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Knife sharpening

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: Saltwater Fishing
Forum Name: The Briny Bar
Forum Description: The place for general chat on saltwater fishing!
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491
Printed Date: 29 Jul 2026 at 11:54pm


Topic: Knife sharpening
Posted By: Wefaknis
Subject: Knife sharpening
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 2:28pm

Hi all

I use a knife sharpener and a steel to keep my filleting knifes sharp, as I'm next to useless on the stone. One of my knifes now now needs attention on the blade it's got  a few chunks missing. What do you guys do?.

Stephen




Replies:
Posted By: Lethal
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 3:25pm

yeah mine are looking like crap too, good call Stephen........

come on you Guru Knife sharpeners give us some answers i need a lesson in how to.......... Please please forever blunt........

Cheers Lethal



Posted By: ChrisW
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 5:21pm

It sounds like they need re-grinding.  Take them to House of Knifes and they have a re-sharpening service.  If you want the best treatment, send them to the many knife makers - e.g. Steve Wheeler knives in Napier.

You can buy the sharpeners that consist of 2 harden tool steel edges and all you do is draw the knife through them - e.g. accusharp.  Many commercial fishermen and farmers use them because they are a cheap no-nonsense knife sharpener especially for people who aren't fussy with how they treat their knives.

This is quite brutal treatment for fine cutlery because it scrapes off the shoulders of the knife edge.



Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 5:32pm

I sharpen my knives before every trip using a stone and finish it off with a steel. I have seen sharper knives but a dressing with the steel after every few cuts brightens them up a bit. I would like to know more about it .... sounds like good advice from Chris. I wouldnt use a knife shapener. I know lots of people use grinders to give an edge and although they seem to cut well it is more of a sawing action than a clean cut.

Ohhh yeah ...they go blunt real quick if you put them in a dishwasher. 



Posted By: Bushpig
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 6:59pm

When I was a young chap I worked in a meat processing plant and learnt a couple of things about sharpening knives.

To get a good edge you need a good quality knife. Cheap rubbish wont hold an edge.

Best thing is a diamond sharpener. A good one is worth a bit and even butchers used to get a pro in once a month to touch their knives up. The rest of the time they used a stone and steel.

The main thing I learnt was that I'm crap at doing it and get the pro's to do it for me.



Posted By: A C
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 7:07pm

I use the old wiltshire stay sharp scabbard, Wifey's not too keen but the big model fits most knife sizes. Again a bit brutal but very effective.

Cheers

AC



Posted By: Jack Sprat
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 7:25pm

Yup good subject. I'm an ex chef, and did my time as a knife hand at the freezing works as a youngster too. Done my time sharpening knives.

Definately sounds like they need regrinding Stephen. Use a fine grinder, acute angle is best, away from handle direction of grind. Finish with stone and tickle with a steel, always away from handle direction. A stell is for removing the bur, not sharpening. A video clip will be up by the weekend;-)



Posted By: Dead Ant
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 8:50pm

I'm an amateur as well but here's what works for me.

Bait knifes that get caned cutting bonitor heads, opening scalops,  impaling people who touch their drags all get dealt to with an accusharp.  It's brutal, messy, and works a treat.

When it comes to filleting knifes mine are cheap and cheerful but they still get the stone and steel treatment.  They look better and a quick flick with a steel gives you a break from filleting if you're doing a big batch.  I like a long steel rather than some of the short ones which fit in the knife sheaths.  Gives me a chance to keep the knife away from my fingers esp after a couple of beers!

When filleting, something that I've learnt helps me if to keep your knife hand well away from the blood, slime and scales.  This means you always have a good grip.  It takes a little time to get used to but makes huge difference.

   Cheers

       DA



Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 14 May 2003 at 9:26pm

Yeah this is a really good topic. I always wanted to get better at it. One thing for sure is they cant be too sharp.

For a bait knife I use these little stumpy Tramontina things, The Wharehouse used to sell them for 5 bucks ...really good when you throw them over the side as often as I do. But even bait knives need to be sharp and these things sharpen up nice.

I have three filleting knives ... one a really long skinny bladed ss thing ..... a cheapie and useless. The other is more a butcher type knife a biggish sturdy Green River thing that rusts if you look at it the wrong way. Really good for bigger jobs. My third knife is a Victorinox boning knife with a stippled handle. Perfect!  ...but a bit short for bigger fish with a six inch blade (not usually a problem for me....).

