Print Page | Close Window

Knife sharpening

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: Saltwater Fishing
Forum Name: The Briny Bar
Forum Description: The place for general chat on saltwater fishing!
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=135652
Printed Date: 30 Mar 2024 at 5:03am


Topic: Knife sharpening
Posted By: Phantom Menace
Subject: Knife sharpening
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 10:37am
I would like to up my knife sharpening game.  Does anyone have recommendations for one of those tools? e.g. one that attaches to a bench and then is set to control the angle etc.




Replies:
Posted By: e.m.p!
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 10:54am
I’ve been using a couple of over the shelf systems, but get the best results with fine sandpaper (800/1000/1200) over a 3mm thick cut off off rubber lining from a diy tumbler. This is for my convex blades. The one with a scandi grind (Helle, Mora,etc) get the hard arkansas stone treatment. All of them are stropped (diy leather belt from op shop with green polishing paste) and a very careful touch up on an almost antique honing steel. Hair popping sharp!
The commercial systems are IMO not worth their money (haven’t tried the Ken Onion thing though) aside from a spyderco sharpmaker. I use that one to keep an already sharp blade sharp by using it after every filleting session.
The Lansky style systems are very good and produce amazing results, but after spending X amount of time assembling them I usually loose interest, haha.


Posted By: e.m.p!
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 10:59am
saying that - I think the scarysharp system is amazing built quality, but probably aimed at the commercial market.


Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 11:11am
Whilst not a NZ context, I love the tool comparisons this guys does. Buys all the products to test with his own money earned from the youtube channel.Doesn't have to kiss any sponsor's backside. Fairly robust testing of product claims.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBINMUdlJ14" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBINMUdlJ14


Posted By: Pcj
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 12:46pm
My knife sharpening have improved immensly 1 x thumb 1 x index finger same hand.All using this butcher sharpners tool from nephews work.Hold it one hand and drag knife down it. Pity he didnt tell which way round it goes but yep they're sharp.Round thing you hold in hand and draw knife through 2 blades,just helps keep an edge while working until you can a proper sharp apparently.


Posted By: ofthesea
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 8:38pm
Fancy grinders etc are all very well but the important thing is a decent diamond sharpening steel to keep the finish sharp


Posted By: shaneg
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 10:04pm
Get a friend or a professional you can take blunt knives to.
Some things like a blunt knife are best left to a pro. In my case lucky a friend is a master jeweller and who has honed his skills  even further with input from a South African game keeper. Saves on investment in kit and knowledge.
Also get a diamond steel for in between.
Soft steel (some cheaper knives) also easier to keep sharp than hard stainless steel.  
Wet stones also good if know how to use them accurately,  most of us don't.
Hate blunt knives


Posted By: Titahi
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2021 at 11:01pm
3000 grit ceramic stick is a nice way to finish off sharpening a blade

-------------
"I love standing by the ocean and just knowing what its for"


Posted By: MB
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 9:46am
After trying many gadgets, I've settled on the Warthog knife sharpening system. It's not cheap, but not crazy expensive either. All I can say is it works. All my hunting and filleting knives are sharp enough to shave with. I bought a 1000 grit stone to compliment the 325 grit and smooth steel that comes in the basic package. On balance of price, ease of use and results, it's a winner.


Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 10:09am
Originally posted by MB MB wrote:

After trying many gadgets, I've settled on the Warthog knife sharpening system. It's not cheap, but not crazy expensive either. All I can say is it works. All my hunting and filleting knives are sharp enough to shave with. I bought a 1000 grit stone to compliment the 325 grit and smooth steel that comes in the basic package. On balance of price, ease of use and results, it's a winner.

I agree with MB on the Warthog. It's reasonable price and quality and does a pretty good job.

