Leaf Springs on 40year old trailer.
Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=134377
Printed Date: 07 Jun 2026 at 5:30pm
Topic: Leaf Springs on 40year old trailer.
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Subject: Leaf Springs on 40year old trailer.
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 6:11pm
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I'm posting this there rather than my build thread in the hope of a wider audience, and it's a trailer question. My trailer frame has been completely stripped and is getting hot galv dipped. I am planning to paint the axle with POR15 then topcoat with a a zinc paint. I went back and forth on removing the leaf springs, as I have never done that before then decided to jump in. Off came the right spring. I cut the top off two of the bolts on this one as the threads were deformed. Then ran the nut off repairing the thread. The springs themselves look solid as, only surface rust but I am not sure about the bolts and that rusty pin in the middle of the plate. I don't know how it comes out though I assume it's possible. Whats the best thing to do from here? Replace the whole spring set ~$250. Replace just the bolts, or just clean and reassemble.  
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Replies:
Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 6:29pm
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The question is where do you stop spending money. I'm reasonably capable at fixing stuff but I just took my trailer to a local guy with a good reputation and said 'fixit'. He did wheel bearings, new springs, everything except the electrical which I did. All up it was 3 thousand bucks but that included a lot of new steel in a lot of places etc. A new trailer was 5.5. Border line. Looking at your pics I would just clean what you've got and replace the bolts. Leave the centre pin alone. Either that or spend another 250. The springs look way better than mine but I haven't towed my boat more than 5km in years. ------------- Best gurnard fisherman in my street |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 7:14pm
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There will never be an easier time to replace. $250 isn't much in the scheme of things but not inclined to spend it if it's not needed. I really do want to pull them apart to have a look though. For peace of mind if nothing else. If and when I do replace the springs (maybe some years out) then I'd be looking at the one piece parabolics. No way for salt water to get in between then.
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Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 8:36pm
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With all the effort you've put in. Go peace of mind. Replace. Be sure there appropriate, slightly over spec. Adjust the ride through tyre pressures. Immerse fully galvanised replacements in a lanolin greas bath, after they have aged a few months. Move on to the next part of the project. ------------- Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0! |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 8:56pm
| Here’s a question: Do trailer springs need bushings? The current ones are steel on steel. |
Posted By: Motorhead
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 8:58pm
Your set of springs look in remarkably good condition considering their age. The rebound clip looks really sound. I am not sure of your DIY skills (you are certainly doing a great job building your C17 boat) but you can dismantle the leaf springs by prying them off the centre bolt. Apply lots of penetrating liquid (CRC Penetr8) Keep them in order. You may have to drill the centre bolt out if it is rusted in too firmly. The centre bolt is high tensile steel. You can machine the hex of a high tensile bolt to match the location hole dimension in your axle. Purchase new clamp bolts and hanger bolts as well. If you cannot perform the dismantling and reassembling yourself it will be more economical to purchase a new set of springs as labour rates to perform this work could well be be greater than $250.
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OneWayTraffic wrote:Posted By: Motorhead
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 9:32pm
The majority will have some style of bush ie: Nylon or steel sleeve. It is also common to have no bush as the movement arc length is small and surface speed slow so the wear rate is low. The shackle pin is the sacrificial component having less wear resistance than spring steel. Is there any ovality present in your spring eyes?
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Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2020 at 10:25pm
I have no idea if the springs are original or not. The spring eyes seem round to my view, I'll have a better look tomorrow. The hanger bolt was worn down a fair bit. No idea how old. Already got a 8.8 bolt to replace it with. Just one. The guy at Blacks didn't hear when I asked for two, and I didn't check.  Have to make another trip into town. I was looking at some spring kits: https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/trailer-suspension/trojan-trailer-taper-leaf-spring-kit" rel="nofollow - https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/trailer-suspension/trojan-trailer-taper-leaf-spring-kit One issue is the dimensions: They are 770mm long, 45mm wide andhave a 16mm eye. The leaf kits in that length and size all have 12mm but with a bushing I assume that if I pop the bushing out, it becomes 16mm. I could use a 12mm bolt, but the eye hanger is fixed to the trailer, and getting regalved. That's 16mm of course. That makes the options a bit more limited. I can't put a 12mm bolt in the 16mm hanger eye, can I buy a steel bushing wide enough to go through? Alternatively pop out the bushing and buy a 16mm bolt. At this stage on the fence about fixing vs buying. I'll keep cleaning it out, but if I can't get it fully disassembled then better to buy new.