I use a stone to sharpen them .. I think I already said that ... using a fairly light pressure at an angle of ...I dunno about 15 degrees i guess in a circular motion. Your stone needs to be flat, cheap ones wear away too fast. I have an old round one of my dads, it is just a small circular thing with the side busted out of it. It is probably 50 years old and is still ... just .... servicable.

I use a fairly light oil, or just motor oil. When you use the stone you can feel .... DONT CHOP YOUR FINGER OFF!!! ...that the edge is feathered over to one side. Dress it up with the steel a long one is way better, on about the same angle or slightly steeper and it will get real sharp. I had a mate who could sharpen them really well and he used to check them by shaving the hairs off the back of his hand. It was like a razor ... probably not a good thing to do especially on a boat!

After all that I have never got really good at sharpening them but get a reasonable result ... better than a Wiltshire Stay Sharp ..ish ... they sort of put a wavy edge on the things.

Good advice to keep your cutting hand clean too. I remember watching a Bill Hohepa video once ...years ago ... where he bled a kahawai by slashing the tail. It seemd an odd way to bleed a fish to me so I tried it. One flick of it's tail and my hand was out of action for two weeks...ohhh well at least it proved I had sharpened the thing right I guess. The next trip out on the same boat i cut myself again ... geeez smudge you are stupid.... so I am a little more cautious nowadays.



Posted By: Hoot
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 3:39am
Hey smudge, oil is`nt that great for a stone, it will effectivly `ruin` it, soak your stone in crc, then hot water , then use only clean fresh water to lubricate, U mite find it `different` after that!!!


Posted By: 1000PA
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 5:37am

My filletting knives get the same treatment as my skinning and meat knives. they all get the stone and steel before use. The filletting knives get a bit more grinding sometimes because they get a heck of a hard time.

I keep three knives, 1 for the boat, 1 for my tackle box and 1 at home.

Most people that go out with me don't seem to own a knife for the day and use mine. I'm OK with that, theres a knife in the rack by the bait board for all to use. I have to buy a new one each year to replace the one that gets knicked that often. It;s amazing how my mates boats all have my ex knives on them. They say they're sharper than theirs!!

Ross



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Fishing-4-all-NZ


Posted By: Barrie
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 6:04am
when people are out with me, I prefer them not to bring knives as on two charters I have been on, too many knives left on the bait station or sitting on gear have fallen off and twice gone through a foot and a leg..My boat..my duty to provide the knife
Im with smudge and use Green River found that with a tickle up with a steel, they are right again


Posted By: Naki
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 7:41am

Lethal.

Geezzz what chance do mere mortals have at keeping a knife sharp if  expert fishermen can't.

 

I'm in the same boat as everyone else, can't sharpen a knife to save myself. I have a couple of filleting knifes, one for the boat and one for home and a bait knife. All three are Frosts, but the filleting knifes are nearly impossible to get a decent edge on. I also use those accu sharp things and they do work, but I don't like using them on my expensive knifes. My bait knife seems to hold an edge better tho.

 

I think the quality of the blade makes a big difference. SS seems to be harder to sharpen than carbon steel. Planning on buying a carbon steel knife at the boat  show (perhaps a Wheeler).



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President of the "Pontoon Owners Club".
I started off with nothing and now I still have most of it left!!!


Posted By: Stingray
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 7:47am

I have been using a Lansky knife sharpner for probably about 10 years.  It consists of a knife clamp and guide with a range of stones from very coarse to extremely fine.  The knife clamp has holes for guiding the stones at a fixed angle, so you always end up with a constant angle on the edge of the knife.  For the boat, I normally only use up to the medium stone - figure that I do not need to shave when I go fishing...  You can get a shaving edge, though, but it is also good for repairing a really bad edge, using the coarse stone.

Have a look at the following link http://www.lansky.com">http://www.lansky.com  Probably explains it much better than me. 

Cheers

Stingray



Posted By: dustin
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 8:38am

I don't claim to be an expert but have had to sharpen filleting and kitchen knives and can put an o.k. edge on a blade, enough to make me happy anyway.  You have got to have the sharpest possible blade for preparing sashimi, and the sharper the blade the easier and quicker it is to unzip a fish on the dock.  For bait prep I like a short stiff straight bladed knife with about a 3.5 to 4" blade.  For filleting I like a good quality blade about eight inches and for larger fish say 80# and bigger tunas a 10/12 inch model can come in handy but I have more control with the smaller blade and use it most of the time. 

