After total dismantle  ( havnt done the gearbox yet )  I only broke 1 head stud   and 1 exhaust plate bolt . So I spends 1/2 a day  clamping the block to my drill press  , man there was some Kiwi ingenuity went into that  , drilled and extracted both bolts without damaging the threads  and then found the block was #ucked anyhow .  There is a lot of corrosion  on the head gasket surface in the ally surrounding the cylinder liner ,....... and there's another  thing , I got quoted 180 bucks per pot to rebore ( they are 12 thou barrel shaped ) and I can get brand new liners for $106  each .Any how the block was lookin repairable    untill I found a new one on fleabay  for $304nz   ( all prices quoted are in NZ bucks ) . The big ends are fine but the mains are a but rumbly ( you wouldn't re fit them  ) but that still means pressing the crank , but Mr Ching  also has a complete crank assy , with pistons . We haggled might even have got a bit heated ( I had a ball )   and agreed on a freight inc price  for a new  block  and crank assy inc pistons rings etc , on my door step  for $873.

 Apart from that I have bought a set of anodes from Eastern Marine  ( there wasn't one left on it  )  a gasket set  ( same set could be had  for either 55 bucks or 125  depending wether your lookin at Temu or Ali, got the reg/rect for the charging coil there too  (Ali ), new decals off fleabay  . Apart from all that  I have worn out a few elcheapo brass brushes  scrubbing corrosion offa it ...........which leads me to the real reason for the post 

 Can any of you recommend a decent paint to  paint the thing with ? I was planning to sand corroded bits back to metal and etch prime them , sand up the still good original paint and ......well some durable top coat . I wanna make a decent job of it as I will either keep it for ever  or ask fairly good money for it ( got receipts  and a few pix so far ).

 One more thing , how the hell do you manage to get water in the bottom cyl. A few of the ones on youtube did but Im buggered if I cant see how . Mine has a snorkel thing on the ex inside the lower leg bit . Apparently transporting it wrong can do it  but I don't think I could get water up that tube if I tried . The only way I could see is if one was to yank the motor up past horizontal real fast .... like so fast the water didn't have a chance to exit the leg and goes down that snozzle ...... beats me 

I scroll  Danger Marine(aussie) 

 I got a bit of time tho ...... seee , after saying to myself and the Mrs  ( yeah , I still fill her with false hope ) that I must waterblast the path  for  oh  about 3 years  I arsed up on it this am and landed on my only knee  and I cant get pants on it now  , so Im anticipating a week swilling beer in front of my new smart tv ........welll  #uckit , silver lining an all that 

 Oh yeah , the old crankshaft out of the outboard  had a Fag bearing on it , on a Japanese motor ?  Im thinkin Im not the first peep in there 

 After ordering a new block I found sleeves for 44 bucks , anyhow   the box of stuff  turned up   with one corner mashed in .

 . 

Inside I find a mashed piston 

  . I contact seller and they reply with a pic of a package  and tracking # addressed to me .... within a couple of hours , awesome 

But !   after a few stellas that night ( been watching Josh James ) I decides to  have a fiddle  so I splits the crankcase  ( with her nail file  ) and slots the crankshaft assy in there ........after a bit of head scratching and a couple more bottles of the main problem ....... the #ucking crankshaft is bent  ( pressed up  crankshaft ) and with the benefit of hindsjght I would say the ding in the bit of broken piston skirt  was done by the end of the crank  (they did line up in the box ) .  They were quite helpful .... as one can be  from China . Upshot is that I took it to a friend who builds his own race cranks   and he reckons an easy fix .... meanwhile  the chinese govern.......  nah  ,  meanwhile the seller has offered me another crank ( long as the box aint made in China   if I pay the freight    which was to good to pass up  so its on the way . 

 Apart from all that   got some etch primer , a tin of polyester finishing putty  and a tube of  space shuttle anti seize ( 48 bucks for 1/2  a toothpaste tube    )  and its been brush painted at some point  so there's a bit of sanding going on too .

meanwhile on the plus side  I have nearly enough bits to build another power head  .

In the end me and the crankshaft seller agreed that if I paid the freight ( 80 bucks ) they would send me another crank assy , and while Im thinkin that if they accept that the crank was damaged in transit  then they should pay the freight too , but  I was going to wind up with two new cranks  even tho one was bent  . When I say bent , for those who dont know , I really mean twisted out of line . These cranks are made up of several components that are pressed ..... like 12 tons of press , together . One then puts the crank on V blocks and using a dial gauge  you check the alignment , which is never spot on  after pressing , you then hold the crank in one hand and whack it with either a copper or ally hammer on the crank web  so as to get the assembled bits to twist  in the right place , in my case  pretty much reversing the misalignment caused by the transit damage .

Any how the new crank fitted perfect  so I got all keen and assembled the motor   .... and then pulled it to bits again coz I didnt check the ring end gaps ( they were ok ). Most of the new parts came from China  ( t/stat , waterpump , coil, gasket set ,  and a whole new carb assy  ). 

So  where Im at now is .......... there are some oil lines that  look like they are directing oil at the  3 main bearings  from the bottom of the transfer ports , and seeing as how the mains on the old crank were knackered I wanna verify the correct placement of these hoses as they were missing off the motor when I got it . Service and parts manual mention them but dont describe or show the correct placement . Any one here got a Tohatsu  9.9 to 18 hp  2 stroke twin cylinder motor they could take a pic for me please. The side opposite the exhaust  ..... starboard as it sits on the boat . 

 Thanks 

If you can't get any info I'd go with how I thought it should be. Mind you that could cost you thousands. Sorry, I'm no help at all

Here are the brass nipples  . I think I have sussed that the one  right above, under the carb .... that one goes to the middle nipple ( centre main ) , the bottom one on the crankcase ( from the bottom cyl transfer port ) goes to the top main bearing .  I think that this motor takes advantage of the oil that pools in these ports ( shoulda took a blimmin pic .... will get one tmoro ). On the bottom two mains there is a small gallery  that also connects these pooling areas to the adjacent main bearing as well as  the hose nipple .

 Oh yeah , the cleaver little Chinese  decided to change the factory  left hand thread on the crankshaft nose  to a right hand thread ..... which is fine if one just happens to have the correct nut ( m16 x 1.5mm ) lying about  ( one didnt ) ,  AND  I can absolutely guarantee  you that turning the engine over quickly by hand does produce a healthy spark