feeder wrote:I have an early 600, they used to be called 575 which is the water line length, have done over 500 crossings of the Kawhia bar, it handles the joggle with ease, some who have fished with me can't handle the at rest characteristics, it does move around a bit on anchor, this is a trade off from the very deep V, personally I like the ride home. Cheers |
feeder wrote:My neighbour has the 530 with a 100 yammie on the back and he is also a regular over the bar, he is happy with his. My yammie 115 has done 1300 + hours and still going strong, I am cautious about loading, never take more than 3 over the bar. Cheers |
neil_cb125t wrote:Nice - the 530 Ute in question has a 115 on it. Top of its hp range but can’t see how that would be anything but a good thing. Neil |
FizFisho wrote:
Neil have you owned a 6m Glass boat before? You are right there is nothing but a good thing pushing torque to the maximum recommended. Which is what you need to consider, not the HP but the weight and torque recommended. Keep in mind older boats are recommended HP based on 2 stroke. Dont go thinking chucking the maximum 4 stroke on is just that without consulting the builder. In most cases it should be fine. The reality is you will be dealing with less torque on the transom, but much more weight, so the extra weight with slightly less torque is the only concern. Just consult the builder and ask, just for peace of mind. In my experience 6m 150hp, 5.5115hp, 5m Ived owned a haines signature that did 75kph (sorry cant be bothered converting to knots) with a 75hp 2 stroke suzuki on it. Its all about weight mostly, once you get to 6m you are starting to haul weight. Heavy glass boat and if repowered with 4 stroke extra heavy donk = New vehicle in a lot of instances. Just stating the obvious just in case you havnt thought the basics through yet. Otherwise a good 6m glass boat is a potential inshore, offshore on good days weapon. Haines SF600. Seaforce are good boats though. Not hard to attend Coast Guard bar crossing day/course. Also pretty easy to convince a local skipper to come out with you and teahc you the bar. Just remember the time rules 2.5-3 hours going out, 2 hours max coming back in. That may change per bar. Glass boats are no diff to any other boat on a crossing. Except once out their they have the best, nice fluffy soft angelic ride lol. I think Seaforce have the right hull shape, nice entry, fairly dee deadrise, downturned chines for stability at rest. Thats whY i would go a Haines Sports Fisher, but each to their own. I know some spearos who love their old haines v17l which is all deadrise, know attempt at stability at rest aside from normal beam width. But the ride under way they are amazing boats. As for size. If you can afford 6m DO IT imo. Nothing beats size. The difference between a 5.5 and a 6 is surprisingly noticeable in decent swell. If I was limited to west coast Id consider a Deep Vee Ally pontoon of which Osprey is the only real fine entry and deadrise Im aware of The rest are good boats but designed to get you home without addressing the comfort issue, My opinion. Or you could go a 6m RIB, Light to tow and and will handle surf well. But most do not offer full cabins, I think the 6m Naiad might. |
rowboat bob wrote: The new Merc 115 four stroke which has been out for a few years now is exactly the same weight as an old 115 2 stroke Yamaha, so worrying about extra weight is with older four stroke motors . |
neil_cb125t wrote:I began to think I required a 6m boat, but the reality is I need to be able to manage maneuvering and launching it pretty much on my own. We have parking and driveway considerations - but I also wish to be able to go out solo which really pushed me towards the mid 5s.. |
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