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Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126737
Printed Date: 06 Jun 2026 at 5:51am


Topic: Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease
Posted By: Bigfishbob
Subject: Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2018 at 9:46pm
Gonna make the most of the crap weather, and give my wheel bearings a freshen up. 

What Grease is everybody using for submersible wheel bearings?


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www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz



Replies:
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2018 at 9:49am
Evinrude triple guard BEARING grease.. the red one not the general use blue.


Posted By: Motorhead
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2018 at 9:54am
Rocol Sapphire Aqua 2 grease.


Posted By: wopass
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2018 at 12:40pm
more importantly, what wheel bearing kits to get... 

don't use the cheap ones or it wont matter what grease you put in them, they will still **** out at the worst possible moment. 

i always get SKF or FAG bearing kits from Partmaster, cost a bit more but last 4 times longer and can rely on them

and then pack with any one of the good brand marine grease, 

always try to let bearings cool down before dunking in the tide to minimize water ingress


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2018 at 6:50pm
more importantly, what wheel bearing kits to get... don't use the cheap ones or it wont matter what grease you put in them, they will still **** out at the worst possible moment.

 Hell yeah
 made in japan or made in Korea, Aussie and if USA double check its the bearing not the packaging in the US


cost a bit more
 $10/ 15 per wheel

always try to let bearings cool down before dunking in the tide to minimize water ingress
 Check bearing buddies are pumped up before leaving home and not enough to blow the rear double seals.. then thats not an issue


Posted By: Fissure
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2018 at 7:26pm
Originally posted by Motorhead Motorhead wrote:

Rocol Sapphire Aqua 2 grease.
 
I use Rocol Sapphire, but not the aqua version. coupled with bearing protectors/buddies from Burnsco and no probs touch wood in the last 4.5 years.


Posted By: Motorhead
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2018 at 8:26pm
Originally posted by wopass wopass wrote:

more importantly, what wheel bearing kits to get... 

don't use the cheap ones or it wont matter what grease you put in them, they will still **** out at the worst possible moment. 

i always get SKF or FAG bearing kits from Partmaster, cost a bit more but last 4 times longer and can rely on them

and then pack with any one of the good brand marine grease, 

always try to let bearings cool down before dunking in the tide to minimize water ingress

Agree but unfortunately there have been many cases of counterfeit SKF bearings, even supplied from reputable suppliers. I'm certain FAG would have had the same problems from counterfeit copies hitting the market as well. 

 Reading past posts from Bigfishbob gives the impression that he would use quality components and fit them correctly so longevity could be attributed to grease quality, future maintenance procedures.


Posted By: Bigfishbob
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2018 at 9:41pm
Originally posted by Motorhead Motorhead wrote:

Originally posted by wopass wopass wrote:

more importantly, what wheel bearing kits to get... 

don't use the cheap ones or it wont matter what grease you put in them, they will still **** out at the worst possible moment. 

i always get SKF or FAG bearing kits from Partmaster, cost a bit more but last 4 times longer and can rely on them

and then pack with any one of the good brand marine grease, 

always try to let bearings cool down before dunking in the tide to minimize water ingress

Agree but unfortunately there have been many cases of counterfeit SKF bearings, even supplied from reputable suppliers. I'm certain FAG would have had the same problems from counterfeit copies hitting the market as well. 

 Reading past posts from Bigfishbob gives the impression that he would use quality components and fit them correctly so longevity could be attributed to grease quality, future maintenance procedures.

Lol! thanks for the vote of confidence mate, but have to admit to being a bit out of my depth on this one. I have normally had wheel bearings done by dealers. but went through a couple of years of going through a bearing every 6 months. Tracked it back to the bearing buddies being old, worn, and leaking water. Although I;m now suspecting that said dealer wasn't actually packing the bearings with grease prior to assembly, because even with leaking bearing buddies, there should have been no void for the water to get into when the BBs were properly filled.

So as an experiment took the bearing buddies off and replaced with dust caps. Much better wear after 12months no issue, except for some noise in one bearing. Which had already been in there for a year before I took the BBS off.

Changed that out the day after boxing day, with a Trojan bearing set, admittedly, wasn't expecting the world's greatest quality. OK but I hadn't set enough preload, so had a wobbly wheel, which got tightened at Taupo after losing two bearing caps on the way down.

Getting myself ready to do it properly this time! 




