Print Page | Close Window

Trojen winch hard to pull out. Stumped

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128586
Printed Date: 29 Mar 2024 at 10:37pm


Topic: Trojen winch hard to pull out. Stumped
Posted By: Steps
Subject: Trojen winch hard to pull out. Stumped
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 2:57pm
The 10:1  5:1 manual trojen which has slowly become noiset5y and harder to pull the rope out.
 So I replaced the bushes .. the main spool where rather , but not excessively worn...
Wasnt  them.
 Its just when pulling the rope out, winding up no issues at all.
 Stumped.




Replies:
Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 3:30pm
Did you replace the nylon bushes at each end of the main shaft?IF so, did you grease them? If you did, try cleaning the grease out and using a squirt of silicon spray instead. Sometimes that helps but normally if hard to pull out there is extra play somewhere where it shouldn't be


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 3:50pm
Did you replace the nylon bushes at each end of the main shaft?
 yes..
IF so, did you grease them? If you did, try cleaning the grease out and using a squirt of silicon spray instead.
 I was thinking at the time.. "should I use petroleum grease on nylon bushes or not"... and did...I had lent my pack of inox grease to a m8 to service his reels....
And didnt give another thought till you mentioned it..
 Thanks

 Was fine for the 1st trip out.. then got harder and harder each trip... when pull on the rope... spin the spool with handle or electric drill, turns out the rope perfect...

Sometimes that helps but normally if hard to pull out there is extra play somewhere where it shouldn't be.
 That is what have been looking for.. shims all replaced as per original assembly, no play...Thu initially did have an issue with a pin move and rub the side of the gear next to it.. quick tap fixed that.

Will pull the pins and slide the main axles out grease , and re grease in next few days.


Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 8:06pm
Similar situation "Steps" on a friends trailer,managed to get some Teflon turned down for bushes ,no grease used and presto it works,starting to think there are different qualities of nylon about today,in a totally different situation we used nylon bushes and an old tub of castrol grease and it basically ate the nylon in a very short time.

-------------
Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 8:06pm
Try removing the small sprocket (gear) you don't use as wear and tear on the gear maybe causing a slight alignment issue. 


Posted By: post hole
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2018 at 8:13pm
Mine used to do that found a good spray of crc and it would be sweet for a few months.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2018 at 8:45am
Try removing the small sprocket (gear) you don't use as wear and tear on the gear maybe causing a slight alignment issue. 

 the gears not /have no wear.. everything gets lubed, sprayed after every trip.. steering to wheel nuts.
And we use both gears.. the drill pulls the boat up on the 10:1, and if someone is free, take a little load off the drill on the 5:1.. when can catch it spinning.

a friends trailer,managed to get some Teflon turned down for bushes ,no grease used and presto it works,starting to think there are different qualities of nylon about today
 Bushes less than $5 each.. takes 15/ 20 mins to replace..
 The side loading of the main bushes, teflon IS NOT  the material of choice at all...If it was, I have a lathe and have a couple blocks teflon on the shelf 
 Ideally needle bearings on the main shaft would be the go, but at $60 + each.. As against $7/8 and 20 mins every 6 or 7 yrs, and thats on a winch used on ave every 2 to 3 weeks.

Mine used to do that found a good spray of crc and it would be sweet for a few months.
Yep it was just brain freeze when I assembled...
 Long term I suggest go to inox rather than CRC as many CRCs will eventually soften the surface molecules of the nylon.
We all think of inox and reels.. back in the 70s we used gallons of it on nylon bushes, conveyor/ roller components, table surfaces as it met food hygiene regulations.

What is of poor design or practice, is pulling the boat up tight .. have chain on of coarse (untensioned), and the rear tie downs holding the boat forward...but the main load is the winch.. or rather on the main shaft bushes.
We use a large truck tie down to take most of the load off the winch.  Not the one in this pic..




Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2018 at 6:29pm
So a man with solutions to everything can't solve this problem.
Could you not download the appropriate solution to pass on.

Has that boat ever been in the water.

I mean really Steps. You can do better then this. I know you know the answer.



-------------
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2018 at 9:58am
So a man with solutions to everything can't solve this problem.
Could you not download the appropriate solution to pass on.

 That comment is offensive, and ignorant 
There are many on these fortums who are regular  crew, know the boat , know that the stuff I comment on is not mythical"download"

Has that boat ever been in the water.

