Yamaha trim and tilt.

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    Posted: 31 Oct 2021 at 10:05am
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Titanium
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My son has a 90hp 2 smoke Yammy, the trim works fine but when going down it is happy in the tilt part but as soon as it hits the trim pins it really loads up and draws high current. The motor really labours at that point.

Yamaha gurus?
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tjm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2021 at 4:02pm
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Dave The later model yams have check valves that can jam  which possibly could cause it to load up. Mine did it when it was new but it caused the motor to gradually drop while either on the water or on the trailer. Bleeding the tilt hydraulics fixed it
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kandrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2021 at 4:25pm
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Sounds to me like it might have burnt a winding on the armature, runs out of grunt when it comes under load and draws at lot.

Have you put a voltmeter across it or amp meter in line to check the draw.

I would let the pressure screw off and see if you can lift the motor up and down by hand reasonable freely and if that’s ok have a look at the motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2021 at 6:58pm
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Thanks for the replies guys,
I was wondering about the relief valve possibility. As we trimmed it all the way up this afternoon and it did the same when it ran out of travel, motor immediately laboured like hell, and the current doubled to 60 amps.
I even jammed a wood block in the way to stop the motor hitting the trim pins, and in damn near crushed the bit of 3x2 and loaded up which also suggested a relief valve issue.
Trimming up from right down, through the trim and tilt stages, it runs at 28 to 30 amps. This sounds reasonable when you look at the wiring and relay sizing.
I often hear a noise like a valve bleeding off when I have trimmed other motors down in the trim stage. I'm confident the motor is fine...for now..
It is normal for a motor of this type to draw large currents when loaded up. If it was faulty, it would stall.I have dealt with electric motors, ac and DC for most of my working life. But, it dosent mean I know everything..
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kandrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 7:26am
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Dave they are a permanent magnet motor, yes as with all motors they draw more under load but they will draw more than that if the armature is down a winding because it will be down on power as well.

As said above could be the relief valve and this will put more load on the motor as the pump will be trying to pump more.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tjm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 9:25am
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D.C armatures particularly in very small motors such as this usually wont develop enough torque to drive a load if there is a fault in the armature, shorts in the comm or shorted turns often result in the motor cogging, stalling and normally arcing at the brushes. Ive dealt with all kinds of motors over the last 40 years from tiny to the size of your house and if you get an electrical fault you also get a distinct burning smell, only electricians or armature windings with motor experience will know what im talking about. If its not old then worn brushes are unlikely and if its developing enough power to squeeze a block its unlikely to be the motor as you said Dave. But even when you have been in the game that long your not always right.Wink
Cant beat hunting and Fishing in N.Z
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote Kandrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 4:33pm
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Originally posted by tjm tjm wrote:

D.C armatures particularly in very small motors such as this usually wont develop enough torque to drive a load if there is a fault in the armature, shorts in the comm or shorted turns often result in the motor cogging, stalling and normally arcing at the brushes. Ive dealt with all kinds of motors over the last 40 years from tiny to the size of your house and if you get an electrical fault you also get a distinct burning smell, only electricians or armature windings with motor experience will know what im talking about. If its not old then worn brushes are unlikely and if its developing enough power to squeeze a block its unlikely to be the motor as you said Dave. But even when you have been in the game that long your not always right.Wink
I’ve been an auto electrician for over 40 years buddy so I understand a little bit about them.
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