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The soft plastic phenomenon
First hi all, good to meet you, this is my first post.
The purpose of my post it to hopefully shed some light on soft plastics and methods to use them, to help those of you just brushing the surface of this all new phenomenon. And to hopefully help you catch those first fish that get you hooked like 1000's of others on soft plastics. I am in no way a pro or anything like that, just someone willing to share some hard learned info with you to give you some ideas.
To start off ill just mention I am a kiwi who's been living in Australia for the last 4 years but frequently come back to get my nz kingfish and snapper fix. I am a plastic fanatic and throughout my post I�ll refer to soft plastics as "sp's " to save some typing :)
Soft plastics in some form or another have been around since the 70's in the bass hunting scene in USA but only in recent times have they migrated to colonize other countries such as Australia Japan and more recently New Zealand.
I have been fishing the plastics here for the last 3 years and they are so effective when used correctly that I may never touch bait again. Not to say that they out fish bait (don't want death threats :0 ) But a lot of times they can out fish bait in quality and sometimes in quantity too.
Here in oz it is still a craze and we have waves of thousands of dedicated fishers who use them on a variety of fish species, they have even spurred their own competitions such as the ABT (Australian bream competition) which is national and travels to all states. It has got to the stage that the shops here sell more sp's than they do hooks and sinkers, and the amount of finesse gear at hand such as rods, reels and line is amazing.
On recent trips to New Zealand I have noticed that the small range that you have available is slowly increasing but without a mad rush for them it may take some time. Hopefully soon you will have the range that you may in the future desire.
The problem with sp's is not their effectiveness to work, but the anglers lack patience and or faith in the lure's.
If a lure is presented correctly to the right area they are deadly. They will catch any fish that eat others and also some that do not actively eat other fish e.g. carp,
Personally I have caught snapper, kingfish, kahawai, trevally, barracuda, mullet, yellowtail, slimes, Aust bream, Aust flathead (dusky stargazers), shook (pike), brown and rainbow trout, red perch, carp, and even flounder all on soft plastics.
There is a wide range of plastics available but the two main players down in our pacific nations are Berkley and Squidgies (known as blue fox in nz I think) these two offer endless options to plastic fishing. Also you have your storm and tsunami lures which are pre weighted and great for larger species but lack the ability to be customized to suit different conditions such as current, wind, depth etc.
I personally prefer the squidgie and Berkley range for the sheer size of the range and options, a personal favourite is the Berkley gulp range of (bait/plastic) bait or plastic? there is a bit of controversy over this issue as they are not a traditional plastic, same as food source lures, but this argument is best left for the pros not us humble rec fishers who just want to catch fish on lures.
On fishing soft plastics.
Tackle.
To start with to fish a soft plastic effectively you need the right tackle. It doesn't have to be expensive but needs to be suited to the purpose. For targeting smaller snapper and kahawai and similar fighting fish, the lighter the tackle the better in terms of working the lure, casting and also for sport. For this application a 2-5kg rod with a 1500 - 2500 spin reel would be the go (my finesse outfit is a 2000 team daiwa luvias on a team daiwa pro caster 6'6 rod 4-6lb test however if this is too light I have a shimano squidgie spin 7 rod 7' and 2-4kg which I have caught numerous big kahawai and smaller kingfish on) where possible go for a graphite rod as the feel and action of these rods cannot be compared to the glass ones when fishing with plastics.
Next up is line.
Now I don't want to preach but braid is killer when fishing soft plastics because you are always connected to the lure no matter what the depth, and combined with the light tackle you can feel everything from the lure brushing against some weed or a rock to the subtle inhale of a lure by a snapper, being able to feel these subtle vibrations through your gear is a must if you are to be successful. However in saying that it is not at all impossible to fish with nylon lines but I believe that you will lower your chances of catching more fish. A fish may grab your lure and spit it out and you may not even know. I have had instances where on retrieving my lure and letting it sink I could feel that the lure had stopped in mid water even in pitch black conditions and on a slack line, struck and came up solid on a fish. Such is the importance of suited tackle. One other advantage with braid is the fact that it is thinner for the same pound rating, meaning better distance when casting. Example 4lb fireline is thinner than 1lb mono but used correctly it may but up to 7-8lb in breaking strain. I'm using 2lb platypus super braid on my finesse reel which is 0.078mm diameter. Pretty thin aye. But this line is more suited for the Australian estuary fish and I would recommend 6-10lb for safe fishing for most harbour fish.
