Recently returned from a week in Vava'u. It's one of those bucket-list items for anyone who thinks water related activities, great tropical weather and excellent local hospitality are ingredients for a memorable holiday.

 

The flight time from New Zealand is a very reasonable 3 hours with a further 55minute flight on to Vava’u. My daughter, Lana and I arrived in Nuku'alofa and had a couple of hours to kill before we caught the flight to Vava’u which while adding a chunk to our travelling time, passed quickly as we still had plenty to catch up on. A very pleasant 23degrees was a warm & welcome respite from the wintery weather we’d been subjected to over the previous few weeks.

 

Hakula Lodge
People are friendly in Tonga and are very welcoming. Nothing’s a problem and our first stop was with Jeff and Janine at Hakula Lodge. We were met at the airport and after a short drive, stopped off at the market on the way to our accommodation.

 

 

With some fresh fruit & veg for dinner including a massive watermelon, we set off for Hakula lodge which is situated on Fatafehi road.

 

 

 

Hakula Lodge overlooks  the crystal clear harbour, is comfortable and reasonably priced. That evening we dined on freshly caught mahimahi and very much enjoyed the company of Jeff and Janine who have some great stories to tell about the area.

 

 

The SE trades had been forecast to kick in during the first few days of our adventure and the forecast was bang on which certainly limited our fishing options. The trip for the day was to travel to each of the three FAD’s  - North, Middle and South and  see if we could find a marlin and try the FADs for a mahimahi while we were there.

 

 

On the marlin front we went 1/0/0 but had a great time catching mahimahi on 4 and 6kg at the middle FAD a bit later in the day. Ki’i, Jeff’s crewman, runs the deck efficiently and is a good laugh so it was an enjoyable day on the water

 

Ika Lahi Lodge
That evening we were delivered safely to Ika Lahi lodge and spent the next 21/2 days with Steve and Caroline in their little touch of paradise.

 

The photos tell the story but suffice it to say the company was excellent and the food sensational. The first night was mahimahi on a bed of wild rice and the gourmet food was a real highlight thanks to Caroline!

 

Sunday was relaxing day as per local custom and it was great to just chill with Steve and Caroline in such a magic spot.

 

 

The fishing had been hot earlier in the week however the wind was still up and unfortunately we couldn’t get to the South Bank where all the action had been. While we were restricted to keeping quite close inshore to maintain a reasonable level of comfort we had a couple of bites including a small blue that hooked up briefly but fell off.

 

 

Spending a day or two with Steve was enlightening  - he’s kept the most detailed fishing diary you could imagine. Every strike, hook-up and capture is duly noted but not only that, location, lure placement, type, hook rig, time, tide etc for each strike. What Steve now has is the most amazing catch history and quantitative evidence on what works and what doesn’t.

 

 

Get Steve into a conversation about stiff or swinging single hook rigs and he’ll tell you exactly why he uses what he uses and then provide the stats to support it.  Soon to be published is his book on blue marlin fishing and he certainly can talk about the subject with some authority.

 

Steve has a solid track record with an average of 126 blue marlin per season over 85 days fishing (or 1.5 blues caught per day). He also has 168 line-class club and national records including 44 all tackle records as captain. One of the great things about Ika Lahi is within ~5 minutes of leaving the mooring outside the lodge you’re fishing in 200+m of water and in blue marlin country.

 

 

Mystic Sands
Steve dropped us in town and were met by Kjell who took us to Mystic Sands for the night. The accommodation was a large twin room with open plan living and great harbour views.

 

For a little extra, Mosse from the local village will cook you dinner or breakfast or you can always wander along to the Tongan Beach resort for a meal or drinks, it’s next door. A Taxi into town is ~20 pa’anga and there’s plenty of good places to eat. If you’re not used to farmyard noises then a set of ear-plugs might be a plan – there’s lots of roosters and chooks around the area and the roosters will keep you awake if you’re not used to it.

 

Whale Watching with Dolphin Dive
The original plan had been to have a days diving but on advice we switched to a day of swimming with the humpback whales. Damn those things are big when you get in the water!

