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Ramco 5.5m Motor Query...

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Category: Saltwater Fishing
Forum Name: The Briny Bar
Forum Description: The place for general chat on saltwater fishing!
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=134222
Printed Date: 29 Mar 2024 at 12:52am


Topic: Ramco 5.5m Motor Query...
Posted By: Maydogg
Subject: Ramco 5.5m Motor Query...
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 6:21pm
Evening Gang,

Currently have a 2008 Merc 60 Bigfoot 4 Stroke but the whole trim system is corroded and given up the ghost.

The boat says it is rated to 75hp, but as is an older boat, not sure about buying a brand new motor for it. ideallly get something second hand at this stage.

The problem is - 75hp on TM etc are't hugely common. I would like to stay 4 Stroke otherwise I feel i'm going backwards to 2 stroke.

The 60hp is probably slightly under-powered as is noticable getting on the plane with 3+ people and a heavy chillin bin + gear.

Any thoughts options, or if anyone knows of anyone/ place selling a second hand 75hp 4 stroke, this would be much appreciated.

Cheers! Jason Big smile



Replies:
Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 8:30pm
You also might find the extra weight of the 75 4/ upsets the ride too.Though maybe do some homework the new(er) 75's might be similar weight to your older 60. On my Dominator I replaced the merc 75 2/ with a 60 suki 4/ and it performed very well. Even better when I put in an under floor to lower weight and move weight forward. Like you say maybe a little under powered but 1/2d my fuel bill. Yes I'd avoid putting new motor on her as won't get that back on resale. 


Posted By: The Tamure Kid
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2020 at 8:53pm
When Steps has finished his evening cocoa, hopefully he'll open up his treasure trove of data and give you the power requirements.


Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 7:28am
Thanks for this mate. Yer I’d be happy with a 60. The Bigfoot makes it easier out of the hole but wouldn’t hurt to get a stainless prop also I guess.
What did you use for underfloor fuel? Was it an off the shelf adaption from something or custom boxing? Would you have a rough cost for that?
That’s another thing I was thinking about in terms of weight - could free up a little space at the back with fuel tanks etc


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 9:50am
When Steps has finished his evening cocoa, hopefully he'll open up his treasure trove of data and give you the power requirements.

Nah , busy shucking scallops from yesterdays haul.. All very fat, yet 4 days ago where rather mixed.

I dont have the older ramco 5.5m on in my data base so require bit info.

Normal load, with gear what would you estimate the total gross weight on the water?
With current engine, normal loaded what was the WoT speed?
Did you have permatrim on the cavitation plate?

Top speed only matter as much as the top speed of a tractor or the wifes shopping basket car.. In saying that it is a very reliable guide line to how a planning hull performs in chop, wakes, bars and general economy and safety.
 The difference between a min and well powered is like having 2 completey different boats.
 General rule of thumb for around  5.5m hull general use boat,  WoT
 Well powered WoT around 42 /43 mph
 Over powered 48/52 mph
Min powered around 36 mph.

Well and over powered, when in chop can set the throttle . stay on the plane without working it or fall off the plane.

From other similar boats  I guesstimate 3 guys ave say 85kg, fuel gear etc gross weight on water would be around the 1000 to 1100 kg.
 IF the guesstimate is ball park right with 60hp 4S you would have a WoT about 32 mph
That would make well powered for a general use boat around 1100 kg normal load around the 100/ 115 hp.

 I do not know the manufactures actual specs.. re powering to the max in effect gets you a totally new far improved performing hull in chop .. well across the board.

And no issues when comes to get on the plane.
 If a boat has issues getting up, then either the engine is set too low, wrong prop  or just doesnt have the low rpm power to get it up over the bow wave well.

Weight.. as engine weight increases with power, it follows that when moving the stern still lifts up fine. You will sit a little lower at the stern .. couple inches..at anchor.
 

 Stainless prop..?
 The difference is where the load on the prop (big heavy boat) and the power at the prop ( lot of power at that rpms) is able to twist the alloy blades enough to effect the slip and pitch of the prop specs.

Also is often go into shallow water, around rocks to clip the prop, that puts huge loads on gearbox ( $2.5/ 3.5 K) and power head with a stainless prop. An alloy absorbs far more of the shock and will bend break.

