water in petrol
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Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70017
Printed Date: 27 May 2026 at 10:10am
Topic: water in petrol
Posted By: AfterDark
Subject: water in petrol
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 10:21pm
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after every winter i seem to have a heap of water in the under floor petrol tank !! put on a new water seperator as was told i had the wrong type started the boat to day and it ran for 5 min till the water filter filled up then just cut out.. think i need to drain the tank its about half full may even take the under floor tank out a get some plastic ones ------------- Allan <'(((>< |
Replies:
Posted By: Blue Asparagus
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 10:27pm
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mate its not the tanks, its condensation getting in there, the idea is to fill the tank to capacity after each use, try some meths in the tank, it helps evaporate the water, I run 3 fuel filters just for this reason, sounds to me as if your going to have to drain the water off but do it through the fuel line as you must have more water than fuel for it to cut out after 5mins ------------- Ultimate GAME Fishing Adventures. Northland |
Posted By: Raging Bull
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 10:38pm
| The water will sit in the bottom of the tank and will be picked up first so if it ran for 5 min today or when ever it was, run it for 4 minutes next time and empty the filter, keep doing that until it is clear of water, and like BA says, tip some meths in the tank and keep it full. If you happen to have an E-tec then make sure you don't get water into the injectors, my mate just got a $5,500 bill to replace his injectors due to water in the fuel (he had no filter), same could be said for any fuel injected outboard but i am not a mechanic and wouldn't know, just know i wouldn't be keen to pay $5,500 to replace the injectors on a 3 cylinder engine. |
Posted By: Busted!
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 11:01pm
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Best approach is drain the lot till the tank is dry and start again, if you have that much in there then you have more than a condensation problem...
Even if the tank is half fuel and you haven't run the boat you won't get that much condensation, it comes about from having hot fuel sitting in a tank with a high humidity or water at the tank breather point. As the tank contents cools it reduces in volume drawing in moisture. If the tank temp is stable (within about 5deg of atmospheric temp) the volume change due to contraction is that small (and considering the vapour pressure of petrol vapour in the airspace of the tank) that you won't get that much moisture in.
Even a diesel tank on an inboard in an ali launch (that is returning heated fuel) doesn't tend to have that much of an issue with moisture ingress from humidity, 99% of the time the water comes from somewhere else (contaminated fuel, failed fuel return line cooler element, water ingress into the tank via a crack etc).
Water seperators will not deal with that much wet fuel, you need to find out where it is coming from and deal with that then worry about the seperators. I would be wanting to get the tank completely dry and having it inspected for any nasty formation (yes it is possible to get bug formation in petrol, just not common) and start with a fresh fill. Clean all the lines out up to the engine as well.
If I was you and I wasn't using the boat over winter I would drain the tank dry as well, that way any fluid in there at the start of summer aint mean to be there and you know where you stand!
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Posted By: Titahi
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 11:23pm
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RB I think your mate got screwed... Without the pleasure of sex! The $5500 works out at $1800 dollars to replace each injector?, I,ve got some new ones, $800 each plus fitting, but not $1000 to install two bolts, clip in the wiring loom and tune with the computer! Get him to ask for a break down, or go disgruntled former postal Given that the problems these injectors experience with small amounts of water intrusion, I wonder if BRP will include a small water separating filter online on future models? Or continue to loose customers and goodwill? ------------- "I love standing by the ocean and just knowing what its for" |
Posted By: Bender
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 5:40am
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The volume of water that After Dark is talking about finding in his tank would, I reckon, be too much for condensation. You do get some condensation in a tank, but enough to fill a filter and clog it - sounds to me like a water leak. You need to thoroughly check the filling system, O-rings, seals, and whatever else, to make sure it's totally secure. Also the breather or could the water be sitting on top of the tank and leaking through the fuel gauge sender (if you have one). Is it running back down the fuel hose and getting in somewhere there - check every way into the tank. I've got a half full 180 litre alloy tank in mine and it's just sat through this cold winter with no condensation at all. ------------- Nobody has ever come up with a great idea after a second bottle of water. |
Posted By: Dagwood
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 6:28am
| My stabi was in a similar state when we bought it. Tracked the problem down to a badly perished breather pipe. Replaced it and not a drop since - condensation or otherwise. |
Posted By: Raging Bull
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 7:56am
He showed me a copy of of the receipt, cant remember what was what but all $5,500 was accounted for! Same place just charged him $2000 to service his 75 R-tec, changd the seal on the gear box behind the prop, new steering cable and helm "because the steering was a bit stiff". |
Titahi wrote:Posted By: Damo
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 9:02am
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agree with Busted and Bender...drain the tank.
