How to set up a jig rod and reel for beginners

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    Posted: 27 May 2018 at 1:30pm
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A quick video I made which may be helpful to people starting out with kingfish jigging. This is how I set up my jigging gear

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 5:28pm
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Cool.. 
 Would have liked to see , not so much what rod/ reel you use but a general description of each required to do the job.

 Do you have all J8 on the spool, or other under, and roughly how much?

I hate split rings.. there must be some other quick release type clip around. Like those barrel swivel/ clips and swivel removed?

Another excellent straight forward video...cool.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OuttaHere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 12:02am
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:


I hate split rings.. there must be some other quick release type clip around. Like those barrel swivel/ clips and swivel removed?


Once you get some good split ring pliers they literally take seconds to change jigs with. Anything else is either too bulky or too weak for the job. I won't be changing any time soon :)

As for rod/reel.... the rods are pretty specialist, you want something in the 5' to 5'6 range for overhead, it needs to be relatively stiff right the way through and fairly parabolic. How stiff exactly depends on the size of jigs you're planning to use; most rods will jig maybe a 100g range well-ish and then another 50g either side somewhat well (water depth plays a huge part as well by damping the action of the jig) so a 200-300g rod will probably jig 150-350g without too much trouble and be ideal with a 250g.

Reels need to be compact and narrow. Narrow is vital with mechanical jigging to get good line lay; you can't do it manually because the jigging action is a bit too fast. You need plenty of drag, probably 12kg minimum, and retrieve rate close to 1m/crank although you can alter your jigging action to match the reel. A longer arm and larger handle than your average reel is nice too, as is an instant anti-reverse bearing.

My 2c only but that JBraid X8 "80lb" breaks at like 105lb or something; the little Catch reel doesn't make anywhere near enough drag to make use of that, personally I would spool a setup like that with the "50lb" which breaks somewhere in the 70's off the top of my head. Straight braid Steps - these little reels don't hold a whole lot when it's this kind of line weight and if you want to jig deeper water you need all of it. My inshore jig setup takes 200m of 50lb JBraid X8 and my serious business setup takes 400m of the 80lb.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 7:53am
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Good stuff Roz...got all the little bits info in one place.
 I do like the J8..  the 30lb colored is what is used on all the current rods. Even the light strayline/ sb.. just got to take good note of actual drag loads when setting up day before, know how much 1/8 or 1/4 turn increases the drag by..
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OuttaHere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 10:17am
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Good stuff Roz...got all the little bits info in one place.
 I do like the J8..  the 30lb colored is what is used on all the current rods. Even the light strayline/ sb.. just got to take good note of actual drag loads when setting up day before, know how much 1/8 or 1/4 turn increases the drag by..

I was using quite a lot of the 30lb but as I replace braid I'm changing to the 20lb. All of the JBraid breaks way over the rating (which reflects its relatively large diameter) and what we get sold as 30lb is actually more like 50 and vastly excessive for the average "10-15kg" setup. The "20" is still over 30lb actual breaking strain and way thinner, gives way better "feel" and lets me use lighter sinkers, all round better fishing experience. I use 30lb mono leaders a lot with these setups and I'm yet to have the braid go pop, it's always the leader.

Even at mid-30lb actual breaking strength it's probably excessive for setups where the functional maximum drag is likely in the 5-6kg range; I could almost certainly get away with their "15lb" braid but I like a little extra abrasion resistance if a Kahawai goes under the boat.... plus that light braid is super slicey on the hands.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 2:56pm
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Split spring pliers.. Well we are always learning stuff.. even stuff that is sort of dumb.
 Dropped into smart marine earlier.. between posts, asked about ring pliers..shown and
 " hey thats what I have in the bait board rack.. I thought that bit on the end was to get a grip on a swallowed  hook.. "Embarrassed

They said.. which was going to be my next question around a 150/ 200gm is the usual all round ball park for the harbour HG.. 20 to 45m (???)

 I originally started with penn 30lb braid, got more gear and ran out.. tried other stuff, listened to posts here , settled on 20 lb j8. But found got afew break offs as rub on a rock or keel strip under the boat sort of thing... and would always be a good fish..
Hence why gone to the 30lb.. did not find any increase in sinkers required. Except places like the 30m+ line outside shag/ kauri pt  bottom end. now get up to a 5/6oz at full tide running.  
Since we 99% drift.. over sand reefs, and  strayline / sb (sinker at the top of the trace), bounce the sinker, would cut the fluro 20lb trace.. never the braid. Now have 30lb trace less break off on rocks, and if a fish  with a bit patience and give a bit of quiet slack to swim out , very rarely loose gear or fish.
Traces are regularly checked at baiting , swapped if suspect.
 So like you my heavier braid is more for abrasion resistance.. and careful  known measurement of knowing where / what the drag actually is (and not by 'feel')
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote coxie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 7:53pm
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Previous to the Catch JG5000 reel I have previously been using an okuma (10s I think?) jigging reel with around 12kg max drag, I find this a handful to hang onto when locked up on the ski with no rail to lean on, this being spooled with 50lb braid. So thought the Catch reel rated with 30kg drag would benefit from 80lb line when paired with a rod rated 400g max weight. I may be wrong but atleast this new setup feels smaller, lighter and stronger than my okuma setup. Only time on the water will give me answers though!
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