So when does that load come into effect? Starts with about a 1400kg boat, not enough to make any difference  and  starts to be noticeable when get up around 1800kg ( 6m +) at cruise and above.

 Im running a 5.5m boat around 1200kg  bitover powered with 150hp and have a alloy prop... Yes when crunch the numbers above normal 32/ 34 mph cruise , its just starting to be just significant, and significant over 45 mph.. a speed that I very rarely use and if don only for short distance.

There is the sale a person propaganda world and the real would of practical application backed by science.

And very important.. you CAN NOT fix a min or ok powered boat by changing the prop. over propping may seem to help, but just loads up the powerhead to eventual slow death.





Posted By: Catchelot
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 10:20am
Originally posted by krow krow wrote:

You also might find the extra weight of the 75 4/ upsets the ride too.Though maybe do some homework the new(er) 75's might be similar weight to your older 60. On my Dominator I replaced the merc 75 2/ with a 60 suki 4/ and it performed very well. Even better when I put in an under floor to lower weight and move weight forward. Like you say maybe a little under powered but 1/2d my fuel bill. Yes I'd avoid putting new motor on her as won't get that back on resale. 

That Suzi 4/ was 70 hp mate, not a 60Ouch


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"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau


Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 10:33am
Wow - thanks for this Steps. Lots of info to process there.

Normal load, with gear what would you estimate the total gross weight on the water?
I am not 100%, but have been told by a few people that with full 25l and 40l totes with a chilli bin of bait and rods etc it would be approx. 750-800kg - add 85ish kg for 2 POB and you have say around 950kg odd.

With current engine, normal loaded what was the WoT speed?
WOT = Wide Open Throttle I assume? Using the situation above going out for a day of fishing in fairly calm seas  would be maxing out at around 26 or so knots fully trimmed up using a standard black composite merc prop (so slightly under at about 30mph?)

Did you have permatrim on the cavitation plate?
There is not cavitation plate on the motor.

I do also find that my boat is on the lighter side from what I have seen in other 5.5m options - just not a lot to it. They seem to be a bit more slender. This also makes them quite 'tippy' at rest. 
It moves around a little when going through chop, but the hull seems to perform fairly well.

I also had the height of the engine adjusted to try and get me out of the hole better as was really lagging prior. It is a lot better, but still feels a bit slow in the bum when taking off.

See photos - you will also see the faulty/ corroded trim system.








Posted By: Schampy
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 4:55pm
Always a tricky one. A new 75 is gonna be 15k  plus fitting. An yes they never seem to be many on TM.  Options are Go for a 70 yam..... prolly the cheapest.
75 Etec. basically rolling the dice there.  What about a 90 yam 2 stroke. At least the extra grunt will  help provide better fuel economy are lite weight and there seems to be a few around if you look. Or cheapest option is getting the ram replaced. Surely you would do that before you sold the engine anyways? 


Posted By: Catchelot
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 5:04pm
I cannot see a 90 2/ being more economical than the 75, you don't get extra grunt without burning more fuel mate.

I would be looking at 4 strokes if the weight factor and budget is ok.


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"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau


Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 5:32pm
If the existing motor is good why not replace the tilt/trim system?

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Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 5:45pm
Hi all,

The tilt system was going to be a good few grand to replace and was also told there are other bits and pieces that will need to be replaced a little further down the track that are starting to wear like a few of the control arms/ exhaust etc - apparently it looks like it wasn't treated well at the start of its life so therefore showing issues popping up now. Quite a bit of rusty/ corroded parts showing between motor and transom.
This was prior to me as I have cleaned it religiously as well as got a full service each year.

So - I didn't think it was worth chucking a bunch of money at an older motor that will just keep giving me grief.
Rather go and get a similar motor that is in better condition.

Do these issues seem normal for this year of motor or is it about right?

On my old smaller tinny, I had a 1999 60hp yammy 2 stroke and was a breeze compared to this motor. Was mint condition and had not wear on it.

Keen to hear your thoughts.

Jason


Posted By: OuttaHere
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 7:49pm
It would be worthwhile finding out the weight of your existing outboard. Current manufacturers are all over the place, in terms of vastly different motors with the same rated power output, and there's a decent chance the crop of motors available when your boat was built looked a little different to what's out there today. I suspect 5hp extra isn't going to fold the boat in half, and it's not like you need to worry about a warranty.