The kind of knife sharpener where you pass a blade back and forth through a fixed stone works very well, but IMO it's better on small blades.  For larger blades like the large fillet knife mentioned above, I like a two sided stone, one side relatively coarse, the other side fine.  Lay on a wetted cloth so it don't move.  Use only water, never oil.  The guy who taught me (a professional chef whom I'm forever grateful to), stroked the blade across the stone more or less on its side and passed it back and forth on the same place on the stone, with pressure placed on the edge, rather than grinding the whole blade across the stone.  A dozen passes one side, then flip the blade over and a dozen passes the other side.  A real blunt blade may take a while to knock into shape, but given time you'll get a good edge.  Switch to the fine side to get it as sharp as possible.  Main thing is to keep the pressure on the edge, and any angle you hold the blade to the stone, constant. 

cheers dustin



Posted By: Bushpig
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 9:10am
Find yourself a friendly Butcher and pay him a couple of bucks and you willget a sharp knife every time


Posted By: Paul M
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 10:58am

I used to have this problem,

I did some research on the net and found everything I needed to know.

Be prepared to put in a couple of hours practicing and you will get there.

Some important things to getting a knife sharp.

The angle you are grinding at must remain constant ( very important)

You can make a knife two sharp for the job. ie if the angle you grind at is two great the cutting edge will be very sharp but paper thin and will deteriorate after a couple of cuts. Cant remember the correct angle for filliting but you will work it out while playing.

The grain on opposite sides of the blade should be against each other.

To establish the initial edge, grind one side extensivly, this creates a very thin bur foliding over in the opposite direction, give it a very light grind on the opposite side to break of the bur, this leaves a very sharp edge. Touch it up with decreasing grained stones. The more the better. If you are obsessed with really sharp knifes, the final step is to strop the edge with a bit of leather or cloth.

I can get all of my knives "scary sharp", able to shave hair with them, there is another level of sharpness cant remember what its called but the hairs make a popping sound as you shave them off your arm. I can only get my really expensive knife this sharp.

The steel should not be used after using a stone. Its purpose is to repair the edge not grind and edge. It straightens the edge back up, thats all. Always cracks me up when you see someone going hammer and tongs with a steel. You only need a couple of strokes on edge side with hardly any pressure. To much pressure and you are bending the edge over.

During the time I was teaching myself how to sharpen I had these massive bald spots allover my arms.



Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 11:18am
Hahahahawell who is going to argue with a guy with massive bald spots, sounds like we got our expert answers there. Thanks Paul.


Posted By: Lethal
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 2:36pm

Excellent Paul......

have copied your report and will keep it to sit down and study how to.....

Thanks again Cheers Lethal



Posted By: Zeke
Date Posted: 15 May 2003 at 6:46pm

Re sharpening knives...............has anyone else tried the chinese style chopper type thingys ? the steel is r/s but they are easy to sharpen and hold an edge that you wouldn`t believe, i have 3, big , small, and a small one with a curved blade, these things are lethal and i have the scars to prove it

zeke

it it ain`t broke , fix it anyway



Posted By: Hooka
Date Posted: 20 May 2003 at 7:29am

I was Knife sharpener for a Company in Brisbane for 5  years,and my main weapon for reshaping and getting rid of chips etc was a 120 grit Linishing belt.They go pretty fast and you can burn the edge if you`re not careful,but it`s still the quickest way to reshape a damaged edge.

Once you have got the shoulder off,then it`s all muscle again (Stone and steel)

If you`re steeling a knife make sure you have the edge of the knife at the same angle you stoned it at.If you are steeling a knife towards your body remember to tuck your thumb away and behind the steel handle.I`ve seen a lot of cut thumbs in my time at the Meat works.If you can try steeling the knife away from you,that is,Heel to tip and away from your body.This is a good technique to learn as it is safer for one and it also allows the use of those smaller type steels.

Buy the best knife you can afford(Swibo/Victorinox/Dick)all superior knives,but best left at home for the serious side of your Filleting when the fish are home.On the Boat or the rocks,just any old thing will do really.as long as it has a good pouch to keep it tucked away and safe.

If anyone needs their knife sharpened contact me and i`ll see what i can do for you.I`ve seen some pretty abominable knives so don`t be scared mates.Send them to me with a paid reply post and i`ll sharpen them for you.

I`m a sickness beneficiary  so have plenty of time on my hands now,that is of course when the Trout are`nt running or the Sea is calm.

