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Vibration issues

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=94825
Printed Date: 08 Jun 2026 at 3:11pm


Topic: Vibration issues
Posted By: MATTOO
Subject: Vibration issues
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 8:56am
Just repowered by 5.5 surtees with a suzuki 115hp 4 stroke 25" leg.
Motor quiet when idling yay. But up and running booo. It seems noisy and the vibrations are so far, through the range. Have not done full throttle yet as still only running in.
Yes will look at prop but really this is f in annoying.
Searched for threads not enouh info hence my own post.
At this point it has taken out all the joy out of a new motor.
Would appreciate so good direction .



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Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!



Replies:
Posted By: RC1
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 10:20am
invest in some good vibra-stop pads that go between the engine and hull.


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 10:39am
Have pad, Is there a brand or composite difference.



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Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 12:06pm
Mattoo - 4/strokes are so differnt in noise characteristics than the 2/s that they can still seem noisy.  Need to jump back on a 2/s for benchmarking.

In saying that I have found the Suzukies I have been on to be a bit more noisy (gutteral?)  than the Yammys when under the hammer.

There are variances even with same engine  -  last November I swapped out a 700hr 2006 F150 Yammy for an new 2012 F150 Yammy on same boat Surt 6.1HT with same mounting pads and  the new engine is definitely noiser than the old unit.

Also the Surt Hard Tops can be a resonance box.... the local dealer was steering folk away from the DF140 on the 6.1 HT's in favour of the DF150 due to resonance .  And the DF140/115 used to be twins - do not think that is the case now though.

Why don't you PM Davo and discuss - he has run his DF115 in on the 5.5HT .


Posted By: Fissure
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 12:26pm
yeah hopefully davo will chime in then you can compare apples. my DF50A has a slight ringing noise between 1400-2000 revs which i'm assured is the pinion rising up very slightly, (not shimmed on 40, 50 and 60hp) until the load comes on. the motor is so quiet it was killing my enjoyment until the dealer came out with me and explained it in detail. i still think its crazy it does this. i've heard there are other products out there as well as the vibra-stop. just make sure its not the bait board or something...



Posted By: Jet_ski_fisher
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 12:33pm
my 2 stroke use to hum like hell, found out the virbra stop did work but not as well, so took it off, and found out the bolts did not have washers as ya call em on them under the main metal washers, so was metal on metal. but changed them and things was sweet as. so was sweet as when metal on metal was eliminated.. 

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http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">
MH... Catch measure release...<*))))<


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 12:53pm
Thanks guys, I will keep waiting for more responses though. 
Use the boat very regularly so know the feeling/sound between my old 2 stroke and now the sound of the 4. Good point though.
Not a hard top but there is definetly a resonance there, harmonic hum whatever.(it is an alloy boat...but)
Will check the bolt points know exactly what you mean there. They should be in sleeved or collard washer to remove the two hard surfaces will check that out.
Fitted by a Suzuki dealer so I will contact them on monday. I just want to have as much info, research and inspection done before conversation.
And importantly you guys have like me so many experiences and skills that I should be able to gain some excellent info as have so far.
Cheers guys keep it pumping.


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Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Durban
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 1:49pm
if you have fiddled with the plug wires & perhaps put one cap on the wrong plug it will through the timing out too & the motor will vibrate


Posted By: fillets
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 2:25pm
The vibra stop if retrofitting it do u need just the pads between the hull and motor or the whole system (bolt holders and all) needs to be installed? I've just put a new 200 Suzuki on my boat and the vibrations up abit


Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 2:39pm
with regard to Durbans post:

Is the performance ok? If it isn't performing well or is thirsty it could be a misfire/tuning issue. If a plug cap is on wrong it will run terribly!


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Best gurnard fisherman in my street


Posted By: fillets
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 2:52pm
Performance and economy are sweet as just that vibration was a slight issue did jump up from a 150 opti but



Posted By: Norseman
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 3:31pm
You mentioned you have a 25" extra long shaft Suzuki on your 5.5 Surtees. Curious is that what that transom is design for?

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"Nothing is so strong as gentleness, nothing so gentle as real strength." St. Francis de Sales


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 4:38pm
Just to highlight, looking for questions I haven't asked myself Stern Smile, or those with real time experience  Geek.
It is brand new, 2 hours old. It has vibra pad, the transom designed to suit under surtees instruction.




