Sea Nymph Gullwing owners help please
Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=65998
Printed Date: 18 Apr 2024 at 8:54pm
Topic: Sea Nymph Gullwing owners help please
Posted By: sbeehre
Subject: Sea Nymph Gullwing owners help please
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 8:36pm
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My Gullwing is in at the fibreglass workshop getting a new floor and also some other small repairs... one of them is the ugly hole someone put in the motor well to allow the steering arm to extend into! At the moment ive got an old 70HP 1974 Johnson on there and am looking at a new Yamaha 90HP 2 stroke. The question i have is if i get the steering arm hole fixed will the new steering arm fit in there. If anyone has a gullwing or similar and has a new or more modern motor id be interested to see how you have done it.  |
Replies:
Posted By: Doubie
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 10:14pm
sbeehre..I have a 70HP Yamaha about 1990 vintage and seems to have the same steering arm issue. Nice big hole in the fibreglass very much like that which is handy for letting water into the boat....
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 10:17pm
| this one has an aluminium box on the inside so water cant get into the boat and it the only decent thing about it! |
Posted By: Olfart
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 10:23pm
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Had two round holes in the well in my old (1974) Sea Nymph where the original rope steering went through and was able to fit blind grommets in both sides when I installed cable steering. Had to make a hole in one of the grommets to let the cable through, but never had an issue with water getting in after that. But your issue sbeehre, is a little more problematic than mine was. Good luck with the repairs.... ------------- Semper in excreta sumus, solum profundum variat.... |
Posted By: Doubie
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 10:25pm
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sbeehre wrote:Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 8:03am
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Thats not an old motor issue, its an outboard steering issue, just how they opperate. You could replace the steering cable with a shorter, or if you can hide a foot or so of cable, get a splash well mounting kit, and mount the steering cable to where it comes out on the starboard side, then it attaches straight to the front of the motor. Will probably cost around $150 for the parts I would say to do this, ( plus a cable if yours is too long ) Let me know if you want me to price the parts for you. |
Posted By: Catchit
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 8:28am
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What about putting a pod on the back ? ------------- "We gave Sir Peter a knighthood," Mr Key said, "And if we could give him a second one, we would." |
Posted By: Busted!
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 9:08am
| How about fibreglassing in a tube with the other end capped? Was going to do that to my old Cresta craft V17 (before the motor died and we scrapped the boat). |
Posted By: FISH 4 DINNA
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 9:14am
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Hi Sbeehre .
I'll pop out the back of my place later this morning & photo what was done to my vessell , 74 vintage with cutout & rubbber boot inserted . ------------- Accept that some days you are the pigeon and some days you are the statue |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 9:50am
thanks that looks quite good! id never heard of them before... so if i put that on the current engine would it be able to be used with a new one?
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 9:51am
thanks mate
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 9:54am
thats an option to but id just need to make sure it fits the new outboard as well.
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Posted By: FISH 4 DINNA
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 10:42am
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Here's some photos of my set up :   ------------- Accept that some days you are the pigeon and some days you are the statue |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 10:45am
| thanks! it looks like your steering arm is slightly higher and points further forward than mine... i bought one of those rubber grommets but it wont fit the current setup unfortunately. |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 10:48am
is http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/steering-splashwell-kit90-degree-p-2741.html - this what you are talking about?
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Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 6:06pm
| Thats exactly what im talking about |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 6:22pm
| so if i was to use that kit does it get rid of the need for the long steering arm i have now? and apart from possibly new cable does it include all i would need? |
Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 7:02pm
| as long as it has the end on the end of it to attach to the steering arm of your motor, you are in business! Then you can fill the hole on the other side and it will look nice and tidy. |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 7:04pm
that sounds pretty good... i will check the cable length but I'm pretty sure i could move it back about a foot if i need to, thanks a lot for the advice mate!
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Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 7:09pm
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You will need to purchase a clevis kit aswell. They $38 dollars. Attaches steering cable, to motor.
