HB_fishdive wrote:As ffocus has said above in most fishing scenarios you will be very unlikely to use 5x depth of wrap. I have a 100m wrap and can anchor in 70m fine for fishing (4.2m boat) |



Foxtrot Oscar wrote:Chris- Just wondering how you intend to join the two warps? Surely any knot causes a 'lump' when pulling up over the bow? Perhaps an in-line splice? ps. Hartleys are nice little boats. |
MacSkipper wrote:I tend to use either or Danforth or grapple depending on bottom as Danforth can get stuck in rocks. I use one good warp and a spare anchor (grapple usually use Danforth) and a buoy - the idea of buoy is if anchor gets stuck can tie buoy to line and return later with a bigger boat and pull out, also if an emergency or kingi on line can attach buoy and cast off. Yes I have read about X5 length of warp but not found that much needed I have 120m and anchored in current at 40m with care (let anchor bite then feed out a bit more line and again). Haven't played with release lines - I find when anchor stuck it is stuck usually - main thing is to use grapple when anchoring over rocky bottom. |
Quick silver wrote:I'd think that your backup grapnel would struggle to hold your boat out at from Foxton as its all really sandy. maybe when funds allow replace your main anchor with a new larger danforth and longer warp as in a bit of wind I would think 42m of warp would be struggling in 30m of water and no doubt with a bit more confidence you will be heading out further anyway. Then you will be able to use your current anchor as a backup and a longer warp will get you further away from the noisy anchor chain when your fishing too ![]() |
Steps wrote:you may find that the small danforth holds fine with that nice long chain anyway. As long as the chain has enough length and weight to keep the drag mainly horizontal i cant see it dragging with a small boat like that. Agree.. It may 'fail' if anchoring up in rather serious wind/ tide conditions thu... putting that into real life perspective, doubt very much is stupid enough to be out in those conditions, or even 1/2 of them. As to length.. like others above, most boats around that size very rarely anchor up in much over 30m, and if fishing thats fine. Son had 70m on his 5.5m boat which limited him to around the 50m mark off the west coast fish. The grapple.. I would not consider or think of it as a "spare anchor".... the only time I use that is when anchoring up real close into rocks .. and I mean real close...to stop the boat swinging onto the rocks as the tide changes or gusty breeze. I do carry a spare anchor (and chain)....have had to cut one free on a deep pin few years ago...lost 9m chain, and about 30m warp. Having the spare and 40m warp left meant we could still anchor up over night.. didnt have to head home...And this is where having 70/ 100m of warp works well...pick up another 50m and splice on , u still have a good 70m plus in the locker. Keep the 9m of chain on the main anchor... Splice the 9mm off the grapple onto the main warp. Put 40 or 50m of 6mm on the grapple and leave the 2m of chain on the grapple. I do not have chain on the grapple for holding the stern...try throw a grapple with a chain on it....or a 9mm rope. In saying that, Im considering... an excellent video in a rescent thread on landing on rocks and mooring the boat off the rocks.... maybe adding 1m chain, and 10 or 20mm of 8 or 9mm bungy instead. Just means dropping the grapple 1st from the stern, hooking it, keeping the tension on then drop the main anchor. A grapple, if that tension comes off, it drops, and there is a good chance it may not 'hook' up the same or at all. |
letsgetem wrote:My experience with a 4.4m cuddy cabin boat in Hauraki Gulf - only anchoring temporarily for fishing (ie not staying overnight), the need for very secure anchoring seems far less. Because, if it doesn't hold, I either let out some more rope, or move.A heavier anchor is harder to pull in. Length of rode (chain and rope) - 5 x depth I believe is for overnight and possibly difficult conditions - its not feasible for most fishing depths. I usually get away with 2-3 times depth. |
Steps wrote:Temp fishing... Drop in 30m water, 2 to 3 times depth.. thats 70 to 90m out... Not many small day boats under 5.5m have much over 50m...plus chain... and they hook up fine, even in the currents off the bottom of Waiheke on big tides. Reality is lets face it, its generally an inexperienced person dropping the anchor and the skipper on the helm. 1st order, dont throw the bloody think in too fast... keep feeling the weight, dont want the chain to wrap the anchor on the way down 2nd when hits the bottom, feel the weight start to go on, now drop another 4 or 5m....if low tide then another 3m. A turn around the bollard, and wait for it to load up, give it a few more moments then hitch it off. 30m ends up having 40/ 50m out. Skipper then keeps an eye on landmarks, surrounding boats and gps. With enough short link anchor chain, more than 9 times out of 10 the boat holds up... and if doesnt it will be because the warp dropped, thrown out too quick and the anchor tangled the chain on the way down. |
MikeAqua wrote:I wouldn't carry two anchors on small boat due to the extra space it will take up. I'd have a dual-purpose anchor like a Kewene. It's reversible, will hold over hard or soft bottom and has a break-away feature built in. I carry a second length of chain. I can use this to lengthen the main chain if required (haven't had to yet). |
Rozboon wrote:A friend of mine who does a lot of boating really rates the Kewene. Reckons he's never got one irretrievably stuck, even anchoring over some gnarly foul. They're extra safe if you do it properly and attach by the bottom eye then ziptie the chain to the top of the shank. |
MikeAqua wrote:
The Kewene has a break-away slot so in theory no cable tie needed... But maybe it's sensible to use tie on a smaller craft if you can't safely use the engine to apply enough pressure to trip the breakaway? |
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