Mistakes to avoid

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Mike12fttin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2012 at 1:44pm
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I've had my smoker about 8 years now, and the structure is as good as what it was when I was first given it.  The foil isn't affected at all and it certainly makes clean up a lot easier.
 
You still need to give it a good clean out every now and then to get rid of grease build ups.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:50pm
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Avoiding the juvenile snapper hordes: Sometimes every bait that hits the water is stripped in seconds by tiny snapper. They can decimate a bag of pillies in 20mins flat. Here are some strategies:


Use big, tough baits. Whole fish heads, whole kahawai fillets, whole small fish like jack macks and piper last a lot longer. Salted baits are tougher, too. Using salted baits helps too. Here's an article I wrote for NZFN last year:


Nowadays I don't drain the liquid away out the bottom of the bin, I keep it in there, but otherwise I still do it like this.

Use bait elastic. It comes in rolls for a couple of bucks a go. You bait your hook/hooks as normal then criss-cross the bait elastic over it many times. It will slow down the rate at which your bait disappears, but you'll still get pretty ravaged. The little buggers will still shred you. Hopefully though you'll buy enough time for something bigger to barge in and hook up. You can also get good stuff from haberdashers from a fraction of the price. 

Try crabs. Snapper love crabs. Just about every one you catch in reefy areas is packed with them. Those big purple rock crabs are great baits, as they're tough enough to resist the little fellers. There's a knack to rigging them, but one easy way is to kill them with a knife in between the eyes (deep and waggle it from side to side), rip one of the back legs off and feed the hook through the socket and out the middle of the belly. Then wrap it well with bait elastic to hold the hook in place.

Softies: softbaits tend to weed out the smaller fish. They'll snip the tails off the more fragile baits, though. Zman are great.



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 10:04pm
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Don't overcook fish. Once it's hot, it's cooked. This happens at 50-55 degrees C. For thicker pieces of fish, this can be a problem, because the outside will cook long before the inside is done. One way around this is to reduce the size of fillets, by cutting them into scallops/steaks, or slicing them lengthwise to make two thinner fillets. 

Am a bit out of my depth on this issue, but maybe the Cook could give some more pointers?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kenshin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 10:48pm
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Get off the internet and go fishing. Do it.

"A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way. "
Mark Twain
Be patient and calm – for no one can catch fish in anger. –Herbert Hoover
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2012 at 7:06am
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Avoid carrying a cat by the tail. She bit me.

If you have to scale a fish inside, do it in a plastic bag in the sink. It's not foolproof, but if you scale it on the bench you'll be finding dried scales around the house for months. The plastic bag catches most of them.

Shoes for rock fishing: Shoes that let the water drain out are a good option. Make sure you soak them well in a bucket of fresh water after they've been in the sea, as the salt water rots the material very quickly. These are pretty good, from Kathmandu:



Avoid wearing gumboots on the rocks. Have seen this on the West Coast. If you go in, they fill with water and drag you down for the hagfish.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 10:06pm
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Catching baitfish. When I was a kid in Hawke's Bay we got pretty good at catching the local baitfish: mostly sprats (Yellow-Eyed Mullet, aka herring), but also yellowtail mackerel (horse mackerel;"yakkas") and piper (garfish). We got pretty ghetto about it too, pulling rocks out of the retaining wall and dropping them on the sprats' heads to stun them; jagging them with big trebles, making hoop nets etc. Dad would cook them or we'd take them live for a treat for the kingfish and kahawai at Napier Aquarium. 

Here are some things that work for me:

White bread. Just about everything that swims (or walks and flies) loves this stuff. As berley it's excellent for baitfish, on its own or sexed up with some fish oil. If you get two slices, one on each hand and rub them against each other, a fine crumbline will get the fish hot and bothered. You can also put the slices in a berley bag and they'll just fragment and disperse. Gulls normally pick up the larger bits that float away: don't stress about this, as it means the action stays close.  Bread can also be used as bait, just take a bit from the middle of the slice and pinch it onto the hook.

Small hooks. Trout nymph hooks are excellent, and you usually get more hooks for your buck than dedicated saltwater bait hooks. They can also handle it when a kahawai or parore grabs your bait, provided you play them properly. I like to squash the barb with a pair of pliers. This makes it a lot easier to get livebait off the hook in good shape, and also to get the hook out of your hand. Size 12 to 16 is a good range. Don't be fooled by the small size, they're designed to land big trout and can handle a lot of pressure.

Fine line: Tiny trout hooks can only take fine diameter line, which is actually good, because it makes your bait a lot more attractive. It's worth using a leader of 8lb fluoro between your mainline and hook. If you aren't to confident with joining knots between lines, use a tiny swivel as a link between mainline and leader.

Floats: For most purposes round floats like this are pretty good:

The metal bits in them rust incredibly quickly though, so give them a thorough rinse/spray with protectant if you want them to last a few sessions. Fine pencil floats are better for piper, but they take a bit more rigging, unless you can find them with a spring attachment like these round ones.

