3 blade vs 4 blade prop selection

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    Posted: 20 Sep 2016 at 10:25pm
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I have a 5.5m stabicraft with a '07 johnson 90hp 2stroke which had a 3 blade 14*15.3 (prop scan) which had been through the wars.
 

Around this time last year i put a solas 13.5*15 amita 3 blade which has a progressive blade shape and resulted in marginally better top end speed at the same WOT.

 

I use the boat for either snapper fishing on the east coast in the gulf and when weather permits game fishing on the west coast over the manukau bar.

 

the budget at this stage does not allow a re-power and hence the leadin to the question.

 

Fuel use is fine when snapper fishing in simple terms cruise out, fish and cruise back and relatively fuel efficient at cruise speeds.

 

In terms of trolling for mr beaky trolling at 6.5knts to try to keep rpms low enough say(1800rpm) at around 10L/h.

 

Is there any merit in a 4 blade prop in terms of a combination of the following:


  • more propulsion

  • less rpms at trolling speed

  • better fuel efficiency

  • i assume more desirable for bar crossings

I would be happy trolling at 6.5knots at slightly lower rpms and sacrifice top end speed (which rarely gets used on the west coast).


At the time weighed the boat and borrowed an old 4 blade prop (12.5*15 which was an old stainless prop and very flat bade shape) and did some trials for lightly loaded and heavily loaded for all three props.

 

Has anyone considered this scenario before or am I barking up the wrong tree?  

 

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 
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Updated engine year to 07. Had written hull year by accident.
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A 4 blade is generally cupped more (more grip this slip for a given total blade area compared to a larger 3 blade

 ie lets take the 13 spline johnson... a 13 1/4 4 blade has less blade surface area than a 14 " or even a 14 1/2" (if they made such a prop in 13 spline)   but very similar grip.

 Also with 4 blades they tend t throw in a little more rake, which lifts the stern little more.. this is a sort leverage thing... a wider thrust out the rear breaks the water surface sooner, so the top edge of the 'push' is not there and the bottom of the push levers up the bow more.

 having more grip (less slip) , espec at low rpms, gives less slip at low speeds and cruise... hence better in rough seas, bars  and better economy... but at WoT loads up the outboard more... so having the boat well powered is essential to maintain at least 15 to 20% of surplus power at any given rpm ....And in rough weather and espec bars stuff ESSENTIAL for safety.. if u dont when you need that grunt to climb a wave, power out of something it will not be there...

A racing boat.. like a drag race car, has a lot of slip in lower rpms.. till it hit the full power rpm range.. with boats this is in the prop.. in the car a torque converter....hit the throttle, the prop/ torque converter , slips like hell the rpms climb very fast to power range, the prop/ converter grips and the neck snaps back
Similar action with the driver with a manual/ clutch car.
 Also race boats usually only have 2 blades..

The extra grip at low rpms gives excellent manoeuvrability in reefs , rocks, moorings etc.

Id have a boat min powered, and not no need hitting WoT, or not going to hit rough weather / bar crossing... one can get  substantially more out of in performance and economy with a 4 smaller 4 blade... This is because most 2S have a fast power to rpm curve in lower rpms... so potential to over prop a little... to the lower margins of the manufactures recommend WoT rev range has advantages. But avoid loads above cruise.
 It is this basic principle that when take to extreme one can move a  heavy slow moving barge/ boat effectively and economically... but its not going to handle a bar crossing well.

If the boat is under powered.. you WILL load up the engine, shorten its life dramatically.. nothing will 'fix' this issue... performance/ economy/ engine loading is all bad.. often ppl will add a P/trim to a selected prop.. yep helps the numbers/ performce but that just loads up the leg/ power head even more.

 If over powered, one can cruise at very low rpms eg 40+ mph at 3600/ 3800 rpms....but issues  arise, even with good grip.. accelerate slightly and the stern hangs out like a V8 doing so on a wet road to 50 mph .. nee to trim down.. and WoT forget it one has potential for 50/ 60 mph in hulls not designed to be stable at those speeds, and chances are gear is not stowed in such a manner.

A 4 blade allows one to increase the pitch with smaller  diam prop with less surface than than the equivalent 3 blade without decreasing grip for low to mid range rpms.

 unfortunately far to many.. maybe enough to be 'most' boats sold, new and 2nd hand are either min powered or under powered... and many offical ratings on boats the min rating is under powered....its about selling the biggest possible boat the person can afford with the smallest engine to meet their budget... its about sales volume not quality of sales far too often.
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Four blades should give you better grip on acceleration, and on some hulls will attain better fuel efficiency at cruising speed as it lifts the stern and can hold the boat on plane at a lower speed. 

