Yep the same is for zinc galv.
Aluminium oxide and zinc oxide are very hard chemicals, and attach very well to their base aluminium and zinc metals underneath. Not only that, the molecules of the oxides are a little bigger squeeze together forming an impenetrable skin..
Polishing will remove the protective oxide layer, repeatedly eventually removes the galv.. thu on an alloy boat ...
put it this way will take a long time and quite a few polishing wheels to wear thru the solid hull.
We polished a lot of old school V8 valley covers, manfols , carbs, trans and wheels over the yrs.. some so bad they where solid white oxide.
When polishing or cutting, machining different metals require different cutting fluids.. aluminum is kero.
We us white stainless steel polishing rouge..
Also aluminum is a little different to polish than most other metals.. other metals is more fine 'sanding' of rough layer...
Aluminum one gets heat into it, as you move along slow building and keeping heat.. quite hot to the hand, keeping the top layer of molecules melt into the tiny pits and scratches...
But id there is deep corrosion, pits scratches...start with a sander .. or if real bad a file
When sand (or file) .. and this goes right thru to poolishing stage.. watch real close.. nearly take out the pit/ scractch. Do not scratch the bottom of the pit, not quite.
Then move to a finer wet and dry paper.. then finer, by this stage you will be at 400 or 600 grit... When have a very faint pt/ scratch left.. then buffer, rouge to finish taking it out and the scratches from the sand papers.
Once polished, cleaned down with kero, can choose to clear coat or quaity car polish depending on end use..
3 or 4 layers a day apart of polish is good for wheels, manifolds etc.. 2 pot clear coats for trans carbs etc and boat..
Now thats a hell of a lot of real dirty , messy , time consuming work...
Seriously consider a wrap...
but check out the surface prep for wrap...never done it ,therefore never found out about it, so dont know.