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Posted By: Motorhead
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 7:04am
If it was my trailer I would cut the old hangers off and weld new hangers on. This would make future changes very easy as they would match off the shelf items. Sometimes the spring eye is not formed concentric or finished appropriately so a bush is used. You may be able to remove the bush and it is ready to accept the 16mm hanger bolt. To allow the bolt, hanger, spring eye configuration you have is likely going to require machining or welding of some degree. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 7:58am
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Thanks for this. Food for thought. It certainly seems like you know your leaf springs. Like many things on this little project I am doing this for the first time, and just jumped in. I don't mind rewelding the hangers, but wish I'd thought of that before dipping the frame, rather than after. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 10:44am
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As mentioned above those springs look in rather good condition, including the centering pin. Always replace the bolts.. In most cases where a WoF fails its is the nuts and bolts rather than the springs hangers etc. Fully dismantling spring sets is not for most home workshops. Also because of this POR15 / anti corrosion paints dont last up well because of friction and movement between leafs. Clean up decrease, and anti rust treat with phosphoric acid. POR or what ever as your 'base' Then finish with regular maintenance of lanocane type product. Including back of hubs/ axles and axles. Going on what can be seen in the pics, the condition of parts etc, that is the route I would be going down. Long term if a person who uses boat goes home forgets there is a trailer under it, replace suspension...new suspension will last longer . If a person who washes down , lets dry, lubs moving parts, wheel nuts, and regular lancocoat maintenance , new bolts / nut, clean up.. And will last just as long , most likely longer than a full re fit. Also note suspension welding should be done by certified welders. |
Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 11:17am
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I have had 4 boat trailers. All had a single leaf spring that rusted very quickly, badly. Much quicker than the galvanised parts. The rust spread from the spring leaf to the near galvanising. Can you get spring leafs that are rust resistant? Other parts that rust far too quickly, include Trojan coupling parts, and wheel hubs and nuts. Its poor that trailer makers use non-rust-resistant parts. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 12:56pm
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I pulled off the springs, both sides. The springs do look good still, but I haven't been able to get them apart. Am replacing with new ones rather than muck around with the springs. Cost of a full set not so very much more than 10 bolts and less mucking around. I feel like I have a boat in me, not so much a leaf spring rebuild. There's also the chance to go down to a 1000kg set, should be a better ride. Found the drain holes for the axle, right under the rusted centre pin. One of those things that makes perfect sense once you have pulled it apart. I have sanded off the rust around where the bolts were clamping to the axle with a flap disk on a grinder, and after some consideration of pros and cons decided to try and rinse out the axle insides with water and degreaser It's sitting on the lawn now soaking. Will rinse and dry out thoroughly, using a hot air gun to speed it along and then (after painting) will fill them with oil facing up, and then clamp the springs on top to control interior rust. 
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Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 1:07pm
| I figure if I have the drain holes facing up, then a little fibreglass patch will permanently seal them. Either that or rubber plugs. |
Posted By: Joker
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 2:29pm
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Now you have the springs off and cleaned liberally grease them everywhere and wrap in plumber Denso tape and they will last another 40 years. I did it years ago and they lasted 18 years till I sold the boat. |
Posted By: Motorhead
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 3:36pm
Home workshop owners (DIY) are exempted from having to hold AS/NZS 1554 Welding certification for home built trailers, including welding on new hangers , stub axles etc. For WOF the welding will be visually inspected. If there are doubts with ones welding ability it is advised to seek a professional welder or a more skilled person to perform the welding! |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 5:25pm
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Joker: Agreed that the springs have a lot of life in them but I didn’t want to muck around getting them apart, the centre bolt is rusted right in. Steps and Motorhead: Never welded before, so I’d not choose to learn on a trailer spring hanger towed behind my family car with my pride and joy on top! Good to know that expert DIYers are allowed to weld their own. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 5:27pm
| After a good degrease and metal prep I applied the first coat of POR15 about an hour ago. May be able to get another coat on tonight. |
Posted By: Motorhead
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 6:59pm
Agree, leave that type of welding to someone with proven welding skill. Practise on bits of scrap if you feel the need to learn how to weld. |
Posted By: edge01
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 10:18pm
| Mate I would not touch single leaf springs. They break far too frequently. If they happen to break between the eye bolt and the axle mount there's nothing holding yr axle on and they come out the bk of the trailer and take mudguards and anything else out on the way thru. Good for trailer builders like me but no good for your bank balance. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 10:31pm
Bit of a worry. The leaf spring kit is already on the way. 
