Yamaha "Check engine Light"?
Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Outboard Clinic
Forum Description: Anything related to outboard maintenance here....
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=53527
Printed Date: 02 Mar 2026 at 4:15pm
Topic: Yamaha "Check engine Light"?
Posted By: red89mx
Subject: Yamaha "Check engine Light"?
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:07pm
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I have a tachy on my F150 which yamaha refer to as a " Digital Multi-Function Tachometer" In coming into the ramp tonight I noticed an engine symbol in the RH quadrant as I was trimming up the engine. It blinked on intermittently until I turned the engine off. Cannot find much of a reference in the owners manual or service manual....although the owners manual does say that engine trouble warning indicators only operate when engine is equiped with appropriate functions....helpful...not. The symbol is the same shape as a check engine light on euro cars. Have not been able to find googling....should have taken a piccy. Anyone know what this is? Looks like it may be an early service this year.    |
Replies:
Posted By: blackboat
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:13pm
| ill go have a look in my manuals AL see if its in there |
Posted By: Unclejake
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:22pm
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red89mx wrote:Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:26pm
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The low oil presure is the botton red oil can symbol. Possibly 2 oil lights? |
Posted By: blackboat
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:32pm
| it the symbol like a light bulb with wiggle through center,,,,,this symbol is water psi comes on when less than 10psi,,,,my guages are square |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:34pm
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Nuh - more of a stylised engine (car style) outline. |
Posted By: Unclejake
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:37pm
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I don't know so am only guessing but there could be a low oil level warning as well as a low oil pressure alarm We have our F60 in for the 20 hour service this week. I will ask them if you haven't got it sorted already
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Posted By: blackboat
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:42pm
| there is a oil can symbol and a light bulb symbol with like key hole in center the can is low oil the other low psi ,,,,im picking its the water detection symbol |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:42pm
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At end of day not going to mess arround. Will look to service early (unless there is a real simple explanation) as too expensive to risk. Bugger as there are still snaps out there with my name on them...actually the same number today as there were yersterday now that I come to think of it (thats what happens when others on the boat take your snaps). |
Posted By: blackboat
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 8:49pm
| on my tach guage i have 6 symbols ,,,,the closet to what you describe is the water detection ,your service tech will sort it ,,,,,,,,what size snaps you hookin there ,seems to be along season winter not here yet still fairly warm long may it continue |
Posted By: RC1
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 9:11pm
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It is a service code flashing, If it flashes twice then a slight pause then 8 times, then it is the signal for code 28 which is a shift position switch code, it is the most common service code. The gearshift cable will need adjusting correctly so when the gearshift is in neutral the shift slide sits in the middle of the shift position switch. |
Posted By: blackboat
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 9:16pm
i didnt see that in the manual RC1 good to know ,,,,,,i say its good to have you outboard mechanics on here learnt alot so far 
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Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 9:17pm
| Ta RC - does it only flash whilst engine running? Could not see it withy key on and engine off. |
Posted By: RC1
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 9:23pm
yes it will only flash with the engine running, im 99% sure it will be code 28 which is the shift position switch, it will flash 2 times then a slight pause then 8 times. normally the gearshift remote cable will need adjusting as the cables can stretch after a period of time, once its adjusted the flashing will go away, cheers russ 
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Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 9:55pm
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BB - a mixed bag, nothing too big about 6lb max today . Some of the other boats have bring getting some larger fish, water still 15.7 to 16.0 deg round here. |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 11 May 2010 at 9:27pm
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Well - one good idea ofset by a bad idea. Seems the check engine light as suggested by RC1 blinks to display fault codes. If it is code 28 it should blink 2x then a break then 8 x with the engine going. Not finding my muffs (been using the flush hose) I had the bright idea of using the a plasic 44 gal drum , lifted engine pushed drum up over botom unit, lowered engine and filled with water. Worked great, started engine and waited for the code.....no code in 2 mins so wondered if the shift lever needed moving to trigger...... So gently shifted into reverse....a bit of noise so I put back into neutral....could hear sound of water....looking over stern see water gushing out of hole prop had cut into the drum. Oh well off to find the muffs for tomorrows crack at it again. |
Posted By: tightlines2
Date Posted: 11 May 2010 at 9:33pm
 ------------- Remember it's not the number of breaths you take that is important in life, but rather the number of times that life takes your breath away. |
Posted By: Fissure
Date Posted: 11 May 2010 at 9:33pm
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awe, did you have a blonde moment Alan?
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Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 11 May 2010 at 10:47pm
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Yep....the full peroxide jobby. Good job it was plastic. |
Posted By: Wanda_Ra
Date Posted: 11 May 2010 at 11:33pm
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I was told by a CAR mech last year if the check engine( engine shaped symbol) goes off, its often not a biggie,just something minor needed adjusting and probably safe to drive it but to get it checked asap.( when mine went off it was the catalytic converter due to me using old old petrol from the farm)
BUT if the oil light/buzzer/temp sounds,then to stop the engine right there and then and get it towed back in etc.
