Straylining is a tried-and-true Kiwi method for targeting big snapper. Unlike other bait fishing methods, straylining allows baits to drift with the current, offering a more natural and enticing presentation.

Straylining - when and where?

Snapper are commonly found around reefs, rocky outcrops, and structured shorelines – areas that are perfect for straylining. The general premise is to anchor and set a berley trail, waiting for the fish to come to you. Hence you want to target a spot where fish are likely to reside, and structure equals both food and shelter for snapper. Nevertheless, straylining can be effective on ‘grazing’ snapper out over the sand or mud in areas such as Tasman Bay, the Hauraki Gulf, the Bay of Islands, the West Coast of the North Island, and various harbours. 

As the name of the game when straylining is the use of unweighted or lightly weighted rigs, the technique lends itself well to shallower waters, but can also be applied in deeper areas (40-60m). Ideally, it pays to line up the wind and tide direction, so you can fish your baits astern. 

Straylining is a great option if you want to ‘scratch the itch’ in poor weather conditions!

The typical straylining location will be a place where fish will be funnelled to your line, through a combination of current and structure. A prominent headland, underwater reef, or a gap between reefs are prime examples. Fish of all sizes conserve energy by hanging out in the downstream sheltered side of structures like this. Positioning as I’ve just described takes the berley to them in exactly the same way floating natural food arrives. They pop out to investigate, only to find the easy pickings have hooks. Or if fishing from the shore, stay where you started. The berley trail will take a while to be fully effective. Don’t panic and move away. 

Although straylining is an effective method for any season because snapper congregate around reefs and shorelines year-round, it is particularly productive in many areas over the cooler months when big fish tuck up in the shallows as their metabolism slows. Targeting the dawn or dusk period, Solunar Bite Times, or tide changes can increase your chances of success. 

How to set up for straylining

Selecting appropriate gear is crucial for successful straylining. A medium to heavy-action rod paired with a quality spinning reel capable of holding sufficient line is ideal. Opt for monofilament or braided lines with a breaking strain of 10-15kg to withstand the powerful runs of big snapper and any potential flirts with kelp and reef. Additionally, using fluorocarbon leaders of 1-2 meters in length can enhance stealth and abrasion resistance.

Large, fresh baits generally yield larger snapper.

In terms of sinkers, use only what is necessary. Unweighted baits will be the most enticing, but sometimes a small ball sinker (1/4 – 1oz) is required to get baits into the strike zone due to the depth and current flow.

Some anglers prefer a single hook rig, whilst others opt for double hook rigs as they feel it helps with bait rigging and hookup rates. Again, whether to use J or circle hooks is a matter of personal preference – just remember that circle hooks are less likely to gut hook fish. 

Check out how Matt Watson sets up his strayline rigs:

Berley and chum, and baits and how to rig ‘em

Berley can make or break your straylining trip, so don’t be shy with it! Berley will attract baitfish, small snapper, and eventually large snapper into your casting zone, creating action and encouraging fish to chew. Berley can be set at the surface or deeper down with a weighted pot depending on your spot, and supplementing berley with chum – larger morsels of groundbait like chopped-up cubes of pilchard or mackerel – can really help whip the fish into a feeding frenzy. Whereas berley is the fine-minced stuff, chum offers larger fish something to actually feed on – often making the difference between catching good fish and catching fewer and smaller.

Like all fishing, fresh bait makes the best bait. Try catching your own baitfish such as mackerel, koheru, piper, mullet, kahawai, or trevally, and if that’s not possible, then store-bought oily baits such as pilchards, mullet, and skipjack tuna should be your next port of call. Ensure baits are securely hooked to withstand casting and small fish nibbling without tearing or falling off prematurely. And remember, ‘Big baits catch big fish’, is a truism for a reason – because it’s true!

Check out how to rig some common baits for straylining here:

How to fish 

When casting your bait, aim to cover a variety of depths and structures where snapper are likely to be present, but a general rule of thumb is to cast as far down the berley trail as possible – the biggest fish tend to be caught way down the trail, though there are often exceptions. Allow the bait to drift naturally with the current, adjusting the line tension to maintain contact with the bait while still allowing it to move freely away with the current and down the water column. Once the line has stopped running out after your cast, leave the reel in freespool with your thumb ready to apply slight pressure to prevent an overrun (if using an overhead reel), or in very lightly-set secondary drag mode if using a baitrunner type spin reel. Depending on your location, baits may need to be checked and re-set regularly to ensure they haven’t hung up in the kelp or been whittled away by small ‘pickers’.

Patience is key when straylining for snapper. Keep a close eye on your line for any subtle movements or taps indicating a bite. When you have a customer, sometimes it’s a smash-and-grab raid. The bait gets grabbed, and the line whistles out at a huge speed. Other times, it’s the merest slight pull. These slight pulls often happen in winter. It seems that at those times fish such as snapper crush down on the bait so as to squeeze the flesh out, rather than biting and running.

Most anglers let the fish run with the bait by giving some line, hence why baitrunner-style reels are popular with their secondary drag system. Other anglers prefer overhead reels, as they give precise control over line management/tension. Regardless of the gear at hand, the bigger the bait the more time you should give before setting the hook. With circle hooks, setting the hook is simply a matter of steadily applying drag pressure and letting the hook roll into the corner of the fish’s mouth. On the other hand, striking is typically employed when using J hooks.

Check out how two straylining experts - Bruce Duncan and Matt Watson - do it in the videos below:

- NZ Fishing News