I tend to be careful with things like maintenance, not overloading and making sure bolts are tightened to spec etc, so hopefully I'll be less likely than most to see a breakage. Ordered a 1000kg set from Trojan. Sprung trailer weight is approx 200kg, boat and motor should be under 500kg. Leaves a bit of a safety margin. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 10:36pm
| I also liked the idea of being easier to keep them maintained, without rust getting in between. |
Posted By: edge01
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2020 at 10:40pm
| Oh dear. The ones that I have seen break snap right in the middle of the locater dowel. I've got some spare time atm if you want to ring me and discuss. 0272909645 |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 9:37am
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For future readers.. do not dismantle springs as a home project.. unless you have the correct equipment to to set and reassessment.. Seen a few horror things in the classic and hot rod fields over the last 50yrs with ppl with good intentions. Boat springs if in general good order a a good clean and paint, with lanocoate maintenance, same as for new springs will suffice. Any sign of excessive corrosion, or sagging, replace. Snapping as edge refers to is usually distortion/ fatigue by age and/ or over loaded.. usually both. If in doubt, replace. Sealing axles , glass/ grommets dont make the grade. The change in pressures inside due to ambient temps then drop into a cold sea sort of thing ends up sucking water/ air in and out, then trow in deterioration of rubber/ glass.. which is why they get welded. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 11:41am
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I had a chat with Edge. He's seen multiple examples of single leaf parabolic springs breaking. He has his theories as to why this happens, but after replacing 10+ broken springs on trailers that would put anyone off. I am looking into it, but I think that if I'm really careful with tightening the u bolts to spec, ensuring that there is zero play around the spring/axle connection I will probably be fine. Probably. Multi leaf springs can get salt caught in between, but provide mutual support if the main spring breaks. If a mono spring breaks then there is no support and axle loss is inevitable. I don't have a torque wrench for the U bolts but do have a spring scale and a known length spanner. https://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Ubolt_Information.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Ubolt_Information.pdf
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Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2020 at 5:02am
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Scary about single springs was wondering why I dont see heaps of them out there.
------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2020 at 8:40am
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Edge did say that most broke around the locator pin which is the weakest point of the spring. As a matter of Physics, the only way that this could possibly happen is if there is flex or play between spring and axle. No flex equals no stress. I do wonder how many of those trailers were torqued correctly (65Nm trojan recommend which is about 26kg on a 12" spanner) and retorqued after the first 100km and regularly thereafter. I certainly didn't know anything about this until Edge's post. How many people just tighten to 'good enough' or use a rattle hammer. I'll also be inspecting the springs regularly for signs of any damage, wear or cracks etc, and replace as soon as I see anything of concern. I know that multi leaf springs can get corrosion in between, and single leafs eliminate this risk, which I really like, and I tend to drive carefully and not overload trailers, but I am still reconsidering the whole idea. I could freight them back to Marine deals and ask for Multis. Got several coats of POR15 on the axle and hubs. Looks good, even though I had a gust of wind blow dust and leaves on it. I had decided to paint in the tent rather than the garage to keep the wife on side, and was a bit careless in not shutting the doors completely. Good old NorthWester.