My son is a butcher and he gets his knives very sharp using a stone and a steel. His technique with a steel is much different to what I always believed should be done.  I think most butchers that sharpen knives themselves still use a stone


-------------
Best gurnard fisherman in my street


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 10:15am
Covered in detail in old threads.
NEVER.. NEVER put a knife on a grinder, that bit of heat on the edge, all the hardenes / tempering etc has gone.. replace the knife.. will get it sharp but never hold the edge.

For the general novice, it takes a lot of practice to get good edges free hand on a stone.
The angle of the edge depends on the end use of the knife.. Cut throat razer to shave,, around 12 degree, but that edge with break off id fillet a fish.
 Carving and the slicing tip for skinning gutting, and slicing fish skin open.. about 22 deg.. do not run down a bone, the burr bends over.
 For hard work.. the main edge on a filleting knife.. 30/35 degs.. again will keep reasonable edge to chop up thru 15/20 45 to 70 cm snaps nps.

So a lot about keeping an edge is in the persons knife skills, not the knife. Even a good knife steel will not handle bad knife skills.

 Sharpening .. I use a pad cut off a red shed yoga pad.
 And if knife edge has already been worked . after 20 odd snapps and similar number KY. 20 strokes stropping alternative sides ( that going backwards, dragging the blade backwards) at around 30/35 degs on quality wet dry paper, wet 1200grit,  has knife ready to go for next time.
 After someone with bad skills, 10 times one side, build the burr full length of the blade, then other side.. 5 each side, 3 each side and finish with 10 alternative sides.

I now use a CLEAN ceramic 'steel' to finish after decades of steels, diamonds etc.. its about 1.5m long..

With longer blades.. you will find treating ste blades as t blades.. 1st is the straight edge to just past the drop (curve) at the end 30/35 deg.. and the end of the blade.. the curve to the tip.. do not miss the very tip.

A convex curved (look at the Svord knive edges) is far more robust and less maintenance than flat ground.. stones/ jigs etc... and far easier for general person to do.
 To start from scratch, with a good quailty kinife about 600 wet dry on the 'pad' ..
Do one side, count the stokes, untill feel the burr full length of the blade.. only then , strop the other side, same number the burr will form just before that number is up.
Then 10 alternative.  yep the knif will be already damn sharp.
 Now go to 1200 wet dry on the pad.. 1st side build the burr full side, count the strokes, repeat other side,
20 other side, 20 next side. 10 one then other, 5 each side.. now finish with 30 odd alternative.
 Rem you can treat the blade in 2 1/2s if wish, and I recommend to do so.. as described above.

Now test the sharpness of the FULL length of the blade.
 Place the blade vertically across the thumb nail.. and try to side it sideways (like testing a fish hook is sharp).. If sides, needs more work in that area...
2nd test.. I use those little office note pad papers. check the ability to start a clean slice many times down the full lengthy of the blade.
If all good its THEN to the steel, cermaic or what ever you prefer.
The steeling again is a lot of practice, muscle memory, and is done in the opposite direction.. ie the blade is the leading edge as in using a stone...
 Place the blade at the top of the steel, at the right angle , and draw down slowly.. repeat other side... and get faster only as you manage to keep the angle correct

Now if realy want to get fancy.. using a barbers leather stop.
 Think of it in terms as a linisher.. sages in the middle, so gives a slightly covex edge.. Also the leather strops have a poli9shing ruge worked into the leather with kero (paraffin) or bees was carrier)
 Again one strops, drags the blade backwards, alternative sides , correct angle, start slow till get the muscle memory right.

Important parts are.
 1/ And bit of metal can be made  'razor sharp'..  Only good quaity knife steels keep their edge.
2/ The biggest reason knives loose their edge is the persons knife skills.
3/ Getting the edge is all about forming the burr.. no burrs.. dont even bother.. find a wall and bang your head on it.

I grew up in a barber shop, with a old man who was a old school barber trading, doing scissors, cut thoughts, and kitchen/ hunting and filleting knives before I had reached my teenage yrs.

Hope the above detail how to helps.

