First boat repairs - sea nymph v146

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kandrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2024 at 8:19pm
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Probably caused by water getting in. I would clean it right back as you won’t get the epoxy to bond to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote Bertiesdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 2024 at 5:26pm
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Is the pic you posted of the keel band? And where exactly is separation between layers of mat? Can you post better pic? The separation is caused by resin failure which will have been caused by damage to telcos then flex then water. Older resins and mats were nowhere near as good as modern and things like water ingress caused by osmosis in fibres was a problem. The real answer is to cut back until the separation is gone - as it’s the keel (I assume) it’s important to rebuild strength and integrity. You will need new mat if it’s a patch larger than about 2 x 2 in. Cut to size and bond/ fair as best you can using filler. The problem is access because ideally you want that keel band out the way.. keel bands are a total PITA on glass boats - if the boat is trailered right ( ie trailer set up properly) you h wouldn’t need it. Drilling holes into the bottom of a boat for screws is asking for trouble! Make it part of the long term plan to get rid of it. If you have better pics can maybe offer more advice.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Primer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2024 at 11:52am
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Ok I haven't got the dremel bits yet but gave it bit more of a cut back with a stanley knife.

Yes its the keel band see the pics below for a better view. Looks like the layer underneath is woven. There is a similar damage further along the keel that when I started prodding opened up just like this one (top two pics).

I was also thinking the keel band will have to come off as I started to scratch way at it. I want to prop the boat up on the trailer so I can remove it, will see what I can come up with/jerry rig. 

The boats not trailered right so the keel strip will have to stay for the time being. Fixing up the rollers and boat position is another item on the list.









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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Primer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2024 at 11:55am
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Pulled a couple of keel screws too. Appear to be stainless, so I'm guessing they have been replace at some stage as originals are brass I believe? Only pulled three and they tightened back up solid.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bertiesdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2024 at 9:49pm
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The screws don’t look like they were bedded in with much- esp if the came out easily. If you absolutely have to put a hole in a hull now everything would be bedded in with 3M 502 or similar.

The separation is quite hard to gauge . If you push a narrow flexi palette knife blade into it how far before it’s firm?

There is a way to fix relatively simply ( short term ish) but basically you need to invert the hull- which would need getting engine and anything else off and getting it supported right- obv don’t know your space constraints. Get it upside down though and you will give yourself a much better result- gravity if your friend here as a liquid resin mix into the separation space can provide a reasonable repair bond for the short term- faired on top with epifill. Did exactly this on an old sailing dinghy years ago suffering similar problem. That’s the best way forward to get this old girl back on the water asap. But depends again on extent of mat separation internally!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Primer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2024 at 7:26pm
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I brought some selleys marine sealant so I can put some of that in the holes when I put the keel strip back on.

I don't have a flexi palette knife blade but I just thought of my feeler gauges, they are quite flexible so I will try them tomorrow.

Got close to getting the keel band off today. I've made a timber frame on the trailer to support the boat once I jack it up. Just need to put carpet on the timber supports, jack boat up and screw it into place.

Space is a constraint and I don't have any lifting gear so flipping the boat at my place without wrecking it would be difficult. I could really use proper high stud garage about now. I'm thinking that once the keel band is off I'll have to aggressively strip back the fiberglass till there's no more separation and do a proper repair. I've got a 125mm P80 flappy disk on my grinder that will make short work of it. I'll jerry rig something to provide heat so I can use a polyester resin to complete the structural repair and use epifill for fairing.




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kandrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2024 at 8:32pm
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Good luck mate, hope it works out for you.

I might have some off cuts of 450gram woven mat at work if you’re in Auckland.

I’m in Onehunga if you can pick it up it’s yours
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bertiesdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2024 at 9:14pm
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Sounds like a plan.

If you do need to flip it at a later date it’s not that hard on a boat this size. Loads of tyres to lift onto first and a second line to protect gunnel as as pivots up. The screen height ( assume it’s pretty standard ) is bout 30 in max?? This is can be managed with tresle height- or even a stack of tyres if you have a pile to access. Three blokes should take care of it. Obv any rocket launcher etc need off first. It always looks a mission but as long as you have manpower it’s not as risky as you think. If you could manage I would strongly advise- you always get a much better result in any proper small boat keel repairs if the whole length can be exposed and accessed easily. If it’s a no go it’s a no go. You can still improve the integrity a lot with boat upright but will need to mix things a bit stiffer to reduce working time and hence any effect of gravity before u get any covering films in place for curing
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Primer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2024 at 5:16pm
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I got the keel strip off today and poked a 0.25mm feeler gauge around. The large hole has 8mm of separation under the keel band area and nil up the side of the keel. the smaller one has a few mm of separation. I'll get some disposable overalls then get into sanding it with the angle grinder.

Kandew - Thanks for the offer, I have some other structural repairs to make so will order a bunch of resin, double bias, csm etc once I know what I need.

Bertiesdad - Lawn space is at a premium and would have to remove some plants to roll it. Even then it would be tight without moving the boat back while rolling. When you say mix things a bit stiffer do you mean upping the catalyst or using an additive to thicken it up?



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bertiesdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2024 at 6:46pm
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The 8mm separation will need mat by the time you cut back and building up again to follow profile bearing in mind it will need properly fairing at some stage. You won’t really know how best to attack it until you e got the whole area back to solid glass/ gel coat. Post up some pics at that stage and we can pitch in our 2c if you want it.

On thickening up- you can up the catalyst a bit- no more than 10pc- which can speed up- but easiest way is to mix normally and let it go off until you have a consistency that will not be too deformed / pullled out by gravity. You will end up wasting a bit more and timing is key getting things in place before mix becomes unworkable. It’s all a bit trial and error but start with small amounts and see what works best and build up the layers.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2024 at 7:15pm
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50mm wide insulation tape can be your friend. helps, fill hole and place over top,it will peel off
"Times up"
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Primer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2024 at 12:55pm
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Got to spend a bit more time on it this morning. Ground back the large and small holes and opened up another next to the small hole + lightly touched shallow chips in the gel coat along the keel. Ended up chasing the separation along the keel line for the 3 holes (one new). I'm wondering if the separation on the new hole is layup related, some of the resin is very smooth as though there was no adhesion between layers to begin with.



New hole (small hole to the right)






Here's the large hole




small hole (to the right of the new hole)


Where I need to apply glass I will feather out 12:1 once a find something less agressive than a flappy disk on the grinder. Changed to P120 and it still stripped out the material very quickly. Will do some research and see what I can find.

One thing of concern I came across was a small amount of moisture coming out of a couple of keel screw holes 1/3 from the stern. I'm thinking water is soaking through the keel from the inside. The floor is definately leaking as water pisses out the bung hole everytime it rains. I'm guessing its leaking through cracks in the gel coat, as I've put sealant in any screw holes that I could find. Maybe its time to pull the floor up and have a look?

Bertiesdad- I'm always keen for people to throw in their 2cents, its all new to me and the more info the better. I see what you mean with the resin I'll let it go off a bit before putting it on and do it in batches to maintain workability.

Pcj - Yip got some 50mm around that I can use.









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