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Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2020 at 8:52am
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https://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/mono-leaf-springs-vs-multi-leaf-springs-eaton-spring-0#.X4IQhubiuM8%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/mono-leaf-springs-vs-multi-leaf-springs-eaton-spring-0#.X4IQhubiuM8 https://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/mono-leaf-springs-vs-multi-leaf-springs-eaton-spring-0#.X4IQhubiuM8%20" rel="nofollow - |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2020 at 9:27am
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Never been a fan of single leaf either, few old european classic cars had them, often didnt end well. I don't have a torque wrench for the U bolts but do have a spring scale and a known length spanner. Simple.. 1/ do up good and firm,but not hard.. near like a wheel nut. Key up your local garage workshop to put their torque wrench on for final torque. I go by Chevy leaf spring U bolt specs 65lb for 1/2" and 85 lb for 5/8" 2/ Even an elcheapo supercheap torque wrench is surprisingly accurate. Back in the day, seems workshops dont do it any more. They would line up different fixed nuts bolt on the bench, get the apprentice, over and over.. tighten the different sizes with different wrenches, and then confirm the torque with a torque wrench. Biggest issue with loose wheel nuts is nuts that have been over torqued, stretched the threads on the stud and nut, which effects the ability to stay tight, and the sheer strength of the stud. How important is toque? Huge, from metering blocks, fuel bowls, base plates, top and bottom on holly carbs , suspensions, wheel nuts.. Every basic home workshop should have a basic torque wrench.. so much get blamed on faulty parts when it comes back to wrong torques. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2020 at 12:33pm
Final result of the POR15. Couple of little spots on the hub edge where it was lying on wooden blocks. No paint there. Will sand those spots and zinc paint.  I went around the dust cap with a razor blade halfway through cure. Should be enough to allow it to come off. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 12:45pm
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Spring kit arrived. The 12mm eye is over 16mm if I remove the bushings. Condition of the kit looks ok, though there's no indication of whether NZ made or a China import. It doesn't really fit the trailer (I thought I'd be able to make it work without welding) so have asked Marine Deals if I can use their trouble free return policy and get a custom set made by Bellamy and East in ChCh. The guy there reckons single leafs are fine for saltwater use, has them on his own trailer but recommends a backing plate welded to the axle for clamping, as 50mm isn't a lot of clamping area, quality u bolts torqued up tight, and strong springs. $200 plus GST for the springs, ubolt kit etc. I think I will go down that route. Shame that they will need to shave off some of my nice new POR15 to weld on the backing plate but oh well.
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Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 4:49pm
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I have never seen or used a backing plate welded to an axle. Waste of time. A properly assembled set of u bolts is perfectly adequate. ------------- you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while... |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 5:44pm
| Maybe they will change their minds when they see the axle. From a Physics point of view I will sleep better with anything that improves the spring/axle connection. Bellamy and East make a lot of springs, and that connection is responsible for a fair few crashes. As long as I get a robust connection for a reasonable price, and easy care washing it's all good to me. |
Posted By: edge01
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 7:11pm
well, I've seen just about everything. Even some muppet who took the locator dowels out of his springs and then drilled holes right thru said springs so that he could bolt the axle to the spring. needless to say that came to a sticky end. wiring seems to be a dark art to some people. its easy if you know what you are doing but I have seen some messes. What ever you do DONT make the trailer the negative link in the circuit. ( ie dont attach your negative to the trailer. That is what the negative pin in the wiring plug is for) if you don't know what you are doing, take it to someone who does.
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Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 9:19pm
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Ok, I'm going to retract, I used to build trailers for an Auckland hire company, and I now recall that I used to weld a plate to the axle with 4 holes in it and use a matching plate with standard bolts to sandwich the spring.. Hire trailers get thrashed.. However I have never done it on any of my personal trailers.. And one of those had single leaf springs.. And a drop axle.. Never an issue. But my experience does not over ride anyone elses.. ------------- you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while... |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 9:40pm
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Good on you for saying that Dave. I only had a chat with the guy on the phone and he mentioned that as a possibility when I talked about wanting robust and easy to wash over other concerns. He did say he'd need to look at the axle. He was going to recommend multileaf until I told him I'll be using it in the salt. He runs singles on his own. Just a question: Where are most trailer springs and components sold over the counter in NZ sourced? NZ made or from some backyard forge in China? Anyone know?