I mean really Steps. You can do better then this. I know you know the answer.

 Lets see.. last week, the weel before, about 3 weeks before that.. a break for couple months.. only got out 2x cause selling the house..
Oh and I order my XD50 oil by the 20L go thru 2.5 to 3.5 drums per yr, and that been for the last 7/8 yrs

How often do you get out?

I mean really Steps. You can do better then this. I know you know the answer.
 If you had an open mind, you would notice a lot of my stuff have comments like.. dont ask how I know not to do this.
 And also stuff is backed up with pics... of our own boat trailer etc...

I mean really Steps. You can do better then this. I know you know the answer.

 And in this case IF you bother to read you will see where I say in replay to Tagit I had thought about the issue when doing, real dumb, and still did it , then forgot..

What a stupid very poorly thought out and researched  post to make m8, when there are so many,including on these forums who have seen with their own eyes...





Posted By: Far Quirk
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 6:56am
Not that impressed with Trogan gear full stop.  It rusts when all the other parts of the Voyager trailer don't.  The spool where the rope winds onto is a mass of rust despite playing the fresh water hose on this diligently.  The rope is hard to pull out, but regular lubes do help.Better galvanising would be nice!

-------------
Far Quirk - I'm goin' fishn!


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 7:48am
The spool where the rope winds onto is a mass of rust despite playing the fresh water hose on this diligently.

The original trojan I replaced was like what you describe...I dont think fresh water is going to get down thru tightly wound rope, let alone get in to rinse any salt water off the rope.. even with a 3000 lb water blaster.
 To do so would mean unwinding, rinse re seal (lanocoate) then have to , under tension re set the rope when winding on.
 So before winding on the rope for the 1st time under tension to set it, I sprayed the drum etc with lanocote.. well everything gets a light grease and spray ...and dont have an issue anymore.
Being fair , galv is not exactly very restant ro wear from rubbing so would not go too gard on the galve thing.
 From memory , in the instructions there was something about regular rinsing.. and /or using a grease sealant..

Seen a few other winches at the ramp.. where ppl unwind when launching and the hook is ready on retrieve, and some of those are rather rusted.
Just thinking about that now...I wonder if drums ever rust out enough to let go??  
 



Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 7:52am
Ditch the wire and get a synthetic braided winch rope.

You'll never look back.


Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 8:00am
Originally posted by MikeAqua MikeAqua wrote:

Ditch the wire and get a synthetic braided winch rope.

You'll never look back.
rope is just as bad if not worse for rest of winch though I guess there is less metal - if it gets dipped in water more water on winch drum afterwards - I had same problem and I had rope from new - should have treated as steps suggests from new -was thinking about this - trailer suppliers should offer 3 options of trailers at different price points - 1/standard (cheapest), 2/extra rust proofing (extra thicker galv, rust prevention - I would ask for this if buying new or refurbing) 3/alloy trailer?

-------------
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.


Posted By: Raging Bull
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 10:50am
I had a similar issue, got the blokes at Hosking Trailers to build me a new one, works sweet now!





Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 3:33pm
Synthetic ropes are not uv resistant, so dont leave them pulled out in the sun while you are off fishing.

-------------
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2018 at 3:33pm
Amazing how problems can be solved by throwing money at them. Tongue

At first I thought this could be due to cogs moving slightly when  turning one way vs the other and increasing friction, but that was already mentioned. Other possibility is the cogs themselves are unevenly worn. Is it possible to put them on backwards and see if that changes anything?


Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2018 at 10:11pm
It is not generally possible to refit the cogs backwards, and really, the problem was solved when the author realised he had lubed nylon bushes which had swolen, gripping tight on the shafts.

-------------
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2018 at 10:15am
RB
 I know that trailer/ parking spaceWink

 OWT  yep its about pocket depth..
 but worn cogs? those gears pull , what 5/ 5.5m at best  25 time per yrs IF one manages the time and enough weather windows per yr to do so, if able to fish any day of the week. Reality would be well undeb 100m per yr....nah.. and thats even if no lube..

 BD .. yes something I have watched with the synthetic rope and having laid out while fishing... again length time.. number hrs sun is actually blazing...and after 6 or 7 yrs on this rope, still good...
But even so , still have a heavy duty tie down to take weight off winch rope ....and is now the 2rd in 5 or 6 yrs.. because of UV break down...and current getting due for replacement..

