Hi
I ams eeking advice on the best way to posistion outriggers on my Surtees 5.5m boat before I start drillling holes. I have purchased a set of 12m Tel-o-riggers and multi-directional rod holders. I am trying to figure out the best height to position them for trolling, ie should they be high up the cabin sides or down on the gunwales?
Jesusfreak - welcome to the forums. I have a ramco 560 and use the same riggers. I placed mine as high as I could, which on my boat is the cabin sides. I probably gained a foot of height - but more importantly, they are out of the way, being forward of the cockpit area. I would have lost two rod holders if I'd mounted them on the side deck as well.
We planned to fight the fish forward and thought the height might also be useful for that, by giving us more space underneath the rigger. As it happens we find it easy enough to ditch the outrigger while fighting the fish by telescoping it and tucking it in the side pocket.
On the cabin sides we ended up having to put a plywood backing to stop the cabin side flexing and wracking.
Jesusfreak,
The other option for backing I've seen used are thos cheap nylon chopping baords from payless plastics. Just chop the bit and shape it with a grinder if required. It won't react with any metal and is easy to work with.
Cheers
DA
One thing I have found, and reading Obalds comments brings to mind the whipping and flex of the rigger when loaded i.e. towing lures etc, what I have found is to lower the length in which I tow the lure from the top of the rigger and dropping it back from the top about 2 foot helps heaps with the flex,{adjusting the halyard length would also do the same thing} I also have the added advantage of being able to a just the height of my riggers as they are arms which swing out from the boat unlike the chat-fields where unless you have them fixed to the top of the roof / hard top you can really only set them in one posse, being able to adjust the height allows me to lower them in the rough and height for the calm conditions.
My Halyards were all nylon coated cloths line which is a cheap as from the warehouse and very strong as it has a cord running up the middle of it, I have recently been trying heavy nylon which also works very well, the halyards are all tensioned with heavy bungee which works very well from the halyards I have 1 roller troller and 1 Perko peg this allows me to tow both skip or live baits and lures at the same time with skippers being the best while towing lures. The roller troller is fixed and the peg is able to be slid up and down the halyard to get the best posse in the water.
The reason for towing two lures baits etc from the out riggers is because I troll 6x 80�s 2 from the riggers and with two of them off each corner and sometimes have a 50 off the shotgun, I think when I had Barrie and Fish-bait out we were towing 8 lures at one stage, which is a lot but with an experienced crew the panic on hookup would be minimized.
In a trailer boat I think you cannot go past chatfields bases for the riggers over rod holder style, but in saying all this it comes down to what we can afford, a small suggestion is to approach a stainless manufacture and ask the to make some bases up for you, my young brother had some made up for his Bay liner which he could take down if he wished or leave them permanently up.
I have to say that my tel o riggers are not at all soft. I prebend them about 8 inches with tension from the halyard to a cleat below, and about 8 inches aft of the bases, and even if the clip lets go the rigger wouldn't snap back more than a few inches. When trolling it moves very little.
I used foreguys last year but found them a bloody hassle and they got in the way of photos.
When we fought the marlin at Whangaroa, the rigger was in the way. We were able to whip it out, telescope it and throw it in the cabin in just a few seconds.
Just my two cents worth and acknowledging plenty of inexperience.
Oh and I retained the plastic chopping board mounting on the outside to insulate the metal bases from the alloy hull. The ply is on the inside. Both are bedded on plastic sealant (not RTV) and have through-hull plastic inserts (which I got from Ramco)
In case anyone is interested the full drama of how I set the boat up has been featured in the last two issues of Propeller magazine - with the third article, entitled "Gotcha" coming up in the next. 
par�a�graph
n.
1. A distinct division of written or printed matter that begins on a new, usually indented line, consists of one or more sentences, and typically deals with a single thought or topic.
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BA ol' bean....
I added a few paragraphs in to your excellent post above....to achieve this I simply used the [Enter] key after what I interpreted to be a new train of thought or idea....try it you may even like it....
...I know I for one will.
Thanks mate.
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I have to disagree with Obald and agree with Bender on the "stiffness" of Tel-o-Riggers....well the ones I have used at least have been more than stiff enough to do the job and release "on the bite", but then again using an ultra light setting on the Blacks Clip takes care of any real give in the system anyhoo?
Obald your rigger set up is very impressive indeed.....but has your hook-up ratio improved on your sticks since adding the foreguy tensioners?? serious question.
I am sure they would have been Tel-o-Riggers Swine.....out of curiosity what was the negative effect of the riggers being to "soft" as far as you are concerend mate?
FL,
Season 2004 hook up rate crap.
Season 2005 hook up rate OK.
All things for both seasons identical in the outrigger department - the new riggers had the foreguys on right from the start (as you well know
)
I reckon the difference had more to do with the world price of tin - and I fished with slightly heavier drag settings. BUT in the middle of a good season I went the week of the Nationals at Whangaroa with something like 8-4or5-0.
Buggered if I know - enjoying myself though
Quote: Originally posted by Kerren on 03 May 2005
I am sure they would have been Tel-o-Riggers Swine.....out of curiosity what was the negative effect of the riggers being to "soft" as far as you are concerend mate?
Damn...sprung!....
...as long as you are having fun ol' buddy...that is after all the essence of why we do this!
Swine....that is as good of a reason as any....did stiffing them up help your catch rate?
Quote: Originally posted by Bushpig on 03 May 2005
Quote: Originally posted by Kerren on 03 May 2005
I am sure they would have been Tel-o-Riggers Swine.....out of curiosity what was the negative effect of the riggers being to "soft" as far as you are concerend mate?
They were casuing the lure to be pulled out of the water as they sprung backwards and forwards. When we stiffened them up, we stopped the lures from been pulled out of the water.
Interesting.
Obald - you say you run the riggers with the tips abeam of the stern or transom. Why is that - I would have thought that would make the riggers much softer as the angle to the line would be wider, therefore more leverage. I couldn't do that with the telos because they'd only be about two feet off each side.
Bushie - My telos don't snap back because they are tensioned aft, but with the cleats quite close to the bases, I don't get much slack in the halyards when they bend aft. I'd like to claim this as being a carefully thought out process but is in fact complete coincidence. I just bunged the cleats on where I thought they might be OK.
I'm happy with them for now, but with the rider that it was my first season and I only had one decent crack at it after a few setbacks and visits to the west coast aboard miss besinkin.
Can't wait until next year to further confirm all my theories.
here is a link that may help with out rigger rigging and instalation
http://www.reelax.com.au/pdf/ORIGGERSfit.pdf
strawberry
Bent One
Tips levelish with the transom (and mine aren't). The idea is that on turns it cuts down the chances of lines crossing. There is a diagram on an earlier thread somewhere but you can see the logic of it if you just do a bit of doodling on the back of an envelope. THen there are taglines..............
Fruity Person
Saw that pic when I rigged mine but was very reluctant to drill joles in my poles. I also got persauded to rig them without bungy at all - Infinitely preferable IMHO. It also made putting two halyards on each rigger very straightforward
I'll post some pictures of how I've rigged mine this evening if anyone is remotely interested
Bender, you want the tips of the riggers to line up with the stern of the boat as so as all your pulling points are the same allowing you to turn sharper. With shorter riggers however, spread maybe more important than turning.
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