There are lots of good motors in your ballpark - Yamaha and Suzuki 70s, Yamaha and Mercury 75 (both quite big motors, hence the weight question), Honda BF80. Just a matter of finding one that fits your budget as well.



Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 8:32pm
Originally posted by Catchelot Catchelot wrote:

Originally posted by krow krow wrote:

You also might find the extra weight of the 75 4/ upsets the ride too.Though maybe do some homework the new(er) 75's might be similar weight to your older 60. On my Dominator I replaced the merc 75 2/ with a 60 suki 4/ and it performed very well. Even better when I put in an under floor to lower weight and move weight forward. Like you say maybe a little under powered but 1/2d my fuel bill. Yes I'd avoid putting new motor on her as won't get that back on resale. 

That Suzi 4/ was 70 hp mate, not a 60Ouch
Thats just funny I checked and yep I'm old Ouch


Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 8:36pm
Originally posted by May May wrote:

Thanks for this mate. Yer I’d be happy with a 60. The Bigfoot makes it easier out of the hole but wouldn’t hurt to get a stainless prop also I guess.
What did you use for underfloor fuel? Was it an off the shelf adaption from something or custom boxing? Would you have a rough cost for that?
That’s another thing I was thinking about in terms of weight - could free up a little space at the back with fuel tanks etc
Underfloor was SS and I picked it up on trademe. Was off a 5m Ramo and just 60l. Made a difference though. I thought the ride was good but definitely improved with the underfloor. Was using it for game fishing so needed space as carrying too many tots.  


Posted By: RC1
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2020 at 10:08pm
75hp Honda would be awesome to replace it with. Around 10K all up


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 9:40am
I recon you would be closer on weight than my estimate..
 Below I will give instructions as to how to weigh your single axle boat, on the trailer with bathroom scales in the drive

Weight: say around 950kg
WoT  30mph
60 hp.
 I would be looking at your engine height.. something be it the weight estimate or extra engine drag because lower is in effect.. assuming the engine is producing correct hp.
  or Either the estimate should be around 1100 kg

This would also effect your holeshot

Lets assume total gross weight on the water is 1000kg, little extra power will never go amiss, engine works lighter, leaner fuel, less rpms  and therefore less mixture(engine volume per distance = economy + hull performance.

To have WoT around 42 mph will require about 90hp @1000kg
If stay with merc 4S 2004+  correctly propped for the 2.33 gearbox and 5500 rpms Max WoT at normal load, correct slip @ WoT and about 4000 rpm cruise.
Will be about a 19 pitch prop..( final diameter established on sea trial but ball park would be 13 3/4 for starter)
WoT about 41.5 mph
 4000 rpm cruise  28/29 mph
And be able to go thru chop a little faster than currently able to, and considerably more comfortable..
No Im not a fan of crashing hulls thru chop.. too old for the BS now.

What is the manufactures hp rating for the hull?

Anyway how to weight your boat on the trailer in the drive with bathroom scales...
 Keep in mind about this size, weight on hitch at hitch height when loaded will or should be around 80kg
This is from an old physics/ maths class of mine around 50yrs ago.
Measurements/ weights must be as accurate as possible.


 Did you know you can weight the boat (only the boat)  on the trailer with bathroom scales?

 keep the engine tilt as low was possible, but high enough to just clear the ground..

 measure all weights in lbs

 measure All distances in inches

1/Put the sales under the hitch, a length timber long enough to JUST lift the hitch and take the weight on the scales...  with trailer level or slightly low at the front.

record the weight  call it   w1

2/ slide the boat back on the trailer about 12" to 20"

 measure the distance accruately and record it  d1.. the accuracy of this measurement is very critical to the end result

 d1

3/ now with hitch same height record the weight as before You may not be able to move the boat a full 20" as the balance on the trailer may put the hitch up in the air....if so just move back till just have enough weight to measure at the hitch....OR put a known weight on the bow deck.. say a 40L water container full right at the start , before taking 1st weight (W1)

OR simply move a lot of stowed gear equipment well forward.

Measure this weight    w2

4/ now measure the distance from the center  where the bit of wood its on the scales to the center of the axle.

d2

 Boat weight = d2(w1-w2)/d1

If put an extra weight on the bow of the boat, now subtract that weight.

