DIY Jigs

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    Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 12:11am
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Has anybody had a any success (or lack of) making their own Jigs. I was considering giving it a nudge. 

Searching mighty Google for 'the idiots guide to making jigs' found one fairly relevant post, almost enough incite to give it a go.   I'm sure the 'collective we' -  that obviously have way too much time on our hands - can come up with something close enough to provide the necessary encouragement to invest time & money.

there appear to be two prerequisite courses: Lead Alloy 101 & Mould making 101

Lead Alloy 101 (some dudes brew ex google)

plain lead 65-75%
printers metal ( a lead -tin alloy ) 35-25%
then add a touch of white bearing metal ( usually high phospherous/ antimony ) to toughen the above mix.

A touch is a touch............too much white bearing metal & the mix goes too brittle & will break when dropped.

The standard approach is to take your best guess of the above
cool a casting , place in vice 50/50 exposed & hit with hammer .
( don't test it warm..........it needs to be at room/water temp ).
- If it snaps add more plain lead.
- If it bends too easily..........add more white bearing metal.
- If it bends a bit & does not crack , you have a good mix & cast the rest of the mix into jigs.

Metallurgy from a previous life coming to the fore.

I cast a lot of lead slugs & jigs with this mix for personal use.
Most car bearings these days are a thin white bearing metal coat over a copper shell, so its no longer a suitable source of the white metal.
The best source is lathe swarf from an engineering shop that does Industrial machinery white metal bearings, but make sure its clean white metal.

High phos lead powder can be obtained directly from metal alloy companies you can find on the web, but its pricey that way.

you can get a tough alloy using just high percentages of printers metal in the mix & no phos...............but thats an even more pricey way of getting the end result & its very touchy as far as brittleness .
The right mix is found in a very narrow range of plain lead - printers metal percentage without using the phos to modify the lead -tin alloy that results.

The best user-friendly alloy is a lead-tin-phos-antimony alloy that results from the mix identified at the top.

Issues: 

  1. I don't know where to get phospherous or antimony
  2. I don't know where to get printers metal.
  3. Some people use Hard lead alloys such as that used in wheel weights but that was more specific to jig heads.

Mould making 101: There is quite a bit available on moulds, the main points being

  1. Bog moulds are OK- not as durable but ok for a few.
  2. High temp resistant silicon RTV mould - last well and durable. The Ducks nuts
  3. Mould needs to be hot, repeat cast to heat the mould until primo.
  4. The harder the lead alloy, the harder it is to cast due to the rapid setting nature of the alloy 
Any advice would be appreciated (excluding 'get a life', and other comments regarding the pucker of my money sphincter) 


 



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote makka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 8:14pm
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mates of mine on the oil rigs catch kings on 200mm shifters with assist hooksWink

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote feeder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 10:07pm
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Wheel weights have approx 4% antimony, printers lead approx 13% antimony, printers lead these days is a bit like finding rocking horse sh*t, old style jigs we used the 4% mix and this was satisfactory, you can bend them but they don't snap.
 
Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote treedoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 3:14pm
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Bog is ok for smaller jigs (<150g) but dosnt hold up for larger jigs, it melts/catches fire. It is also cheaper to just buy jigs if you are going to use bog.
By the time you buy the bog , CRC, stainless wire, shell out a box of piss for a bucket of wheel weights, stuff up a few molds trying to time it going off, buy some more bog, spill molten lead over the driveway, splatter your shins, put on some pants, splatter your toes, put on shoes, pour 10 jigs, melt mold, clean up the driveway, pants, shoes, buy primer, paint, clearkote, holo foils, eyes, then spray the  jigs, ruin all the holo foil, realise the eyes wont stick, sand em all off again, spray the jigs again, give em some clearkote, end up with some pretty **** homemade jigs, try to make a mold out of concrete (dosnt work), plaster of paris (dosnt work), concrete/POP mixes (dosnt work), placate the missus for all the concrete dust/splatter around the place and then go fishing and use all your favourite shiny store bought jigs anyway cos they will probably work better, it is probably cheaper to just buy jigs.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Dohboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 3:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 4:02pm
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Originally posted by treedoc treedoc wrote:

Bog is ok for smaller jigs (<150g) but dosnt hold up for larger jigs, it melts/catches fire. It is also cheaper to just buy jigs if you are going to use bog.
By the time you buy the bog , CRC, stainless wire, shell out a box of piss for a bucket of wheel weights, stuff up a few molds trying to time it going off, buy some more bog, spill molten lead over the driveway, splatter your shins, put on some pants, splatter your toes, put on shoes, pour 10 jigs, melt mold, clean up the driveway, pants, shoes, buy primer, paint, clearkote, holo foils, eyes, then spray the  jigs, ruin all the holo foil, realise the eyes wont stick, sand em all off again, spray the jigs again, give em some clearkote, end up with some pretty **** homemade jigs, try to make a mold out of concrete (dosnt work), plaster of paris (dosnt work), concrete/POP mixes (dosnt work), placate the missus for all the concrete dust/splatter around the place and then go fishing and use all your favourite shiny store bought jigs anyway cos they will probably work better, it is probably cheaper to just buy jigs.
 