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Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 9:45pm
| Another observation: A lot of hands on engineering types tend to bias towards what they know works. That might be why I've gotten conflicting advice from different guys. |
Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2020 at 4:37pm
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If you ask too many people, you will get too many different opinions. Ask a couple of people you k ow and trust, and if they say similar stuff, go for it. On the idea of a backing plate, I can see how it would spread the load on the single leaf spring, away from the locating pin, and if your plate is thick enough, you wouldn't need to have a hole in the axle, just a hole in the plate to locate the spring, and your axle would stay sealed. I have had some of my trailer components spray galved and they seem to be holding up fine after a season compared to hot dipped. ------------- you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while... |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2020 at 9:01am
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Auckland hire company, and I now recall that I used to weld a plate to
the axle with 4 holes in it and use a matching plate with standard bolts
to sandwich the spring.. Hire trailers get thrashed.. Have a look at 60s/ 70s Chevy diffs...They have a gusseted plate , rubber pads and locator pin goes thru the rubber pads A link further back describes early camaros as having single leaf.. Some of the very early 1st gen 6 cylinders did..Small block and Big block had multis with plates as above. Then GM went to multi leaves. I still have the AIMs and updated bullets for 1st gen Camaros AIMs = factory Assembly Instruction Manual |
Posted By: Nickb1
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2020 at 7:11pm
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when you mention the "drain hole" in the axle, its not actually a drain hole at all, its designed for the locator pin to sit in when mounting the springs the the axle. personally If i could get away without it and have it fully sealed so water could never get it then that would make the axle bulletproof from rusting inside out as they tend to |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2020 at 8:21pm
| Yeah others have pointed that out since as well. I like the idea of sealing them up or putting the axle upside down and filling with mineral oil (the food grade stuff.) |
Posted By: edge01
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2020 at 10:53pm
You can do this easily. Just weld a plate on the top of the axle with the correct size hole in it. It means that yr boat might ride 20 mm higher but you can then fully weld yr axles into a piece of galv box. Fully sealed. No salt water inside. Just remember that if you do it this way the galv people are reluctant to re galv them. They will drill holes to let the galv in and the air out. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2020 at 7:34am
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I think the "drain holes" mentioned are referring to the They "will drill holes to let the galv in and the air out." |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 5:09pm
| Well after all this fluffing around have decided to go back to the old springs at least for the present. Cut out the centre bolt but couldn’t get the rebound clip bolt off. Not sure whether to cut it or not at present: leaning toward leaving it for now as not sure where I’d get another. I could try bending it off but not sure if that would weaken it. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2020 at 6:11pm
| The last dependent on whether I can get them apart! |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2020 at 8:02am
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I mentioned previously. If dont have a full workshop, and know and experienced in what you are doing with leaf springs. DO NOT dismantle or mess with them. If a good soak/ media blast and clean up as they are, doesn't get a set that is in reasonably good condition, back to have a bit more life left. Then Replace. I learnt, with all good intentions, the hard way many. decades ago. Several things I dont do even thu know how to. 1/ Steel Hooped roof linings in car 2/ Final crown/ pinion set up of a diff 3/ mess with leaf springs in any way other than clean them up. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2020 at 4:35pm
| It's academic anyway. Got one set apart, but the rebound clip is so rusted in it's not coming off. Other set has the centre bolt stuck even after cutting the nut off. Will replace. |
Posted By: Farmer_Dave
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 5:31am
| Just curious why you went for painting the axle over galv dipping it? I've just built a new axle for mine and debating what to do as I want to use the damn thing not wait for the dippers.... contemplating leaving it raw until I can get some time to dip. |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 6:48am
EEK! Dont use bare it will then corrode internally which you cannot strip off before dipping - get it galv first and pay for extra dipping if you can anything to rust proof it to the max if you intend to keep for more than a few years !
------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 7:30am
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To hot dip the axle I'd have needed to strip the hubs off so didn't. Ironically I ended up taking them off anyway. I figured that POR15 with spray galv on top for appearance and UV protection would protect it fine. Also the issue with trying to galv over any unknown internal corrosion as MacSkipper alluded to. With a new axle I'd hot dip it every single time. If you've built it so that it's sealed up internally then they won't dip it, and POR15 (an incredible paint if applied exactly as the instructions say) will keep rust off for years. Ultimately the difference is between an old axle and a new one. If I was doing it all over I'd have a more careful think about drilling more drain holes in it and dipping the whole thing.
