construction materials
Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=90415
Printed Date: 07 Nov 2026 at 9:09am
Topic: construction materials
Posted By: pjc
Subject: construction materials
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 1:43pm
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What do people favour for their vessel or would not use? I perrsonnelly like wood,if you happen to hit a rock,depending on hole size,easy fix at sea floorboard screws.wooden boats require more maintaince paint etc fibreglass,easy to wash down ,leave outside,gelcoat starts dulling cut n polish,hole them a bit more to repair not easy at sea? ali,open to corrosin,french do not paint ali boats apprantly the oxidise protects them better,how do you fix a hole steel,rusts needs more maintaince,easy fix with a welder concrete do not go there,heard of a boat that hit a reef in the island when they come back to salvage it,all that was left basicaly chicken wire trees are made above the ground everything else comes out below the ground
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Replies:
Posted By: Time_Bandit
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 6:45pm
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wood rots and is high maintenance compare to alloy and glass ------------- “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 6:50pm
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ever seen 50,80or 100 yr old fiberglass boat or alloy how would you repair 1 at sea if it got punctured?
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Posted By: MarkE
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 6:57pm
Fibreglass and alloy are 'modern' materials - of course youre not going to see a 50-100yo boat. ------------- Sea Strike 18' Centre Console - Under Construction.... http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/sea-strike-18-build-thread_topic87723_page1.html" rel="nofollow - Build Thread here |
pjc wrote:Posted By: tjm
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 7:00pm
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Alloy, strong relatively light, which transmits into cheaper running costs ie fuel, easy to clean and with modern coatings, corrosion resistance. Glass boats still nice looking, quieter and ride better in the rough but with rising fuel costs expensive to tow the larger sizes and also require larger motors to drive them. In the end every one to their own , all have their plusses and minuses, just lucky to be able to own any of them really ------------- Cant beat hunting and Fishing in N.Z |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 7:01pm
| fiberglass has been around since 1960s,there were a few german boats built but delaminated when they hit the tropics.(yachts)alloy has been around late 60s early 70s |
Posted By: MarkE
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 7:05pm
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But they weren't common boatbuilding materials then. Fibreglass and alloy boats are common place these days and im sure many will still be around in 50yrs time. ------------- Sea Strike 18' Centre Console - Under Construction.... http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/sea-strike-18-build-thread_topic87723_page1.html" rel="nofollow - Build Thread here |
Posted By: muchalls
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 7:05pm
| So, show me a centre console 5m wooden boat, please |
Posted By: Time_Bandit
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 7:09pm
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if we are talking about 2013 timber would be on the bottom of the list for construction materials, your asking the question "What do people favour for their vessel or would not use?" yet anyone that doesn't have anything goood to say about timber you attack? im a qualified boatbuilder and i have seen it time and time again with rotten timber boats ------------- “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 7:17pm
| thinking about a new boat,what are the pros n cons of modern materials,old boatbuilders will tell you kauri timber widely used was not the best timber but most easliy access. |
Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 6:55am
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ply is great for home builders. and if cared for will give you good service for your money. i've seen quite a few alloy boats from the 60's and 70's still being used in the lakes back home. but i think they are babied due to their collector's value. same goes with fibreglass.
not many boat builders using wood for new builds these days.
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Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 7:03am
| wanting a new boat but my problem is.is it going to last 10+ 20yrs,not the motor but the hull? |
Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 9:04am
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thick plate alloy hull, sealed deck, don't leave hooks or bits of squid in nooks and cranny's. don't see why it wouldn't last twice that. the US navy describes marine alloy as "all but inert in seawater".
alloy would be my pick for longevity.