 
I think you have summed it up pretty well there treedoc...
 
If you want to try a really cheap and super easy DIY jig making venture, have a looksy at this website- http://humboldttuna.com/smf/index.php?topic=546.0
 
Depending on the size of jig you want the above link may help you.Big smile
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 12:06am
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Yanks have a similar issue, too many toothy critters, not enough $$$ to feed them as well. 
http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f87/help-me-choose-butterfly-jig-mold-3823/#links

Was thinking of using a product like this to make the mold:

Mold making method:

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 9:07am
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Originally posted by JOLLY JOLLY wrote:

Yanks have a similar issue, too many toothy critters, not enough $$$ to feed them as well. 
http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f87/help-me-choose-butterfly-jig-mold-3823/#links

Was thinking of using a product like this to make the mold:

Mold making method:


Hey Jolly,

Got any further with this? Would be good to see how you are getting on... 
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Reel-Appeal-Lures/300309486704362
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 11:46pm
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No, not really. Not many encouraging posts...

The Silicone RTV linked above is about $80/500g in NZ, it's significantly cheaper in the US so I'm looking at shipping some. There are only a few that say they're good for 300°C, Soft Lead melting point is about 327°C and hard lead is higher still I think. http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/high-temperature-silicone.htm

I need a supply of hard lead, tyre weights shouldn't be too difficult but something with more antimony in it will be. Is The Sinkerman still in business in Onehunga? I might pay them a visit. Battery lead could be the go. http://www.planet-metals.com/lead/ 

Attention's now turning to topwater lures, had a bit of fun at the Kauri Pt Wharf in the weekend, little poppers copped a fair bit of interest, got the locals pretty excited. One customer, for a while anyway. Felt a bit under gunned on the SP gear. I better check if Dohboy has sourced a decent blank yet.  
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote markallan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 12:28am
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Originally posted by JOLLY JOLLY wrote:


No, not really. Not many encouraging posts...
 


YOU CAN DO IT JOLLY!
hahaha. Kauri point?
If you live near Tauranga I might have a few big pieces of lead lying round somewhere.
If you get to that stage, which I'm sure you will.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 7:39am
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Cheers.

The in-laws live there. Enough action at the Jetty this weekend to keep a grown boy interested, for longer than is socially acceptable anyway. 

As I was leaving there was a big stingray cruising about the shallows with 4-5 legal Kingis on it's shoulder, they all peeled off and  exercised a bit of foreplay on the Warehouse popper, left wanting though... bloody foreplay - I wanted more! 

I might start with battery Lead. 10% Antimony supposedly. I have a heap of Net Leads for soft lead to add if required.   
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote treedoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:45am
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Here are some of my jigs in various states of completion, none are finished. Two shapes here, a 220gr with lots of flutter, and a 320gr long jig.
I stand by my original comments though LOL 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote treedoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:46am
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Ps.... YOU CAN DO IT JOLLY
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:16am
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What Lead did you use Treedoc? How do they compare in terms of rigidity to boring old store bought ones without ... character.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote treedoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:45am
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Tyre weights bro. The long ones bend, but only if something hits em, and you can bend em back again. They catch fish, have had better results with lumo, so most of these have one side lumo.  I have about 25 jigs on the go at the moment, not as flash as store bought but I couldnt afford to buy 25 from the shop at once..
If I were you I wouldnt get too carried away with antimony/mettalurgy or RTV in the early stages. I would buy some cheap bog, clone a 150gr jig with wheel weights and see how you go. Lead is pretty toxic $hit so keep the whole process away from kids and wear protection.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 1:35pm
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Thats all I needed Treedoc, got the enthusiasm surge required, off to Bunnings for bog this arvo!
Cheers...I hope
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote michael29973 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 4:38pm
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what paint do you use treedoc?
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Just whatever I have got in the shed mostly..  I sand em, prime em, attach foils if using foils, give em a couple of coats of white undercoat, then 5 coats of lumo on one side (bought it from Mitre 10 but it glows better than some jigs I have seen) and whatever paint on the other side.
Then I spray 4 coats of clear.
Sometimes I use spray cans, sometimes brushes. If using brushes lots of thin coats gives the best results.
If using glow a good white undercoat is essential. The more lumo applied the better the glow. I use 5 thin coats with a brush.
You can spend a fortune on two pot/etch primers, compatible undercoats and top coats, and two pot epoxy clears, and get all funky with airbrushing if you want.
The reason I make jigs is because we have lots of barracuda and I lose heaps of jigs, so I dont get too carried away on paint.
I dig the effort of pros like RAL on the topwater stuff though, mean.
 
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cheers mate.
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