 

Four blades will have worse propulsion and direction control when in reverse than a three blade.


For trolling speed - I would focus on the propeller pitch, not the number of blades at that engine speed, if both props are 15 (15 inches of travel) the boat speed should stay the same.


My 2 cents - a good stainless steel three blade prop would work best – go for diameter and not too much rake.

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Go the 4 blade, the lower planing speed allows you to cruise at lower speeds when its rough. Offshore boats don't need to be fast, but they do need to handle. You have an aluminium hull which have stuff all inherent hull lift. Lifting the stern with a 4 blade prop makes the boat run flatter. 

You'll find that you'll lose a knot or so of top speed, but probably improve your trolling fuel economy. You get less slip at slower revs with a 4 blade prop.

Just make sure that you know what your optimum rev range for your engine is and that you prop it to get the top end of that range. 

Do all that and you'll think you have a new boat.
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Hi Steps

 

Thank you for the explanation, which i think i understand. Great way of explaining it to.

 

I want to clarify a couple of things as follows:

 

o        the only reason i referenced WOT above was to check that the new 3B prop was within the engine WOT range of 4500-5500rpm

o        my general cruise rpm is usually 3500rpm when weather permits. In terms of fuel efficiency l/h increases significantly over that rpm

based on the above i think it is reasonably well propped for the solas 3B (I’m no expert)

How do you tell if  a boat is underpowered / overpowered if its not a silly question. Some  info that may help as below: 

o        820kgs dry hull & motor

o        160kgs motor

o        boat loading

o        340kg - 1POB fuel & gear - snapper fishing

o        790kg - 1POB fuel & gear - game fishing

o        hull rating

o        max 130hp

o        no min hp stated

o        capacity 950kg

 
If I understand correctly I need to make use of the extra grip / less slip of a 4B at low and cruise rpms without any long term damage to the engine as I would still be doing bar crossings and may well require on occasion loads above cruise rpm.
 

I'm not mechanically minded so be kind if i stuff this part up. the boat mechanic told me that the carb'd motor has like a three stage fuel delivery rate so to speak ie idle, lets say moderate acceleration and full accleration (not his words).

 

I’m guessing that I’m in the upper range of the “moderate acceleration” when trolling at 6.5knts and rpm range of 1850 to 2000. That in tandem with the hull shape is not good if a 3B prop has more slip at low rpms.

 
so how can i figure out the following two questions:
  1. is the boat underpowerd (guessing its not overpowered). How do you work out the 15 to 20% of surplus power that you mentioned?
  2. will a 4B prop suit the boat/motor giving extra grip at lower rpms resulting in trolling speed of 6.5knts at a lower rpm than that of a 3B prop

I would be keen on a 4B setup if its better in rough seas, bars etc which in more suited to the west coast and sacrifice a lower cruise speed to that of the 3B

have been mulling over the idea for a while and been to one shop but i guess there are too many unkowns for a shop to say that "x" prop is what you need for your boat. i'm not trying to bag the shop either by saying that.

Any feedback greatly appreciated. pm me if that works better.

 

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Hi Bigfishbob
 
thanks for the reply.
 
I tried a random borrowed an old 4B prop (12.5*15) and it didn't give any benefit when compared aginst the 3B prop at the similar rpm's.
 
the was no science to the size prop selection just one i could borrow an try. that said it looked like an old design.
 
At this stage i'm not sure how to select a 4B prop without it being a very expensive trial and error learning excercise.
 
i was told to go stainless in a 4B prop as well. 
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the only reason i referenced WOT above was to check that the new 3B prop was within the engine WOT range of 4500-5500rpm

 
Max hp is usually in the middle.. and drops off after that.. so going over that (5000) power drops off , u go faster and basically loading the engine more.
IF one went up a pitch, dropped Wot rpms from 5500 to max power at 5000 rpms , because of the pitch change your will go faster.. if the slip is correct. You will also increase your cruise speed. or use less rpms for the same speed...improved economy.


my general cruise rpm is usually 3500rpm when weather permits. In terms of fuel efficiency l/h increases significantly over that rpm

based on the above i think it is reasonably well propped for the solas 3B (I’m no expert)

If well powered .. top end yes.. generall cruise is around the 3800/ 4000.. its a balance between a few more rpms (more avaible hp at the prop) and being able to have les throttle.


the boat mechanic told me that the carb'd motor has like a three stage fuel delivery rate so to speak ie idle, lets say moderate acceleration and full accleration (not his words).