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Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 9:14am
| thanks will go to boat show this year and see if i can get some answers,3 shops been to so far like to evade questions on life and what if salt water lays in pontoons as you never remove all even though you think you have,tending towards alloy due to i like fishing in amongst rocks at times,you know when everyone else is charging about the fish like a refuge. |
Posted By: cirrus
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 9:51am
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think i would go alloy over others. Back in the day had kauri clinker with thin fibre glass layer over that.Great boat ,very heavy,& dont think you would find similar today ,except websites selling vintage boats. I have alloy. Alloy can probably take more knocking around than glass.Ie that knock on a concrete ramp when its choppy. Yes alloy can corrode if neglected. Plenty of fresh water the answer. Things like old hooks ,swivels ,sand ,mud containing heavy metals, old bait left lying around even ,rainwater with decaying leaves can start up the telltale black spots showing corrosion starting up. But this can be avoided with care |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:13am
| had a look at dna thread,yes alloy seems the go,now is it to be pontoon or not,tagit put in some good points on stability and other members on saftey aspect.interesting experience in your glass boat? |
Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:19am
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For durability probably glass over alloy. Alloy is not 'inert' in our typical everyday usage and there are lots of stories about corrosion issues. If you do get corrosion the boat can be very expensive (even uneconomic) to repair. Many alloy welds will also eventually start to crack. Glass is truly inert, and a well built solid glass hull will last a long time, as well as being relatively simple to repair. Both however will usually outlast any one or two terms of ownership, although alloy corrosion can happen very quickly in the wrong circumstances. Some older glass boat have suffered from delamination type issues where the hull flexes a lot. Not sure of more modern ones will do the same as they age. Timber if properly maintained is a permanent material. The trouble is that it needs to stay free of fresh water. If you have a timber boat built from quality materials and well sheathed in glass it can build a very good boat that will last a life time. It can also be lighter than glass, but much quieter and better looking than alloy. Trouble is that it is too expensive building timber production boats and hence we don't see them. The biggest downside of timber is that you must be very careful with any penetrations (screw, bolts, fittings etc) to ensure that water can not weep into the timber. There are standard ways of doing this, and if done up front there should never be a problem. Personally I like timber for the mix of finish and lightness you can achieve, plus the ease of fixing, but it is the build type that requires the most owner care to maintain. Look after a good timber boat and it will outlive you.
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Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:27am
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With alloy, I don't like its rough stained appearance. Can be improved by painting, but this doesn't appear to last very well, before salt gets underneath. I worry about the hidden places, under the battery, tote tank etc, where I imagine corrosion could get going. I agree with Cirrus, that plenty fresh water, everywhere in nooks and crannies, is important - and I add Saltaway, that appears to help remove salt. In my small 4.1m boat, I would hate fibreglass, because of damage from....the trailer, the boat ramp. the beach, rocks when in shallow, alongside a jetty. Fibreglass has captured virtually the whole of the larger launch market - which surprises me, as its prone to damage, and the stress this causes (eg when docking), appears to be major. I guess its popular because the flash appearance is paramount with launches. If I could afford a bigger boat (8-10m say), it would be alloy, with a quality paint job. Wood - I assume is mostly not used much now because its prone to damage, doesn't look as good as fibreglass, and rots more than alloy and fibreglass. |
Posted By: matto
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:29am
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Polyethylene - seriously good stuff for boats - look at what most Kayaks are made of and why. ------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: ReelAppealLures
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:43am
Take a peek at the boat MarkE is building... ------------- http://www.facebook.com/pages/Reel-Appeal-Lures/300309486704362 |
Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 11:18am
I would not own a large alloy boat that lived on the water. Only got to look at how many end up getting major corrosion problems to put you off. Glass is actually less maintenance. Wood is not used as it is not suitable/cost effective for production boats. Takes too much skill and labour, as well as being expensive as a material. What you will find however is that many high end custom built boats are still made in timber with glass sheathing. Cold moulded (double diagonal type) hulls have a very strong following around the world. As I mentioned before they give a lighter build than glass, tougher(IMO) than cored glass, and without the hidden corrosion issues that can affect alloy boats that live on the water. For me the practical choice for ~10m+ boats that live on the water is between cored glass and timber. Solid glass is heavy and needs larger engines using more fuel. Cored glass is fine when well done, but generally not as tough as good timber. Weight probably slightly favours cored glass, but not enough to ignore the benefits of timber.
