Removing Rust From Trailer

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    Posted: 04 Aug 2008 at 5:25pm
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As the weather has been crap for the best part of a month and not being able to get out on the water, i thought id to a bit of long overdue work to the trailer before summer rolls around.

I have a few areas of surface rust to the trailer and in some parts its about 1mm thick which i need to remove.
What is the best product out there to remove the rust and also prevent the rust from coming back too fast?

I was thinking along the lines of removing the surface rust with a wire brush and then applying some sort of rust remover - Is this the best thing to do? and then possibly priming/spraying with an enamel?

Any ideas/solutions??
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote rocko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2008 at 6:48pm
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depending on how much there is you may want to look at sand blasting and go from there?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ssilver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2008 at 10:20pm
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Originally posted by rocko rocko wrote:

depending on how much there is you may want to look at sand blasting and go from there?
 
there isnt much - just in patches here and there... doesnt really warrant doing a sandblast as most of the steel is in good nick..
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Blue Legend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 7:44am
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WURTH do an excellent product which is a rust Killer/Preventitive, then it needs to be painted as it is not UV proof. Cost about $80 for 1/2 a litre but Wurth only sell the best.  Call them on (09)2623040
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote cosmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 8:11am
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as blue legend has said the wurth rust converter is the best not cheap best if you have a local panelbeater that you can borrow some off because its one of those products that you will never use all of it or the other one is the black paint that you can get goes as hard as nails and will actually seal the rust off and supposedly kill it avaliable thru most hardware shops,
becareful with some of the rust converters out there as most you do need to wash off with water.
 
i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ssilver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:25am
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Thanks guys, ill contact WURTH and see what they advise. Sounds like just what i need.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote phantomdeviant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 5:22pm
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Good topic this. Anyone have any info about POR15? I was lead to believe that this also is a very good poduct to

Skirt Pulla
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote cosmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 9:49pm
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por 15 thats the name i was thinking of yes just the same as a product that wurth puts out its black and very good thats the one that actually seals the rust and actually contains a inhibitor in it HOWEVER as blue legend pointed out it does need to be painted over as its not uv resistant but a lot cheaper than buying from wurth.....its not steel in a can either so if the rust is too bad then nothing will fix it
i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Wefaknis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:13pm
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strip the rust off, and get it back to bare metal and wash it down with rust killer and then paint it with zinc paint or that stuff the guys mention, but the idea is to seal it up, and then get some motorcycle chain wax and spray it on, it's thick and sticky and will attract dust to help seal it up as well, then get some of that stuff billy ho talks about....lanogard (or sumething), and spray the whole trailer, stop the salt water and oxygen getting to will help big time....

Ive been using cheap cooking spary oil as a protectant on the trailer body and chainwax on the springs and bolts etc....seems to work..

Cheers Wefaknis
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ssilver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:35pm
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Ive just been reading through the POR15 website.. The products seem to be alot cheaper than the WURTH products.

There are alot of POR15 products listed on the website and they sound really good!
Anyone out there used and recommend POR15?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:58pm
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You don't say whether this is a painted or galvanised trailer.  I'll assume it's galvanised. This is important because if it's rusting through then the galvanising is probably about to start breaking through all over the place.  Think seriously about getting it regalvanised or start saving for a replacement.  If you regalv it early enough it restores the trailer to good as new.  A re galv is nearly always cheaper than a new trailer, unless you are talking to the people who manufacture trailers.  (I wonder why that is?) I just had mine regalved after 12 years.  I stripped it to pieces myself and reassembled it myself.  To have it regalved cost under $1000.  That was a tandem braked trailer for a 19ft boat.

There are two strategies for treating rust.
Remove it, or convert it.
To remove it start with a wire brush attachment or a sanding disk on your angle grinder and clean the surface back to bare shiny metal.  If there's some you can't remove without going too deep then use a rust remover.  Generally these contain phosphoric acid.  Brush or spray on leave for a while rinse off and repeat.  once it's clean dry and all traces of rust are gone you can paint it.  "Cold Galv" is my choice.  Look for a Blackwoods/Paykels or any engineering supply store near you.
To convert the rust start by wire brushing or sanding all the loose rust off and then you paint on the converter.  This is a chemical reaction that converts the red iron oxide to a black iron oxide.  The red iron oxide (rust) is acidic when its wet, which is why rust keeps coming back unless you treat it properly.  The black oxide is not acidic and does not promote further rusting.  Read the instructions on the rust converter you use to find out if you need to rinse it off or if you paint over it.
 