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Posted By: Farmer_Dave
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 8:59am
Not sure I agree. Seen many a rusty item waiting at the galvanisers to be processed, everything is acid dipped prior to galvanising, the axle design is fully open so no risk of it retaining anything. |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 10:39am
good point - the acid will go where the water goes its just they corrode so quickly that i would give it the best start possible - also if you bolt it all up and use you have to dismantle and get it to them - personally I would struggle to get round to it so rather finish now and be done. ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Farmer_Dave
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 11:46am
Your 100 percent correct on that, I should have done this job in the winter instead I waited till a week before my wife has planned we use it, also the galvanising company that is local is apparently down for maintenance. Bad planning on my behalf. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 9:49am
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Im with Mac on this Even thu acid dip gets inside, it doesnt get into everything, crap still lays inside, possibly doesnt fully dry out..either way. The hot dip is contaminated. On outside is easy a quick media blast, and if dipped withing 20 to 40 mins (depending on days humidity and temp) you get a good long lasting galv. Same applies to painting steels.. must be sealed before microscopic oxidation takes place. I have nothing to base why 50yr old trailers are still as good as new and modern trailers corrode in a few yrs.. But believe the time between steel prep and sealing has a lot to do with it... |
Posted By: Farmer_Dave
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 6:10pm
Ended up painting the damn thing, of course this has no benefit to the inside of it. On the plus side it only cost me 40 dollars for the box section and some time on the mill lathe and welder to build up and I know what im doing now. (Drop axles a bit tricky)
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 7:05pm
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Galv guys cant do it Cost $40 plus a bit of gas bits 'n peices. 1st build , makes sec 1/2 or less time. And want to go fishing. M8 I wouldn't even bother painting... just go. Will last couple yrs at least. In that time can build/ galv and have sitting ready to fit for a bit of spare time between milkings and feeding out. Amazing how things can turn around so different when a few other bits info gets thrown in  |
Posted By: Farmer_Dave
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 8:13pm
I'm confused lol, what's your point? |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 8:23pm
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Just curious why you went for painting the axle over galv dipping it?
I've just built a new axle for mine and debating what to do as I want to
use the damn thing not wait for the dippers.... contemplating leaving
it raw until I can get some time to dip. Throw it on go fishing m8. As you say if need to build a new one, no big deal or cost. |
Posted By: Farmer_Dave
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 8:30pm
| Oh right. Ideally I would get it dipped but would have to send it out of town as i rang taranaki galvanisers and they not back up and running yet and have big backlog. Not sure what the implications of me painting it will now have on future galvanising.... 13 years on the original axle which was galv and hardly saw sea water.... |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 8:41pm
------------- Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56 |
Posted By: Farmer_Dave
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 9:03pm
That's the plan 👍 |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2021 at 8:07am
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Not sure what the implications of me painting it will now have on future galvanising They will just give it a media/ sand blast... Any issues on the inside of the box section mentioned above would still exist thu. Could drill holes fill with oil, and re plug. Tap a hole, bolt to seal maybe. |
Posted By: rusty360
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2021 at 6:44pm
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Best thing for axles is to seal them completely so the water doesn't get in. I've seen super rusty box section from the outside that when cut open looks brand new inside. Nearly all boxsection trailers rust out from the inside, as one the galv coating won't be as good, two ya can't wash them out 100% |
Posted By: Nkhan
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2021 at 12:01am
Trojan and the other common names around are getting stuff overseas for years. You dont get a NZ made coupling or a hub/brake set!!!!!
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Posted By: Nkhan
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2021 at 12:05am
We have never welded a backing plate on an axle as mentioned because we have seen way to many axle failures on that edge. Having it welded affects it and leads to cracks over time. People ask us to do them because they wont have to use a U bolt |
Posted By: Pcj
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2022 at 1:45pm
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After looking at the trailer and noticed that the tires are just rubbing the top of the guards,Decided should remove and replace springs,3 leaf spring,rated 1000kg,Hmm what harm can it do to go heavier?? Got some from BNT(neighbour got a good deal for me)went with 1500kg 5 leaf now fitted have a good 40mm between tyre and guard,left side was cut everything with a cut off blade,right side yep all undid,so guessing right been done recently but going to replace do both sides.2 hrs done. Thinking they collasped fast as checked when purchased and dont know I thought to check today.Being 3 trips out. Non Galvinsed but good coverage of marine grease ------------- "Times up" |