Sounds strange.. like stuff like center gravity, weight of trailer etc... If one does the full calculation create the full equation, including these constants and gravity , center of mass and stuff....then compact the equation, all those factors cancel out and one is left with the above equation. Therefore if the constants like trailer weight... which we dont know cancel themselves out then we dont need that information in the 1st place lol










Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 1:46pm
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:


2/ slide the boat back on the trailer about 12" to 20"

 measure the distance accruately and record it  d1.. the accuracy of this measurement is very critical to the end result

 d1

Thanks for this Steps. Awesome read - where exactly am I measuring to and from on this?

Or are you simply saying measure how much I moved it back and keep a note?

I will give this a crack this evening :)

Jason



Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 7:55pm
Way cool Steps. I tried to get my toe hitch weight one day and oops maxed out the scales. I should try it again with full tank. 


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 8:37pm
Drive it through a weighbridge then again without the trailer. Done. Trailer weight would be similar to a load of people and gear if you can’t do it again sans boat. My trailer for a 5m boat was 260kg minus rollers. Divide the weight by 12-18 and you have a power range in hp to go for. 12 would be ideal while 18 would be just ok for light loads slow speeds.


Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 10:10pm
Did a quick test using your method this evening Steps. I did however forget to put the engine down so will be off.

W1 210lb
D1 14.97”
W2 93.4lb
D2 173.62

This comes to 1350lbs or 612kg - interesting to note that the motor dry is apparently 112kg. This is with about 45l of fuel in it as well as a few small bits and pieces


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 6:19am
Sounds a little light but within the realm of possibility for a 5.5m tinny. I teach maths and physics and can vouch for Steps method: standard torque calc. Wouldn’t use it myself because accurately measuring is tricky and the local weighbridge is free to use.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 8:07am

612kg yes seems a bit light

Put the motor down....
The trailer is level?
 Ground level?

take 612kg start adding bodies say 32X 85kg =170kg
 Throw in fish bin bait burley ice etc all mounts up. it is getting up to your estimate.

 Weigh bridge.. well you need to know its been  re calibrated regularly..
 And dropping the boat off the trailer then re load, not difficult but still a issue.
 Then there is as I calculated before based on Newtons  2nd law (think it is) , about a object of a given weight will move at a constant speed at a given force.



Posted By: OuttaHere
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 12:57pm
It sound about right to me. There is not a lot to these boats. Relatively thin alloy, horizontal supports only under the floor, and a simple structure. Tow weight for a Fyran Horizon 560 (slightly larger, more complicated boat) is 955kg; subtract roughly 300kg of trailer and you're there or thereabouts.

612kg boat + 200kg of crew and loadout.... 850kg with some room for gremlins...

I feel like we need to gather and contribute some more accurate data to Steps' database for boats in this bracket; I don't know if its the hull design or what but the numbers don't quite tally.


Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 1:28pm
Yep - I agree on gathering more info for boats. The more info for future use and decision making the better for all.

Roz - you are correct in that these dominators are pretty simple and are slender, with not a lot of over engineering at all.

For a true weight I may take out the fuel and extra bits and pieces. Just leave anchor, rope and batteries in.

Will take the measurements again this eve and put the motor down as far as I can.

I'll find out my trailer weight also - would be interesting.

Jason


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 4:33pm
I feel like we need to gather and contribute some more accurate data to Steps' database for boats in this bracket;

Have been building it up over the yrs From data provided privately and guys who put up good data in the forums when asked.
There are not many  NZ hulls between about the 4.8 to 6.5m planing hulls I have not got.
 In this case its (I think) the older hull model ??
Its establishing the hull constant at cruise and WoT. There is little difference in  most trailer boats due to limitations on towing/ beam. But a factor of 5 can made that little didference.
If we where powering and propping to get that fine 0.2 of a sec on a race coarse to get a checked flag, then the constant hast to be far more accurate than  a general use type boat we deal with in these forums.

For a true weight I may take out the fuel and extra bits and pieces. Just leave anchor, rope and batteries in.

 Load and stow the boat up, fuel gear  etc as close to what it would be on the water.. even the usual ppl in their normal position when cruising would be the ideal.