Happy sharpening guys and gals....



Posted By: 1Daz
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 8:05pm
What about the actual stone? Is a stone a stone or are sum better than others? I've got one but reckon its rubbish... more for chisels than for knives probally... Grabbed it when I saw it in the old mans garage years ago.Confused

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Go the Warriors!


Posted By: swish2fish
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 9:56pm
Please do your self a huge favour and go here:
scarysharp.co.nz


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Max


Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:23am
I use a Eversharp ll electric sharpener. It makes re-grinding quick and easy and good. Cost about $60


Posted By: John_Ra
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:36am
Nice link swish...
 
I bought a diamond cut steel for 24.95, usually $90 or there abouts. Used the stone to get a good edge then just use the diamond to keep it sharp. Havn't used a stone in ages. I don't buy expensive knives as the under $20 ones are good enough even the jarvis walker blue handle type.
I don't use those long thin flexy blades either, not easy to keep sharp but that's just me...


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Posted By: atis
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 10:25am
good course of sharpening knifes... just follow the related vids...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYnFL3zCYUY - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYnFL3zCYUY


Posted By: Nathan
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:25am
These are great for dummies and can be thrown in the pack or baot if needed - Furi diamond sharpener:
 


Posted By: Zee
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 12:22pm
i go stone, steel, jewel stick. can shave ya face with it after your done. just dont over do it!



Posted By: Catchelot
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 4:07pm
Hard case machine there Nathan, good to see and old thread revived and bought back from time, I suck using a stone but am not bad at a long diamond sharpener and use it all the time.

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"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau


Posted By: "Scooter"
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 8:57pm

Set your edge with a Mill ******* file then finsh with a standard butchers steel or ceramic rod.

When you use the file don't run it across the blade,wipe it the length of the blade.



Posted By: Moggy
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:06pm
Like most I hate blunt tools and as I also do a lot of woodworking as a hobby however I have always detested the time it took o keep things like chisels and plane blades sharp not to mention knives and like most I was guilty of not keeping woodworking tools or knives sharp to do the job better. That was until I happened across the Worksharp 3000 system (Carbatec in East Tamaki stocks them)
See there USA site for details:
http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=127 - http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=127
 
This would have to be one of the best and easiest systems and a no hassle way of keeping things sharp, I also do all my knives on it however recently they have come out with an accessory that makes knife sharping a breeze – and almost fun using right down to 6000grit abrasives. Once you have your knife honed I find its just a matter usually of using the fine grit to bring the edge back up
Anyway for those interested here is the data on the attachment:
http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tabs.acc.tpl&product_id=2695&category_id=82&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=102 - http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tabs.acc.tpl&product_id=2695&category_id=82&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=102
 
And some short video’s on how to use them.
http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=9&Itemid=132 - http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=9&Itemid=132
 
Like most I also used a diamond steel but the one thing I learnt fast was that they take a huge amount of metal off so mine is now consigned to the dustbin.


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People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it!
FISH FIGHT The Peoples Protest


Posted By: Wide Load
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 6:35am
I use the Lanski (sp) system, it takes ages but does a great job.
Fine dimond steel to keep the edge.


Posted By: billfish
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:17am
Crikey that was a trip down memory lane right there.  2003 to 2011.  

Amazing that Piglet used to make sense back then.

Is this then the longest running thread??


Posted By: Yammieski
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:44am
I have a Machine at home in Army Bay that I use for all my Chefs knives, and my fishing knives so if you live local PM me to arrange a time. Failing that The Chef Shop in Northcote (Roy Holmes) is the best, hwe also has a shop in Newmarket Lion PLace

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"Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain."


Posted By: bazza
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 9:03am
For what it is worth here is a link ging advice on Knife sharpening from Buck knives.
 
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=product.wall.sharpening&end_use=SD&link=nav_sharpening - http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=product.wall.sharpening&end_use=SD&link=nav_sharpening
 
By clicking on each sharpening device often different techiques are recommended
eg some water best others oil or either.
 
However it does state once you start using a certain oil etc. should stick to it &
not risk impregnating it with a "combo" of different types.
 
Also does not recommend the use of petroleum based product.
 
As a point of interest I purchased a Buck filleting knive & found it was a dream to
use at first but soon became unsatisfactory & sharpening did not improve it much.
On closer inspection of the cutting edge found it had small nicks running almost the
length of the blade, which I suspect was fromcutting thru the bones .... but what is
the use of a filleting knife unless it will handle bones ( excluding heavy ones like
backbone ) ?
 
