Gonna make the most of the crap weather, and give my wheel bearings a freshen up. 

Rocol Sapphire Aqua 2 grease.

more importantly, what wheel bearing kits to get... don't use the cheap ones or it wont matter what grease you put in them, they will still **** out at the worst possible moment.

 Hell yeah
 made in japan or made in Korea, Aussie and if USA double check its the bearing not the packaging in the US


cost a bit more
 $10/ 15 per wheel

always try to let bearings cool down before dunking in the tide to minimize water ingress
 Check bearing buddies are pumped up before leaving home and not enough to blow the rear double seals.. then thats not an issue

wopass wrote: more importantly, what wheel bearing kits to get...  don't use the cheap ones or it wont matter what grease you put in them, they will still **** out at the worst possible moment.  i always get SKF or FAG bearing kits from Partmaster, cost a bit more but last 4 times longer and can rely on them and then pack with any one of the good brand marine grease,  always try to let bearings cool down before dunking in the tide to minimize water ingress

I have normally had wheel bearings done by dealers. but went through a couple of years of going through a bearing every 6 months.
 A while back a large trade supplier brought in stock , cheap,  known name...I also got a set on the Camaro....previous set near on 100,000 MILES, very faint rumble.. failed set less than 5000K miles.
Not only where these replaced by the supplier , but the workshop and  many others they where sourced thru made a lot of claims on other sets... and CV joints at the time...

Tracked it back to the bearing buddies being old, worn, and leaking water.
There is nothing in BB to really wear, no consistently moving parts ... other than the seal caps ....which if do loose one, some aerosol caps fit nice..make sure melt over the air hole in the cap and fit caps with a smear of grease

because even with leaking bearing buddies, there should have been no void for the water to get into when the BBs were properly filled.
 The big issue is when they are pumped up, being over pumped and blow out the rear seal... rather than take up the pressure on the BB spring.

except for some noise in one bearing. Which had already been in there for a year  Any noise/ rumble.. that is immediate fail and replacement.
 Very often an early fail is due to over tighten of the castle nut when setting the bearing.. simply getting the torque right, then find need to knick up a little more to fit the split pin will be the cause.
 Very slight play is ok IF thats is where the split pin sets

K but I hadn't set enough preload, so had a wobbly wheel.
Preload, after bearings have been set is finger tight.
And to have a wheel noticeably wobbly would be serious worry .. even with re set then further travel

There is a thread, about 1 yr 18 months ago on how to do your bearings and seals (always replace bearings and seals as a set.)
 From how to check rumble/ play, thru remove old shells, putting in new without a press. Forcing grease into bearing with hell of the hand.. installing, setting and torquing up.
 And how BBS work and the rear seal over pumping issue.


Getting myself ready to do it properly this time!
 Often pays if undertaking something new, or not 100% sure, make use of the SEARCH FUNCTION above.
 These forms have been around quite a while and are a excellent mine of very good info/ how tos etc (and myth busters )

lots of talk about bearings,yes have had issues previously, now new boat/trailer.(home duties today)While still early hrs thought better check,no rumble movement so gave a shot of grease. Then looked at wheel nuts/studs.Wonder when last undone?? Yep wheel brace didnt do it,so out with socket and bar 600mm finally came undone.What to coat in??Have put copper grease on and then jacked up to find rim stuck to hub,so big whack and finally came off,have put copper grease on both surfaces. 

Outboard support Brackets.

Answer to first question Morley's RED-I (it's blue) and buddies.