 The convex edge holds the edge longer, is far more robust and yet is the easiest edge for learners to experienced ppl and open to a lot of tolerance/error.

PS after sharpen.. Always oil.. I use light spray of  aerosol  cooking oil, never put knives loose in draws to bang around.


Posted By: e.m.p!
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 12:31pm
lol - steps knows what’s up. As stupid as it sounds, but hand-sharpening your knives has a bit of a therapeutic quality to it. I don’t know if it’s the repetition of movements? Anyway, time and patience is the most important ingredient. And yes, ceramic stones are a must if you’re serious. Give it a shot on the bottom of a plate, or the inside of a ceramic bowl (often already has the right angle), but don’t get caught.


Posted By: Snappa Geoff
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 1:11pm
Iv'e found those cheap pull through hand held sharpeners that reshape your cutting edge should only be used on budget knifes for bait etc when your fish'n. You can wreck a top quality expensive knife in seconds if you choose to use them.  I keep my quality filleting & skinning knives separate and use a diamond steel.


Posted By: Titahi
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by Snappa Geoff Snappa Geoff wrote:

Iv'e found those cheap pull through hand held sharpeners that reshape your cutting edge should only be used on budget knifes for bait etc when your fish'n. You can wreck a top quality expensive knife in seconds if you choose to use them.  I keep my quality filleting & skinning knives separate and use a diamond steel.

Perfect tool for ensuring a Serrated edge with chips in it.


-------------
"I love standing by the ocean and just knowing what its for"


Posted By: Kevin.S
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 6:08pm
Originally posted by Snappa Geoff Snappa Geoff wrote:

Iv'e found those cheap pull through hand held sharpeners that reshape your cutting edge should only be used on budget knifes for bait etc when your fish'n. You can wreck a top quality expensive knife in seconds if you choose to use them.  I keep my quality filleting & skinning knives separate and use a diamond steel.

There used to be one of those advertised on TV lots, I used to cringe every time they showed a close up a knife being pulled through it and you could see bits of steel coming off the blade.

I just use diamond hones, but I'm happy if I can hold up a sheet of paper and the knife will cut through it.  I don' t need to shave with it.


Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 6:18pm
https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799%20" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799


Posted By: MB
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 6:53pm
Originally posted by kingiFiddla kingiFiddla wrote:

https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799%20" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799

Have to say those videos are the best tests I've seen on YouTube.


Posted By: BananaBoat
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 7:25pm
If you are in west auckland, new lynn area, bi-monthly, a fala comes to aussie butcher new lynn to do knife sharpening, 10 bucks ea
I get about 2yrs before mine need sharpening


Posted By: shaneg
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2021 at 11:23pm
Originally posted by BananaBoat BananaBoat wrote:

If you are in west auckland, new lynn area, bi-monthly, a fala comes to aussie butcher new lynn to do knife sharpening, 10 bucks ea
I get about 2yrs before mine need sharpening
That sounds very reasonable, can’t understand why you wouldn’t let a professional do it.  Even though we all like to do our own stuff, somethings are worth getting a professional to do. You might think you can do it well or better than a professional but I suggest trying one and then comparing would be a decent test. If you can do it better and cheaper then do it yourself. Chefs generally have knives professionally sharpened... just saying. Used to be knife place in Northcote that would take knives to sharpen, specifically for chefs , no longer going unfortunately.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 9:36am
Some great comments above

Iv'e found those cheap pull through hand held sharpeners that reshape your cutting edge should only be used on budget knifes for bait etc when your fish'n. You can wreck a top quality expensive knife in seconds if you choose to use them.  I keep my quality filleting & skinning knives separate and use a diamond steel.

You see the cheap stay sharp cut anything knives.. that what those pull thru are for. These knives have larger carbon crystals in them.. they fall out leaving 'broken glass ' sharp edges on the blade. So you have a fine very sharp saw blade.
 Pull a quaity blade thru and you get the stand up burr, sharp, and that breaks off, with no large carbon crystals to fall out.. edge just dies quick.