A further note on lines is that you should always run a leader if you are using braid. Braid may be stronger than mono but it has less tolerance to abrasion. Also in most cases braid is fairly visible and a fluorocarbon leader of 4-8 feet is recommended. On colour of braid it doesn't matter if you are using a leader, if you are using yellow or pink etc it just helps to detect bites as the more neutral colours blend in too much.
On the rubbers.
Arr so many options, shapes, sizes, colours but don't be alarmed the old trout fishers have already figured this one out for us. "match the hatch" if you are fishing for some kahawai breaking the surface hunting anchovies or whitebait don't but on a 8" lure, go for something of 2-3" in a similar shape and size to the prey and worked correctly you will catch a lot of fish.
It seems strange to chuck a lure that is similar to the bait into a school of 1000000's of others and think why they would take this one. Well your lure just happens to look sick or scared and strays from the protective school and bang! You�re on.
this is just a guide line common sense should help you pick the right lure, as for colour there has been debate after debate on this so I can only give you my opinion not a solid "this is how it is". In murky water I would go for something that would stand out say bright pink for example. In deep or dark water or at night I would either elect for something bright in colour or in glow or I would go as dark as possible doesn't make much sense but it works.
Jig heads and weight.
well this is a tricky one, some times I go down to 1/22oz .5gm jig heads in good conditions and in say 1-2 meters but if there is a bit of current I may then got to 1gm 1/16oz or even 1.5gm. When you start getting to the deeper 10-20m of water then you have to think about the size of the lead you use, if 4gm just drifts off and doesn't hit the bottom then try a heavier lead. In the deeper waters especially when on the drift you can try using a 'drop shot rig' as the yanks call it. Use weight at the bottom of your leader and then coming off your leader above the weight tie on 1 2 or 3 plastics, similar to a flasher rig and jig it off the bottom as you are drifting.
On working soft plastics.
This is where the fun starts. There are many different ways to work your lure depending on the situation and species of fish you are targeting. Now I can�t list every possible option but I will go through a few tips.
Kings
normally with a king fish you can upsize your lure a bit although I have caught them on Berkley 3" minnows I would probably elect for a pre weighted lure because if you haven't been threading sp's onto jig heads for long it will be hard to get it to swim straight at speeds.
You can troll lures for kings which is effective but not a new tip. Also when you find a nice rock drop off a head land you can cast and retrieve across or near the surface and this will grab the king�s attention but good luck getting them away from the rocks :)
Also in the same areas you can let it sink a bit and do a fast'ish lift the rod to 60deg then drop the rod tip and wind in the slack and repeat to the boat. Jigging for them in deeper reefs will also be productive.
Snapper
Not only are they a prize on the table but they are also dead fun to catch on plastics. In the shallows you can cast out and let the lightly weighted lure hit the sand, then wind the slack and lift the rod with a few light flicks "lift flick flick" retrieve. when your rod reaches say 60deg then quickly drop it to horizontal and give a few quick winds to bring in the slack and leave enough slack to see it twitch or move to indicate a bite. More times than not the snapper will hit the lure on the drop so leaving the (controlled slack) line will indicate a bite. Sometimes if wind is an issue you can keep the line tighter however this may reduce the hook up rate slightly as it is harder for the fish to inhale the lure. This method will work on most fish and is the pretty much standard retrieve for sp lures. You can even get flounder on this method; I have never really targeted them but get them as a by-catch frequently normally when using 2" Berkley gulp grubs. Give it a go on the flats and it should go off.
While bait fishing I would recommend leaving a rod with a sp on it just floating near the bottom in the burley trail and letting the bounce of the boat do the working for you is method never fails to amaze.
When jigging using either a heavy sp or a drop shot rig as previously stated you can jig and get great results using the plastics, again jigging is nothing new so I don't need to explain this one thoroughly.
Kahawai
When hunting these bad boys or similar pelagic species you can adopt a different method. Cast out let it sink for 3-4 seconds and if no bites proceed to wind fairly fast back into the boat and while winding give the rod some sideways flicks to impart a darting motion to the lure. Also the lift flick flick method around rocks or similar kahawai holding areas will work.
Hope this helps some readers. Tight lines and good luck
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