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Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: plastic
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 11:44pm
I had an anoying vibration type drumming at the cruizing revs on my 5.5 workmate, folding top with a honda 90. If you held on to the steering wheel and moved your head back as far as you can it dissappeared so it must have been resonance in the cabin, considerred lining it but bought a 6.1 with a F150 instead. Nice


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Why is the man who invests your money called a "Broker"


Posted By: Denny Boy
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2013 at 9:43am
Hi-a mate of mine has a 5.5 with the 90 Zuk and that is as quiet as under idle and normal cruising, no vibra-stop or any noise dampening control on it but under power it's appreciably noisier than the 115 Opti that I have on my 5.5. I'm talking straight-out motor noise here as there isn't any noticeable droning that I can detect. Having said all this I had a 90 Zuk on a Stabi and that had a really loud drone at around 4000rpm enough to make pins and connections vibrate as well as your head. It could possibly be a particular character of these motors, I haven't been in a boat with other 4 strokes to compare. 


Posted By: 3rnzir
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2013 at 10:18pm
What about trying different propellor hub brands?


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Peace.Via superior firepower..


Posted By: Men In Black
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2013 at 6:58pm
I orginal had the DF115 on our 6.1 Surtees workmate..
it had similar vibration issues at certain revs, just happened to be cruising speed... we changed the prop to a smaller pitch in the end and it settled down about 70% better. Funny thing was when I upgraded the motor to the bigger DF150 in 2010 all vibration just disappeared...the old motor was fitted to my neighbors 610 Sportscraft as an upgrade from his old Merc 115 2stroke, he ended up having to fit the original Suzuki prop back on the DF115 to stop the thing from vibrating. All alloy boats resonate to some degree.


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www.synit.co.nz


Posted By: Davo
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2013 at 7:46pm
Sorry for being slow on the feedback. Ive gone from a 90hp to a 115hp (both suzuki 4 strokes) on my 5.5 hardtop. The difference in handling and performance is awesome. I had vibration issues to start. I have a vibra stop pad (always had one). It seems to help. I wasnt happy with the vibration noises so got my dealer to drop the engine one hole, tweak the bolts up a bit more and i put in some of the insul tape for window draughts in on the rear battery compartment and that pretty much killed the noises. I still get a low drumming through the hull at very low revs when the engine is in gear but im used to it now and figure itll help raise big pelagics...hope thats useful.



Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 8:58am
Been watching and appreciate the feedback. 
I have taken all on board and with my own experience in chassis construction and vibration issues have taken a course to remedy.
Firstly there are as you all have seen a number of areas to take into account and all play there part. It is a matter of eliminating the obvious until you end up with the acceptable compromise in some situations.
My course of action has been to seek your feedback which is real time experience, professional mechanics experience and my own.
I have implemented the next stage which is to drill out the existing mounting bolt points in the transom and replace with tubes to accept a bushing rubber of which there are many grades.
Hard surfaces to hard surfaces, ie; motor bracket, to bolt, to transom is really unacceptable. Think cars early hard suspension or no engine bushing to todays isolated componentry.
Add a vibra pad and collared bushes as mentioned before.
This is stage two.
The next stage if required will be to assess the prop size/pitch, as the range of the prop sizes is very good for this motor and I'm starting with a 20" S/S.
If this all fails then the remaining options will fall into the category of acceptable conditions as the motor can be such that its natural harmonics are just that, and in relation to the the hull or boat construction and its own natural harmonics.
Thanks again for your input and when mods and trials are completed I will inform you of my results.
I can suggest to you all that as consumers of products you should ask since it is not yet standard practice for installation, will your motor be mounted with vibration taken into account and at what cost. This is particularly important with alloy construction. Though a sea trial on a boat and motor formula that is the same as the set up you are going to use/install will be most informative.
The cost for my above re-installation method may not be cheap but for my needs is an important area of my overall boating enjoyment. Just like TAS syndrome, I have BESS ( boat enjoyment satisfaction syndrome ). 


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Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Fissure
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 9:24am
try giving john butler a ring at butler marine in CHC, i remember he said to me that they market anti-vibration products. worth a call.