 Sort of.. sounds impressive right.. put that way its mechanic complicating things when they shouldnt...a carb be it on a 1950s 2 cyclnder jowett braford, a a 4 barrel holly on a hot rod... basically not 3 stage.. but 3 individual carbs in one.

A idle carb...when idle butterflies closed a circuit to leack fuel at a constant rate past then and the main jets.

Off idle.. thru to WoT.. butterflies open the amount of air sucked into the engine (think of it as a pump) by venturi effect sucks the fuel thru jets mixes with the air into the engine.

And acceleration.. when hit the accelerator is pushed down, the engine needs a rich mixture to speed up.. so a pump squirts more in, operated off the accelerator.

And then have the choke.. which basally chokes off air flow at idle making a rich mixture to fire up the engine on.. engines require rich mixture.. sort of like the above with the accelerator pump to accelerate.

 This is nothing 'special' for outboards or make what ever.. its just how all carbs work....not the2 mixture screws on your lawn mow / chain saw? same thing


I’m guessing that I’m in the upper range of the “moderate acceleration” when trolling at 6.5knts and rpm range of 1850 to 2000. That in tandem with the hull shape is not good if a 3B prop has more slip at low rpms.

Hang on just make another expresso

Yep the more grip u have down low the better control you have.. trolling, manoeuvring in moorings or inside a reef now one else would dare to go

A race or even max rpms set up will have around 28 or even 38% slip at troll to cruise.. WoT when the grip kicks in this drops to around 5% (see explanation compared to a race torque converter a nd shopping basket car torque converter previous post) The shopping basket (general use trolling cruise boat, at cruise you are looking at around the 10 to 14% at cruise.. trolling at the bottom end.

Side not here.. this is why so many lake boats (trout and stuff) have aux motors.. the main engine is professionally propped for max rpms and dont have control bottom end

is the boat underpowerd (guessing its not overpowered). How do you work out the 15 to 20% of surplus power that you mentioned?

s the boat underpowerd (guessing its not overpowered). How do you work out the 15 to 20% of surplus power that you mentioned?

will a 4B prop suit the boat/motor giving extra grip at lower rpms resulting in trolling speed of 6.5knts at a lower rpm than that of a 3B prop


When one buys a boat  or repowers a reputable sales person WILL ask

1/what the total gross weight will be when used 99% of the time.

2/And what the boat is going to be used or

3/And the primary expectations of the new owner troll , cruise, race etc.

4/ Then using formula works out the correct powered engine to move that weight at given rpms on the power/ rpms curve the correct powered engine plus 15 to 20%

5/ then from the gearbox ratio, the expectations of trolling, cruise wot speeds/ rpms choose the appropriate prop with the appropriate rake, cupping, pitch and diameter to meet those expectations.

6/That prop will be trailed under the full gross load for THAT customer  rpms / speed performance numbers taken and IF NEED BE the final correct prop installed.


IF any of the above is not meet , even on the 1st prop, then the engine is min or under powered for that boat....and most boats sold are in this category... wonder why boat shops become cagey AFTER the sale?


 Ok lets start doing this with your boat

 So lets take the heavy load 1st

So all up say 1650 kg with bait tank full (???)

we need to know some numbers.

Cant see them above...

Engine model type hp and gearbox ratio.

min speed at plain, at best trim up and rpms in flat as water

From there  increase approx every 1000 rpms , re trim to best speed , verge of porpoising, or just doing so in flat water.. set, do 100m let things settle in then read speed and rpms. the next till WoT.

Important rpms and speed (gps best) are accurate

The specs of the current prop brand diameter and pitch.

Then sit down and crunch some  real numbers

A larger 3 well cupped 3 blade is very similar in behaviour to a smaller 4 blade... but the larger 3 blade the outer edge speed is far greater.

Some maintain a 4 blade is hopeless at reverse..?I think this has come about because some have used 4 blades with a LOT of rake.. too much.. any prop 3 or 4 blade with alot of rake will loose a bit of reverse manoeuvrability...or if using with a P/trim ould have that effect also.

 my experience with a well chosen 4 blade ...." you can go into reefs where even jet skis dont go  in a 5.5 m cabin boat nps (subject to wind and swells.. lets be sensible here)


 So grab those numbers and lets go from there...


It is easy for people to simply say " you need this" or "this will do the job"  but so many who do dont say why.