 

We spotted a cow and calf early on in the trip and had three sessions in the water with an inquisitive calf and her mum. One of the coolest in-water experiences I’ve had and something I’d say is a ‘must-do’ if you’re in Vava’u while the whales are there ~ July-November.

 

Later, we stopped at Mariners cave which is a neat experience too. The cave is a sealed air-pocket and it’s a relatively easy snorkel to dive down and swim the few metres underwater to surface in the cave. Sounds all a bit spooky but the light is surreal and probably unlike anything you’ve experienced before.

 

Tongan Beach Resort
Helen and Shane run the Tongan Beach resort and are in the process of some significant upgrades to the facilities including a swimming pool close to the water’s edge.

 

 

The food was excellent with a good selection of dishes and similar pricing to any midrange restaurant with a main around the NZ$25-$28 mark. The rooms are close to the water, very comfortable and the staff extremely attentive.

 

Helen and Shane are Kiwis and excellent hosts who enjoy spending time and entertaining their guests and have very exciting plans for development of the facilities and services at the resort.

 

Target one. 5 strikes 5/2/1
Thursday was a day on Target One with Henk and crewman, Te’au. When we got on board ‘Target One’, Henk duly informed us that today was the day we were going to get Lana her first marlin. We set off with high hopes but while we no idea at that point it was going to be a long day, thankfully the wind had buttoned right back to a light breeze and it was pleasantly calm.

 

Out of the entrance and down to the Southern Bank was the trip plan and although we had a couple of strikes near the bank nothing stuck. There was enough action to keep us alert and focused however. Along the way we saw whales leaping around the ocean and then a smallish blue grabbed the starboard rigger and came charging up the port side at full noise.

 

For a split second I was in two minds about banging off some amazing pics or giving Te’au a hand with clearing the gear as it had jumped over the shotgun and the port rigger lines. The gear was cleared and we settled into the fight.

 

 

After 20 minutes the blue earned it’s freedom when the hook pulled but at least Lana had now experienced the adrenalin rush of a hook-up and the amazing spectacle of the  action that followed. I was hopeful that now she understood what I’d been going on about for all the years! Another strike followed but no cigar and we were almost back at the harbour entrance and it was 4.30pm. Henk looked at me and with the briefest of smiles pulled a long left turn out towards the middle FAD. He was going to give it one last shot…..

 

The trip to the FAD and around it a couple of times was uneventful but it was on the way back that all hell broke loose. The reel screamed and a large hole appeared where there was a lure moments before. The blue just smashed it’s head from side to side and then proceeded to run 600m or more before we were under control. The fight began in earnest and I was very proud of the way Lana got stuck in and did what needed to be done. 

 

In an hour and 40 we had the blue alongside and the decision was made to keep the fish as it was completely knackered and none of it would be wasted. The scales at the Tongan Beach later told the story of a 214kg blue – not a bad effort for your first marlin and in Lana’s words, “the toughest thing I’ve ever done”. 11/10 to Henk for going the extra mile(s)!

 

 

On the last day I joined Kurt on his Boston Whaler for a day of popping for GT’s.

 

 

The day was a cracker – virtually no wind and I was very excited about our prospects as a GT was on my ‘to do’ list and as Kurt said, ”It’s pretty unusual not to get one…….”

 

We fished a number of spots and it was great talking to Kurt about the fishery and techniques. I learnt heaps as I haven’t done a lot of top-water stuff but that’s going to change. I had bought a few Poppers up for Kurt from Sam at Reel Appeal lures and I had been loaned a Daiwa Saltiga 6500 on a monster mesh popper rod which was silky smooth and could really get some serious distance.

 

 

 The first bit of action was a reasonable GT with poor eyesight and it savagely attacked but totally missed my popper. The next one seemed like a horse to me and it exploded out of the water with my popper in it’s mouth but cleverly avoided the middle Owner treble and 8/0 Jobu on the tail. Bugger – very cool seeing it suspended in mid air for a moment though and I was certainly good for another couple of hundred casts just to see that again.

 

A cast over another bait school (Kurt’s trained eye could spot the bait schools from miles away) resulted in an almighty splash and a solid hook-up. In reasonably short order a 10kg GT was released after a couple of pics and to hopefully grow to monster size for another day.

