I purchased a new Stabicraft 1450 late last year and have since put about 60 hrs on it up until a couple of weeks ago when I notice a puddle of water under it on a dry driveway after a trip out to Tiri. My worst fears were confirmed when undid the rear bung and watched in horror as gallons of water gush out. The hull had cracked. Right at the back by the last wobble roller. About 5 inches long.
I expected a quick weld up job under warranty after taking the boat to my local Stabicraft dealer. As it turns out the hull was only 3MM thick. Not 4MM. This was a real piss off.
Stabicraft have quietly updated there website last April as it was a 4mm hull that I thought I was buying. Little did I know the boat had been built way earlier.
There will probably be quite a few of these earlier models floating around with there owners blissfully un-aware there boat has a major design flaw.
They refused to replace the hull, or refund money. Instead The boat is to be de-rigged. Floor and 4mm hull plates to be trucked up from down south and welded in by local engineering firm at Silverdale. New U-Dek to be reapplied and boat re-rigged.
This was the best of two options to fix my boat. The other option was to leave 3mm hull in place and re-weld a new 4mm hull skin over top.
Thats right. A finished thickness of 7mm on a 4.5m boat powered with a 50 hp engine.
Would certainly trigger a few questions when it comes time to sell.
Im just putting this out there to alert any owners.... or potential buyers to check the thickness of the hull plate. If its 3mm It has potential to fail.... otherwise they would not of upgraded to 4mm. Why the hell they designed it in the first place is mind boggling. These boats are touted as a hardcore Southern ocean adventure machine. Mine failed in the Hauraki Gulf with my son on board.
Also while I'm in winge mode check your trailer coupling if its a DMW trailer. My coupling could be pulled on and off the tow bar with bugger all effort. The pin that holds the leaver down had the roll pin inserted incorrectly resulting in the pin sliding open while towing and the trailer potentially uncoupling on a bump - Which is exactly what happened to me last summer on the Thames Coast Road.
Thankfully the safety chain kept the boat connected- But my Tailgate and Hardlid on truck were completely destroyed by trailer drawbar when I breaked.
Naturally everyone involved in the manufacturing of trailer did exactly nothing after talking the big game- and Im still out of pocket over $600 for the cost of excess from my insurance company. Plus a new coupling and trailer plug and wiring.
Sincerely hope none of this happens to other owners.... But I suspect it will.