Woolly Bugg@r Help
Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: Freshwater Fishing
Forum Name: Fly Tying
Forum Description: Swap tips and techniques for Fresh and Saltwater fly patterns
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28471
Printed Date: 04 Feb 2026 at 3:32pm
Topic: Woolly Bugg@r Help
Posted By: Barbary B
Subject: Woolly Bugg@r Help
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2008 at 10:15am
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My nemisis - the woolly mailto:Bugg@r - Bugg@r ! No matter what I do they always come out looking less than desirable - hackles facing different directions and body shape distorted.
Does anyone have some good step by step instructions or links to instructions??
------------- "Look ahead, look astern, look to weather, look to lea Look down along the coast of High Barbary..." |
Replies:
Posted By: P-A
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 6:45am
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1. Taper the body to a spool shaped body, i use sealfur hard spun against
the thread in a dubbing loop. This is not to to get that distorted body you talk about.
2.The hackle should be tied in after the tail and it shall be tied in with the topp of the hackle to the hookshank, the opposite as for dryflies!!!!!
If u remeber this it should be fine.
Best Regards
P-A
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Posted By: upstream
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 8:53am
You know what? - I reckon the ugly buggers catch the fish (talking flies here not anglers  ). The flies with oversize webby hackle that pulse with the slightest movement and sparse marabou tails are the ones that look most lifelike. The neat ones you buy in the shop may look the part, but they don't work so good. The hackles are too short and full and the tails too bushy.
So I wouldn't be too concerned with what the buggers look like, but do they catch fish?
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Posted By: Pole Dancer
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 11:12am
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I think there is a lot of merit to what you're saying Kevin. The longer softer hackles bit I definitely agree with. One of the problems the "mass - producers" have is getting enough of that lower quality hackle as their main suppliers tend to be the companies they are aligned with producing genetic hackle etc. The softer Hen stuff and others are much better as you suggest. On Olive Woolly Buggers I personally prefer pheasant green rump feathers, long, soft and perfectly marked to give a buggy natural look.
On the tails however I think it's sometimes situation specific. I tie them in a variety of different thicknesses of tail and don't forget just how much Marabou slims down.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as you suggest and a fly that "looks" like it will catch fish is far more delightful to my eye than one perfectly tied but tied with the angler in mind.
It's one of the reasons the fad of "realistic tying" has never done anything for me at all. While I admire the skill and artistry it has little to do with making more effective flies. ------------- http://www.clarkreid.co.nz" rel="nofollow - www.clarkreid.co.nz FFF Certified Casting Instructor / Umpqua Designer Tier 
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Posted By: Barbary B
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 11:38am
Hmmm - might have to dust off the shotgun. Thanks Clark. (currently also giving your cadillac pt a go).
Ps - what size hook do y'all prefer for the woolly bugger on the river/lake. ------------- "Look ahead, look astern, look to weather, look to lea Look down along the coast of High Barbary..." |
Clark wrote:Posted By: upstream
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 1:06pm
Is that the Mrs Simpson feather clark?
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Posted By: upstream
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 1:08pm
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Barbary, I like a #8 or #6 long shank bugger for the lake or big rivers. I have gone down to a #10 or even a #12 on the smaller rivers and streams with success. |
Posted By: Pole Dancer
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 4:11pm
It is, but the best ones are ust a bit further back on the rump... they're longer in the tips... a really under untilised feather by tyers....
 Kevin is right about sizes too... the Buggers can be used in all manner of sizes and configurations depedning on where you're fishing and whether it is most likely to be mistaken for a mudeye, bully, crayfish etc. I [personally have them in sizes 4/0 for saltwater through to #10's.
The woolly bugger is a pattern so versatile it should be thought of, as Kevin has correctly asserted, in just the one commercial type of design... the flytier has a huge advantage with these fellas... ------------- http://www.clarkreid.co.nz" rel="nofollow - www.clarkreid.co.nz FFF Certified Casting Instructor / Umpqua Designer Tier
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Posted By: HareNcopA
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2008 at 7:25pm
kev does get his fair share of fish
 ------------- Behind every good fisherman is a lonely woman |
Posted By: upstream
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2008 at 9:03am
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Posted By: Chris Dore
Date Posted: 04 May 2008 at 11:02am
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I dont use hackles on my WB's and find they work just fine. In fact. in river situations the omission of the hackle actually allows the fly to move through the currents a lot easier.
The Marabou tail provides all the action it needs IMO.
I use a simple construction of a bead / cone of some sorts at the head, fluffy marabou tail and glister dubbed as the body. Loosly dubbed, the spiky fibres of the dub I guess could simulate movement of sorts...
Chris
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Posted By: Onecast
Date Posted: 05 May 2008 at 9:15am
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I'm with Chris on this one. I fished a size 6 Black fly with no Hackle. plenty of Marabou for the tail and a bead head. with Black Chenille or Eztaz Chenille for the body.
The trout Loved it. One of my buddies used it almost 99% of the time. Jax ------------- A man is only as big as the things that annoy him RIP 'Onecast' Jax Murray |
Posted By: 45kg_puka
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2008 at 1:59am
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The more a bugger looks like a bugger, 9 times outa 10 they wont take it......strange that yer.. |