As to problem solved... sort of...not conclusively.. yet
 Yes cleaned bushes out.. yes tested under load.. at home and 1 trip....conclusive will be after 5 or 6 trips..


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2018 at 9:56am
Originally posted by MacSkipper MacSkipper wrote:


rope is just as bad if not worse for rest of winch though I guess there is less metal - if it gets dipped in water more water on winch drum afterwards - I had same problem and I had rope from new - should have treated as steps suggests from new



To clarify ... I wasn't suggesting a synthetic winch rope would stop the winch itself from rusting, but the rope itself won't rust.

I'm not sure if synthetic braid holds much water, you certainly don't see it running off the line as it's laid onto the the spool or anything like that.

I thoroughly rinse the winch rope after the boat is on the trailer.  It's the first and last thing I rinse.



Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2018 at 3:03pm
That diamea winds on so damn tight, if you rince there is no way any rinse will get to the spool barrel, or any water that maybe in the rope with remain after such pressure..
 But rinsing or not, water / salt will get down the sides, and any salt on the 1st part of the rope will get on the spool..
 I have my rope ut to length..
 ie when wind out, I leave about a 1 1/5 turns on the spool.. I know when I walk down the plank, andf pick up the hook hanging on the 2nd to last roller, there is enough length to hook the boat and when stand up to walk back, enough loose rope to stand up.. and tension the bow against the center roller  easy...
 A little thought makes things very quick and easy..
 A quick wind to take that slack out, the boat is held on the center roller..

And the reason for only 1 1/2 turns on the spool is.. the more layers you have.. ie the larger the spool gets.. the faster the boat comes up at a given speed, the the effort increases dramatically..
 Goes bal park like this
1st layer wind on say X
 2nd layer  is just over 1.5x X
 3rd layer is getting to 2 1/2 x X
 4th layer If have enough rope/ trailer length getting upto 4 times..

With wire rope the diameter on each layer is even greater.. the dimmeera stuff compresses.

 Now you make consider that thin strop seat belt stuff....
 Till you actually measure what and resise what how winds on..
A rope winds on across the spool right.. this stuff winds on on top of its self.. EVERY turn...and that spool gets far bigger far faster...
 Unless you can drive the boat right up into the trailer on the ramp you use and  wobbly roller , not keel trailer.. hence short , only a couple layers.. still small diameter spool
 The web stop stuff means a 4 lettered word    "work"

So as you see "I work very hard at being lazy"




Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2018 at 4:57pm
How hard is when washing down to undo winch hook run rope/wire out. Give it a good wash and wind back on??extra 5 minutes I think.

-------------
Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 8:20am
How hard is when washing down to undo winch hook run rope/wire out. Give it a good wash and wind back on??extra 5 minutes I think.

 I mention above how important it is to wind on tight.. loaded up to set the wire/ rope so will feed automatically across the spool.
 Do that and you will curse if have ever set the rope correctly in the past..

When setting on land, I used to chock the trailer well, hook up one of the vintage cars with hand brake partly on and  the slope of the driveway...wind it up feeding it across the spool tightly and neat..
Nothing worse than winding up, it bunches up on top of its self, winding gets hard due to ther increase in spool diameter, then suddenly the bunched part falls over with a big bang, and the boat sides back a foot or so.. scary moments
 And I bet there are a lot of ppl here who relate to exactly that..


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 8:54am
I find my winch just works, as it arrived from Hosking.  I don't tend to wet the rope as I use a pole to put the hook through the bow-eye and then crank away.

No sign of rust (yet) and it's about 4 years old.  But ... this thread is a timely reminder that it's due for an annual re-grease.






Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 2:31pm
What with these synthetic ropes, you would think that manufactures would have come up with plastic or plastic coated drums to negate the issue with drum rust?  Maybe a spray of bedliner or something else to coat the drum before its first use, would do the trick? 


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 3:15pm
Originally posted by Fraser Hocks Fraser Hocks wrote:

What with these synthetic ropes, you would think that manufactures would have come up with plastic or plastic coated drums to negate the issue with drum rust? 


[deleted duplicate]



Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 3:16pm
Originally posted by Fraser Hocks Fraser Hocks wrote:

What with these synthetic ropes, you would think that manufactures would have come up with plastic or plastic coated drums to negate the issue with drum rust? 


Would plastic winch spools be strong enough?
I'd actually be worried about dyneema and similar biting into palstic spools.