Was about to contact Buck to complain when had a timely introduction to DEREK
( a forum member ) & he dressed it on his mobile sharpening equipment proving to
have been fine ever since apart from being very prone to rusting unless meticulous
about cleaning ( which I tend not to be ) particularly subject to rust if housed in
the scabbard for awhile.
 
For anyone on the shore that would like their knives redressed then sharpened
professionally, the garden club my wife belongs to meets this Tues ( 7th ) & a guy
is coming to sharpen knives etc. for a mere $5 per item. Also anything that requires
sharpening eg chisels ( not saws ) garden tools, scissors etc. So anyone wants to
drop anything they need sharpened with ID tag att. ( also with $5 per item ) before
Tues can collect anytime afterwards.
 


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When you cry, feel pain or sadness, no one notices your sorrow .... BUT
fart just ONE time !!!!!!!!!!!


Posted By: Busted!
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 9:26am
There's the lesson, keep a crap knife for the tough jobs like going through the spine, and a utility knife for bait and other jobs.  Sharpen this one with a heavy edge (think about the edges of a filleting knife which is quite slime and light and then go the other way for a utility blade) and it will stay sharp enough for a days' dealing with scales etc.  Keep a hammer around for the back of your crap knife to help it through bone (you get the idea).
 
Keep your good filleting knives locked away (a good mate calls his good filleters his 'cocks' - never let another man touch them and as far as girls only ones that you would let touch your...) and notice the knives there...  Keep your old filleting knife around for doing the pin bones and skinning it will save chipping and rooting the really fine edge on your filleter (which should only be used for removing meat).
 
If you do that your filleter will last and stay nice and sharp.
 
As far as sharpening, different things work for different people, buy a crap $5 knife or two and have at it the only way to learn this skill is by doing.


Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 9:48am
I imagine that most of the damage to the edge, is cutting through the scales.


Posted By: bazza
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 10:24am
Originally posted by letsgetem letsgetem wrote:

I imagine that most of the damage to the edge, is cutting through the scales.
 
You could very well be correct on that Lgm, makes sense.
 
Once watched a guy filleting & he was first using the back of the knife to
scale about 25mm in from the top on either side then likewise just
behind the gill plates which are the areas we the unfussy cut thru the
scales.
 
Can remember thinking at the time "Gee that is a bit OTT" but maybe he
knew a thing or two. The lateral bones did not appear to bother him however
they are comparatively light & he was not cutting thru the belly bones but
guiding the blade over the top of them ... one of the few things I have now
learnt to do properly. The bottom of the fillet from tail to belly of course the
blade slices inwards to out lifting the scales rather than cutting thru them,
likewise the tail section.


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When you cry, feel pain or sadness, no one notices your sorrow .... BUT
fart just ONE time !!!!!!!!!!!


Posted By: tugboat
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 11:14am
Heaps of good advice in here, them green river knives are good smudgey, sharpen up real good, probally an old skinning knife.
Ive just done about 5 of my knifes and a few of em were real bad, chips along the full length of the blade, i just used the angle grinder running single full length strokes on about a 20 degree angle down both edges of the knife untill chips were gone, then an oil stone on the ruff side to form the edge and then the smooth side to polish it and a few strokes over the steel to make sure everythings straight, come up mint, super sharp!!
If ya not very good on angle grinder i wouldnt recommend it, use a bench grinder if ya got one!!


Posted By: Wefaknis
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 1:05pm
Holy hell..... I started this thread 8 years ago............ and I still cant sharpen a knife good LOL


Posted By: ROCKSTARS
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 4:16pm
hi guys, check out the edge pro knife sharpner, expensive but well worth it, just do a google search for edge pro knife sharpner.


Posted By: Derek F
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 4:57pm
I have an Edge Pro amongst a range of sharpening gear. The Edge Pro is fine for knives that are already in good nick.  There are too many badly damaged or mis shaped knives that they can't handle on there own. 
I find that a slow speed, narrow belted linisher (preferably with angle guide) is really good. It is quite quick, can reshape, and doesn't overheat steel.  You can do a double bevel and de burr and finish to a polished level with felt and jewellers rouge if required.
Would not recommend  most grinders as they are too fast, hot and harsh on knives. Certainly would not put quality and expensive knives near them.


