Have used international Perfection (2 pot) in the past on a few boats and the results were outstanding. Very high gloss levels, extremely hard wearing. Its not cheap but the stuff is amazing if you do it right. Not ment to be sprayed on- rolled or brushed... then tipped.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Been a bit slow responding, my p.c is acting up a bit, sure hope it doesn't crouch during this period!

Schampy, I had wondered if I would get better results with dedicated boat product. I looked at that perfection a while back but I would have to use a spraying style because I am going to be painting a bunch of nooks and crannies as well as my boat being 8.5m on the hull length. This makes spraying seem more efficient. If I was just doing the hull I could roll and tip it.

Steps, I could have used that advice a few years ago when I polished it but now the hull is showing some matting/glass if you look in places and the cabin is painted black for accent and it's gone to the point it will have to be sanded off to the glass.
So it's definitely a re paint so removal of all beltings, rails, etc only leaving the windows in place will be called for.
I am pleased Schampy got a strong gloss with the product he used. I do have someone to spray it but I will be doing all prep....fun.

Photos are not uploading very well. But i have just done mine during lockdown.

Lol have painted it twice this week as didnt like the first colour

My suggestion would be to find a decent spritz spray filler. Feather fill is pretty good.
Take back. Prime, sand, spritz fill, sand, prime, sand and paint.

No cutting cost/corners on products and prep or it will not last.

Steipped all gelcoat off to bare fubreglas then 2 pack primed and sanded back. Put on a gunmetal finish to see if i liked the colour and find all pinholes.

Found 10 million pinholes so gave a skim coat of filler, sanded that back and then used a wet on wet primer and put the red on.

3 coats of red and 2 coats of 2 pack clear.

Still not sure i like the colour and might re-do it blue when I can get back into work to get supplies.

Next 3 weeks I might get the top rwady to do the white.

Also have a car in the garage almost compltely stripped down, getting it rqady to take in to work and re-paint.

LOL got another 6 house doors to paint, so plenty to keep busy for 3 weeks

The last major repaint on top sides of a glass yacht was a few yrs ago,2005? good coat/wash of with a wax removal,sanded gel coat till dull,under coated with altex product,then a friend/boat painter squirted it with altex acrlic,it was 2 pot stuff,sprayed with airless and left for 3 days and then a good cut and polish ,saw the yacht about 3 weeks ago off te atatu still same paint on and still looking sharp.15 yrs on surprised me considering being a moored vessel.

"Steps" we did the cut n polish as there were a few minor imperfections,using a airless gun.Being where we were ,spraying was a bit of no no,unless we erected a tent.being outside ,Most boat yards are the same today,nothing major.But it has held up nicely.The painter is no slug thats for sure.Seen what he done in a shed with gloss.Perfection

Steps wrote: Was not directed at you.. I have painted 2 boats up on the dry yrs ago.. pre 2 pot... Airless and open air at the best of times is very difficult if do not choose the day very carefully.  Even so it will be a little orange peel or dust/ pollen not gloss that maybe require blocking out if fussy . Most ppl would not know the difference, even on a brand new car.

Thanks Steps,a lot of yards are spray free due osh regs,particularly sanding antifoul.Glad not to have moored vessel nowdays.

The pinholes are because i had to go right back to fibreglass, all gelcoat taken right off.

If the gelcoat is ok, you dont need to sand right off.

If i was the painter, i would either say leave the prep to me or just get you helping under supervision.

If not prepped the right way for your boats condition, you can either prep it too much or not enough.

Every time something is painted there are different ways to approach the job depending on the condition of initial surface

The pinholes are because i had to go right back to fibreglass, all gelcoat taken right off.

 Yep  They laid the SN up with some of the 1st chopper guns (Robinsons from memory) so not always resin rich on the back of the gelcoat..


Are the pin holes left over from manufacture?
 Yes.. They should NOT be there We used to give a spray with resin, without the glass chopper  / rovings  running
(This is long 'rope' of glass fiber goes thru knife blades on the top of the resin gun that pre mixes the resin, The knives then throw the bits of glass into the glass and it all lands on the gel coat in the mould)
 Then turn of the rovings.. then roll out til no air and full wetted out.. usually 2 or 3 guys going hard out behind the chopper once get into a large mould.
Often in cnrs and edges you will find large air pockets.
 We used to lay spray resin, then lay  un cut rovinings into into these cnrs, then lay up.
 This prevented the guys rolling out missing getting into the cnrs .. usually because they where working with too much pressure , under manned for the job.

 If you have your boat out in the sun on a hot day , you can see looking down surfaces  the air bubbles under the gelcoat as the air expands.. not so much in cnrs  thu bad ones will show. 

I have a few fine cracks/striations here and there I can see.

 These grind out till get to solid glass in a shallow V. then repair  as if mig welding 5mm steel plates. This increases the strength in that area.. like a weld will if done right.
 If just fill, the cracks will re appear in the future.
  Scratchjes can use a polyester  or epoxy based srap filler as Brad suggests above...
 The epoxy is far more expensive, stronger but personally I dont believe is is worth the expense over polyester.

 Also you can put epoxy over polyester or repair (that is the also the type of resin in most boats) But you can not put polyester over epoxy  as a paint or as a repair. It will eventually de laminate.
 My view is stick with what the base is.. both are more than strong enough to do the job
 AND its like restoring a old British car with Whitworth threads, then find UNC and metric on different parts, and frustration and mistakes start to happen.
Putting aside, before someone mentions it .. some UNC threads are so close to whitworth you would never notice unless using whitworth spanners which are sized very different to metric and UN

Dont understand the question..