 



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I have used bothe 3 bladed prop and 4 bladed prop on the same rig and only benefit was holeshot acceleration and virtually no prop slip on tight high speed cornering.
I STARTED THE DAY WITH NO FISH AND I STILL HAVE PLENTY LEFT
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The results you get as explained above will depend on the boat, speed, how well powered,  if height right FOR THAT pop, the rake of the prop...
And "virtually no prop slip on tight high speed cornering." will not be slip but ventilation (not cavitation)  all 3 very different things... and good chance not because of the 4 blades but the diameter and/ or rake of the 2 props.

only benefit was holeshot acceleration

Playing down this, in my books rightly so... fast hole shot is for race/ drag boats.. general use family boats, sending someone over the stern, or "hold on tight guys" is ego BS and  sales/ marketing/ propaganda  BS.
It is best practice to lean on the throttle power slow.. dumping the power on to " blow the cob webs out is a myth..doing so creates high cylinder temps.. and all the crap build up from idling out thru moorings or trolling whatever, doest get burnt off but glazed on. It is only after considerable distances this slowly burns off... use cheap oils and the issue is even greater.
Same applies in a car.. after 20 odd miles the car seems to hit a nice groove... that can be greatly shortened by hitting the highway and slowly increase speed/ throttle.
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I think it's handy to have a boat that comfortably gets up and onto the plane.  You can choose to be gentle with the throttle (a considerate skipper) and you have 'hole shot' in reserve if you go over your normal load.

My boat (2 x 70HP 2S) has 14 x 17 OMC props.  When loaded for a two person fishing trip it ease up onto the plane at about 1/2 throttle.  It would be dangerous to use full throttle to get it up onto the plane.  One could argue it has too much hole shot.

But when loaded with 4 divers, their gear, 8 tanks and two boatmen it will still get up onto the plane easily.
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I think it's handy to have a boat that comfortably gets up and onto the plane.
 Of coarse.. and that just what a "well powered plaining hull should do"

It would be dangerous to use full throttle to get it up onto the plane.  One could argue it has too much hole shot.

 Or like mine a bit over powered... I put about 1/4 throttle in.. let go the throttle, it climbs up over the bow wave, then starts to take off, and if left would hit  30+ mph so throttle back.... then ease in a little more, cruise around the 36/ 38 mph 3800/ 3900 rpms with a 11% slip

Im looking around for a  OMC 15 spline 14" to 14" 3/4 diamx 22 or 23 pitch  or a 13 1/2 to 13 3/4 " 4 blade  22/ 23 pitch
 slow the hole shot down, and decrease cruise rpms to around 3500 rpms....At that rpm and down I still have around 15 to 17% hp margin  up my sleeve
But WoT.. just dont want to go there...even on the current prop...way over 50 mph
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Here's a prop calculator I made a few years ago where you can change a couple of variables.
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There are some amazingly friendly prop suppliers around, Propeller services at papamoa, outboard marine technologies in Auckland and Fish City in Hamilton were very helpful in lending me props to try. Frankly all this philosophical stuff and calculations are all well and good. But the simple rules that I stated previously and just trying stuff out is all you can do.

If you are achieving the top end of your optimum rev range with the pitchiest prop you can get and you see no difference in handling between a 3 blade and 4 blade prop then save your bucks and go for the 3 blade prop. If you are achieving the top end of your rev range you are very unlikely to be overworking your engine.

NOTE also that various models of props also have varying rake angles, the bigger the rake angle, the less stern lift you get. Try different models of Prop.

4 blade props can have more rake angle than 3 blade props because the extra blade gives you more stern lift.

As others have said, various models of prop also have different levels of cup, which is generally good for reducing slip, but then the more cup you get, the less stern lift you'll have. 

It's bloody good fun trying different props, and it's refreshing how helpful dealers can be.
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There are new props in my future too. 

My engines would over rev (6200) if I let them with a regular load so I'm going up in pitch.  I'll keep the current props 14 x 17 as spares and if I ever have to make trip with heavy load I can put them back on.

Looking for 14 x 18 in OMC 13 spline.  Haven't found any yet, so I might have try 14 x 19, or 4-blade 14 x 17.
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OMC and most go up in 2" increments
Merc and couple other after market with changeable hubs can get between.. but that gets expensive

 expect around a drop of approx 150 to 200 rpms per 2" of pitch increase... around 100 to 150 rpm drop per 1/3" increase of a 3 blade or going from 3 to 4 with 1/4 to 1/2" drop in diameter.
 Mike if going that far over, and going from estimated weights of the boat, unloaded you are likely to find going out to a 21 inch pitch more appropriate....
 but before jumping in and messing with pitch and stuff.. sort out the slip issues 1st.....
In automotive terms its a waste of time trying to sort tyres that grip if the clutch is knackered and slips like hell.
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How does one sort slip without changing pitch?