Dough bait is good, but make sure you get the consistency right, it needs to be pretty sticky to stay on the hook. Use flour and water and mix it together to a sticky lump. You can add fish oil, but I haven't found it necessary. The dough is very bright underwater and all sorts of fish love it. Parore in particular go at it like a bull at a gate.


If you tear up cotton wool and mix it in, the bait stays on the hook a lot longer. 

Sabikis: In my experience these work a lot better if the flies are attached so that they hang out from the main stem of line, not dangle flat along it. A bit hard to explain, but it's the opposite of this:

This means you usually need to cut off the (crappy) swivel and snap that comes with the rig and replace them so that the swivel is at what was the bottom, and the sinker at the top. Genie clips at both ends are a good option. A tiny piece of bait on each hook adds to the appeal. Even tiny scraps of a pillie fillet work, although something tough like squid or kahawai skin with some meat on it lasts longer.

I've found that sabikis actually store well in the sandwich size ziplock bags from Glad. They also store well in trace/CD wallets (see post below). Just make sure you soak them in fresh water and hang them to dry thoroughly after, or they'll rust very quickly. They don't tangle too much this way.



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Jet_ski_fisher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 10:35pm
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sabikis get some old trace holders that take the ready to go rigs droppers wrap em up in that when dry and they have slits em them to or get polystyrene and wrap em up on that and you wont ever get any tangles.. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Chaser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 10:58pm
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Waterblasters are great for scaling fish!

I was cleaning the boat with the waerblaster after a trip, when I decided to clean the blood etc off a few kahawai before preparing them for the smoker. If you stand on the tail and blast them at a 45 degree angle towards the head the scales come of in seconds without damaging the skin. Quick, effective, but bloody scales everywhere!LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MrRabbit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 11:59pm
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Mistakes to avoid:

Putting your $350 light tackle set up in a hole in the rock, underestimating the size of the snapper that just grabbed your 2/0 hook (big), and letting the bugger tear the rod and reel out of your hands as you lift it out of said improvised holder to strike, and into the tide like I did today.
The last I saw of it was literally as it shot away from me through the water like a submerged javelin.
I'm so furious about this I'm going back tomorrow with my diving gear to get it back, how far could the fish get one asks, towing an 8' noodle rod+reel with 20 metres of braid between rod & fish?
I'll tell you tomorrow...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Capt Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2012 at 12:08am
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With sabikis... in order to make them hang properly, you have them so that the nylon of the dropper comes off the mainline pointing UP, not down along the mainline. This way the flies hang out away from the line and do not tangle, and bob about most invitingly for baitfish to grab.
When taking baitfish off a sabiki (or indeed any hook) to have for livebaits, try to touch them as little as possible.  With a sabiki, you need not even touch them at all, simply have a butter knife handy.
When you get your fish to the side of the boat, lift them smoothly on the sabiki over top of your water, bait-tank, whatever. Hold the trace, slide the butter knife along the dropper line until it comes down into the mouth of the hook, that is, on the inside of the hook, not the outside of the hook. Then press your thumb hard against the shank of the hook, holding it securely against the blade of the knife. It is then a simple matter of flipping the hook, and fish, upside down, the fish will, by using its own weight, pull off and fall free of the hook easily without you ever needing to touch the fish, straight into your bait-tank.
Using a butter knife is easiest as the blunt knife will not accidentally cut off your bait-flies or your thumb if you make a stuff-up.
By not touching the fish at all, they will remain far healthier and last longer as a livie than something you have grabbed, squeezed hard and wrestled off the hook, onto the deck, into the bilge, back out again, bounced off the seat, into the bait bucket, fished out at last and hurtled into the bait-tank. That is a newbie game... :-)
Of course, should you want dead baits, well, that doesn't matter at all.
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Since sabikis came out to us welly wood pilchard hunters in the late 80's i have never ever used a "butter knife" to get them off, and i dont even have to grab them, i just grab the hook bend near there mouth and they just fall off..two 40ltr chilly bins full of em in 5 hours or so fishing for them :) tuna oiled mack fillets
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2012 at 6:22am
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Originally posted by MrRabbit MrRabbit wrote:

Mistakes to avoid:

Putting your $350 light tackle set up in a hole in the rock, underestimating the size of the snapper that just grabbed your 2/0 hook (big), and letting the bugger tear the rod and reel out of your hands as you lift it out of said improvised holder to strike, and into the tide like I did today.
The last I saw of it was literally as it shot away from me through the water like a submerged javelin.
I'm so furious about this I'm going back tomorrow with my diving gear to get it back, how far could the fish get one asks, towing an 8' noodle rod+reel with 20 metres of braid between rod & fish?
I'll tell you tomorrow...
Shoot mate, that's some bad luck. Good luck getting it back.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2012 at 8:02am
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Originally posted by Chaser Chaser wrote:

Waterblasters are great for scaling fish!

