Capstan rebuild

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    Posted: 30 Dec 2021 at 9:15pm
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Titanium
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I mentioned my anchor max capstan of unknown vintage finally died/ locked up, few days back off the west coast.
 
Learnt a $600 lesson yesterday..

Some time back it played up... so re did all the wiring and battery connections, check re greased pinions and gears etc and it fired up nicely again.. and it repeated again about 6 months ago.
So I re did connections gears etc , seemed to pick up but only around 90% ish
 
These things arent rocket science, just a basic geared starter motor...
So pulled it right down.. gears all good.
 Pulled the motor off..armature would move 1/4 turn only
Pulled the motor down.. and a big chip, and break off on the magnets..
 Inspected the armature side and the bottom edge had been touching the magnets.... this is caused by wobble in the top and bottom armature bushes because worn, sloppy.
 What eventually happened is there became enough wobble for the bottom cnr of the armature to chip the magnet, then spun  caught the chip again and cracked one of the magnets..

So checked out the cost to replace the motor only.. near on $300... I dont know how old the unit is .. at least over 15 maybe 20+ yrs. (???)
 So chatted to the Accountant and she said "just get a new one" Thumbs Up just under $900 on special from around $1100 Thumbs Up

Now here is the lesson and should have know better..
A set of new bushes that comes with brushes about $80.

  When a starter  motor, alternator, winch or capstan motor starts to play up.. (and its not the copper contact in a start solenoid) replace the bushes each end.. usually under $20 these days.
 This then spins the armature , like new in the center of the magnets and 'good for another couple 100 K miles'

 So when your unit/ winch what ever starts to play up , also service and check  replace the bushes...save you a grand or so.

 So sitting o my work bench ready to have a new motor screwed on is a fully serviced anchormax capstan head...with no wear to go..

 Same day.. same post  in fish reports, I mentioned cliping a rock in the creek..less than 400mm water, at just off idle as knew was there close by in the middle of the channel..
 Got the spare stainless 14 1/2 X 21 prop on for now..
 Still looking around for a good 2nd hand alloy one..
.
 Alloy is far more forging than stainless if clip something.
 The alloy we took a chip out of on blade where had been cliped and 'beaten straight , same rock several yrs back




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Titanium
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Steps, while having a clean up I cam across a anchormas capstan that I replaced on previous boat. I know the motor is stuffed and easy to replace that but I want to pull apart the capstan itself how did you go about it. I can find anything online or visually on what to remove
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Got askSteps.hit same rock twice?? GPS not accurate or tide lower than expected?? GPS accuracy is within 6 mI think.One I have keeps saying accurate to 6mbut it's a handheld Garmin. I hit a rock during the first gulf war.think accuracy back then was set by USA millatary 500m yep it hurt.Kbew the damn rock was there too.just not there
"Times up"
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2022 at 8:04pm
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Hey thanks , I just sat down to update this thread.. didnt need to do a search
The update is at the bottom of the post

Got askSteps.hit same rock twice?? GPS not accurate or tide lower than expected??


 OK just for your benfit will explain in more detail...
 Im sure most of the other have already thought all this thru by themselves.

 The gps is around at least +/- 2m proberly less .. going on every time go out then get home when move the route to adjust to the markers that are very regularly updated by the Waikato harbour master.. Think Toby (??)

As previously  stated.. and repeat.. we are in less than 1m after crawling thru down to 400mm .. then actually said to m8 " just around here" meaning just up front, between the channel markers ... " there is a rock..." So well before I have gone from just above in gear to just in gear..just enough to maintain forward motion against the incoming tidal flow...Engine tilled up so still just maintain water flow thru the intake...
 And then thump.. a little thump.
 Hence why at that angle the prop clipped it and not the skeg...
 Get the picture?

 tide lower than expected??

 No.... I mentioned we had knowingly hit the tide a little lower than normal... hence before the rock , the engine tilted so just only just have the water pick up in the water.. yep repeated this point... and prop clipped , Not the skeg...

Not only that its a alloy prop.. chosen because more forgiving in VERY  shallow creeks, and have previously clipped a rock before..
 Now since previously gently clipped the rock.. and passed the co ordinates within a meter or so to the harbour master ages ago.. which he appreciated.. the required prop a little hammer file...
This then means the prop then had an area that is significantly weakened...
Which then means if happen to clip something again it will not just bend a little but will have a small chunk fall out of it...


