best for its corrosion properties when used in saltwater, but is more expensive than 304.
  • 304 Stainless steel wire will outlive the lure before corrosion sets in and weakens the wire, thats if you still have the lure not lost it to the seaLOL
  • I think they rate .043" wire at 360lbs, and .051" at 500lbs. So there is some serious grunt in smaller wire sizes.
  • I have tryed .078" and it was way to hard to form loops and wraps by hand, .064" is pretty good by hand and smaller wire will be much easier.

I use .064" which will be well over 500lb breaking strain, I don't use it for its high breaking strain but for the method of loop in the wire.

 
As you can see in the picture of my wire I don't use a twist to lock the loop in, just the tag end of the wire doubled back. This method is pretty common place and you are relying on the strength of the wire to not deform and let the tag end slide out the lure. Smaller wire you will want to lock both ends with a twist.
 
The wire has not much to do with the size of fish also, more to do with having enough strength so twists don't come undone etc.. I am sure no one can put the kind of pressure needed to unravell even some of the smaller wire sizes on to a fish big or small. .051" wire and upwards only needs to be used if you are not locking the loops at either end in wooden or resin lures. Some of the fancy wire bending tools can be really handy for forming wire harness's before making resin lures, I have not used one but I think there may be a clearance problem if trying to use it on the tail end of a lure? it will however form a perfect loop and twist for the tow point.
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Murph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 9:02am
Murph View Drop Down
Forum Sponsor
Forum Sponsor
Avatar

Joined: 20 May 2008
Location: Kerikeri
Status: Offline
Points: 1919
Good one, thanks for that!

I'm going to have a go at applying some epoxy soon, do you have any tips in regards to that?  Where do you get your EnviroTex from, how much should I expect to pay for it?
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 9:26am
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016

Hey guys,

Whilst the topic is somewhat on wire at the moment, here is a quick and easy (also cheap) way of forming loops/eyes and wraps. This is a method I use for the wrap at the rear of a wooden lure, but can be used if wanting a locked loop for the tow point on any lure aswell.
 
First up, grab some round nosed circlip pliers (internal) found at any hardware store etc..
 
 
Now grab the wire tightly near the end of the pliers.
 
 
Use your thumb to bend the wire over to about 45 degrees from straight up and down.
 
 
Now regrip the wire halfway up the pliers and just above the bend you just formed.
 
 
Bend the wire back over the pliers, go right around to the starting point of the very first bend (you may have to reposition the pliers to get right around)
 
 
Reposition the pliers into the eye you formed so the tag end points straight up like in the photo.
 
 
Now using your thumb as a fulcrum and a twist of the pliers bend wire right over (tip - keep your thumb low on the wire for tight bends/wraps)
 
 
Reposition the pliers again so the wire tag is straight up and bend over again using your thumb and a twist with the pliers.
 
 
Keep your twists going untill you have formed as many as you would like ( more is not neccesarily any stronger, 3-4 is plenty)
 
 
All that is left is to trim your tag end, and if you wish give the tag end a squeeze with some regular pliers to squash it in. When using this wrap technique on the tail of a lure giving the wraps a little squeeze will help pretension the wire pulling it tighter in the lure.
 
 
Like all things practice will make for perfect loops/wraps. Grab some scrap wire (doesn't have to be what you will use in a lure) and practice making the wraps etc...
 
Also be careful not to scratch your fancy paint jobs if wiring your lure before epoxyLOL
 
Hope this helps....
 
Will be working on a "How to" in the near future for building a lure, have had quite alot of interest through the PM's about lure making. Before I start though what do you guys want to know? Do you want a start to finish of a lure process? Some things like paint I will leave out picture wise as not that hard, but will include products I have found that work. I may start out with just turning out a lure ready for paint and a quick run down of hardware used for finishing? Any ideas or certain points I should include?
Thanks
 
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 9:38am
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016
Originally posted by Murph Murph wrote:

Good one, thanks for that!

I'm going to have a go at applying some epoxy soon, do you have any tips in regards to that?  Where do you get your EnviroTex from, how much should I expect to pay for it?
 
Murph make sure your mix is 50/50 otherwise AngryCry will be the result. Use scales/syringes/measuring cups as long as you are accurate so you don't end up with a sticky mess.
 
To degass the air bubbles when the epoxy is applied just breathe on your lure (out not in!!!) the co2 in your breath will pop any bubbles, and follow the instructions.
If you have access to a rod lathe or similar you will be able to apply it alot thicker than the brush and hang method.
 
I buy it from a local paint store www.completepaints.co.nz , their online store sells from 118ml @$22.36 to 3.78L @$216.89, so it is not too pricey...
 
