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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bigfishbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 9:18am
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Originally posted by Red Hunter Red Hunter wrote:

I don't put finish on the base wrap , it is another of those things , it has been debated many times , I for one can not see the advantage  , the thread holds the guide to the blank , I don't see how putting finish on the base helps , as you are then going to add finish on top , so you have created another layer , so you will then be finishing on top , as I see it , it would be the same as not finishing the base ,  I have in practice tried both and then cut them off , and sorry I can't see the differance ,  Ben2012 sorry mate you have to use rod finish , any of the glues from hardwhare stores are to brittle , they will work but not for long .
 
+1
 
WRT quick and drity rod repairs, I have been known to use 5minute crystal clear epoxy to seal threads if I have to do a repair quickly. It works and seems to last. I certainly wouldn't consider doing a whole rod with it.
www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ben2012 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 10:23am
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Cheers, So next question.... Where do I get the rod building epoxy? and can someone recommend a brand. I'd prefer to get it from a NZ site if possible. Also can I use superglue to tack the guides in place, or is there a special glue I need for this as well???
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote gtrbaby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 11:49am
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best finishing epoxy i have used lately is prokote - you can get it from Steve at nzflyshop.co.nz  I think thats the website....
 
you can tack your guides on with superglue if you want to - thin masking tape is better to hold them on with - once you wrap up the foot you can take it off..... if you glue them and get the placement wrong youu'll end up with glue on the blank in weird places
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ben2012 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 2:07pm
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Cheers, I've ordered some prokote from Steve. I'll go with the masking tape instead of glue to hold them down too. Can the prokote be used to glue the eye at the tip?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote gtrbaby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 3:03pm
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nah not really on the tip top - better to use tip top hot melt glue
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MarkE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 3:04pm
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Check this page out - http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building-101/Videos lots of good info on wrapping and finishing guides.
Prokote (and all other rod finishing epoxies) are designed to seal threads only, you'll need to use an epoxy glue for anything that needs a solid bonding ie reel seat/grips...
In saying that, 5 minute araldite is fine for the tip top though.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote green guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 3:29pm
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wouldent use hot melt glue on the tip it is crap use ados 2 part epoxy if u need to remove the guide just heat it up and it will come off the hot melt can turn to poos when it gets hit with the sun
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote gtrbaby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 4:48pm
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Originally posted by green guy green guy wrote:

wouldent use hot melt glue on the tip it is crap use ados 2 part epoxy if u need to remove the guide just heat it up and it will come off the hot melt can turn to poos when it gets hit with the sun
 
I've used the fuji hot melt for years and only once a customer had a problem when he left his rod in a car  that got F*ing hot....  I usually wrap slightly up onto the tip top and use finishing epoxy over it - so that may help out
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bigfishbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2012 at 8:14am
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5 minute epoxy for tip tops.
 
Masking tape is good for holding guides on prior to binding. However, I recently used the smallest cable ties for holding guides on for checking placement and they worked better than anything.
www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Blue Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2012 at 7:58pm
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ok guys question time......

a blank has turned up a JM 250 I have all the guides etc all Alps stuff bar the reel seat which is fuji, ok so questions, [will be a few over the coming days etc so please put up with me]

shall I under bind all the rings???? if not why not and if yes why, 

now if I do then do I epoxy them prior to the eyes going on or do it all in one hit.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote green guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2012 at 8:33am
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Yea underbine all your rods for now
Any thing that is gona get heavy use needs to be underbined other wise ya guides will scratch and bend into the blank
And glue the underbinds first other wise u will end up with bloby glue guides make sure ya guides are flat and ground so the wrap slides up nice onto the guides will save u hours of mucking around
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Jwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2012 at 10:57pm
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Any one tried using spar varnish for a binding finish, stumbled over the link below looking for info. Sounds like a finishing option (maybe cheaper than flexcote or similar) anyone here had any experience with it?
Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Blue Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2012 at 7:25pm
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guys who has brought gear like rod wrappers etc in from the states and who did you use, I am looking at gear from mud hole, is the cost worth the effort
wanting a power wrapper cottons eyes and a few other bits and pieces.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MarkE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2012 at 8:35pm
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I used Mudhole for my Power Wrapper -  You'll need to figure shipping plus taxes but its a one off purchase that'll last a lifetime.
Sea Strike 18' Centre Console - Under Construction....Build Thread here
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Blue Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2012 at 8:46pm
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cheers Mark, what wrapper did you get and does it do the job ok and if you want pm me the cost or on here up to you.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MarkE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2012 at 10:21pm
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I got the "Power Wrapper + Deluxe Chuck Combo (220v)" - shipping was $100 usd extra. I was unlucky and got stung GST, you might get lucky though :)
What ever one you decide on make sure you upgrade to a metal chuck - the plastic ones wont last very long. Oh, and you need to make sure you get the 220v option and not the standard US 110v...
Sea Strike 18' Centre Console - Under Construction....Build Thread here
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Blue Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2012 at 6:07pm
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guys what are you using to ream out the rod grips, put it this way what is the best tool to use. Or does anyone have a Peter file LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bigfishbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2012 at 6:37pm
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Hmmmm, what's the sizes difference between your grips and your blank BA? The grips will stretch quite nicely. Use Ados for gluing your grips and use plenty of it. It actually acts as a lubricant and you can leave your peter file aloneWink
www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Blue Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2012 at 6:43pm
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lol thanks BFB yeah 19mm inside but have to go out to about 23 maybe more, new set of blanks arrived today and same problem [for me any way] trouble with putting on the glue is I need to still move it about 30 inches.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Red Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2012 at 8:34pm
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Glue inside your grip and blank , hold the grip at the top and middle , then slide on down , with 4 mm diff  it will slide on easy .
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