Removing Rust From Trailer
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Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31436
Printed Date: 10 Jun 2026 at 3:39pm
Topic: Removing Rust From Trailer
Posted By: ssilver
Subject: Removing Rust From Trailer
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2008 at 5:25pm
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As the weather has been crap for the best part of a month and not being able to get out on the water, i thought id to a bit of long overdue work to the trailer before summer rolls around.
I have a few areas of surface rust to the trailer and in some parts its about 1mm thick which i need to remove. What is the best product out there to remove the rust and also prevent the rust from coming back too fast? I was thinking along the lines of removing the surface rust with a wire brush and then applying some sort of rust remover - Is this the best thing to do? and then possibly priming/spraying with an enamel? Any ideas/solutions?? |
Replies:
Posted By: rocko
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2008 at 6:48pm
| depending on how much there is you may want to look at sand blasting and go from there? |
Posted By: ssilver
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2008 at 10:20pm
there isnt much - just in patches here and there... doesnt really warrant doing a sandblast as most of the steel is in good nick..
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rocko wrote:Posted By: Blue Legend
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 7:44am
| WURTH do an excellent product which is a rust Killer/Preventitive, then it needs to be painted as it is not UV proof. Cost about $80 for 1/2 a litre but Wurth only sell the best. Call them on (09)2623040 |
Posted By: cosmo
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 8:11am
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as blue legend has said the wurth rust converter is the best not cheap best if you have a local panelbeater that you can borrow some off because its one of those products that you will never use all of it or the other one is the black paint that you can get goes as hard as nails and will actually seal the rust off and supposedly kill it avaliable thru most hardware shops,
becareful with some of the rust converters out there as most you do need to wash off with water.
------------- i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems |
Posted By: ssilver
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:25am
Thanks guys, ill contact WURTH and see what they advise. Sounds like just what i need. 
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Posted By: phantomdeviant
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 5:22pm
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Good topic this. Anyone have any info about POR15? I was lead to believe that this also is a very good poduct to ------------- Skirt Pulla |
Posted By: cosmo
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 9:49pm
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por 15 thats the name i was thinking of yes just the same as a product that wurth puts out its black and very good thats the one that actually seals the rust and actually contains a inhibitor in it HOWEVER as blue legend pointed out it does need to be painted over as its not uv resistant but a lot cheaper than buying from wurth.....its not steel in a can either so if the rust is too bad then nothing will fix it ------------- i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems |
Posted By: Wefaknis
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:13pm
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strip the rust off, and get it back to bare metal and wash it down with rust killer and then paint it with zinc paint or that stuff the guys mention, but the idea is to seal it up, and then get some motorcycle chain wax and spray it on, it's thick and sticky and will attract dust to help seal it up as well, then get some of that stuff billy ho talks about....lanogard (or sumething), and spray the whole trailer, stop the salt water and oxygen getting to will help big time.... Ive been using cheap cooking spary oil as a protectant on the trailer body and chainwax on the springs and bolts etc....seems to work.. Cheers Wefaknis
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Posted By: ssilver
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:35pm
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Ive just been reading through the POR15 website.. The products seem to be alot cheaper than the WURTH products. There are alot of POR15 products listed on the website and they sound really good!
Anyone out there used and recommend POR15?
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Posted By: MikeP
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 10:58pm
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You don't say whether this is a painted or galvanised trailer. I'll assume it's galvanised. This is important because if it's rusting through then the galvanising is probably about to start breaking through all over the place. Think seriously about getting it regalvanised or start saving for a replacement. If you regalv it early enough it restores the trailer to good as new. A re galv is nearly always cheaper than a new trailer, unless you are talking to the people who manufacture trailers. (I wonder why that is?) I just had mine regalved after 12 years. I stripped it to pieces myself and reassembled it myself. To have it regalved cost under $1000. That was a tandem braked trailer for a 19ft boat. There are two strategies for treating rust.
Remove it, or convert it.
To remove it start with a wire brush attachment or a sanding disk on your angle grinder and clean the surface back to bare shiny metal. If there's some you can't remove without going too deep then use a rust remover. Generally these contain phosphoric acid. Brush or spray on leave for a while rinse off and repeat. once it's clean dry and all traces of rust are gone you can paint it. "Cold Galv" is my choice. Look for a Blackwoods/Paykels or any engineering supply store near you.