Posted By: fozzie
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2011 at 9:34pm
ASL in Silverdale, do a damned good job, but still need a good steel at home to retain the edge.

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Dont take life too seriously.....no one gets out alive any way.
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Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 3:01pm
Ok Gurus what oil should I use on the stone??

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Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: Mr Moritz
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 4:53pm
Linseed oil rings a bell, but I could be wrong...Confused





Posted By: Catchelot
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 5:48pm
Honing oil, light sewing machine oil and parrafin oil aka kerosene.

Oil or Water?

Everyone knows you need to lubricate your sharpening stone with water or oil, right? So the question is which one is better. Neither. The purpose of a sharpening stone is to grind the edge and remove metal. Oil reduces friction and makes the process much slower.

Supposedly oil helps float away metal particles that would otherwise clog the pores of the stone. You can do the same thing by wiping the stone with a damp cloth when you’re done. Steve Bottorff reports that you can clean your Arkansas stones with paint thinner. Synthetic stones clean up with a scouring pad and abrasive cleanser.

According to Joe Talmadge, if you have already used oil on your Arkansas stone, you’ll probably need to keep using oil. But if you have a new Arkansas stone, a diamond stone or a synthetic stone, go ahead and use it without oil or water. It will work much better.

John Juranitch reports that in his company’s work with meat processing plants they discovered that the metal filings suspended in the oil on a stone actually chip and abrade the edge. Although these chips were only visible through a microscope, the meatpackers readily noticed the difference between the knives sharpened on a dry stone and those sharpened on oiled stones.

Waterstones are another matter entirely. Both Japanese and synthetic waterstones require water in order to cut effectively. Japanese waterstones can be damaged if used dry and must be soaked thoroughly before use. Waterstones wear very quickly, revealing new layers of cutting abrasive as the swarf builds up and is washed away. That’s why they are so effective. There is always a new layer of sharp abrasive cutting away at the metal of your edge. By the way, “swarf” is one of those cool terms you get to toss around when you discuss sharpening. Swarf is the slurry of metal filings and stone grit that builds up as you sharpen. Throw that into your next cocktail party conversation and just watch the expressions of awe appear as people realize that you are a sharpening God.


https://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036-knife-maintenance-and-sharpening/" rel="nofollow - https://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036-knife-maintenance-and-sharpening/




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"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau


Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 6:44pm
Well just used 3 in 1 singer oil and knife seem ok and a rub on the steel.Thought water but its called a oil stone.
Should I know get thinners and wash oil off and use dry??

Seems no real answer


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Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: Mr Moritz
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 7:45pm
Catchelot. Ahhh I see it all. Probably the reason I never had much success with a stone. I generally just touch mine up on sharpener, but the result is not that good. I generally go out and buy a new knife in frustration and then have to make sure my wife doesn't add it to her collection of my knives. Smile


Posted By: Fishinmad1
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2020 at 8:29pm
I use my 100mm belt sander (with the bag of naturally, fire hazard) with a 120 grit belt, do all my knives, and chisels, followed by a hone with a white Norotake stone finished of with a strop on my old pinnie belt which is about 60 mm wide. Even my chisels can shave the hairs of my arms. The belt sander is the secret as the steel does not get to hot.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 9:29am
I use my 100mm belt sander

 In effect you are sharpening with a convex edge...not flat angle Wink Its a quick way to change a edge form Flat (stone honed) to convex.
 You will find if use 800 or 1200 wet and dry on a bit of yoga pad sponge and strop (backwards like a cut throat on a leather strop)
alternative sides 10 times will give you a edge lasting 20 plus big snapper...or several weeks in the kitchen

The belt sander is the secret as the steel does not get to hot.
 
So critical.. once a edge is heated the ability to hold a edge has gone.. forever unless re annealed. Which is the biggest reason , even if get a good edge, it doesnt last long

According to Joe Talmadge, if you have already used oil on your Arkansas stone, you’ll probably need to keep using oil.
 Definitely..
 Water stones pedal powered wheels where generally use back in the day to keep the blade cool and keep the wheel clean.
 Metal build up in well used stones is a common.
 Also well used stones every so often where kept with flat surfaces....ground flat

 
you can do this with around 400 wet and dry..( using water or oil .. which ever the stones was initially broken in with) on a sheet of glass...
 It your stone has worn a curve you will not get a good lasting edge burr

Well just used 3 in 1 singer oil and knife seem ok and a rub on the steel.Thought water but its called a oil stone.