The next blade only have a couple scratches
 Generally if clip something all the blades will have significant damage to show.

As to accuracy of gps in a garmin car gps , 10yrs old.
 Have clear sky above will be within 2m .. +/- 1m
A older verson 4 android tablet.. near the same... now obsoleted as a couple versions ago of  navionics not compatible
 A elcheapo version 8 android.. same... navionics still compatible
My old humingbird 937c gps still in use as general route in open waters. .. well over 15yrs +/- 5 m

And how do i know this? because I go over board.. no pun intended when do stuff.. and when want to drop on a tiny little gut in a reef i found... for example  a few kms nth of shag rock off pakatoa, I can repeat yr after yr, and catch fish.

Actual update to the post:
Smart marine on the ball .. the new Maxwell capstan arrived yesterday , couple days before expected...
I had already pulled the old cables out, cleaned up the loom, and laid the new 16mm cables in. Since the boys.. our children build install communication towers around NZ on the most remote places, they have off cuts of very high end cable..not normally sourced in retail outlets.
Down side its a little thicker and heavier
So today was simply new terminal gear.. used on the communication towers for ice snow salt water, high temps etc ...crimp and heat shrink.. which is a little different to the normal shrink noticed when heated down...Apparently is very very expensive .
Re did all the looms...
Re done all the battery terminals, and few other bits wiring
Reconnected the battery.. checked everything worked. Then checked the capstan.
Which read the instructs right thru and mentioned maxwell prefer it to turn clock wise... but no + or - on its terminals, so sorted and marked which way around on a breif bench test before install.

 I have always had a coat of lanacoate on wash down pump (they mention that in the instruction manual,) and have done so with the old capstain.
 The maxwell install instruction manual also say needs to be done, along wit torques and other important stuff.

Tomorrow, spray a coat of lanacoate or corrosion X (have both now)... top up the oil container (brand.. evinrude X50 )
New battery hold down tie down, slide both in finished..

Looks like another granny day bar window coming up in few daysThumbs Up.. havnt checked tide times yet if the suit

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OK. 

PJC, stop winding up Steps.

Steps, let's keep our posts short and succinct. No need to explain everything.
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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Originally posted by smudge smudge wrote:

PJC, stop winding up Steps.

Steps, let's keep our posts short and succinct. No need to explain everything.

Fat chance of either happening methinks  LOL 
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Titanium
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Some ppl just cant think things thru, some do it when think they see an opportunity to wind up..
If they could think thru nps , no wind up.
 Other times and often thanked for it , the long posts explain the whys on top of the hows, people get a good understanding why do something, rather than just do it blind.
 We should not just assume everyone knows the whys, if they did they wouldnt be asking..
 And my long explanations , well ppl can choose to read if wish to learn stuff.... or skip

 Or maybe just a story that someone find interesting.. not everyone does other do..

 But wind ups out of ignorance or just for the sake of it thats not my doing or style..
Long posts so bloody what...its not a stupid childish wind up..
Priorities?

Fat chance of either happening methinks  LOL

Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2022 at 9:18pm
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Titanium
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Hey thanks , I just sat down to update this thread.. didnt need to do a search
The update is at the bottom of the post

Got askSteps.hit same rock twice?? GPS not accurate or tide lower than expected??


 OK just for your benfit will explain in more detail...
 Im sure most of the other have already thought all this thru by themselves.

 The gps is around at least +/- 2m proberly less .. going on every time go out then get home when move the route to adjust to the markers that are very regularly updated by the Waikato harbour master.. Think Toby (??)

As previously  stated.. and repeat.. we are in less than 1m after crawling thru down to 400mm .. then actually said to m8 " just around here" meaning just up front, between the channel markers ... " there is a rock..." So well before I have gone from just above in gear to just in gear..just enough to maintain forward motion against the incoming tidal flow...Engine tilled up so still just maintain water flow thru the intake...
 And then thump.. a little thump.
 Hence why at that angle the prop clipped it and not the skeg...
 Get the picture?

 tide lower than expected??

 No.... I mentioned we had knowingly hit the tide a little lower than normal... hence before the rock , the engine tilted so just only just have the water pick up in the water.. yep repeated this point... and prop clipped , Not the skeg...