**TIP** Buy an epoxy or resin brush to apply, before using the brush grab the bristles and give them a few tugs and get rid of any loose bristles. I learnt the hard wayLOLLOL kinda like the mozzi that always land on fresh paint!
 
Good luck
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tas-tackle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 10:56am
tas-tackle View Drop Down
Titanium
Titanium
Avatar

Joined: 28 Apr 2007
Location: Cable Bay NZ
Status: Offline
Points: 3770
RAL... In your first picture you show a nice loop.. with the ends parallel... to my mind the strength is through the length of rod so could you not just use a long ali crimp..  crimped some 3 times to hold the ends together.. this, then inside the lure would not allow the short end to open... 

http://www.tas-tackle.co.nz
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Murph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 11:03am
Murph View Drop Down
Forum Sponsor
Forum Sponsor
Avatar

Joined: 20 May 2008
Location: Kerikeri
Status: Offline
Points: 1919
Thanks for the wire bending tip Real Appeal, that's a lot easier than what I've been doing.

I'd be interested in seeing a how to from start to finish of a basic lure.  I don't have a lathe or drill press or any fancy gear for that matter but I would still be interested to see these things in operation.  It would also be good to know where to source decent components such as grommets and eyes etc instead of having to scratch around the garage for any old piece of junk that might do the trick.  Painting and finishing off to get a really professional look would be good too.  I assume you are air brushing your lures, not using the Bunnings spray cans that I'm on at the moment??

Cheers.
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 11:14am
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016
Originally posted by *fisher* *fisher* wrote:

RAL... In your first picture you show a nice loop.. with the ends parallel... to my mind the strength is through the length of rod so could you not just use a long ali crimp..  crimped some 3 times to hold the ends together.. this, then inside the lure would not allow the short end to open... 
 Just to make sure this is what you where explaining-
 
I had also thought of a crimp when I was worried about the tag end pulling out. Did some research and found that lures rigged exactly like the pic with no crimp or wrap to lock it have caught some very large fish ( atlantic bluefin etc ) The key is the wire's strength against deformation of the eye bent in the wire. I don't know of any lure builder that has had the tag end pull out of the lure, most just lock it with a wrap to be extra sure.  I don't have a reel that could put that much pressure on a fish to deform  the wire.... hmm need some scales for a testWink
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tas-tackle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 11:19am
tas-tackle View Drop Down
Titanium
Titanium
Avatar

Joined: 28 Apr 2007
Location: Cable Bay NZ
Status: Offline
Points: 3770
wow...Thanks for that.. exactly,  and even if one had doubts, two crimps back to back..
Also even leaving the long length straight with a loop below..  like a half circle.. whether this would affect the hook action ?? 
My original thoughts were the crimps would allow an easier insert into the lure being a fixed size..
The loop has to break.. or the short end has to open.. for a fish to be lost... and being inside a lure, pressure of the short end against the inside of the lure would be another reason to concur with what you say (even with no twists)

http://www.tas-tackle.co.nz
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 11:55am
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016
Originally posted by *fisher* *fisher* wrote:

wow...Thanks for that.. exactly,  and even if one had doubts, two crimps back to back..
Also even leaving the long length straight with a loop below..  like a half circle.. whether this would affect the hook action ?? 
My original thoughts were the crimps would allow an easier insert into the lure being a fixed size..
The loop has to break.. or the short end has to open.. for a fish to be lost... and being inside a lure, pressure of the short end against the inside of the lure would be another reason to concur with what you say (even with no twists)
 
This is the easiest way to figure it all out Fisher, if I may quote a fellow lure builders words on this topic. "Wire size choice is to resist tearing /cracking of the wire when the lure is sideways in a fish's mouth etc & resist loop type unravelling rather than any strength requirement related to fish size as the line pressure is limited to what the angler can put out rather than the size of the fish."
 
Some high end reels for lure fishing put out 30-40lbs max, hell I couldn't fish that much drag for any amount of timeLOL Some may settle for a more fishable 15-18lbs of drag but either way it is going to take alot more than 40lb to open the eye, I would like to try with some scales out of interest but may have a hard time finding some heavy enoughBig smile
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 12:11pm
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016
Originally posted by Murph Murph wrote:

Thanks for the wire bending tip Real Appeal, that's a lot easier than what I've been doing.

I'd be interested in seeing a how to from start to finish of a basic lure.  I don't have a lathe or drill press or any fancy gear for that matter but I would still be interested to see these things in operation.  It would also be good to know where to source decent components such as grommets and eyes etc instead of having to scratch around the garage for any old piece of junk that might do the trick.  Painting and finishing off to get a really professional look would be good too.  I assume you are air brushing your lures, not using the Bunnings spray cans that I'm on at the moment??

Cheers.
 