To convert the rust start by wire brushing or sanding all the loose rust off and then you paint on the converter. This is a chemical reaction that converts the red iron oxide to a black iron oxide. The red iron oxide (rust) is acidic when its wet, which is why rust keeps coming back unless you treat it properly. The black oxide is not acidic and does not promote further rusting. Read the instructions on the rust converter you use to find out if you need to rinse it off or if you paint over it.
------------- "Sumfin Fishy" Lotus 1900 (19 ft) with 135HP Mercury O/B "My greatest fear is that, when I die, my wife will sell all my toys for what I said I paid for them". |
Posted By: Wide Load
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2008 at 11:26pm
| I painted the hubs on one of my trailers with POR 15 once, they also sell a top coat. Hard as hell and lasted well while I had the trailer. Bloody hard to get off your hands - wear gloves! |
Posted By: ssilver
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2008 at 8:46am
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Sorry yes its a galvanised trailer. The rust isnt too bad at the moment as its only small patches. Im not really too keen to re-galvanise as it doesnt really warrant it yet - i just need a cheap long term fix for the rust i do have.
Thanks for your help guys! Ill let you know how i get on if the weather holds out long enough this weekend.. |
Posted By: cosmo
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2008 at 6:27pm
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problem would be that what you can see is probably 1/3 or even 1/4 of the ACTUAL PROBLEM as mike p says would probably get a better opinion on the actual extent of the problem before going to far ------------- i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems |
Posted By: tga fisher
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2008 at 8:31pm
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I have been very happy with a recent tidyup I did on my trailer. Used electric drill and grinder with appropriate rust stripping discs. Used wire brush type attachments as well as a specific rust removing disc but can't think what they're called. The wire brush method was good in tight corners but the other discs were much better on larger flat surfaces. Much quicker with the grinder. I removed down to bare shinny metal and then used 2 coats of Wattyle's 'Cold Galvit'. It's thick stuff but produced an excellent result. Still looks good over a year later. The first bit i tried I did the same prep and used Wattle's Metal Primer and then 2 coats of Epoxy Enamel. This was very dissapointing and i do not recomment it (may be OK on your galvanised fence rails but not on a boat trailer). I spent ages on my over several weekends taking it all apart but I think it's a good system for doing spots as they appear. Good idea to do it sooner than later or it will grow into a big problem. ------------- Sorry - out of office - GONE FISHING |
Posted By: Joker
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2008 at 9:14pm
| Blackguard that I got from Mitre 10 ($20 / 500ml) does a good job of converting the rust and sealing it with a plastic like coat. I have a bit that I cut off my last trailer (18 months ago) that was treated and left lying in the bark garden and its still working. |
Posted By: Got-ya
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2008 at 10:05am
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Remember the old saying “rust never sleeps” if there is rust showing on a galvanized trailer then it really is that bad. Remember that the coating is a sacrificial anode just like the anodes on your outboard/hull etc, so for the trailer to have started to rust the galv coating is pretty much shot. You don’t say if it is a box section or open section construction? Makes a difference as with box you can’t do anything about the inside with the type of repair you seem keen on. If you plan to keep the trailer for any length of time get it sand blasted and regalvanised, will work out a lot cheaper in the long run and save a lot of frustrating weekends chasing your tail on what in the end will be a lost cause and a new trailer required.