I could do you the same kit for $115
You might need a 15 degree mounting kit. Where it mounts is probably on an angle in the well. These kits are more expensive retial at 189 - could do for $160
Either type you will still need clvis kit
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 7:43pm
| Ok when i get the boat back from the shop i will get in contact with you |
Posted By: tas-tackle
Date Posted: 14 May 2011 at 11:03pm
 ------------- http://postimage.org/" rel="nofollow">  http://www.tas-tackle.co.nz |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 15 May 2011 at 6:59am
| thanks fisher... are you using a splash wall mount kit? |
Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 15 May 2011 at 10:30am
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Thats different, that kit mounts to transom and has a bracket that holds the steering cable. You can do either.. |
Posted By: Doubie
Date Posted: 15 May 2011 at 6:42pm
Sbeehre, sems like you have found some options and its been an elightening exercise for me as well. Thanks for raising it and my thanks also to those posting 
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 16 May 2011 at 6:46pm
| No worries Doubie! glad you got some info out of it to... Have you got any pics of your Gullwing? im always keen to see other Gullwings and how people have set them up. |
Posted By: Huggybear
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 12:25am
| sbeehre, that Yam 90hp you're thinking of fitting sounds good, but a 70hp would probably be better suited and provide ample power on a Sea Nymph 14'6". 70hp seems to be the perfect hp for the SN 14'6". 90hp, from what I know, tends to be a tad heavy, weighing the boat down a bit more in the stern and requiring the likes of a hydrofoil to help it get up out of the hole and stay on the plane better. Food for thought anyway. |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 7:38am
I wonder how heavy the current 1974 70hp Johnson would weigh? anyone got any idea? |
Posted By: Dagwood
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 9:31am
Tend to agree. Your '74 70hp is probably well down on power due to age. Furthermore when it came out of the box, my money would be on it producing 70hp at the flywheel whereas the newer motors are all prop rated. A new 70hp would be quite an improvement. I made the mistake of buying an overpowered 17' Haines with a V6 200hp Suzuki. The extra weight seriously affected the boat. A V4 140 would have been much better. |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 11:19am
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just checked the yamaha site and a 90hp 2 stroke is 120kg a 70hp 2 stroke is 105kg and a 70hp 4 stroke is 120kg |
Posted By: Doubie
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 9:33pm
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Posted By: Doubie
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 9:38pm
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 9:55pm
| I found out the 74 Johnson 70ESL is 100kgs so if i get a 90 Yamaha its an extra 20kgs, but the guys at Rollo's Marine say they do a lot of Yamaha 90's on the Gullwing's and reckon they go awesome! |
Posted By: JerryHatrick
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 10:12pm
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I had a Yamaha 90Hp 2-stroker on my Sea Nymph Wasp (same hull as the 146). Yep, was on the heavy side & the back tended to be low in the water, but never had any issues out of the hole or with getting her on the plane.
I do think the 70 would have been adequate, but must admit that I always did like the thought of a few extra ponies on the back when the going got rough on the way back ...
My thoughts ... good boat, good motor, good combo!
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Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 18 May 2011 at 6:19pm
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At one of the shops I was at, we had a 14'6 sea nymph gull wing as a shop hack. We had an '87 90 hp johnson on it. Went great! 47 mph flat out. We had a 140 yamaha on it.... Boss sold it the motor tho :-( |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 20 May 2011 at 9:18pm
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Well i got the boat back today ready for the weekend! man it looks awesome    Just got to paint this and it will look sweet  |
Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 20 May 2011 at 9:26pm
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You must be like a kid at christmas!! Good stuff
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 20 May 2011 at 9:28pm
| i'll say! the GF just cant see what all the fuss is about though... the only downside is i dont have my seat boxes made so we will have to sit on a fish bin on Sunday. |
Posted By: Doubie
Date Posted: 20 May 2011 at 10:14pm
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Nice sbeehre....enjoy!
