CoastalStan wrote:Great engines but always run it on 98 if you can. Make sure you have a good filter as they don't like water in the carbs. Always flush for at least 10 mins as the thermostat doesn't open for at least 5 mins. They don't like stale fuel. |
CoastalStan wrote:I had a few issues with the first one I owned, gradually got harder to start and occasionally would just got Barrrrrrr when you gassed it. Drained the fuel and cleaned out the carbs and all good for a while. Mechanic advised me to stop running it on 91 and change to 95 and 98 if possible. Once I change to 98 never had a problem. Didn't notice any change to $ per mile and if you didn't use it for a couple of months it started first pop and ran like a dream. I think his theory was that the octane rating drops as it gets older, better to start with 98 and it drops to 93 that 91 dropping to 86. I don't know exactly but it reduced my maintenance costs and ran much better. |
Muzzfishing wrote:
Just curious as to why you say run on 98 octane fuel is there any advantages over running 91fuel. |
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Grasshoppa wrote:When i done my time, i was taught that yes,Octane , is basically a anti-knock index or rating (amongst some other things) Pre-ignition or detonation which is absolutely terminal to 2 stroke engines is caused by either too high compression, too much spark advance or poor quality/therefore lower rated fuel. In the first case, the higher the octane rating of the fuel you have sitting in your tank slowly deteriorating, the more "octane" it has to lose the longer it has before its "stale" enough to potentially cause a problem. If you think the boat may sit unused for any period of time either completely fill the tank (no or less space for the volatile 'light ends" to evaporate off too), or completely empty so less fuel to get to stale stage. When boat is used first time, fill tank with highest grade you can to mix with old and give a better average octane rating across current and new fuel. If boats been used daily and engine is rated for 91 its ok too as your getting thru the fuel before it can go stale, bit more affordable for some doing this Dont mean to sidetrack but i'll get on my soapbox here and have a crack at those who bleat on this forum about mechanics/costs of servicing and how they purchased sparkplugs and a filter and done the "service" themselves, its basic fundamentals like understanding why different fuels (other than just "cos my mate said i should") amongst other things. Its not only what a trained service tech does, but hopefully what they see/recognize and resolve before its an issue that lets them charge a hopefully only modest fee Rant over, sorry Fouling is often caused by the additives used to boost a fuels rating, good old lead was a vastly superior fuel which lasted much longer, if you can get aviation fuel at a decent price thats the way to go, but is usually prohibitively expensive Pity the yanks who get ethanol in a lot of their full (as do Gull here), that stuff melts certain plastics/rubbers etc and they have dissolving fuelines etc to deal with, not as much a problem as before but something else they have to deal with |

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