I was cleaning the boat with the waerblaster after a trip, when I decided to clean the blood etc off a few kahawai before preparing them for the smoker. If you stand on the tail and blast them at a 45 degree angle towards the head the scales come of in seconds without damaging the skin. Quick, effective, but bloody scales everywhere!LOL

Great tip mate. Will give it a go.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MrRabbit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2012 at 9:04am
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Mistakes to avoid:

Putting your $350 light tackle set up in a hole in the rock, underestimating the size of the snapper that just grabbed your 2/0 hook (big), and letting the bugger tear the rod and reel out of your hands as you lift it out of said improvised holder to strike, and into the tide like I did today.
The last I saw of it was literally as it shot away from me through the water like a submerged javelin.
I'm so furious about this I'm going back tomorrow with my diving gear to get it back, how far could the fish get one asks, towing an 8' noodle rod+reel with 20 metres of braid between rod & fish?
I'll tell you tomorrow...
Shoot mate, that's some bad luck. Good luck getting it back.

Cheers mate but it wasn't bad luck, it was poor management and sloppy technique. I had one of those wee voice nagging me in the back of my head things going on all day about putting it where I did and I paid for not listening to my better judgement. 
Fortunately I was just fishing off the rock at Musick Pt, so hopefully the fish tangled it in the foul before he got too far & low tide will lay all bare.
Otherwise, if anyone catches a fish attached to a TiCa 8' graphite softie rod & a Shimano Symetre reel, that fish is mine....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2012 at 10:32pm
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Left hand wind reels: I'm right handed, but prefer the handle of my reel on the left side. This is so you can cast with the right and start winding with the left the moment the lure/bait hits the water. Otherwise you have to cast with the right then swap to the left to begin your retrieve. Useful for spinning especially, but also for shallow water etc. 

Snapped rod tips. If you snap off the tip of your rod (car door, running into something, standing on it), you can usually fix it yourself. Hold the tip with a pair of longnose pliers and move the sleeve of the eye back and forth over a cigarette lighter until the glue melts. Then pull the rod material out of the tip sleeve by grabbing it with a rag. 

You should hopefully be able to slip the tip back over the remaining end of the rod. Cut it off cleanly with a craft knife. Cover the rod end with araldite or some other glue and put the rod tip over it. Square it up with the rest of the eyes on the rod and let it set.

If the rod is too thick to take the sleeve of the tip eye, you can try sanding it down to size, and you can also heat the sleeve with a lighter again to make it expand and hopefully fit. Otherwise you'll need to buy a new tip eye with a wider sleeve.

Drag care: Never leave the drag tightened on your reels when they're not in use. Drags are made from compressible materials like rubber. When they're compressed for a long time they stay compressed, losing their spring and thus their range/smoothness etc. This also applies to baitrunner drags at the back of the reel. Leave them all loose once you've cleaned off the salt and gunk and sprayed the reel with protectant.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MrRabbit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2012 at 1:42am
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Recall thee that Dubloon I nailed to the fo'mast? The one that had his name on it?

Take it, let it be yours, lest I l ken thee better me for that fish...Evil Smile
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Originally posted by MrRabbit MrRabbit wrote:

Recall thee that Dubloon I nailed to the fo'mast? The one that had his name on it?

Take it, let it be yours, lest I l ken thee better me for that fish...Evil Smile
"Towards thee I roll, thou all-destroying but unconquering whale; to the last I grapple with thee; from hell’s heart I stab at thee; for hate’s sake I spit my last breath at thee."
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2012 at 8:59pm
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Trace holders: CD cases are great. I've had these two for about 5 years and they're going strong. 


One I use for kingfish traces, one for snapper etc. The kingfish one also has three or four piper traces ready tied. Saves pissing around on the rocks/boat with tiny hooks, fine line and swivels etc.

I use genie clips and swivels as connectors.

 For snapper straylining it's usually no problem to tie traces on the spot, but for ledger rigs it can take up a lot of fishing time to retie after you've busted off. Also more intricate traces like pulley rigs are easier to tie in the evening after work when you're not much good for anything else than tying knots. Much better to do it now instead of when you're fishing. You can be sure your knots are well tied, the hooks are sharp etc.

Have tried using ziplock bags but they tend to be pretty slippery and disorganised the way I've used them. Maybe a big bulldog clip would hold them together well.

When you have a whole lot of used traces at the end of the day, this type of bag is useful. You just chuck the used terminals, including poppers, breakout sinkers, jigs, traces etc in it, then empty it into a bucket of fresh water at home. 



I got it at Whitcoull's, it's a document wallet or something. Has been good for the last 3 years and is showing no signs of wear.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ahab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2012 at 9:02pm
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Sabikis store surprisingly well in the trace wallets. 

Remember, never put traces back in the CD case straight from the sea. Soak them in fresh water overnight and dry them well. Else the salt will bugger them and the traces in neighbouring pockets.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MrWildabeast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2012 at 9:33pm
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Ahab, an amazing thread bro you've put a lot of effort in and heaps of great information!!Clap
Here fishy..fishy....
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