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www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2018 at 10:24am
I have normally had wheel bearings done by dealers. but went through a couple of years of going through a bearing every 6 months.
 
A while back a large trade supplier brought in stock , cheap,  known name...I also got a set on the Camaro....previous set near on 100,000 MILES, very faint rumble.. failed set less than 5000K miles.
Not only where these replaced by the supplier , but the workshop and  many others they where sourced thru made a lot of claims on other sets... and CV joints at the time...

Tracked it back to the bearing buddies being old, worn, and leaking water.
There is nothing in BB to really wear, no consistently moving parts ... other than the seal caps ....which if do loose one, some aerosol caps fit nice..make sure melt over the air hole in the cap and fit caps with a smear of grease

because even with leaking bearing buddies, there should have been no void for the water to get into when the BBs were properly filled.
 
The big issue is when they are pumped up, being over pumped and blow out the rear seal... rather than take up the pressure on the BB spring.

except for some noise in one bearing. Which had already been in there for a year  Any noise/ rumble.. that is immediate fail and replacement.
 Very often an early fail is due to over tighten of the castle nut when setting the bearing.. simply getting the torque right, then find need to knick up a little more to fit the split pin will be the cause.
 Very slight play is ok IF thats is where the split pin sets

K but I hadn't set enough preload, so had a wobbly wheel.
Preload, after bearings have been set is finger tight.
And to have a wheel noticeably wobbly would be serious worry .. even with re set then further travel

There is a thread, about 1 yr 18 months ago on how to do your bearings and seals (always replace bearings and seals as a set.)
 From how to check rumble/ play, thru remove old shells, putting in new without a press. Forcing grease into bearing with hell of the hand.. installing, setting and torquing up.
 And how BBS work and the rear seal over pumping issue.


Getting myself ready to do it properly this time!
 Often pays if undertaking something new, or not 100% sure, make use of the SEARCH FUNCTION above.
 These forms have been around quite a while and are a excellent mine of very good info/ how tos etc (and myth busters )


Posted By: 3rnzir
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2018 at 2:16pm
USA Made Timken.
SuperCheap Auto has them in metric specs.


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Peace.Via superior firepower..


Posted By: Pcj
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2022 at 8:20am
lots of talk about bearings,yes have had issues previously, now new boat/trailer.(home duties today)While still early hrs thought better check,no rumble movement so gave a shot of grease. Then looked at wheel nuts/studs.Wonder when last undone?? Yep wheel brace didnt do it,so out with socket and bar 600mm finally came undone.What to coat in??Have put copper grease on and then jacked up to find rim stuck to hub,so big whack and finally came off,have put copper grease on both surfaces. 

Could be embarrassing on side road not being able change a wheel.

Back to what she must be obeyed has instore for me.


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"Times up"


Posted By: Bounty Hunter
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2022 at 9:00am
yep copper grease as you did or res-q-steel 

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No disintegrations!


Posted By: Pcj
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2023 at 11:50am
Outboard support Brackets.

Many trailers today do not have a rear bar by transom. So how does one fit a support for outboard?? I see many a boat/trailer relying solely on hydraulics. Guilty too.

So today I brought one thats adjustable and has spring in it to help ease compression.

Now fitted to motor and to wheel buddy,anyone see an issue??






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"Times up"


Posted By: Pcj
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 2:42pm
Sitting and looking at trailer and thought hmm should grease.1st job check wheel nuts.loosen/tighten and out some copper grease on thread.No point having seized nuts and a flat tyre.Surprising was some were loose. Jack up wheel and listen for rumble all good and 2 pumps and grease started to come out of small hole breather? on buddy.

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"Times up"


Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 25 May 2024 at 8:33pm
Answer to first question Morley's RED-I (it's blue) and buddies.
Never been concerned about the motor leg coming down in transit. Motors usually have a lock lever in full up tilt but I've never used it especially as I like to tilt only to about what I think is even weight forward and aft. 



Posted By: Pcj
Date Posted: 26 May 2024 at 3:52am
Originally posted by krow krow wrote:

Answer to first question Morley's RED-I (it's blue) and buddies.
Never been concerned about the motor leg coming down in transit. Motors usually have a lock lever in full up tilt but I've never used it especially as I like to tilt only to about what I think is even weight forward and aft. 

mercury/mariner lock put my motor at a terrible angle,never know when a ram seal will let go,prevention better than cure.

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"Times up"



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