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Posted By: jackel
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2008 at 1:02pm
| Hi Silver1, I have used a product that panelbeater use called Jenolite. It comes in a small white bottle and it is a converter I think. Great for killing the rust if it is lite to moderate. If heavy rust you can't beat the gas axe or cut off wheel. I basically rebuilt my trailer and found on closer inspection the rust had severly thinned out the metal on areas that first looked ok. If it is going to be Hot Dipped the plants will acid dip it anyway before hand but if your rust is bad best to fix first. |
Posted By: jackel
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2008 at 1:05pm
| One more thing. I don't recomend any type of rubberised sealer/silicone once finished as it is a f----- to get off should you need to weld again in the future. |
Posted By: kennyboy
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2010 at 10:37am
| On my trailer I have applied rustcon to the places where there is rust including bolts etc. as specified it has gone black. Can I paint, spray something on it now just to make it look a bit better. It seems for coldgalv it needs to be taken down to the bare metal or is it ok just to go over the area as is as a short term good look fix? |
Posted By: CEEBEE
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2010 at 11:48am
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Remove loose flake with disc ginder with wire cup brush or suitable abrasive disc then apply 2 coats POR15 magic stuff or simply spray 2 coats 75% Zinc paint in a can and top coat with grey paint as the zinc is very soft. Will cost about $70.00 all up with paint to spare. ------------- I STARTED THE DAY WITH NO FISH AND I STILL HAVE PLENTY LEFT |
Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2010 at 7:39pm
| Rust - arrrgggghhhhh! What I dont understand is - if you get the trailer professionally re-galvanized, how do they remove rust fron inaccessible places inside the frame? Or is that too hard a question. |
Posted By: Brooook
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2010 at 8:02pm
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Hubbys work, Galbraiths in Nelson, sandblast rustproof and spray paint trailers. I'm sure other companies offer a similar service. Not sure of the price though but a cheaper option than galvanising.
For our caravan, Hubby sanded the chassis by hand, applied Wattle Killrust etching primer, then painted over with Resene Hi-Glo metallic paint.
http://www.productspec.net/products/6360/wattyl-nz/killrust-super-etch.aspx - http://www.productspec.net/products/6360/wattyl-nz/killrust-super-etch.aspx
If we had our time over, we would get it done professionally, but he was a self employed painter then so had the time and didn't work for the company he does now so didn't know what was on offer out there.
There are two choices:
1) Elbow grease
2) Money ------------- Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.............Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day drinking beer, |
Posted By: cosmo
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2010 at 10:07pm
they get acid dipped first i think ------------- i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems |
Posted By: Blue Legend
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2010 at 7:09am
| First it gets sandblasted as much as they can, then it gets acid soaked for up to 4 days until all rust is eaten away. |
Posted By: cosmo
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2010 at 8:29am
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same way they apply the galvanising in those places,best way to kill rust and protect the trailer and actually not badly priced think bushpig had a trailer done a couple months ago ------------- i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems |
Posted By: Hydraphobe
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2010 at 1:55pm
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I have just invested over $2,000 getting my trailer sand blasted and galvanised.
Someone suggested painting a chlorinated rubber paint used for swimming pools to give it a ruberised coating to prevent it fromrusting again.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Posted By: DIY!
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2010 at 2:13pm
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I was told that after cleaning and spraying it with LPS 3 http://www.lpslabs.com - www.lpslabs.com it would be protected with this for 2 years does anyone know anything about this? ------------- http://www.actionstations.co.nz Berkley 2009 and 2010 S/B champ |
Posted By: DIY!
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2010 at 2:32pm
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http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corrosion_pg/Procyon.html - http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corrosion_pg/Procyon.html is the correct product - I think I am waiting for a call from the Rep. ------------- http://www.actionstations.co.nz Berkley 2009 and 2010 S/B champ |
Posted By: cosmo
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2010 at 10:05pm
only problem with these sort of coatings is whilst they will protect from the outside they will also trapp any moisture or rust inside therefore hiding it from veiw until its too late ------------- i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems |
Posted By: cosmo
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2010 at 10:09pm
also try and find your local WURTH REP and have a read on their product called cavitity wax also contains a rust inhibitor in it and also will not dry and flake like a lot of products out there not cheap tho ------------- i just want to go fishing..........amd ignore all my adult problems |
Posted By: wrinkle
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2011 at 7:54pm
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Hi Mike I know this post is about 3 years old, whereabouts did you get your trailer regalved for under a grand? I can definitely strip the trailer down but there would still be the solid frame and 3 cross members, did you also get this done at the same time appreciate your help on this Cheers Rhys |
Posted By: Moki Marko
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 8:12am
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good thread to salvage wrinkle - I'd be interested to get a report from the guys who have done rust jobs on their trilers or have had them 'regalved'. Seems to me that a galv trailer has a life of 10-12 years, usually starts to rust after 6 or 7. If you clean it up straight away (when surface rust first appears) , are you going to get more than the 5 years you would have got anyway if you just leave it to quietly rust away in it's own good time? I'm wondering if many of the rust repairs are just short term cosmetic fix's and don't actually extend the life of the trailer at all. Could be wrong though. |
Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 11:44am
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Generally - I would be interested to know if any other material would reduce corrosion a lot - eg aluminium. Steel seems to be bl..dy hopeless.
