Rod building tips and questions

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 12:09am
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cut down my livefibre today to 7'8 and got the guides spaced out. happy with that. As a general rule the guides should be in more or less the right place as long as there are no significant angles in the nylon when it is loaded up through them?

Just waiting on parcel to arrive to start binding... pics to come...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Red Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 7:22am
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I gather it is a spin rod , if so you need to glue your grips, reel seat , butt cap and tip on ,  have you rod so it is at 45 degree , here is a starting point it is only a  [starting point ]  tip to first guide , 150 mm 160 mm 180 mm 210 mm 290 mm 420 mm , tape guides on place reel on and run line through the guides  now tie a line off tip and have a weight off it that puts a curve in the rod , grab line from reel and pull , not to hard , just enough that there is no sag in the line , you are looking to have a nice curve of line that follows the blank , you will have to move guides till you get what you want , it is called a static test , hope this helps .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote M@CC@ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 12:41pm
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"Mudhole cover almost everything but they will piss you off at some stage" What are the issues people have had with mudhole??
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 12:55pm
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Its will be for overhead, lbg for kings. But I have stray liners to set up to and I will do the static test on these! I am happy with the way the line follows the blank, so will just stick with what I have.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Skipjack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 1:35pm
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Mudhole, you get $30 US of stuff they stick it in a fedex box and charge you $40 US to send it to NZ. Other than that have been pretty good.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 6:22pm
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I brought 4oz glue, 4oz wrap finish, 1oz thread preserver, some tools and about 10 rolls of thread which all up came to about 75US. They only charged me 17US for shipping and all up it cost me about $105NZ. Pretty good. The only problem I have is that there was 3x threads they were out of stock of. So they sent the package and then said they will send out the other stuff when it arrives, much to my expence! So told them to flag that and I'll put an order in at a later date. I have some threads and guides to buy, anyone want the same and willing to split shipping???
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 10:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 10:15pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 10:16pm
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Spaced them, seems to run nicely along the backbone. Keen to put this bad boy together!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Red Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 10:31pm
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Looking real good mate , a tip for you , when your order from mud hole tell them in the comments part not to back order , send what they have , also if you are interested in Alps guides I can help  .or any Alps product .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2011 at 10:44pm
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Sweet man, I was looking into getting one of those heavy duty alps seats, they look like the ticket. Alps are nice but i couldn't find many sites that sell em. So decided to go back to the basics.

Will make sure I make a note, or at least if they could offer me other colours ect.

Has anyone used that pro-wrap? How have people found the rod smith threads? what is the best? I have hearb gudebrod is the ticket but it is very very hard to find these days due to ceased production.

What threads should I be looking to stay away from?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2011 at 2:43pm
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Gudebrod are back but only doing limited stuff, although RA Conaghan aren't going to be bringing it in. The Pro Wrap is good, I've been using it for a while now and not had any probs. Rod smith is okay too but some of the colours needed a bit more CP than I would with other threads, and a couple of the metalics had so much twist it was a pain in the backside.
If anyone is interested I'm swapping out one of the motors on my drying racks for a 30rpm so if anyone is after a 6rpm motor let us know and you can have it for the cost of shipping.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote camdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2011 at 6:21pm
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good to see your getting stuck in tom. when should i put my order in for my fully rollered 10kg game rod?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tomatron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2011 at 9:33pm
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Haha. Got my hand full at the moment man. Trying to fund for a couple more blanks and some guides! Eek, could be costly!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Stefan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2011 at 2:18pm
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Can anyone tell me if you need colour preserver for metallic thread? Am looking at using it (size A) as underbind with NCP as the guide wrap.

And yes I am a complete novice to this.... LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Red Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2011 at 2:37pm
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No mate not on Metallic , remember , no question is to silly ,
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2011 at 4:39pm
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You don't need it but if your doing an inlay with a metalic and a raw thread that you need to use CP with it wont hurt at all.
 
edit: the drying motor is gone too guys, cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2011 at 5:05pm
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I dunno but maybe some here might find this interesting...
In terms of what CP is actually good at, perserving a threads colour. When putting bright thread over a dark blank, even when using NCP thread, the dark blank can still creep through the bight or light thread.

In all three of these pics you'll see the left side of the bind is plain NCP yellow thread over the top of a nude graphit blank. On the left side of the spiral inlay I've split the right side into half again. The half closest to the inlay has 2 coats of CP the outside has 1 coat.
 
This first pic is A thread, the pics don't quite do it justice but the left side looks very dull in life (plus theres a dried bit of CP scum in it before I pulled it off)
 
 
These next two are both C thread with different ratios of epoxy and thinners, again in life there is a lot more difference than you can see in these pics but there is a lot.
Again you'll have to look closely but the difference is there and the inner part of the right side gives much better colour. The other difference is that the last pic has two c threads as inlay the top two have one metalic A and an ncp C thread inlay. There is a much higher consentration of thinners in the top two pics than the bottom pic. The higher the thinners the more transapent the thread can go, even with some NCP threads.
 
 
The a thread looks horrible so there sometimes a C or D thread is still the go for underbinds
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Red Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2011 at 8:17pm
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Here are some photos of a full metallic underbind , the thread is Sulky silver metallic in copper , silver  and black , being a flat thread it lays down very well  with the right  tension and speed you will get no gaps , but, and there is a but , it takes abit of getting used to but the results are great .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mrbig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2011 at 8:34pm
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That looks awesome mate, i was wondering about trying that metallic under-bind will defiantly give it a go now.
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