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Posted By: Huggybear
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 11:07pm
| Looks choice mate - plenty of fishing space there! |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 23 May 2011 at 8:04am
yeah i still have to put some seat boxes in but they shouldn't take up to much of the room. |
Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 8:52pm
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i'm gonna resurrect this old thread to see if i can get an answer.
i
i've got a 14'6" with a 94 tohatsu 70hp on it. the steering looks a little different then most setups i've seen in that the flexible part of the cable ends underneath the transom before the splashwell. only the bar itself inside a section of sleeve extends out into the spalsh well and attachs to a pivot point on the outboard. its hard to explain without the photo. i'll pop the photo up when i get home from work.
anyways, the problem is that the motor turns more to one side then the other. i can't see if theres any way to adjust without moving the "box" where the flexible cable ends(atached the the transom with two bolts). its a teleflex safe-t-steer.
photos to come, but i thought someone might be familiar with and understand what i'm trying badly to explain.
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Posted By: NZfrnd
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2011 at 5:02am
| i think mine also does the same, i thought something was blocking it, but doesnt seem to be the case. i should have tested it turning to both sides when i took her out, next time :) |
Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2011 at 9:00am
 this is where the flexible part of the cable ends, took the pic in a hurry and didn't notice the wires blocking the view. this type of system familiar to anyone? |
Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2011 at 10:07am
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That tube is threaded and should be adjustable. usually they are able to be be spun to set them in the middle when the steering is in the middle. If not, the box is mounted in the wrong place.. |
Posted By: Outboard Performance
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2011 at 10:11am
| Also, if you can connect the rod to the inner hole on the steering arm of the motor, (if it doesnt fowl on anything) you will have more steering lock aswell. |
Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2011 at 10:39am
| theres my project for my days of, cheers OP. |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 10:16am
| I've noticed some of the v146's have a shelf under the front of the boat above where the anchor goes... mine doesn't have one and I've been thinking of making one. If anyone has a shelf in their boat would you mind posting some close up pics of how it attaches and what it looks like. |
Posted By: Doubie
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 8:50pm
I have seen those too sbeehre. Mine doesn't have a shelf but I keep mine an a fish bin which works fine (when I use it) and sits behind the lip on the floor in the bow area without sliding around anywhere 
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2012 at 2:07pm
same here but i was thinking of using the shelf for storage etc |
Posted By: tanked
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2012 at 6:08pm
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sbeehre, just found this thread when I was looking for seating options for my v146, maybe a little late.... Mine still had the original shelf in the front, I can take some pics if interested, but I found it a hassle and removed it after about 3 trips. It wasted alot of space as it sat right in the middle (height wise) and I found I could get more in there with fish bins and bags etc. By the way, I love how your boat is turning out, has been a great inspiration, I would be keen to follow progress if you have it posted somewhere. |
Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2012 at 7:33pm
you dont still have it do you? i'll pm you with some pics of the boat if you like.... the next thing to be done will be the transom then the boat will be 100% solid. I also thought of getting a self draining anchor box glassed in which is why i wanted the shelf because then i wouldn't have a plastic anchor box up there taking up space. |
Posted By: tanked
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2012 at 10:45pm
Yep still got it, still sitting by the garage from when I removed it. You're welcome to have it if you want it, though i'm not sure how much shipping would cost its pretty big. I plan on doing exactly what you're thinking of doing, glassing in an anchor well, I figure quite shallow but taking up the whole front with a smaller opening should work out ok. I'll send you a pm, would like to see some pics. |
Posted By: woza friday
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 7:01pm
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Can anyone tell me if the later Seanymph 146 is a gullwing? Does it have the same hull as the older 14ft6? I like the gullwing shape....am going to look at a 1988 146 with a 90 Yamaha. Pictures look good. Thanks
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Posted By: sbeehre
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 7:08pm
| from what I've seen the later model ones used the same hull shape but had a different cabin with a opening hatch allowing you to pull up the anchor without having to step over the windscreen like i have to on mine. |
Posted By: family affair
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 7:09pm
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not sure but i think it changed man if its got plaining stakes etc than im guessing not. awesome lil boats those just sold mine not long ago ------------- mv maui |
Posted By: Huggybear
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 7:48pm
All Sea Nymph 14'6" hulls are gull-wing - no matter what year they were built. They just had different boat builders build them over the years, with varying degrees of excellence. The top-sides changed when Bonito acquired the hull mould (and the 14'6" Wasp had a cabin), but the hull still remains the same. Awesome boat the 14.6 - probably the best 4.5m boat around ... still.