If you are in west auckland, new lynn area, bi-monthly, a fala comes to aussie butcher new lynn to do knife sharpening, 10 bucks ea
I get about 2yrs before mine need sharpening.

A aussie butcher who has done his 'olds school time' that includes detailed learning of blades, alloys, metallurgy, etc...not as in NZ now.. which is not even basic anymore.. hence why  modern NZ butchers, kitchens, meatworks, hair dressers barber send their knives away to be sharpened...

 As to the 2yrs.. that will be due to how you use your knives,  and the quality.
In saying that keep an eye on the sharpness of the full length of the blade, every 10mm or so...I doubt if it will be that sharp that long over the full edge, espec after carving a leg roast/ham and touch the bone.

 Our kitchen knives.. all kept dry/ oiled, in their own slot in a draw...get a ceramic  'refresh'  (15 strokes each side) when one doesnt easy slice, like butter the tomato skin.. usually once a fortnight plus. Every few months 10 alternative stroke stops on the 1200 wet dry pad and 30 on the ceramic steel...
My filleting knife, after 20 odd good snaps upto 65cm plus heap KY needs the same as the kitchen knives getting new edge.. only in the area I cut back up thru pin bones.. doesnt need any steeling during... The guest quality filleting knives need little more due to knife skills.

All our kitchen knives and filleting knives are old late 60s carbon green river, later stainless green river, and victory stainless made by Green river... All personally brought new by me over the last 50/60yrs.

A big secret in keeping knives sharp, and little work in doing so is do not let them get any blunter then the edge has just gone.. rather than gone blunt... loose the edge you then have to re work a new edge..
Its like everything, "work hard at being lazy"... good maintenance.
An old school attitude sadly too commonly lost in this disposable world.


Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 11:53am
Do men's sheds offer knife/tool sharpening lessons? I know some offer such a service but perhaps they offer lessons too?

I know this thread is in the context of fishing but if there was a general knife sharpening class somewhere, that would put them on the right path and in contact with others who can show them the light.

I use anything from wet grinders, files, stones, sandpaper, strops. Just depends on the application and none of them apply to kitchen or filleting knives because I gave up years ago in protest at how much abuse the knives were subject to by others who took a sharp knife for granted. So I don't sharpen anything that is not in my ultimate control. It's almost heart-breaking otherwise.

On a somewhat off-topic note, I have been collecting used-up or obsolete chainsaw chains in case I wanted to revisit knife-making but can't see it happening so if anyone wants them to make a blade from, they can have a big box of 'em.

I'm hoping if people look at that last video I posted, they'll see how well the relative newbie did with a stone and might get keen on trying it. But it's not for everyone (even if would like to see those skills retained and rebuilt amongst the community), whereas the Lansky system is practically foolproof.


Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:



A big secret in keeping knives sharp, and little work in doing so is do not let them get any blunter then the edge has just gone

AMEN to that Steps. Almost any cutting edge for that matter. If the edge goes off too often then the angles or materials are wrong for the application or edge is being abused.


Posted By: kitno
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 1:50pm


I bought a Lansky sharpening system about 18 months ago. Good timing as it was just before lockdown. I was a complete novice at sharpening knives and had no clue where to begin. After a few attempts with hardly even a pass mark I began doubting the system I'd bought. I decided to watch some utube videos using the Lansky. The tips I gained were the changing point for me. I can now confidently say I can sharpen a knife to a reasonable standard.
I done quite a few for friends now and some turn up looking like they've been used for troweling concrete. They're alot of work but can be saved. No more blunt knives in our kitchen.


-------------
Top 10 finish
2024 Grunter Hunter.


Posted By: Crochet Cast
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2021 at 2:10pm
Quite a good https://youtu.be/KY8jvFqpZ_o" rel="nofollow - YouTube Video


Posted By: Phantom Menace
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 3:24pm
Thanks all.  

