Alright, question time.

The PE system is quite old now, and originally related to diameter, right? And the old rule of thumb was PE # x 10 would roughly equal breaking strain?

But with the incremental improvements over time could you now fish 'modern' (like Shimano Ocea X8) PE6 which has a far higher breaking strain than an older PE8. The bonus is that you can spool up more for the same sized reel. Excluding abrasion resistance what am I missing here?

If the line is round, what is the difference between diameter and thickness?

it doesn't really matter in the context of my question?

SufixRockMan wrote: Alright, question time. The PE system is quite old now, and originally related to diameter, right? And the old rule of thumb was PE # x 10 would roughly equal breaking strain? But with the incremental improvements over time could you now fish 'modern' (like Shimano Ocea X8) PE6 which has a far higher breaking strain than an older PE8. The bonus is that you can spool up more for the same sized reel. Excluding abrasion resistance what am I missing here?

Per my thread a little while back, the new Shimano Ocea 8 (note, this is newer than the EX8 stuff) is ridiculously thin for the breaking strain. PE2 is 45lb, PE3 63lb, PE4 76lb, PE8 151lb (!!!!)

That's why I buy Tasline off you, Kaveman, when I need to re-spool. I know what I'm getting as they are very transparent about the lines' specs, and I find it superb to cast with etc as well.

PE is the diameter measurement used for silk thread manufacture.
PE stated by many manufacturers is incorrectly used and unfortunately misleading (whether intentional or not) particularly when trying to actually get a matched rod, reel line weights.

I have personally line tested many braids, the results have been, eye opening.

here is a link to the archived paulus braid testing site...

I cant find the old thread on the subject..
It was good.
Guys talking about breaking off...
I run 30lb coloured Diawa J8 on all my reels.. General fishing for a feed ...
It has handled some big fish fine.
 We also drift SB and straylines over reefs, bouncing sinkers on the reef, so do loose some gear now and again.

To break off on the mainline (braid) becomes expensive to re spool, or the alternative is join the braid ..

I used to run 20lb Floro traces, nail knot type on the hooks (around 92% ) and surgeons loop on the top (cant rem the% think about 80%)
And a bimmini twist (over 95% cats pawed to the swivel/ clip) rated 20lb but they take way way more than that.

If hooked on the reef, drifting it was the trace that gave way, usually around the hook or just above where rubs on a rock or bannicale. If not there the surgeons loop.

Now I use 30lb fluro still get break offs and still in the same places as the 20lb, just not quite as easy.

I dont understand the concern of break offs with the braid strength and loading rods if the trace is used as the weak point????


 I have broken a rod on a big shark thu...in 2 places  around the 1st eye... got it to the boat, about to cut the hook off and he went crazy, rolled up the line, and the tall rod end, a big sweep of the tail hit the rod snaped a 4/5" section out.
 Did cut off a couple meters of braid .

who uses their trace a weak point...? dont understand why you would run 30lb braid (probably breaks at near 50lb) and then run 20lb leader

 I explained that above.. Its cheap to break off a trace, expensive to break off say 50 meters plus of braid.
 And to add to thats, thats more crap left in the ocean to tangle fish life up.. and on a spin reel leaves the level when casting too low .

Anyway that what Im asking?

I dont understand the concern of break offs with the braid strength and loading rods if the trace is used as the weak point????