Will add here  it can be done on a duel axle trailer.. just remove , or have 1 set wheels up off the ground

Also maybe of interest... when I compare the tow weight specs, including the engine weight of most boats in the 5 to 6.5m range, by coincidence, it comes out to damn near the general gross weight on the water Wink give or take a person.
 


Posted By: ofthesea
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 9:21am
Permatrim definitely helps some boats


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 9:47am
With all due respect NO..
If you have a under powered boat.. or put another way  a hull that has a engine not suitable for purpose.. like doing long haulage with a mini tractor unit.. then yeah.

If they where good  manufactures would be selling them under their brand name
 They would also cover warrentees when used
They would provide holes to fit.
 They would mention fitting use in manuals  etc. 


Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 5:15pm
Hey guys,

Cheers for all the chat - it’s been good banter and some interesting things to think about.

Steps - I believe my hull is a 1995 from memory?

I did the measurements and weights again. Unfortunately as my trim system is a bit stuffed there was only so far I could put it down and the manual screw under the motor to release the trim is a bit seized. It’s plastic and don’t want to strip it.





W1 207.4lb
D1 15.157”
W2 72.8lb
D2 173.228”

= 1538.33lb or 697.77kg

Seems a little better potentially?


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2020 at 9:58am
yep sounds pretty close to spot on. Throw in 3 guys , bit gear and 950 ball park.
 If things seized up, do you have full trim from right down when take off and adjust up as speed increases?

Get in with some non petroleum based  inox, spray, repeat once a day for a week.. then gently see what frees up.

 Once freed up. under cowl maintain a fine , mist spray of lanocoate .. absolute minin , as little as possible foe the thinnest cover.. Yeah sound over board explanation, but the other day, someone followed my 'instructions' without taking notice of  "mist" and did good coverage and now have a hard covering..
 Same around the trim area...
and wiring back of the dash panel little heavier but no need to maintance re apply

Just had a thought thu.. bathroom scales.. I watch my weight every morning before a shower...A couple/ few yrs back needed new scales and suddenly I put on 1.5kg.
 
 Had a dr. appointment so weighed myself, then again at the docs.. 1.5kg heavier on the new scales.
Went to the shop and they just hedged the issue.
 So off to another branch, pulled out every brand and put on the floor in a line. Compared weights (I knew my real weight)  sure enough , 1/3 of the brands read between 1.3 and 1.5 heavier than actual. 

If checking yours check at around 75/85kg weight..1L water=1kg.


Posted By: Maydogg
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2020 at 4:17pm
Hi Steps

Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:


 If things seized up, do you have full trim from right down when take off and adjust up as speed increases?

I just released it with marine CRC and an Impact Driver hand screwdriver set. Managed to get the motor a few inches off the ground and it stayed there through the testing process.

In terms of running motor when on water - I dont always have the motor right down, even trimmed up a bit it usually has enough torque to get out of hole. I believe the 60 Bigfoot has the larger 115hp bottom end?

Interesting to note - the motor sprays a lot of water out the sides until you have it almost trimmed all the way up as if something is catching in the water.

Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

If checking yours check at around 75/85kg weight..1L water=1kg.

I checked with what I could find around the house - I don't know my exact weight, so just used a few different smaller weights to get an idea.

5l house wash concentrate unopened = 5.5kg but also a little bit of weight for the plastic bottle etc.

I measure a 10 kg and 14 kg kettle bell both came out at 9.9 kg and 13.9 kg respectively.

Having the engine down just off the ground this time with seats back in the boat, all usual gear 80l chilli bin (not full) and 30 odd litres of fuel.

You will notice all the hydraulic fluid leaking.





W1 207.8lbs
D1 15.95"
W2 68.6lbs
D2 174.01"

= 1518.63lb = 689 kg (rounded)

Based on this - is a 60hp suitable?




Posted By: OuttaHere
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 9:12am
Maybe a dumb question.... but honestly everything except the trim motor/pump looks reasonably good in there, have you thought about just replacing that part? If you've been quoted more than $1000 to do that (and even that feels expensive) you're being fleeced.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 9:20am
In terms of running motor when on water - I dont always have the motor right down, even trimmed up a bit it usually has enough torque to get out of hole. I believe the 60 Bigfoot has the larger 115hp bottom end?