No worries Murph, will start work on one for you this weekend. I think its more the tips and tricks that make it easier than seeing a lure made in steps so will include what I can. Now components, How deep are your pockets Murph?Shocked These are mostly from the USA a google search will get you going, freight is a killer.
I do use airbrush but lately with all the rain it is driving my nutsAngry even with a water trap the humidity gets in the compressor and ruins your paint job....Spray cans can have there advantagesBig smile That last bait you made looked pretty slick..even some stencil work and no bloody clean up from airbrushing!!! 
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote fish i Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 12:32pm
fish i View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Location: ngahinemotu
Status: Offline
Points: 1748
Awesome RAL, just what I needed, it's been giving me a headache trying to get those wraps right. Only just found this thread. Classic, Kiwi thinking going on with these stick bait creations. Instead of going and forking out $260 for a Japanese lure, kiwis just think, I'll make one of those myself.
6th place in the inaugural Te Kauwhata Regionals paddle crab division
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote fish i Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 12:36pm
fish i View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Location: ngahinemotu
Status: Offline
Points: 1748
Originally posted by Murph Murph wrote:

A natural wood stick bait and another larger one I am working on.  I have no idea whether they will work or not but I've had a good bit of fun working on them
 

Awesome Murph. I have just shaped one out of Cedar and looks so nice, I don't want to paint it. Wouldn't think I need to seal it either being cedar. Nice working with wood again instead of the toxic stuff I've been making jigs out of.

6th place in the inaugural Te Kauwhata Regionals paddle crab division
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote xport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 5:07pm
xport View Drop Down
Silver
Silver
Avatar

Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 425
Some nice looking lures and great tips there. What do you guys reckon the best wood to use is? I might give this a crack.
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 7:59pm
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016
Originally posted by xport xport wrote:

Some nice looking lures and great tips there. What do you guys reckon the best wood to use is? I might give this a crack.
 
Hey there xport, all depends on what type of lure and how you want it to fish. You can get all techy with density etc but most wood will float well enough for making a popper. Popular wood for lures are Yellow cedar, maple, red cedar, birch etc.. great if you have this available to you, I have been using Radiata pine because I work in a sawmill and its what I can get easily. At the moment I am trying some Paulownia for stick baits, it is similar to balsa wood but a bit heavier but still extremely bouyant, I want super bouyant wood so the stick bait pops out of the water after a sweep with the rod similar to the Carpenter Live Bait Gamma lure. Just use what you can hold of mate unless you want a specific action/style of lure.
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote xport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 8:34pm
xport View Drop Down
Silver
Silver
Avatar

Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 425
Thanks RAL, I'm a builder so have access to a fair variety of species. I'll try a bit of good ole radiata for a starter then....many thanks
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Murph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 9:38pm
Murph View Drop Down
Forum Sponsor
Forum Sponsor
Avatar

Joined: 20 May 2008
Location: Kerikeri
Status: Offline
Points: 1919
Here's the latest one.....
 
 
 
 
Decided to go with some wings on this one.  The tow point is looking quite tidy now but getting the tail wraps nice is still a bit of a challenge.
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2010 at 7:00am
ReelAppealLures View Drop Down
Platinum
Platinum
Avatar

Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Status: Offline
Points: 1016

Nice flying fish MurphSmile

It is amazing how quickly your lures have improved after only 3 attempts. I am sure others will find this impressive enough to give it a whirl themselves..Well doneClap
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Murph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2010 at 8:29am
Murph View Drop Down
Forum Sponsor
Forum Sponsor
Avatar

Joined: 20 May 2008
Location: Kerikeri
Status: Offline
Points: 1919
Thanks mate.  It is quite addictive once you have done a few you sort of get a few more ideas in your head that you want to try out.  I've been meaning to make a few resin trolling lures for some time too, might have to get my finger pulled out on that front soon as well.
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Murph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2010 at 9:13pm
Murph View Drop Down
Forum Sponsor
Forum Sponsor
Avatar

Joined: 20 May 2008
Location: Kerikeri
Status: Offline
Points: 1919
These have a single coat of epoxy....
 
 
 
 
The pics don't do them justice, the shine is really nice but I'm going to give them another coat or two of epoxy yet.
Back to Top
Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote skidoggg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2010 at 11:41am
skidoggg View Drop Down
Titanium
Titanium
Avatar

Joined: 09 May 2009
Status: Offline
Points: 3855
good stuff thanx for sharing guys !murfph have you tried using an electric sander to shape up the wood then finish by hand? and a tip for painting when the moisture in the air is causing the paint to "bloom" or go cloudy  is to us a splash  of slow thinners to your paint
Back to Top
Page  <12345 6>
Forum Jump
Forum Permissions View Drop Down


This page was generated in 0.125 seconds.