Posted By: Moki Marko
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 10:34am
mattoo - if you get the whole vibrastop kit it includes the mounting bushes as well as the pad.


Posted By: Contract
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2013 at 5:07pm
I am / was experiencing a "vibration" in my new 100hp 4 /
First prop ~ no problems, but rev'd too high.
Changed both style & pitch and the whole boat seemed to "shudder" through the rev range. I described it as "cavitation-like" buy "not cavitation". Your description probably far more accurate.
I am finding that all props seem to have differing characteristics. It's not just a matter of "chucking a propeller of so and so pitch" on the back.
I have solved my problem by going to a 4 blade prop. Completely smooth right through the revs. Just playing with the pitch now. Have you a dealer that will loan you a 4 blade to try ?


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2013 at 9:47pm
Hi all thanks for all your input. I have a current update which has progressed to a very good result. As I mentioned I had the vibrastop installed so that was pad and bushes which required the holes to be opened up and tubes put in there place. I also asked that the motor be raised 20mm to reduce the backsplash coming from the cavitation plate.
First time out vibration slightly reduced but spray became even more excessive.
After my trip I remeasured the position of the cavitation plate as I had taken offsets to give me a datum point through all the whole procedures.
Now that datum provided some very interesting results. As I had already known the motor was set to low in the water.
So after the vibra pack was installed and the motor raised one bolt hole position basically another 20mm the true result was the motor was actually lowered 5mm.
Hence the continued vibration and the extra water from the cavitation plate.
How could this happen you may ask, well its really quite simple.In setting the tubes to replace the bolt hole points for the vibra bushes the accuracy of this was partially out, this in conjunction with when the motor was re-installed and not held true to the transom while securing the bolts it sagged in the bushes they are rubber of course and over their length this can be quite an amount.
So i raised the motor 40 mm (2 more bolt holes) held the motor true to the bolt hole centres of the transom and secured it correctly.
I returned to the dealer explained the situation, no point arguing with me here, and they completed a service and I went to the water for a test.
Finally I had the motor i had thought I had bought with a boat doing all the right things. Vibration now minimal. no backwash virtually from the cavitation plate. All is good in life and I have a very powerful boat that shot holes to twenty knots in what seems like 50'. Really impressive.
To keep you informed here the vibration was caused by two main areas. No proper vibration pad and bush installation in the first place and to exacerbate the vibration a pounding from the water from an improperly set cavitation plate position backwash against the transom.
I believe now that I'm within 5 -10mm of the sweet spot on the motor height but this could put me in the realms of the edge of cavitation . I will test it more in a variety of sea states and loads before any more adjustments are made.

As for the question about leg length one thing to take in mind is that all outboards suffer from too much moisture coming thru the air intake, As motors have developed there have been more complex air intake ducting in conjunction with heating areas do capture moisture and drain this mist off prior to the final air to petrol mix. The water getting into this air intake area is vey fine atomised water particles and can be very difficult to see. Causes of this mist come from appendages in the water i.e. speedo, transom mounted sounders and the like, remove anything you don't need. Ever wondered why your older motor always seems to have corrosion under the hood even though you always spray crc or clean regularly the motor and you suffer electrical issues well know you know. One of the combinations of preventions is to raise the height of the motor and therefore the intake point, hence the longer leg.

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Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Jet_ski_fisher
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2013 at 12:29am
Glad you have it sorted fish hard :)

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http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">
MH... Catch measure release...<*))))<


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2023 at 7:52am
Hi Matteo
I have PMed you but throwing this out to a wider audience.......anyone else come across this problem? Just popped a Suzuki 100hp on a Surtees 5.5 Workmate and resonance + vibration has me very very disappointed with the end result.
Cheers
Bricker


Posted By: lawabidingpoacher
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2023 at 11:28am
I had same thing with a 5.5 workmate. I put pads on , done the prop pitch etc and still there . It was actually just a resonance in the enclosed cabin and when you move out into cockpit a bit more it's gone. I got used to it fairly quick.


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2023 at 12:37pm
Hi,
Hopefully our ph conversation was productive for you.
I think the path your about to take will be more than suitable for your needs.
Let us all know how you get on.

M


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Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Bounty Hunter
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2023 at 8:56pm
also interested in hearing about your attempted remedies and their results

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No disintegrations!



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