------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">  www.charterconnection.co.nz Facebook: Diversity-Fishing |
Posted By: Don18025
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 9:50am
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Water in fuel. Had the same problem with my diesel. here is my check list. 1) Condensation in tank - fit tank drain hose and a valve at lowest point of tank. Regularly drain the dregs in the bottom of tank. 2) Check the o- ring on the fuel filler cap. Replace regularly if filler cap is outside. Move filler point under cover. 3) Check if water can sit on breather, cover breather so it is always dry.(this was my problem). 4) Change hoses if they look suspect. Dagwood's experience is good news for this process. Synthetic hoses do fail with time even when covered up fro UV light. they do not last forever. 5) drain fuel filters as part of the pre trip inspection 6) Do not refuel in the rain! The secret is to keep checking and check again. My experience is water caused my fuel pump to fail and I returned to Port at 4 knots. Cost about $1500 to overhaul and retune, included haul out as a marina berth was not available. Never want that to happen again. Water in the fuel is a no go area with me. |
Posted By: Cigar
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 6:14pm
That was our issue, resulting in us to need a tow back to the ramp!
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Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2011 at 11:51am
| You could also try slightly pressurising the tank. Disconnect the top end of the breather pipe and blow into it. See if it holds. If not use soapy water to find where air is escaping. Is your hose between the filler cap and tank proper fuel hose? It's expensive and a lot use pipe that will perish. Another point/area to check is the weld on the tank at the filler tube. This or the pipe can crack here as it's a stress point. I suspect your problem will be rain though the filler or breather though. |
Posted By: Kings Marine
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2011 at 12:33pm
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I would service hundreds of boats every year and normally 50mls of water in water seperator is very common (for a year of boating), more than 100mls of water and you have a problem with water entry to fuel tank (i.e. not condensation) and yes with the newer EFI engines two stroke and four stroke, if you get water in your injectors (doesnt matter what brand of engine) it will cost $$$ ------------- The Mighty Waikato http://www.facebook.com/pages/Kings-Marine/100476476662857?%3Fref=ts |
Posted By: Slashedwalnut
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2011 at 2:43am
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would you guys know if it is worth putting a fuel seporator on if you have a tote tank? and where to you put it in the fuel line before or after the primer?
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Posted By: Bounty Hunter
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2011 at 8:11am
not quite so important for tote tanks - they arent as prone to condensation forming as the metal underfloor tanks and if you get a bit of water under the fuel, totes are obviously much easier to empty out. ------------- No disintegrations! |
Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2011 at 8:12am
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Its always worth it unless you are always inspecting the tote tank for water or dirt etc. Its best to be fitted first, before the primer. The only thing is it makes it a little hard to prime the fuel system if you run it out of fuel. If you run the tote tank out, then swap over fuel tanks, I would put the primer first to eliminate any hairy moments trying to prime fuel system if running out close to bar, or the ramp etc.. I can supply you a kit for about $90 if you cant find one cheaper.. |
Posted By: Kings Marine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2011 at 2:52pm
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Tote tanks dont get the condensation issues, but they still get water in via the vent in cap design. also the fuel filter on most outboards are just a strainer rather than a proper fuel filter. bottom line - if it where my boat I would put it on 
------------- The Mighty Waikato http://www.facebook.com/pages/Kings-Marine/100476476662857?%3Fref=ts |
Posted By: Dagwood
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2011 at 5:40pm
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The best designed, built and maintained outboard won't run on water! I put a full sized filter on my Yamaha 30hp because I saw the amount of spray etc going over the tote tank. Didn't bother with the clear bowel given the likely volume but gives good piece of mind! |