My engine height is correct - dribbling cav plate at high trim.

I don't think I can increase propeller width (engine spacing).

If I use full throttle for testing purposes I get 6,200 rpm.  Should be 5,000 - 6,000.

So arguably I could do with losing 500 - 700 rpm.


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Originally posted by MikeAqua MikeAqua wrote:

How does one sort slip without changing pitch?

My engine height is correct - dribbling cav plate at high trim.

I don't think I can increase propeller width (engine spacing).

If I use full throttle for testing purposes I get 6,200 rpm.  Should be 5,000 - 6,000 (I run at 3,500 - 4,200).

So arguably I could do with losing 500 - 700 rpm.


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How does one sort slip without changing pitch?
Explained above and in many other threads.
basically more blade area...and or more cupping

I don't think I can increase propeller width (engine spacing).
 you mean diameter.. the V4 omc hub?
Again covered above
In theory that could take upto approx a 15" diameter BUT they only make them to 14" diameter for the 13 spline V4 hub
 A 13 1/4 to13 1/2 4 blade has close to the same slip as the theoretical 14 1/4" would have.. ball park.. things like cupping rake  brand model make small differences as in fine tuning
Of interest the 3 blade theoretical 14 1/4" would have considerably more surface area than the 13 1/4" 4 blade, but has greater outside edge speeds and momentum

If I use full throttle for testing purposes I get 6,200 rpm.  Should be 5,000 - 6,000 (I run at 3,500 - 4,200).

 again explained above and older threads
ideally for your mostly cruise application you shoulds be at the peak hp of the range...5000 rpms or slightly below..
Which essentially means u can take far more advantage of higher pitch... or in easy terms... less rpms for the same speed... significant fuel and oil savings...in the range of around 30 to 45 %  no not a typo mistake.
If powered that well for a single engine rig , on ave you should be getting at least 8nm/ L  conservative estimate over all


So arguably I could do with losing 500 - 700 rpm.

 
No NOT arguably but according to the factory service / repair AND set up manual it should not even be set up like that AT ALL

 So at 4000 rpms what mph are you doing?
 IF the current 17 pitch prop  slip is around the 11% @ 4000 rpms you should be doing 29/ 30 mph.
With a 19 pitch 32/ 33 mph...
Which is what at cruise the commander fully loaded  spare anchor chain toilet , cooker stuff 110 L full  fishing gear etc+ 3 guys used to do with the 115 V4 .  and an overall ave mileage over approx 1000 kms  approx 0.78 nm/ L.... dropping that back to 29 mph just under 1nm/L
With the 115 the boat was just over min powered

When I talk min power/ over powered max power.. it has nothing to do with official numbers.. it is to do with hull design, boat weight and reasonable expectations what a boat that size should perform at.




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I once had an omc prop on a merc hub, came on a motor i brought, it seemed to have small blade area, awful reverse thrust..i put an old merc alloy prop on and achieved better performance from holeshot up to top speed..
Blade shape varies massively depending on different applications. Merc have a huge range.
I changed from solas to mercury vengeance, again better performance, less slip under heavy loads at WOT. Gave the solas prop to a mate who out it on his 70 hp yamaha, big difference in performance for him over the standard yamaha alloy prop.

Trolling, trolling speeds are often limited by hull length as in diplacement hull speed. Approx 1 knot per meter of hull length i think.
It takesminimal power to achieve hull speed, as soon as the bow lifts, the power requirements skyrocket. This is the worst economical rev range on a 2 stroke.
Keeping the nose down while trolling helps.
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Fishing Reports Visit Reports

Saltwater Fishing Reports
Tauranga Fishing Report - 28/05/26

Tarakihi on the bite Trips are few and far between at this time of year,... Read More >

28 May 2026
Freshwater Fishing Reports
Canterbury Fishing Report - 28/05/26

Fresh and salt turning it on! It is not very often I get to say... Read More >

28 May 2026
Saltwater Fishing Reports
Bay of Islands Fishing Report - 28/05/26

Lures paying dividends We finally had a break in the SE winds that have been... Read More >

28 May 2026
Saltwater Fishing Reports
Manukau/West Coast Fishing Report - 28/05/26

Snapper and gurnard in the harbour The weather has finally taken a turn for the... Read More >

28 May 2026
Saltwater Fishing Reports
Top of the South Fishing Report - 28/05/26

Snapper still in Tasman Bay Well, we are now at the end of May and... Read More >

28 May 2026
Saltwater Fishing Reports
Gisborne Fishing Report - 28/05/26

The bluefin are here The talk of the town is that the annual run of... Read More >

28 May 2026
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