just under $900 on special from around $1100 
.. havnt checked tide times yet if the suit smudge wrote:PJC, stop winding up Steps. Steps, let's keep our posts short and succinct. No need to explain everything. |


Steps wrote:Hey thanks , I just sat down to update this thread.. didnt need to do a search The update is at the bottom of the post Got askSteps.hit same rock twice?? GPS not accurate or tide lower than expected?? OK just for your benfit will explain in more detail... Im sure most of the other have already thought all this thru by themselves. The gps is around at least +/- 2m proberly less .. going on every time go out then get home when move the route to adjust to the markers that are very regularly updated by the Waikato harbour master.. Think Toby (??) As previously stated.. and repeat.. we are in less than 1m after crawling thru down to 400mm .. then actually said to m8 " just around here" meaning just up front, between the channel markers ... " there is a rock..." So well before I have gone from just above in gear to just in gear..just enough to maintain forward motion against the incoming tidal flow...Engine tilled up so still just maintain water flow thru the intake... And then thump.. a little thump. Hence why at that angle the prop clipped it and not the skeg... Get the picture? tide lower than expected?? No.... I mentioned we had knowingly hit the tide a little lower than normal... hence before the rock , the engine tilted so just only just have the water pick up in the water.. yep repeated this point... and prop clipped , Not the skeg... Not only that its a alloy prop.. chosen because more forgiving in VERY shallow creeks, and have previously clipped a rock before.. Now since previously gently clipped the rock.. and passed the co ordinates within a meter or so to the harbour master ages ago.. which he appreciated.. the required prop a little hammer file... This then means the prop then had an area that is significantly weakened... Which then means if happen to clip something again it will not just bend a little but will have a small chunk fall out of it... The next blade only have a couple scratches Generally if clip something all the blades will have significant damage to show. As to accuracy of gps in a garmin car gps , 10yrs old. Have clear sky above will be within 2m .. +/- 1m A older verson 4 android tablet.. near the same... now obsoleted as a couple versions ago of navionics not compatible A elcheapo version 8 android.. same... navionics still compatible My old humingbird 937c gps still in use as general route in open waters. .. well over 15yrs +/- 5 m And how do i know this? because I go over board.. no pun intended when do stuff.. and when want to drop on a tiny little gut in a reef i found... for example a few kms nth of shag rock off pakatoa, I can repeat yr after yr, and catch fish. Actual update to the post: Smart marine on the ball .. the new Maxwell capstan arrived yesterday , couple days before expected... I had already pulled the old cables out, cleaned up the loom, and laid the new 16mm cables in. Since the boys.. our children build install communication towers around NZ on the most remote places, they have off cuts of very high end cable..not normally sourced in retail outlets. Down side its a little thicker and heavier So today was simply new terminal gear.. used on the communication towers for ice snow salt water, high temps etc ...crimp and heat shrink.. which is a little different to the normal shrink noticed when heated down...Apparently is very very expensive . Re did all the looms... Re done all the battery terminals, and few other bits wiring Reconnected the battery.. checked everything worked. Then checked the capstan. Which read the instructs right thru and mentioned maxwell prefer it to turn clock wise... but no + or - on its terminals, so sorted and marked which way around on a breif bench test before install. I have always had a coat of lanacoate on wash down pump (they mention that in the instruction manual,) and have done so with the old capstain. The maxwell install instruction manual also say needs to be done, along wit torques and other important stuff. Tomorrow, spray a coat of lanacoate or corrosion X (have both now)... top up the oil container (brand.. evinrude X50 ) New battery hold down tie down, slide both in finished.. Looks like another granny day bar window coming up in few days .. havnt checked tide times yet if the suit |



Steps wrote:Hmm damn.. well from the 1st post was about I should have checked the bushes yrs ago , didnt OK pull apart.. Disconnect the battery.. Oh crap see this turning long as well.. blame Tzier, he pointed this out ![]() Undo the nuts that hold the wires each sid ot the capstan motor. Undo the mounting nuts under holding the top of the capstain down. Lift capstan out and carry to the clean shed work bench . Remove the 2 small nuts at the bottom of the motor.. Slip the motor housing off.. You now have the motor with brushes, hanging out the bottom plate, armature on the bench and case with magnets in .. If you have not maintained the capstan with lanacoate or similar product.. you may find everything is pretty corroded up.. its just practice and a few minutes. A good , and repeat spray of inox or similar over a few days and things will free up. Its not a good idea to hit anything with a hammer.. or crush in a vice. I made that rooky mistake 50 odd yrs ago on a triumph herald starter motor ![]() |





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