The magic material doesnt seem to be invented yet - steel rusts, aluminium corrodes too (but not as bad), fibreglass is brittle. How about carbon fibre, that the latest aeroplanes are made of.
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Posted By: Black Max
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 1:33pm
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I’ve just had my 12 year old Hosking trailer re-galvanized. It wasn’t in dire need of repair, but showing increasing amounts rust around the drain holes of the cross-members, the underside of the axles and the back roller rockers. I decided to do something this year before things started getting bad. I looked at new trailer options, but decided for me re-galvanizing was the way to go. Cullen Specialist Equipment did the work for me. They dismantled the trailer then off to be shot blast, acid bath and re-dipped. Once they got it back reassembled the trailer using new bolts and brake lines, cleaned the brakes replaced / repacked wheel bearings as required refitted lights, rollers and winch. I very happy how it turned out and it only took 4 weeks. |
Posted By: Daggy1
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 7:03pm
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Max Can i ask how much it cost you. I have a similar situation with my trailer, tossing up between a new one or a regalv. It is for a 4.8m bucanner. T |
Posted By: Moki Marko
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 7:28pm
| I'm sure regalved trailers look very nice - buuut I'd really like to know, are you going to get another 10 years out of it? |
Posted By: Yoti
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 8:25pm
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My trailer is just comming up 30 yrs old had it regalved about 9 yrs ago no sign of new rust on it yet, they test drilled the box section at the time to check the thickness of the steel and for internal rust before the job was done. The winch pillar had been replaced earlier as it was too thin walled |
Posted By: of2fsh
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 8:56pm
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Just re galled my 6mtr trailer,massive job....replaced every nut and bolt,got a wicked deal on the re galv but still cost $1000,replaced the tires,tow ball hitch,bearings and rubber buffer on pedistool and all u bolts...if you hunt around u can save lots ,especially on stainless nuts etc....worst part of regalv was re tapping all the threads ------------- 2009 and 2010 BERKLEY SOFTBAIT COMP CHAMPS,Runner up 2013 ( solo),winner 2013/14 longest kingfish nz fishing competition |
Posted By: Got-ya
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 9:00pm
Yes, as long as it is well sand basted and regalved before the corosion is to bad then a ten year life extension is to be expected. Trouble is most people put the job off until its not worth fixing ( Will do it next winter  )------------- THERE ARE TWO KINDS OF FISHERMAN, THOSE WHO FISH FOR SPORT AND THOSE THAT CATCH SOMETHING. |
Posted By: Moki Marko
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 9:03pm
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damn - thought you mite say that. |
Posted By: Black Max
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2011 at 8:58am
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Total cost was $3,700 - the trailer was a Tandem Hosking for a 605 Buccaneer. If you're considering a re-galv my suggestion would be to do it sooner rather than later for maximum effect. Will try a post a photo when I work out how to do it! |
Posted By: Quo vardis
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2011 at 7:21pm
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Had an interesting discussion with a Metallurgist
today about boat trailer corrosion and different materials. His key points, make sure that your trailer is well earthed to the tow vehicle, and avoid using dissimilar metals, even SS bolts can cause accelerated corrosion of the area around the bolts. ------------- If the conditions are marginal, you need a bigger boat |
Posted By: Got-ya
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2011 at 8:44pm
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Rare breed those metallurgists For the short time frame that a trailer is in the water your electrical system is the least of your problems. In box trailers bad drainage is the biggest killer imo. If water can get in then it all needs to be able to drain out or no amount of fresh water will save it. Why is the bottom of a V in a cross member the first to rust? because thats where the salt water stayed longest. ------------- THERE ARE TWO KINDS OF FISHERMAN, THOSE WHO FISH FOR SPORT AND THOSE THAT CATCH SOMETHING. |
Posted By: Moki Marko
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2011 at 11:27pm
Im thinking for $3,700 I'd get a whole new 'A' frame and bolt all the other bits to it, most of which I've replaced at some stage - might even get an alloy one for that - the axles and hitch are always going to be steel anyway |