Would they play nicely with metal cogs or would the other moving parts need to be plastic as well?



Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 4:17pm
By plastic, id be guessing something along the lines of a GRP or similar.  That or a plastic coating to a metal drum.  

There are a lot of plastics these days easily up to the job, just comes down to cost factor.  


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2018 at 5:22pm
If we consider how things actually pan out.
These winches tend to last many yrs.. the orginal 5:1 on our trailer 20/30 yrs...may have had a set bushes changed in its life time...
And its still good to go..
Changed to the 5:1 / 10:1 because of the drill loading and wider drum.
 The current 10:1 has been in regular use for 5 or 6 yrs.. and yes initially greased well to seal the corrosion out.. now sealed with lanocote... and it will last another 10 plus yrs .. most likely more.

 So crunch a couple numbers.. will last say 15 yrs plus.. cost is about $170 at full undiscounted retail price which none of us actually pay.. throw in a couple sets of bushes $10 =$180 
Thats a little over $1 per yr..
 Now if they plastic coated whatever..add another $15/ 20 onto the price.. which will then over price in the market, and not sell when compared to the competition... and doubt if would last any longer.

So a little over $1 per yr on say a $15K older boat maintenance bill... or lets take a newer boat $60/ 90K?
Is it really worth it?

And the $5 nylon bush wear issue?
 is it with putting in pre lubed sinted phosphor/  bronze bushes at a round $30/ $40 each?
Or go the full hog, needle bearings  $70/80 each
 1 set is basically the cost of a duel ratio winch...

 Now in saying all that.. what would be wrong with coating the drum with one of these modern spray on  hi tech coatings instead of or even as well as grease or lanocote?

 The concept does have  damn good merit in my books. 


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2018 at 9:20am
Yea fair point Steps.  Cost is always going to be a factor and its not like people see a winch as something flash to show of to others, so the lower the price point the better they sell.

That being said, next boat I build, im going to give the drum a spray of bedliner before it gets used.   I hate that rust colour bleeding through the rope.  Not much of an issue, but I just don't like it, and i reckon that could resolve the issue.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2018 at 10:32am
Been thinking about/ thru your concept ...
If or when I re do bushes or whatever or replace...
I will be removing the drum.. (simple 10 min job.. maybe 20 including un bolt off trailer) 
Degrease clean and off any scale etc.. and degrease again.
 phosphoric acid to neutralize any remaining rust / scale and etch.
 Then 2 to 3 coats of por15 .. keeping the shaft holes and pin holes, and gear teeth masked off.
 let cure for afew days.
 Then as added 'insurance' lanocoate.. the stuff in the tin not the aerosol.

POR is expensive, at best would use 50ml.. and once a tin is opened it doesnt have a long shelf life .. ie yrs.
 2nd choice would be a good  modern 2 pot mineral based car paint.. and when mixed the proportions weighed out exact to the gm... then lanocote.

 I hate that rust colour bleeding through the rope.
 now you mention that.. yes seen that on a lot winch ropes.. never taken any real notice before... but we have never had that on our ropes just using the current lanocoate

 We did have it on the original 5:1 winch thu.. which I have never done anything on , came with boat, other than just replaced.
Got to find a practical use for it, been sitting on the shelf for a few years now. Thought about the burely (a 3.5m braid rope) but way too slow when pulling up 20 or 30 meters.
 ow


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2018 at 2:53pm
Sounds like a plan Steps! Wink


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 8:48am
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:


Thought about the burely (a 3.5m braid rope) but way too slow when pulling up 20 or 30 meters.



Just a thought ....I have mine on a floating winder.

Easy to use once you get the hang of them.  They store tidily as well.

This is the kind of thing .... although I think $25 is overpriced.

https://www.fishingdirectnz.co.nz/shop/Shop+By+Product/Kayak+Fishing+Gear/Anchoring+Systems/Tagit+Kayak+Floating+Line+Winder.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.fishingdirectnz.co.nz/shop/Shop+By+Product/Kayak+Fishing+Gear/Anchoring+Systems/Tagit+Kayak+Floating+Line+Winder.html





Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 12:51pm
Hmm  I used tohave mine on a electric extension lead  winder.. like a mini hose reel.
 Then a yr or so ago this subject came up for discussion here.. and someone very wisely suggested or said they used a handline winder, one of those ones that you hold the center and wind the outside
 like this
https://www.smartmarine.co.nz/products/fishing-accessories/hand-lines/58085/10-handcaster-fishing-reel-with-handle/details/" rel="nofollow - https://www.smartmarine.co.nz/products/fishing-accessories/hand-lines/58085/10-handcaster-fishing-reel-with-handle/details/
 Never looked back.
I have 1/2 hitch loops tied in at each meter...these clip onto a carabiner on the gunnel hand rail.
 BUT make sure you feed off by spining and wind back on by turning, otherwise the line gets rather twisted.