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Posted By: Huggybear
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 8:00pm
The 1988 14.6 was likely built by Bonito and has the walk-thru windshield and retains the back-to-back seating. With a 90hp Yammie that should be a good boat depending on the hull and motor condition. Hopefully the motor's not too old. If it's a tidy rig you can't go wrong. All the best in your search, but you're looking in the right direction and should end up with a good boat in the Sea Nymph 14'6".
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Posted By: tanked
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 10:47pm
As huggy said, if its sound its hard to go wrong. Check the floor and transom carefully, and if the motor is well serviced and not too old i'd go for it! I put an 04 yammie 90 on the back of mine, really gets up and goes, its nice to have the extra power especially for the bar crossings i do here. I love my Sea Nymph v146! |
Posted By: aidanc
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2012 at 4:55pm
| top hat as pictured in above posts is the best solution |
Posted By: Tim84
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2021 at 9:18am
| Hi guys, I think I recently bought the yellow Sea Nymph V146 with the 90hp 1988 Yamaha that was mentioned on here earlier. It's still looking good and going strong! I am doing some mods though, on of the main things I wan't to do is replace the windscreens, it's a 3 panel model, reasonably flat so I can easily re-cut the acrylic myself, just need to find the rubber for fixing it back in, it's a bit old and dry so needs a re-fresh. I've read on a forum I need something called a claytonrite tool to fit the locking bead. Has anyone replaced their Gullwing Windows? I |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2021 at 10:33am
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Can buy the tool for around $10/ $20. I can only speak for the Commander.. Side widows are relatively flat... easy to cut. Do not cut to the shape of the old ones... thu may use as a guide. Make a template to exact size, gaps (cant rem the gaps now.. I worked out for myself from the rubbers size. The front window has a sight curve in.. when cut and put in leave the acrylic out in the sun on a hot day, then fit in. There are couple a FB page on sea nymph gull wings.. one more NZ SN thu a few yanks asking stuff for their alloy US SNs.. and the other seems US SN stuff. OH bit basic stuff.. when putting in the rubbers , the join ALWAYS goes at the bottom...and a blob of automotive windscreen urethane on the join. Doesnt hurt to also put a bead inside the cabin side of the rubber. |
Posted By: Pcj
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2021 at 10:59am
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Check the rubber for signs of wear,only want to the job once. And the new rubber is slightly thicker and windows need trimming to suit.I found out the hard way . End up taking new rubber and old window to car glazier.Perfect sizing when fitting,plenty soapy water. The tool was 17$ from comac.co.nz Think the new rubber is 1mm shallower than the old.
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Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2021 at 5:22pm
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My two cents worth. I refer to rubber trim particularly external. I've used a few products over the years but came across a product that solved a few issues that were quite a problem. My worst problem was a leak in a sunroof in the cruiser. I googled all the solutions and dealt with all the suggestions.lincludinding drain pipes being blocked, channels being blocked till I got to the point it was the dry rubber seals which actually didn't look that dry being leakers. So I purchased a product from repco, branded "play dead" rubber rejuvenate. Almost immediate results. I've now used this on a range of machinery, vehicles etc. it works brilliantly. It swells the rubber and thus rebuilds the seals to stop water ingress. It's a winner in my book. I've used quite a few variations of these products over the years not to much gain. This one has. Success is success. Worth considering I suggest. ------------- Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0! |