I figured knife sharpening would be an interesting topic :) 

I knew the basics of sharpening ... I have struggled to get a consistently correct angle in the past hence the question re various "systems". 


Posted By: Catchelot
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 4:30pm
The bloke on this web site is a great filleter, with his knives are an adaptor that fits on the steel for the perfect sharpening angle.

Check it out...

https://www.knifetechnz.co.nz/%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.knifetechnz.co.nz/


-------------
"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau


Posted By: The Tamure Kid
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 10:06pm
Originally posted by MB MB wrote:

Originally posted by kingiFiddla kingiFiddla wrote:

https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799%20" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799

Have to say those videos are the best tests I've seen on YouTube.

good thread, guys. 

The one thing I didn't get in that guy's vid is the last bit where he apparently tests the ability of the edge each tool created to stay sharp after running through wood.
Isn't that down to the steel used in the knife's blade, rather than the tool? I often read or hear about a particular brand of knife's ability to "retain its edge" (not that its retention ability it depends on how you sharpen it...)
I have a Spyderco, which I find easy to use and seems to deliver good results. In the video it did a great job in the first sharpness test from blunt, but then sucked at the retention test - which is a bit alarming if the test is a valid one? 

Steps, you need to make a video re stones - you have a lot to teach, but I can't process technical instructions like that without pictures. Getting the correct angle seems critical, but freehand it's not easy. My poppa was a freezing worker at Westfield, and we have one of the giant turning stones they used at the works, so he would be spinning in his grave to hear me I just can't get how to sharpen by hand!!


Posted By: Marligator
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 10:48pm
Al that link does not seem to work.

Originally posted by Catchelot Catchelot wrote:

The bloke on this web site is a great filleter, with his knives are an adaptor that fits on the steel for the perfect sharpening angle.

Check it out...

https://www.knifetechnz.co.nz/%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.knifetechnz.co.nz/


-------------
http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Fish Addict
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2021 at 11:04pm
Originally posted by Marligator Marligator wrote:

Al that link does not seem to work.

https://www.knifetechnz.co.nz/%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.knifetechnz.co.nz/

Works for me Vance.  It does say page not found but if you click on one of the topics they seem to display OK.


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2021 at 8:19am
Good discussion lads. I'm a firm believer that if you can't shave the hairs off the back of your arm with a knife, then it's not a knife just a bar of steel.

Iv had a Lansky knife sharpening kit for quite a few years and typically get good results. I'd love to see those YouTube videos your talking about Kitno, might help me sharpen up (blatant pun intended 🤭) my skills.


Posted By: Fishb8
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2021 at 8:34am
I don't profess to be anything but a rank amateur at knife sharpening but I do like a sharp knife and use a diamond stick and that does a decent job.
I take it everywhere I go as you can't be sure that motels or AirBNBs will have sharp knives. I also take one of my own knives, too.


-------------
Be yourself; everyone else is already taken


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2021 at 8:55am
So true Fishb8. Me and my wife are on holiday on Waiheke at the moment and the house we have rented, I can't tell which side of the knifes are meant to be the edge. Always surprises me how many people use knifes that are so far from sharp, there not a knife anymore.

Luckily I brought my filleting knife, and a couple of small folding knifes. I reckon the rolling pin is sharper than the knifes in this place 😁


Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2021 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by The Tamure Kid The Tamure Kid wrote:

Originally posted by MB MB wrote:

Originally posted by kingiFiddla kingiFiddla wrote:

https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799%20" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M?t=799

Have to say those videos are the best tests I've seen on YouTube.

good thread, guys. 

The one thing I didn't get in that guy's vid is the last bit where he apparently tests the ability of the edge each tool created to stay sharp after running through wood.
Isn't that down to the steel used in the knife's blade, rather than the tool? I often read or hear about a particular brand of knife's ability to "retain its edge" (not that its retention ability it depends on how you sharpen it...)
I have a Spyderco, which I find easy to use and seems to deliver good results. In the video it did a great job in the first sharpness test from blunt, but then sucked at the retention test - which is a bit alarming if the test is a valid one? 