 

 

As there was only the two of us, Kurt was fishing from time to time and he hooked a real nice one a little bit later in the day.

 

 

The strike was amazing with the GT coming back twice more after the initial hit before it was finally hooked. Now this was a string puller and after some serious to and fro Kurt won the battle. More pics and a GT estimated somewhere between 35 & 40kg released.

 

 

To finish the day, I saw something moving in the water while we were drifting a channel and Kurt explained it was a manta ray. “Do you want to jump in and have a snorkel with them”? Kurt asked. I thought to myself, Hmmm – 20m drops off to ?m in this channel that looked like a place where all manner of things with big teefs would hang out – what could possibly go wrong?

 

Courage plucked and ready to take the plunge, we motored up and over I went. I drifted back on the manta rays which were just lazily keeping station and feeding in the crystal clear current  - another very special and quite surreal experience just heading towards them and having them peel off and let me through as I got close. Awesome day out Kurt – some great bits and bytes for the memory banks, that’s for sure.

 

 

Vava’u is special. There’s no high rise hotels in sight but the people are welcoming, interesting, friendly and helpful. If you like fishing, diving, snorkeling or playing with whales it surely is a bucket-list item.

 

 

Like Espresso says...you came back why?

great post, thanks for sharing, what a great trip. definitely on my to do list in the next wee while.

One GT is enough to have you hooked for life mate! I'm obsessed with them after catching a few little ones, they are a great looking fish! 

Nice to see Kurt's smiling face with solid GT!

Did he mention his sail-fish on a stick bait whilst fishing solo a month or so ago!!! 

Thanks for the report, and the memory's triggered from it... 

will give you a call at some stage. cheers mate!

but I have spent time fishing in the Cook Islands and thought a short speil may be of interest:-

 

Apart from the obvious draw cards of endless sunny days, sandy beaches and the slow pace of island life, Rarotonga has much on offer to the average or not so average fisho.  There are a huge selection of charters to choose from, starting from humble outriggers through to larger charter boats,  all based at Avarua Harbour...  home to the infamous "Trader Jacks" - a great place to while away a few  hours in the bar / restaurant and watch the whales beyond the reef.

 

 

In August I spent a few weeks at Rarotonga and a day or so out on Akura Charter with skipper George, well known for his record winning catches including largest record marlin at 327kg. 

 

We set out early and spent a short time just off Trader Jacks watching a pod of whales play - not an uncommon sight apparently!

 

 

The target fish for the day was Wahoo and Mai-mai, but after an hour or so trawling just outside the reef without luck, George decided we should head deep and trawl for marlin..  great, I wasn't too unhappy about that.  Akura has the ability to trawl seven lines and lines were set with flying fish and a couple of lines with lures.

 

 

With seven keen fishos on board, we were numbered off and each given time in the chair. If someone is on the chair when theres a strike they stay put, unless they become worn down and conceed their place to the next eager fisho...  and yes surprizingly a few did that, as seems you need real muscles to land even the smallest of marlin.

 

 

So ours was a "lucky day" - five strikes - three on bait (flying fish) and two on lures, with two blues landed - both small according to skipper George - hey not so small too me George!

 

 

So, if youre looking for a great holiday - this is it.  Fishing at its best and the cost can be surprizingly  very reasonable.  Besides the huge selection of resorts, hotels and villas - there are a huge amount of private homes and baches available for rent... all on line and similar to our "book a bach" system which makes accomodation unbelievably cheap.  Travel round the island is simple as the entire circumfrance of the island is 32km, making the hardest decison whether to go clockwise or anticlockwise.  Most popular mode of transport is scooter at approx $28 per day to rent, they almost run on the smell of an oily rag.  Muri Beach is probably the pick of the island for beaches and is home to the Rarotonga sailing club wich hire sunburts (boats with sails!!!)   But even more appealing and just up the road is the Rarotonga fishing club..  where everyone is welcome.

 

 

But if you still need further convincing and remember "these were the little ones"..

 

 

or... perhaps the sunrise on Muri Beach.

 

 

... where even the dogs spend all day chasing the fish :)