Not only that its a alloy prop.. chosen because more forgiving in VERY  shallow creeks, and have previously clipped a rock before..
 Now since previously gently clipped the rock.. and passed the co ordinates within a meter or so to the harbour master ages ago.. which he appreciated.. the required prop a little hammer file...
This then means the prop then had an area that is significantly weakened...
Which then means if happen to clip something again it will not just bend a little but will have a small chunk fall out of it...


The next blade only have a couple scratches
 Generally if clip something all the blades will have significant damage to show.

As to accuracy of gps in a garmin car gps , 10yrs old.
 Have clear sky above will be within 2m .. +/- 1m
A older verson 4 android tablet.. near the same... now obsoleted as a couple versions ago of  navionics not compatible
 A elcheapo version 8 android.. same... navionics still compatible
My old humingbird 937c gps still in use as general route in open waters. .. well over 15yrs +/- 5 m

And how do i know this? because I go over board.. no pun intended when do stuff.. and when want to drop on a tiny little gut in a reef i found... for example  a few kms nth of shag rock off pakatoa, I can repeat yr after yr, and catch fish.

Actual update to the post:
Smart marine on the ball .. the new Maxwell capstan arrived yesterday , couple days before expected...
I had already pulled the old cables out, cleaned up the loom, and laid the new 16mm cables in. Since the boys.. our children build install communication towers around NZ on the most remote places, they have off cuts of very high end cable..not normally sourced in retail outlets.
Down side its a little thicker and heavier
So today was simply new terminal gear.. used on the communication towers for ice snow salt water, high temps etc ...crimp and heat shrink.. which is a little different to the normal shrink noticed when heated down...Apparently is very very expensive .
Re did all the looms...
Re done all the battery terminals, and few other bits wiring
Reconnected the battery.. checked everything worked. Then checked the capstan.
Which read the instructs right thru and mentioned maxwell prefer it to turn clock wise... but no + or - on its terminals, so sorted and marked which way around on a breif bench test before install.

 I have always had a coat of lanacoate on wash down pump (they mention that in the instruction manual,) and have done so with the old capstain.
 The maxwell install instruction manual also say needs to be done, along wit torques and other important stuff.

Tomorrow, spray a coat of lanacoate or corrosion X (have both now)... top up the oil container (brand.. evinrude X50 )
New battery hold down tie down, slide both in finished..

Looks like another granny day bar window coming up in few daysThumbs Up.. havnt checked tide times yet if the suit



Thats was a long read and no mention as to how I go about pulling capstan apart. Steps maybe you got sidetracked with PJs wind up LOL
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Titanium
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Hmm damn.. well from the 1st post was about I should have checked the bushes yrs ago , didnt

OK pull apart..
Disconnect the battery..
 Oh crap see this turning long as well.. blame Tzier, he pointed this outWink
 Undo the nuts that hold the wires  each sid ot the capstan motor.
Undo the mounting nuts under holding the top of the capstain down.
Lift capstan out and carry to the clean shed work bench .
Remove the 2 small nuts at the bottom of the motor..
 Slip the motor housing off..
You now have the motor with brushes, hanging out the bottom plate, armature on the bench and case with magnets in ..

 If you have not maintained the capstan with lanacoate or similar product.. you may find everything is pretty corroded up.. its just practice and a few minutes.
 A good , and repeat spray of inox or similar over a few days and things will free up.
 Its not a good idea to hit anything with a hammer.. or crush in a vice.
 I made that rooky mistake 50 odd yrs ago on a triumph herald starter motorWink
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Titanium
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Hmm damn.. well from the 1st post was about I should have checked the bushes yrs ago , didnt

OK pull apart..
Disconnect the battery..
 Oh crap see this turning long as well.. blame Tzier, he pointed this outWink
 Undo the nuts that hold the wires  each sid ot the capstan motor.
Undo the mounting nuts under holding the top of the capstain down.
Lift capstan out and carry to the clean shed work bench .
Remove the 2 small nuts at the bottom of the motor..
 Slip the motor housing off..
You now have the motor with brushes, hanging out the bottom plate, armature on the bench and case with magnets in ..