Steps, you need to make a video re stones - you have a lot to teach, but I can't process technical instructions like that without pictures. Getting the correct angle seems critical, but freehand it's not easy. My poppa was a freezing worker at Westfield, and we have one of the giant turning stones they used at the works, so he would be spinning in his grave to hear me I just can't get how to sharpen by hand!!


As he says it could be user error. Would need to do many tests on each knife to weed out the anomalies/outliers and get more reliable results.

I'd like him to do the exact same tests but with knives made of quality steel and compare the results.

Also note, he's very receptive to suggestions and often will do a series of tests along the same theme, as a result of being educated by commenters and supporters and their suggestions.

He goes to great lengths to answer questions too so perhaps it's worth asking him or other viewers on the video to come up with why the Spyderco results were so off.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2021 at 7:15pm
Been away  so catch up on a few comments above..
I'm a firm believer that if you can't shave the hairs off the back of your arm with a knife, then it's not a knife just a bar of steel.
 Totally agree. But keep in mind one can put a 'razor sharp edge on even the mildest of junk steels.. Keeping that edge is knife skills , with angle of edge and the correct steel for the final use Wink


 And very well illustrated by this comment

The one thing I didn't get in that guy's vid is the last bit where he apparently tests the ability of the edge each tool created to stay sharp after running through wood.
Isn't that down to the steel used in the knife's blade, rather than the tool?


Getting the correct angle seems critical, but freehand it's not easy.

Do that with say a scaple or cut throat razor and you will screw it even thu they are very hard steels..but have very fine angles edges. Down to around 12 or even less degs
 A quality working knife like a filleting knife.. with around 22 degs at the tip to curve and 30/35 where the main chopping is done...hell I have chopped heavy 12/24v automotive wire with nil effect.
 Also think chistles...Wink


Steps, you need to make a video re stones - you have a lot to teach, but I can't process technical instructions like that without pictures.
 M8 I have never taken a selfie let alone a movie/video. If someone whats to step up and do the filming/ maybe editing yep.. I would also like to do one filleting snapper/ ky /trevs type fish, recreational style (comms the 'wasted meat goes to fish cakes etc... rec filleting doesnt waste and if any good, get over 1/3 the caught weight nps.

Yes thats where the jig (Lansky)ltype sharpeners come in...and I have said before, get that burr full length  one side before moving to the other.
Cant get the picture in your head?
 A working knife will be about 30/35 deg angle with a very flat narrow cutting edge on a stone.. draw it on paper..

ok lets go to the wet dry sand paper (use wet to flow the metal build up off the paper) on the but of warehouse yoga pad.Now when you draw the knife backwards on the sand paper around 30 degs with the sponge pad under it you get a curve, rather than a flat edge on a flat stone...and if you vary that curve a few degs each way you still get your edge.. heaps user error tollerance due to the curve Wink
 Draw that edge on bit of paper.. its sort of bull nosed right?
Now look at each think about it which edge ( the 'bull nosed convex, or the flat edged on a stone is going to wear/ snap off 1st.. or put another way.. last the best.?

Same principle of angles, fine for razor, steep for working knife applies to a chainsaw. General chainsaw angle is around 30 degs.. chop down most wood like pine etc nps.
 Then go to cut manuka , purri , gum jarra... hard woods.. not as type (balsa wood is a 'hardwood',  they are just hard bloody woods...Do so with a fine angle on the chainsaw blade and it will go blunt real fast tying to cut deep in before the next tooth comes along.  Now put a edge on 35/38 degs, you have a more 'bull nosed edge, hardr the snap off. chip, but takes smaller chip also..