 3in 1 is a parrfin based oil Thumbs Up

Should I know get thinners and wash oil off and use dry??
 Try the re flatten the surface method above.. part of regular old school stone maintenance when barbers used to sharpen their own scissors, clipper blades and cut throat razors.




Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 9:34am
Thanks "steps" I knew you would have the answerThumbs Up
3 in 1 it is,Oh its not filleting knives rather a knife number 2 is using for his modelling.


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Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 10:10am
What meduim he modeling?


Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 11:30am
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

What meduim he modeling?
wax for mould making for his jewelry  just a hobbie.

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Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 7:09pm
I used to use a shoe knife for stripping cable. It was a carbon steel blade, and I found a quick touch along the blade on a linisher with a fine belton it, gave me an edge that would shave..incredibly sharp, and lasted reasonably well. Lazy way of doing it I know. But agree with the above comments of never letting the blade get hot.
No longer have access to a linisher, so the slow way of a diamond steel is it these days.

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you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2020 at 7:58am
a quick touch along the blade on a linisher with a fine belton it

 Again that forms a convex edge...
A fine flat edge is around 22deg..put a bit of harder work on it , the burr bends over breaks off easy
A heavier edge for heavier work has around 33 degs...burr has a more solid 'bass'  and is shorter, lasts longer
Convex, at the edge can get to near 90 deg depending of the elliptical curve of the edge formed, burr is very fine to next to nil, solid bass...
Can be compared more to something like a bit of cut glass.


Lazy way of doing it I know.

Nope.. I wish I had a linisher to get the curve of the belt when 1st converting a new knife to convex.
 After that a pad is all thats needed
A quick touch .. cool...quick touch... cool
Hence why use the long method to form that curve stropping on a foam pad and wet and dry.
 It takes around 1500 strokes each side to form a good base curve on a quality victory or green river  high carbon stainless or carbon steel blade.
 In the end the effort is very worth it espec when have done all the kitchen knives , the high carbon cleavers and the fish knives.
One realises this every time you go to  cut a tomato with just the weight of the blade ... carve a roast or break down a carcass.

Its one of those small things you will wish you had done it yrs ago.


Posted By: Derek F
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 8:26am
Pretty well all knives end up convex anyway because no one is perfect with a steel.
When I get them to sharpen I put back a double bevel.  About 18 degrees main bevel then tiny micro bevel at about 20 to 22.  This  gives a strong edge that has a small surface area so that people can touch up easily for quite a long time.  

Regarding stones I find most people who wish to use them start with too fine a stone and blunt knife. They fail or get frustrated and quit. I think people should start with a very course stone so they get somewhere fast and can see and feel the burr so they know they have got to the edge. That is a fine enough edge for many and they can strop the burr off on jute sacking, heavy cotton or whatever. It is easy to finish the edge from there with a finer stone if they wish.


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And the trouble is, if you don't risk anything, you risk even more...Erica Jong


Posted By: bazza
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 8:45am
Derek sharpened two or three of my knives & the results were superb
so reckon he knows what he is talking about therefore worth listening to.
Just a pity he does not live in Aucks as they are currently badly in need of expert sharpening.   


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When you cry, feel pain or sadness, no one notices your sorrow .... BUT
fart just ONE time !!!!!!!!!!!


Posted By: Derek F
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:10am
Thanks Bazza.  I do occasionally have people freight a shoe box of knives to me with a return freight ticket.  At only $5 a knife it still works out cheap for them.  

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And the trouble is, if you don't risk anything, you risk even more...Erica Jong


Posted By: riga
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:36am
Can I ask what grit you recommend starting on please?  For a stone.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:52am
Originally posted by Derek F Derek F wrote:

Pretty well all knives end up convex anyway because no one is perfect with a steel.
When I get them to sharpen I put back a double bevel.  About 18 degrees main bevel then tiny micro bevel at about 20 to 22.  This  gives a strong edge that has a small surface area so that people can touch up easily for quite a long time.  

Regarding stones I find most people who wish to use them start with too fine a stone and blunt knife. They fail or get frustrated and quit. I think people should start with a very course stone so they get somewhere fast and can see and feel the burr so they know they have got to the edge. That is a fine enough edge for many and they can strop the burr off on jute sacking, heavy cotton or whatever. It is easy to finish the edge from there with a finer stone if they wish.


Pretty well all knives end up convex anyway because no one is perfect with a steel.