 If you have not maintained the capstan with lanacoate or similar product.. you may find everything is pretty corroded up.. its just practice and a few minutes.
 A good , and repeat spray of inox or similar over a few days and things will free up.
 Its not a good idea to hit anything with a hammer.. or crush in a vice.
 I made that rooky mistake 50 odd yrs ago on a triumph herald starter motorWink


Steps, motor is completely fu*#ed,that the easy bit to replace. Judging by your 1st post you pulled the actual capstan apart as well. This is what Im wanting to know, how did you or didnt you pull capstan off its housing. Photo shows what Im wanting.

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Its different to that.. thats like the new one.
Wass quite a while back.. few yrs now.
 The old capstain is higher , different part number on the bottom.
 They are meant to be sealed units... which when did it  did not know about.
 Underneath are counter sunk screws..
Base still doesnt come out of the housing.. I ran a thin sharp knife around eventually breaking the seal. Bit force and a circlip on the center drive broke came away with lot twisting turning of the main drive with the top capstan part in a wood vice.
Was a bitch to put back together, the outside seal ended up filling with silicone.
 Once inside, there is really nothing to actually service.. its fully sealed from water contamination and clean. thu did clean up and added evinrude triple guard blue grease to gears..


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As said few yrs ago did it.. above from memory.
 Just been out to the shed and had a look.. refreshed memory..

 The top winch part comes off with screw in the top.
The 3 screws under the bottom plate come off.
 With a lot jiggling and a fine edge around the outside of the center plate and repeated spray inox, crc over few days, the bottom came off leaving the main drive /gear in the housing. This is pressed in a bearing.
The drive to the top winch part is also pressed into a bearing inside the  main gear in the  gear housing housing gear.
And there was a steel/ stainless ball in the side groove of the top drive shaft.. was a bitch to get back.. and a bitch to find if when pull out the shaft dont know its there, and rolls across the floor for miles.
 Pretty much, there is nothing to crap out unless its had lot water and crap  get inside or into the bottom bearing to stuff if... and it woulds need to be really bad , enough to corrode and lock it hard.
 Bearings got the evinrude blue..anything thats plastic, non steel gets inox non petroleum grease... eg the plastic bushes under/in the top winch part.


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Titanium
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Finally got it apart, steps the new anchormax dont have a screw at the top. Bearings seem all good so will regrease and assemble, all thats left is to buy new motor.


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Titanium
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Cool.. very similar from memory
That number on the bottom 7225 I assume maybe a part number , mine is F6611
 The number on the bottom of my new one is diffent again.. bolted in to the deck so cant see it now.
 Yours  come apart reasonably easy?
Same bolt patterns. The motor on the old one also very similar and looked as if would bolt straight on.
The top shaft, pinion.. have u pulled that out of the gear/ bearing.. from memory that ball bearing is in there.
When I put back together I used marine silcone to seal the outside edge and plumbers locktite sealant on the screws.  Went to the plumber sealant as thats what we used to used on the small block chevies with the center valley cover bolts..Stopped that sometimes  tiny water water puddle collecting under the carb,
 There area around the gear inside...thought about silcone seal that as well.. ended up a good smear of blue triple guard... reason being if ever needed to pull apart again, would be an even bigger bitch and likely to snap the housing inside.
Thinking came from when reassemble reels, fill possble hollows and gaps which could be sources of leaks, with grease.

Sry Smudge long posts because of what did AND the WHY...
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Titanium
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Tzier..
I went out to the shed today to pull the top gear part apart..
Thought would pull out nps.
Did you pull the deck mounting studs out to do so.
I have marks on mine and think I did so last time
But they are locked in tight now (???)

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Titanium
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Sorted..Thumbs Up
 I had tried 1 with locknuting it..no go  posted.. and they all have tap marks where last time tapped as loading the locK nut.
 Just been out tried the other 2 and nps.
 Then the 1st again, I don not think ever had lock nuts so tight together with couple ring spanners.
And finally moved.. When pulled out..a lot salt water had seeped down the then thread dried to crystals which expand and locked it  crystals locking it inside the thread.

I have googled there is nothing on pulling the anchormax  gearbox apart..other than "sealed unit"
 Till our posts...Thumbs Up

Can buy the top bush kit , if worn.  The brushs and bottom bush housing...
Not sure on the top bush, its worn but so is the armiture shaft slightly. It was the slop in the top that made the bottom of the armiture clip a magnet.
 Or just a whole 500w motor
 I did find that the older one , not sure if mine or not had a 600w
If mine is the older 600w then the new 500w fits.

Got to be someone that has a capstan 'broken' laying around and find this thread
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