Can understand the last bit, but was wondering of the trustworthyness of the first sentence in relation to Outboards...anyone know ? ------------- If you think you are too small to make a difference,try sleeping with a mosquito in your tent. |
Posted By: tobez
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:05am
| al - the enginge light will flash a code - if its not 28 then it will be something else, just need a bigger drum or drive it to the baot ramp and start it up |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:48pm
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Found the muffs today - ran engine up for 10 mins. Put into gear F + R and used trim all to no avail and no code. Did not rev up too much though. Booked in for a service on Monday . If weather ok will prob still go for a quick fish and stay local. |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 8:09pm
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Had engine serviced......ouch, oh well 70 hours in the last 10 months. Had been running a 28 code seems that this is often caused if you put it into gear when engine not going. I have had a habit of doing this to stop the prop spinning when fishing. Very intermittent as did not come up last weekend when doing a 2 hour trench trip. |
Posted By: RC1
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 10:05pm
I am interested to know how much it cost for the service, even if the keyswitch is off, the engine will not store a service code unless the keyswitch is switched 'on' I bet the remote cable will need adjusting as well, I was bang on with the code 28, it is common which is easily fixed with a simple cable adjustment.
When idling in gear, while hapuku fisjing or livebaiting you need to be positive and shift the engine in and out of gear 'postive' or quickly, this can also store the service code 28.
 Cheers Russ |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 11:16pm
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Was just over $800 again. Just under 50% materials (anodes, oil, impellor, fuel filter...) Could have been much bigger as there is some wear on top of shaft and no speedy sleeve in the appropriate size (33.5 mm ?) so an estimate for $1,500 for full shaft and seal replacement (over half labour with power head and gear case removal). We went with using a "special" grease and re measure next service. At this price may be worth looking for a custom speedy sleeve size. |
Posted By: RC1
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 11:46pm
| Holy crap I've had these engines do 2000 hrs with out the powerhead being removed, why do they need a speedy sleeve, I think im too cheap or thats why im very busy, I charge around $500 including all normal service parts |
Posted By: Unclejake
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 12:23am
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By no means apples for apples - but our four cylinder F60 20 hour service was around $330 last week (Totally Marine in Rongatai, Wellington).
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Posted By: Fissure
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 8:08am
jeezuz Red, you should of took my $40
UJ, I assume you can take it there and still be under warranty?
Red, i saw your beast outside whilst I was there talking crap. they got some awesome screen shots of HDS-5 on the wall from ENL in 430m
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Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 1:09pm
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Yeah, could live with the service ....just, but a bit sus on the shaft wear and soln. Might have been related to its first 500 hours being beach lauched up at Apihara? (Ninty mile beach way)
May look arround next time. difficult getting bods with the diagnostic gear though and a pain towing through Wellytown in rush hour....in contrast Seaview not that bad to get to from Plimmerton.
Would use Scott in Raumati but he has no diagnostic gear for the Yammies.
RC you looking for a Welly holiday soon?
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Posted By: Unclejake
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 2:04pm
It is still operating perfectly, but you would expect a four month old motor to be pretty bloody perfect anyway.
Totally Marine are close to home which is the main reason we use them. Towing to and from Seaview is a PITA for us during the business day.
Redmx - which shaft is worn?
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Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 2:48pm
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Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 7:41pm
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The Main drive shaft #1 and the 2 oil seals ( Have taken this from the F150 electronic workshop manual). They indicated that there were wear marks where upper shaft oil seals went through.  |
Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 8:13pm
| It seems that it may not be an unknown occurance for Yamaha oil seals to 'eat into the shafts'. I personally know of a few different engines that have done so, and our mechanic also commented that it does not seem to be uncommon. Don't know just how common it really is, but is certainly not a one off occurance from what I have seen and heard. The other engines I have come across with similar problems have been F200's, and the problem seems to occur (if it is going to) between 600 and 900hrs. I have heard of one engine that was fixed at 600hrs and needs doing again at 1000hrs. It would be nice if Yamaha came to the party instead of leaving the owners to pay for the fixes, but I haven't heard of any good news in that department. It's a shame really because I am quite a fan of Yamaha engines, but this sort of stuff does make one think twice. Anyway, our mechanic fixed our leaking Yamaha by getting an after market seal that was slightly wider than the original Yamaha part so that it rides on a different part of the shaft. Works fine and saves a bunch of labour and materials. Ask your mech if that is a possibility in your case. |
Posted By: Unclejake
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 8:43pm
| Tagit, Red, - what do those seals seal? Water or oil and if oil what oil? gearbox? |
Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 9:00pm
| Not sure about Reds seals. The others I know of have been the seals around the oil pumps (on the crank shaft from memory) allowing oil to seap from the sump. The thought seems to be that the types of seals used are hard on the shafts and are wearing them too quickly. |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 10:20pm
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Yeah - not sure - Technical manual not much use if ya not that technical. Will leave that to RC and Kings to comment on. Thought it was to keep water out....but makes sense that it is oil....given it is an oil seal. Ok finally found it....it is the oil pump and #19 is the same seals from the powerhed view.  |
Posted By: red89mx
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 10:24pm
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RC and Kings Technical manual had the following codes for self diagnosis of the electrionic control system. Suggested using a light based diagnostic tool - part # YB06795. Are these the same codes that flash on the tachy insets of 2 or is that a separate diagniostic subsystem?  |
Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 20 May 2010 at 10:41pm
| I think those could be the same seals as the problem ones on the F200's. Be interesting to hear what the pros say. I did a little research after writing my earlier post and it might just be that Yamaha issued a service bulletin in the US and have been covering some of these oil seal problems even when out of warranty???? There was also some talk about a nasty corrosion issue in the exhaust systems of some models. We found that in our engine just beofre it caused a major failure, but I hadn't realised that it might be a common/known issue. Haven't heard about out of warranty cover like that in NZ, but ask your mechanic to check as it could be happening on the quiet (i.e. if you don't ask you won't get it)! I certainly haven't received a letter telling me to check my engine, but maybe they just recorded my address wrong huh! |