 A steel just straightens the remaining burr..once the burr has broken off you have a blunt knife that needs re stoning/ honing, regardless of method.
 A steel will not re sharpen a blunt knife..
Not having skills to maintain a consistent angle on the final edge on a stone is why a good burr cannot be formed... and get a sad mixture of a flat hones and convex edge which doesnt work..and causes frustration

I think people should start with a very course stone so they get somewhere fast and can see and feel the burr so they know they have got to the edge.

Yep .. most ppl leave a edge way too long then try a fine stone, inconsistent and end up as I just mentioned above.. Coarse stone less inconsistent

 AND form the burr one side BEFORE going the other.. swap sides before the burr formed causes inconsistencys of angle and a poorly formed burr that break away too easy with use.
Form the burr one side , then the other .. move to finer stone  form the burr one side then the other..
 no burr dont change sides.


That is the most basic 'trick' secret to a fine edge.


When I get them to sharpen I put back a double bevel.  About 18 degrees main bevel then tiny micro bevel at about 20 to 22.  This  gives a strong edge that has a small surface area so that people can touch up easily for quite a long time. 

Yep

Both methods work extremely well...
 difficult to do free hand unless yrs of experience/ practice without a jig.. a reliable very solid jig..
A convex edge is basically the same, far more forgiving, and far more for giving for the causal person to pick up.. and a large old mouse pad and couple sheets wet and dry.
And when the edge drops, 10 to 25 strokes each side, and its back again.. no set up.

Always remember , any old knife.. or bit of steel, can be made razor sharp..very easy...
it is the quality of the steel
if ever been heated
 how it is cleaned (not dishwasher)
how it is stored  (not in  draw)
and the skill of the person using the knife that maintains a good edge for a long time.
 And that is where ppl also have issues





Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 10:00am
Can I ask what grit you recommend starting on please?  For a stone.

 Starting from scratch on convex looking at around 140 or 160 grit to remove flats and just form 1st burrs...Have a look at a svord knife edge next time in a H&F shop.
Then 800
 Then 1200
And if to have a further play , leather strop.. if can find one these days.. and keep in mind, the leather gets impregnated with rouge.. not just straight leather.


Posted By: Titahi
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 2:01pm
Ive got a couple of  knives that will cut paper vertically with no effort.

The quality and material used to make knives differs greatly...

Stainless steel takes a lot more work to keep sharp as opposed to carbon steel, so Im not convinced one method or grit is an appropriate  elixer for all knives

My Blue carbon steel cutting core between two layers of mirror polished stainless steel knife requires only a couple of swipes with a 3000 grit ceramic steel to keep sharp.

The Duel bullnose typically needs a few swipes with a fine diamond stick before  swiping with the 3000 grit ceramic stick

My wives victorinox needs attention with a course diamond steel, then fine diamond steel  then the ceramic   steel

It took me 25+ years of killing blades to finally learn how to sharpen them effectively, and Ive never used a whetstone or oil stone...
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"I love standing by the ocean and just knowing what its for"


Posted By: OuttaHere
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 4:20pm
Clearly there are loads of different ways to get a "sharp" knife. At the end of the day it's just removing material and shaping the edge... you will also get loads of different opinions about which edge shape is the dogs bollocks, etc.

Personally, I tend to shape the edge with a 1000 grit wetstone, then maintain them with a 3000 grit and a strop. But I'm a weenie, and I don't mine spending ages working on a knife to get it where I want it to be. Usually once the edge is formed how I want it to be it only takes 30 or so licks on the 3000 grit stone and a quick steel to get them back to shaving-sharp.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 7:24pm
It took me 25+ years of killing blades to finally learn how to sharpen them effectively, and Ive never used a whetstone or oil stone...

Yep and in that time from reading your post a HUGE part is  regular maintenance of the edge, storage and care.

Once the edge is worked nice, few quick strokes on a pad, or fine stone or diamond file is all thats needed... which ever is ones personal preference, find works best for them.
 I have used stones for near on 50yrs.. and stroping for fine cut throats..only changed to stropping in resent yrs .

Waiting well after a edge will not slice a tomato skin under its own weight..doesnt work.

 If you ever come across a very fine stone that has what looks like a drill end has been drilled into it..and wondered why...its for putting an edge back on a cut throat.
 Do not use it on a knife.


Posted By: fish-feeder
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2020 at 2:57pm
Good tips guys 👍

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dont get my personality mixed up with my attitude,my personality is me,my attitude depends on you.



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