mattoo - if you get the whole vibrastop kit it includes the mounting bushes as well as the pad.

Hi all thanks for all your input. I have a current update which has progressed to a very good result. As I mentioned I had the vibrastop installed so that was pad and bushes which required the holes to be opened up and tubes put in there place. I also asked that the motor be raised 20mm to reduce the backsplash coming from the cavitation plate.
First time out vibration slightly reduced but spray became even more excessive.
After my trip I remeasured the position of the cavitation plate as I had taken offsets to give me a datum point through all the whole procedures.
Now that datum provided some very interesting results. As I had already known the motor was set to low in the water.
So after the vibra pack was installed and the motor raised one bolt hole position basically another 20mm the true result was the motor was actually lowered 5mm.
Hence the continued vibration and the extra water from the cavitation plate.
How could this happen you may ask, well its really quite simple.In setting the tubes to replace the bolt hole points for the vibra bushes the accuracy of this was partially out, this in conjunction with when the motor was re-installed and not held true to the transom while securing the bolts it sagged in the bushes they are rubber of course and over their length this can be quite an amount.
So i raised the motor 40 mm (2 more bolt holes) held the motor true to the bolt hole centres of the transom and secured it correctly.
I returned to the dealer explained the situation, no point arguing with me here, and they completed a service and I went to the water for a test.
Finally I had the motor i had thought I had bought with a boat doing all the right things. Vibration now minimal. no backwash virtually from the cavitation plate. All is good in life and I have a very powerful boat that shot holes to twenty knots in what seems like 50'. Really impressive.
To keep you informed here the vibration was caused by two main areas. No proper vibration pad and bush installation in the first place and to exacerbate the vibration a pounding from the water from an improperly set cavitation plate position backwash against the transom.
I believe now that I'm within 5 -10mm of the sweet spot on the motor height but this could put me in the realms of the edge of cavitation . I will test it more in a variety of sea states and loads before any more adjustments are made.

As for the question about leg length one thing to take in mind is that all outboards suffer from too much moisture coming thru the air intake, As motors have developed there have been more complex air intake ducting in conjunction with heating areas do capture moisture and drain this mist off prior to the final air to petrol mix. The water getting into this air intake area is vey fine atomised water particles and can be very difficult to see. Causes of this mist come from appendages in the water i.e. speedo, transom mounted sounders and the like, remove anything you don't need. Ever wondered why your older motor always seems to have corrosion under the hood even though you always spray crc or clean regularly the motor and you suffer electrical issues well know you know. One of the combinations of preventions is to raise the height of the motor and therefore the intake point, hence the longer leg.

Hi Matteo

Hi,