Trim:
 Trim is what you use far more often than the throttle.
At still, the trim is right down, if it is not the boat struggles to get over the bow wave.. basically crap hole shot if up, even a little up.
 Also it trim is up and moving off the plane down thru boats or a creek, your steering is crap
The boat goes over the bow wave and onto the plane, now you bring the trim up to just before ventation.. should be able to hear it, and/ or porpoising (bow bouncing excessively)
If this is not the cruise speed you want then increase rpms to just below for that cruise speed.. then trim up. the rpms and speed increase due to more push and less drag.
Well trimmed saves a huge amount of fuel.
 If slow a little by throttle, drop the trim accordingly.

You are at a cruise speed, a wave comes up you have to cross.. line up and just before, drop the trim. Bow drops, speed drops and you go over smooth.. All with trim button... withing commonsense reason of course.

Get into chop, may have to drop throttle a little, if small chop simply dropping trim slightly keeps a reasonable comfortable ride at good planing speed and economy without falling off the plane.

Faster you go, the more you can trim for that faster speed

Manufactures design their trims, engine size to be fitted so hulls are well powered.. by weight.

Displacement hulls are a totally different kettle of fish.

Yeah looks like total gross weight, by estimate ,and by an estimated calc of WoT  due to possible not trimmed was well as should and revised hull constant would come in at about 950kg.

60hp 2S will give a WoT around 32 mph 4S  34 mph
75 2S  about 36 mph  4S  38 mph
90 2S  about 40 mph 90   4S  42 mph

A nicely powered you would have a WoT around 38mph
Well powered 42 mph

To get the best out of your hull on that boat with that loading a min 90 2S or 4S
 This is all based on performance economy, weight etc
 Not manufactures construction specs which I do not know.

The difference even between a manufactures mid of the hp range (usually min powered by weight) and their max hp rating in hull performance is HUGE in most cases. Thu some manufactures have trouble meeting Safety specs and even their max powered rating is still mediocre

 I hope this info gives you the information as to  fix trim or repower, and if re power what to repower to.

I strongly advise, even if bit over budget, and intend to keep the boat for a long time... repower well.

If re power low, and going to sell.. do what some (far too many) sale yards do.. strip as much weight out, use a light weight sales rep to demo/ sea trial and dump a prop on next pitch up. Wink

One of my most disheartening things are ppl who contact me..And this includes experienced guys surprisingly too often
 " my new boat doesnt go as well as when we trialed or in reveiws... Can we change props to make it do so"
 They are on budget, gone for as much boat and compromised on power in the total price...
This is their pride joy.. gone for broke..
 And I have to explain something they just dont wish to acknowledge or have issues excepting...
Im not a diplomatic person, and it hurts my heart when I do so.

As to building my data base..
alloy boats from the 90s period in particular when manufactures went from thin light panels to thicker welded panels, more weight, and hulls dont get 1000s of pin holes, is a bit confusing due to significant changes in weights.
 These days alloy and glass hulls are very similar in weight, differences are in things like cabin or not in both cases.




Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 10:21am
Originally posted by Rozboon Rozboon wrote:

Maybe a dumb question.... but honestly everything except the trim motor/pump looks reasonably good in there, have you thought about just replacing that part? If you've been quoted more than $1000 to do that (and even that feels expensive) you're being fleeced.


Also along my thoughts..A set new seals, clean up...its a job I would be looking at doing myself, even thu never done a outboard hydrolic trim before..Even just the R&R .. shop around
 And do a serch in these forums on the subject.. Im sure from memory there are old threads from over the yrs.. with pics  what where how


Posted By: johnybegood
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2020 at 4:00pm
For what it's worth I have a trim unit that looks the same as yours sitting in the shed. I purchased it as the ram on mine leaked so I took the parts I needed and did it myself. Flick me a message if the trim unit is of interest - it's from a 2004 mercury 115 4 stroke, no rust


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I just want to jig


Posted By: jackel
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 6:33pm
Hey I'm going to suggest a really simple solution. I have a 5.6 Ramco Interceptor with a 90Hp 2 stroke which I think goes well for me anyway. Certainly not under powered for what use it for. (I dont think it exceeds manufacturer weight, but would be interested to know if it is). I prefer a seat of the pants type testing, track down someone with the same hull and different outboards, jump on board with them and see how it goes with a similar load. I'm not one for doing 25 complicated calculations to come out with a result that may be incorrect, if any one of the baseline data are wrong. 



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