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Posted By: Don18025
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 11:47am
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PJC, you do not identify what size boat or what you are using for. I favour wood for one off craft. Still natures best material for that special boat and the problems with rot are a hull management issue not a building issue. I really like that new cc hull Mark E is building, the Seastrike 18. good on him, he will have something unique. Another thread worth viewing is the wooden boat that Segador built and caught a marlin on the maiden voyage to Whitianga! Great stuff. For mass produced hulls my first choice will be fibreglass composite hulls. They are strong and last extremely well. Also the best option for a moored hull ahead of alloy. For a trailer boat for NZ coastal fishing and diving I would have to look at alloy. I have seen some corrosion nightmares though caused by dissimilar metals. But for trailer boating and easy towing they have a lot in their favour. Alloy are also very good for freshwater, where corrosion issues are not a problem, just to noisy for catching trout. I admit I built and own a 9.4 metre wooden launch, which is a one off design, not mass produced and sits on a mooring to often, but does not corrode or suffer from the pox. But I feel that my final choice is going to be determined by the boating I plan to do and my means to fund it. There is a suitable material for everybody. |
Posted By: Blue Asparagus
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 11:53am
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wood not used now good grief wake up guys, most boats are constructed of wood and glassed over if not wood then foam or balsa sandwich etc, wood is no good what a croc of sht. yes wood rots but I did not see the boat builder saying that glass gets osmosis nor did I see him say anything about metal fatigue or electrolysis. My boat is wood built in 77 and yes it had some rot, where the fresh water made entry no where else. A simple fix for a boat builder yes wood is easy to work on and so is glass but wood is no good to use good grief. I have owned both glass and wooden boats, I like the wood but for looking nice sitting on a marina glass it would be......not
------------- Ultimate GAME Fishing Adventures. Northland |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 2:07pm
| the boat i want is to be practicle without all the bells and whistles,simple nothing complicated,20ft,desenant fishing platform ,be able to make a coffee out of rain,easily driven hull that does not need 200hp and throw spray everywhere,geez at this rate might as well settle for old 25ft on a mooring and chug along at 8knts.will wait till after boat show,someone somewhere will have an idea of a parcticle boat,my 16ft at the moment has no rot lives in a shed but starting to out grow,2adults and 2 teenagers |
Posted By: kiwiboy_
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 2:27pm
from a boatbuilders perspective ....
take all the materials you think you mite use to build....
throw them in the water....
which ever one floats????!!!! Build it out of that!!!! ------------- You gotta be in the right place at the right time |
Posted By: Barrie
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 2:34pm
so a sponge would be OK   |
Posted By: cirrus
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 2:43pm
"Alloy corrosion can happen very quickly in the wrong circumstances" What are those circumstances--? Have alloy boat. |
Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 2:53pm
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Something metal (hook, sinker, swivel etc) dropped into a wet bilge and not found. Pencil line drawn on the alloy during construction (that one was a surprise). Poor quality alloy, or bad batch. Enclosed areas permanently wet with salt water. Dissimilar metals used in fittings. Bad electrical wiring. Bad anode setup. Probably plenty more, but those of the ones I have seen or personally experienced. I like alloy trailer boats for lots of reasons, but keeping a big one in the water for a 30+ year life span etc is not something that I would want to do myself.
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Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 3:08pm
| if it was feasible,would a s/s boat be the answer,forget about weight just longativety of life |
Posted By: cirrus
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 3:46pm
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Thanks Tagit. Know all about hooks sinkers etc. But pencil lines.Of course some contain lead.Its a mine field this boat thing. |
Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 3:56pm
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I wonder what big alloy yacht builders do to avoid corrosion. Any experts know? Another question I have - I saw a DC3 plane, from the 1940's, looked pristine, the aluminium sheathing shiny; nothing like the corroding stuff boats are made of. How come? |
Posted By: cirrus
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 3:59pm
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just trying to remove pencil lines o alloy where i put outline for boat name.Man are they hard to move. |
Posted By: Titahi
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 4:23pm
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That DC3 would have been like grand dads axe... 4 new handles 2 new heads over its life time, but still referred to as Grand dads ole axe
Loose a AA duracell battery in the bilge of a Aluminium boat, sounds hard to do. But kids playing with the emergency torch, etc and the result can be catastropic ------------- "I love standing by the ocean and just knowing what its for" |
Posted By: Don18025
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 4:24pm
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One good thing about allow boats is that they are simple to recycle. Your local scrap metal merchant can deal with them, so you never see really old alloy boats. There are lot of old glass boats still around. No one has mentioned ferro cement! I apologise I mentioned it. Letsgetem, old pristine aircraft in shiny metal finish are extremely well looked after. That skin may have been replaced many times, all the interior surfaces have been coated with anticorrosion paint that is removed completely at major airframe overhauls. They use specially made alloy skins designed to resist corrosion. Aircraft skins are fastened with rivets (DC3) or glue and are not welded. Aircraft operate in a dry freshwater based atmosphere (except seaplanes) so are not exposed to the same electrolyte as salt water. |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 8:47pm
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alloy boats like pontoon type with welds,do they get stress cracks from being rigid?rivited allows movement but subject to leaking i presume?have been to a stabicraft dealer this afternoon and ask about water lying in pontoons.interesting he said how can water get in,its weld at that point gathered family up and walked away.wife is keen on the idea of light weight boat but she is concerned with the shape of bow being relitivily blunt.do they ride over a sea or plow on through like a tug boat,guess it all depends on hp? did look at a fyran but concern was the matting lining the hull. will i get sensible answer at the boat show?
