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Recommend Auckland under car rust treatment

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: Saltwater Fishing
Forum Name: The Briny Bar
Forum Description: The place for general chat on saltwater fishing!
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=136526
Printed Date: 04 Jun 2026 at 6:37am


Topic: Recommend Auckland under car rust treatment
Posted By: gongfisher
Subject: Recommend Auckland under car rust treatment
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2022 at 7:00pm
I’m looking for recommendations to have my cars under frame cross member etc rust/removed treated and protected. Some early light rust showing on the chassis and crossmember, trailing arms etc so needs to be sorted. Looking for recommendations as to some one who does a good job at a fair price. Also interested in what sort of cost you think I might be looking at. It’s a 2015 Mitsubishi Pajero sport.



Replies:
Posted By: Alan L
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2022 at 7:17pm
Steps will sort you out.
Part of the problem is you are looking at the outside of the steel sections. Easier to get at than the insides. If you are really worried, sell it? Move on.
Alan


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Legasea Legend member


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2022 at 8:13am
Ideally need to get done from new.
 As to who ..
We got a local engineering company to do the bighorn.
It was good before hand.. got steam cleaned, left to dry on hoist for few days .. joins sealed then body under spray.

 Price.. well depends on the labour that goes into it..
Quick clean and underseal  or full nine yards.

If you are really worried, sell it? Move on.Thumbs Up

What vechicle?


Posted By: Snuffit.
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2022 at 9:19am

Autoblast on Nth Shore. I had mild surface rust (beach launching) despite cleaning under the truck each and every time. For me, peace of mind outweighs the hefty-ish investment. 


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You cant eat my toast fish


Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2022 at 9:25am
I had the underside of my Ford Courier treated by Autoblast, North Shore. THey sand blasted it back to bare metal, then applied 3 coatings - one cold galvanising, one epoxy, one a strong paint to resist chipping. 
Cost was $2600, 3 years ago.
I liked their service. They dont do any panel removal etc.

I liked the sound of what they did - particularly sand blasting (much more thorough removal of rust and old coating, than brushing or grinding). 
Theoretically, if its completely free of rust and has strong coating, it should not rust for many years. 

However, I did make poor decisions, when I found rust right through an area of the floor (caused by my shoes dripping water down when I was trout fishing and sea fishing). I opted for a less-than- perfect job to grind out rust and then apply paint. Not surprisingly, it continued rusting. As a should have known (and been taught many times in the past) - IF THERES ANY RUST REMAING IT WILL CONTINUE TO RUST,  EVEN UNDER PAINT! TO STOP RUST, MUST EITHER REMOVE ALL RUST, OR CUT OUT THE RUSTING SECTION AND REPLACE. I subsequently had the rusting floor cut out and replaced. 

And it occurs to me, that I dont know what is happening inside the chassis members; hopefully rust free. Possibly that could be treated by injecting something inside, eg Tectyl. But I assume that would only work if there is no rust underneath.  


Posted By: gongfisher
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2022 at 10:43am
thanks for the feedback. I’ve booked it in with autoblast. 


Posted By: Snuffit.
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2022 at 1:08pm
You wont regret it Gongfisher, my usual mechanic mentioned that he could eat his dinner off the underside of my truck and that's several months and a few puddles later.


Originally posted by letsgetem letsgetem wrote:


I liked the sound of what they did - particularly sand blasting (much more thorough removal of rust and old coating, than brushing or grinding). 
  

Letsgetem, they use garnet powder these days. What I will say is that despite their (Autoblast's) best efforts to clean the vehicle inside and out, the garnet residue will work its way into every nook and cranny. Be especially careful to clean around the fuel filler area as you wouldn't want that stuff going into your tank. I also changed my air filter out even though they blanked the snorkel. Just in case. 

But top notch job.


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You cant eat my toast fish


Posted By: wayno
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2022 at 6:47pm
Not a recommendation as not in Auckland, but a potential heads up to Mazda BT50 owners...
Mine is a 2009, and WOF guy advised of a bit if rust showing on a seam on underside of drivers footwell/firewall that would not pass next inspection.
Took to get sorted at a local (Whakatane) workshop and during repairs he found the inner footwell was saturated below 2 membranes, meaning the carpet was bone dry and no moisture inside cab.
No holes in floor found and no obvious source of ingress, and no way for the trapped moisture to escape.
I have heavy duty rubber floor mats with 1" sides so not caused by wet boots after launching/retrieving boat, already checked mats for leaks/holes
He suggested I pop the passenger side floor trim off and check under that side carpet as well "just in case".


The only thing I could remotely think of was that I had a replacement windscreen about 3 years ago, and pretty sure the Ute had 2 others before I got it, outside shot, but maybe a small gap in the seal could be a factor? As mentioned, no sign of moisture inside the cab such as window fogging that I get in the car for a few days after driving in wet/damp clothes when caught in rain.

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