. My poppa was a freezing worker at Westfield, and we have one of the giant turning stones they used at the works, so he would be spinning in his grave to hear me I just can't get how to sharpen by hand!!

 And with all due respect, this is where the myths come in.

 Those guys ( I worked at in Westfeild in school holiday as a kid)  guys where on piece money and time.. So was always a balance between as much time on the line as possible with little as possible on the water wheel stone. They will say the hollow curve created by the wheel peeled the meat of better... nope just a edge real quick,  and back in the line.. just the finest touch of the blade on a bone.. edge breaks back on the wheel.. which made knife skills paramount..
 See where this goes?

 oh side note a hint.. your braid scissors stop cutting braid.. put a few cuts into a bit of 1200 or finer sand paper.. then try the braid again.Thumbs Up

Oh and in case many dont know.. you can sharpen knives(espec carving knife) machetes, axes for left and right handed... one edge is longer than the other... like a chisel.. which is one of the reasons a chainsaw wil cut thru a log in a curve, rather than a straight drop.


If you are local..or passing thru.... and a few ppl have dropped in over the yrs, including several forum members, to be shown how to, over a fresh ground espresso or beer.


Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2021 at 7:28pm
Great offer Steps. Members would be mad to not take you up on it.

If we want to talk chainsaw chain sharpening, this could get even more interesting, but a bit off topic as I've not seen many people fillet with a chainsaw, although I did see one guy doing it with a top-handle...after a few beers.



Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 8:48am
If if someone could also do a video at the same time?

Chainsaws, scissors, knives even handsaws.. the edge is pretty much the same.


Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2021 at 10:54am
Steps, regarding chainsaw chain, there might not be any point reinventing the wheel:
https://www.youtube.com/c/BuckinBillyRaySmith/search?query=filing" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/c/BuckinBillyRaySmith/search?query=filing

I don't use the standard raker gauges though, rather a digital angle finder (DAF) if I have to or base it on feedback in the wood.  What I like about the DAF is setting up chains accurately in advance for specific wood types.Big difference between pine and puriri, for example.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 10:20am
In the 70s /80s my cousin working in the timber industry contracting to fell trees..
Spent a bit of time with him in the evenings while he sharpened/ maintained his chain saws.
My own use of chainsaw isa very much home stuff. I never got the hang of 'free hand sharpening, much like guys above with knives and stones..
Cousin had professional chain sharpener that the chain was feed thru link by link and depth, length of each tooth and the edge angle was consistent to make quick straight cuts thru trunks.

Back in the 80s I brought a solid chain sharpener set up that clamps on the bar, then clamps each tooth, set the depth the lenth of the tooth and the angle, then feed each tooth thru.
When at the Field day chatted to some guys.. they where surprised at the unit I use.. at 1st they thought it was modern one off trade me that apparently  give bad results due to inaccraces and flex.  Once the knew it was solid cast old schoolish one thumbs up.

 yeah Puriri, gum, manuka if not right angle, depth and tooth length very quickly cause curved cuts, blunted up and get alot heat into the chain and bar, which is not good for the chain teeth ...even going back to pine the chain never seems to hold its edge again... get everything right and goes well.
Sharpen by hand or even just 'put the edge back on' a couple times in a row messes a good cutting chain up.
I dont enjoy chainsaw sharpening as I do with knives... even the garden spade, torpedo howe..
Putting a convex edge on these makes a huge difference over the std file.. espec the torpedo how clipping solid weeds.

The meat slicer, I leave that to the wife.. she used to manage run delis, so well got head hunted couple times.




Posted By: kingiFiddla
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2021 at 11:34am
Probably the best learning opportunity I had on chainsaw filing was being down to one chainsaw in the middle of nowhere and lightly cooking it (straight gassed) to the point it would still run but radically de-powered. With just a few days left to the job I had to suck it up and push on. If the chain wasn't kept in perfect condition, there's no way that gutless saw would pull it.



Print Page | Close Window