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Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:12pm
| theres also poly boats to consider. no corrosion, gelcoat fade, or rot to worry about. easy to repair. |
Posted By: sr2
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:57pm
Have to say my 4.50 Polycraft Bowrider, (Tupperware!) is one hell of a user friendly fishing machine. Sure it ain't pretty; but it has the sort of flotation that makes a Stabi feel unstable. It's designed in Aussi to cross bars, (the poor ******* don't have the Hauraki Gulf) so it takes anything we can throw at it and the only downside is that it makes you a sloppy skipper, (driving it up boat ramps, tying up to rocks, beaching anywhere,....etc.). Clean up takes 10 min with a water blaster and most scrapes are fixed with a hot air gun. Up to 16 feet they are a great option. |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 8:35am
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Posted By: Time_Bandit
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 8:43am
Why don't you google it rather than expecting everyone else to do the work for you ? ------------- “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” |
Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 9:15am
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not far from you pjc. i've had a mac boat and would own one again. but there are some other poly boats that i'd look at as well. problems with platic is it scratches easy. you can hit it with a hammer and not make a mark, but personally i wouldn't beach launch alot. heavy as well in the smaller sizes, they aparently need a minimum thickness to be rigid. but overall i wouldn't overlook this material for smaller trailer boats. |
Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 9:17am
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cryers road in east tamaki,
http://www.macboats.co.nz/contact-us" rel="nofollow - http://www.macboats.co.nz/contact-us
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Posted By: matto
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 5:19pm
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Rotational moulded polyethylene, Smartwave nz made by Rangiora Plastics. The sheet material which is ultra high molecular weight is awesome - there is a crowd building a longboat style from it . It fusion welds with no stresses, uv and corrosion stable, super strong and recycleable s 
------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: Betty Boop
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 5:35pm
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I'm biased and sware by glassfibre as I've been in the industry for 25yrs.My Viscount is 1973(40yrs old) and is heavy and sound. It goes almost everywhere comfortably. A few easy to fix gelcoat chips. Vented boyancy chambers so it can be kept free of condensation and mould etc. Alloy is good for differing reasons so think of the purpose and ease of maintenance and the cost /ease of repair  ......cheers------------- Last week I joined an Anti-Social support group........They won't talk to me! Papamoa fi-Glass Viscount |
Posted By: Durban
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 5:48pm
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irrespective what materials used for construction it is its very important to know how the transom is fabricated as i know silicone is used for motor bolt holes , we drill the holes apply silicone buy the time you push the bolts through the silicone comes out the other side , fair enough we can seal off the inside of the transom , the problem is the water gets in from the outside into the transom were the bolts go through the transom brackets , its no wonder on some boats the wood rots in the transom , i did mention some time back how this can be avoided . on ally boats i would think that welding tubes in the transom on both sides for bolts to go through will solve water getting in the transom & this applies to all transoms is to seal the bolt holes up prior to fitting the motor |
Posted By: Thirstyhustler
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 7:39pm
The trick for sealing of bolt holes no matter what size is to have a bevel around the hole (on smaller hole a touch with a countersink bit will do it and sandpaper on larger holes make sure timber is resealed/coated with epoxy resin (polyester will work) then silicone or polyurethane sealant the bevel will then allow the sealant to form an O-ring under the washer or base plate and prevent it from leaking. Wood will last forever and is a great medium for the home builder with modern ply construction and even cnc routering of bulkheads and panels if you want to spend a bit more. The only reason that wood doesn't last is if it is not maintained which goes for anything on any type of boat if its not maintained it will break or degrade I chose a GRP boat because I was trained as an apprentice in building, maintaining and repairing them so i can fix it my self. Im sure someone who can weld ali would be more than happy repairing an ali boat. The thread on the sea strike 18 is an awesome example of modern diy boatbuilding and will work out to be an economical new boat that will last the owner for years especially as it is coated in glass and resin
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Posted By: otdrmn
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 7:11pm
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Polycraft $4435au ex factory, you gotta pay for shipping from Bundaberg to Brisbane port then across the ditch. This is for a bare boat - drifter 4.5. you also have to organise the shipping, insurance etc. This from polycraft. G ------------- The 4 R's ~ Rods, Reels, Rifles, Rooting |