"Sumfin Fishy"
Lotus 1900 (19 ft) with 135HP Mercury O/B
"My greatest fear is that, when I die, my wife will sell all my toys for what I said I paid for them".
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Wide Load Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 11:26pm
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I painted the hubs on one of my trailers with POR 15 once, they also sell a top coat. Hard as hell and lasted well while I had the trailer. Bloody hard to get off your hands - wear gloves! 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ssilver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2008 at 8:46am
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Sorry yes its a galvanised trailer. The rust isnt too bad at the moment as its only small patches. Im not really too keen to re-galvanise as it doesnt really warrant it yet - i just need a cheap long term fix for the rust i do have.
Thanks for your help guys! Ill let you know how i get on if the weather holds out long enough this weekend..
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote cosmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2008 at 6:27pm
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problem would be that what you can see is probably 1/3 or even 1/4 of the ACTUAL PROBLEM as mike p says would probably get a better opinion on the actual extent of the problem before going to far
i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tga fisher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2008 at 8:31pm
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I have been very happy with a recent tidyup I did on my trailer. Used electric drill and grinder with appropriate rust stripping discs. Used wire brush type attachments as well as a specific rust removing disc but can't think what they're called. The wire brush method was good in tight corners but the other discs were much better on larger flat surfaces. Much quicker with the grinder. I removed down to bare shinny metal and then used 2 coats of Wattyle's 'Cold Galvit'. It's thick stuff but produced an excellent result. Still looks good over a year later. The first bit i tried I did the same prep and used Wattle's Metal Primer and then 2 coats of Epoxy Enamel. This was very dissapointing and i do not recomment it (may be OK on your galvanised fence rails but not on a boat trailer). I spent ages on my over several weekends taking it all apart but I think it's a good system for doing spots as they appear. Good idea to do it sooner than later or it will grow into a big problem.
Sorry - out of office - GONE FISHING
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Joker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2008 at 9:14pm
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Blackguard that I got from Mitre 10 ($20 / 500ml) does a good job of converting the rust and sealing it with a plastic like coat. I have a bit that I cut off my last trailer (18 months ago) that was treated and left lying in the bark garden and its still working.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Got-ya Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2008 at 10:05am
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Remember the old saying “rust never sleeps” if there is rust showing on a galvanized trailer then it really is that bad.  Remember that the coating is a sacrificial anode just like the anodes on your outboard/hull etc, so for the trailer to have started to rust the galv coating is pretty much shot. You don’t say if it is a box section or open section construction? Makes a difference as with box you can’t do anything about the inside with the type of repair you seem keen on.   If you plan to keep the trailer for any length of time get it sand blasted and regalvanised, will work out a lot cheaper in the long run and save a lot of frustrating weekends chasing your tail on what in the end will be a lost cause and a new trailer required.

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote jackel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2008 at 1:02pm
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Hi Silver1, I have used a product that panelbeater use called Jenolite. It comes in a small white bottle and it is a converter I think. Great for killing the rust if it is lite to moderate. If heavy rust you can't beat the gas axe or cut off wheel. I basically rebuilt my trailer and found on closer inspection the rust had severly thinned out the metal on areas that first looked ok. If it is going to be Hot Dipped the plants will acid dip it anyway before hand but if your rust is bad best to fix first.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote jackel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2008 at 1:05pm
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One more thing. I don't recomend any type of rubberised sealer/silicone once finished as it is a f----- to get off should you need to weld again in the future.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kennyboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2010 at 10:37am
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 On my trailer I have applied rustcon  to the places where there is rust including bolts etc. as specified it has gone black. Can I paint, spray something on it now just to make it look a bit better. It seems for coldgalv it needs to be taken down to the bare metal or is it ok just to go over the area as is as a short term good look fix?
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