Hi Lads,

Above pretty well nails everything..
Im a huge fan of making my own stuff... but somethings are just not worth it in time and cost.

eg its far cheaper to bu a cheap new red shed smoker and modify seals   lpg regulator and out let than build one out of a fridge or even old timber..

Im out of my depth here  when get to 1200L fuel tanks...And large engine fuel volume flows..ie fuel line ID size.

My thoughts are: And stand to be corrected on anything here..
big tank thats a larger area for water to hold on the bottom, potential for more than expected.
So take the opportunity to increase the filter capacity size if need be..
 Fuel flow.. this is so damn critical... just go over sized ID ..

Side note, digress here, it is not always the case to go bigger thu. Things like a 1/4 mile car may get starvation and think it is because of small fuel ID size. When , and far too often, it is the mass of the fuel in the over sized line, that under high acceleration, is too great for the 'over sized' fuel pump to over come

Electrolysis: If isolated (above post) nps..
 I think.. maybe.. if 'connected ' to engine with stainless being a 'distance ' from alloy on the corrosion factor lists there could be an issue with alloy parts on the long term.

Google for metal corrosion list.. should get you to a list of conductive metals .. on the list the further apart they are on the list the more, corrosion...just a bit of general info that may come in use someday.
Sort explains why a sacrificial anod is further away than the item you wish to protect and why the anod dissolves 1st.


Edit: every time you change a filter, be it a car oil  sump, fuel what ever, always open it up and see what is in there...a Quick check can easy save you 10s of 1000s dollars.

Sweet so long as when put the throttle down it doesn't do a 10 sec 440m hole shot