 Not sure if suitable for a kayak thu.. our burley pot is a bmw front spring , the burly about 1.5/ 2kg, then may throw in a couple bits on concrete for added weight.  To pull up and wind is a little awkward, so 1 person pulls in another winds.
 If only dropping 5 or 10 m then pulling in , then windup should be fine


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2018 at 2:21pm
Surprised you guys don't slide the burley down the anchor line?  

I used to clip it to the anchor line with a large carabiner then slide it down on a separate light rope.  That way your fishing directly in the burley trail, rather than having to cast a way down current to get into the burley trail. 


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 7:54am
Surprised you guys don't slide the burley down the anchor line?

That way your fishing directly in the burley trail, ...

Take a bit of paper, mark where the anchor is, then how the boat is off set with a little breeze... then mark the lay of your lines... be it anchor or drifting.

 Also have a burly pot hit by a shark of reasonable size, that can cause assorts of issues beyond a $10 burly net bag and a car spring and 20m of braid line $45/ 120 +m

rather than having to cast a way down current to get into the burley trail. 

 Why cast.. use as light  weight, or no weight as possible , and drop it so it bounces down the burely line.... and if on the drift, the boat is moving.
 We make our own burely.. see older threads.. one can see the the burley line out the back marked by some of the bits floating up and the birds hitting it.


Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 8:03am
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Surprised you guys don't slide the burley down the anchor line?


 
 Also have a burly pot hit by a shark of reasonable size, that can cause assorts of issues beyond a $10 burly net bag and a car spring and 20m of braid line $45/ 120 +m

 
 
Was lucky to get my anchor back after a Manukau shark attacked burley tied on a short line to anchor warp - only happened once after many times....but that stopped me doing this.


-------------
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 11:18am
Fair enough.   A bit sharkier than I though up your way then?  We don't seem to have that issue in the southern lakes LOL


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 11:49am
I have been on the East harbour islands, primarily for the last 5 or 6 yrs.. Only hooked a couple, and good sized.
 There was a bonzie that had a regular route. time/ tide for a couple yrs.. would swim past.
 And had a couple , assume smallise rip open the net , and another just rip it.
 So not really... 
 I did originally hang it off the anchor.. till read a 'how to  and why' article in the fishing mag..
 As I said above, draw it on a bit paper.. 

 Then we have ha a few trips out over the bars with couple members here, and sons boat...again havnt had much issue.. novelty really, fight a fish.. its not what is at the other end but rather the fight..so far.
And we are moving house this side of Xmas to west coast harbours and bars...been told burly not a good idea, sb s not the go, will curse the sharks, the KY, the weed... 
 So in my normal manner will listen to ppl, then go out, and just try stuff.
If have a feed in the bin all the rest is just good company and play/ fun/ experiment....see what happens.
It may mean dropping a few 100m s of braid off a light sb rod at 50m or 60ms thu..Wink
And if gets a little much, my current 35m drive to the  east coast ramp becomes 75 min to take a break. 


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 9:54am
As Steps says when the wind and current aren't cooperating, burley off the anchor line isn't necessarily the best bet.

One of the advantages of having the burley line on a floating hand winder, I can biff it away from the boat up-current.

I quite often deploy the burley and then anchor in the trail.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 10:28am
....the burley line on a floating hand winder, I can biff it away from the boat up-current.

 I know its floating hand line...but why biff it away up current...Wink

 Seriously thu, when you drop the burley, why biff it?, its going to hang/ drop in the current line anyway.
 And like a sinker on a stray line you can change the weight.. angle in the water so doesnt mess with lines, or a stroppy KY / kingie.
 The depth and distance behind is critical to where you hang, or drift the trace out the rear.
 Also if wind current dont match, and cant get the boat to swing the right way with the motor turned, think about what side of the boat you drop the burley off.
 And if not sure.. draw a little picture of drift (if not anchored) how the boat hangs on the anchor, current direction to get it right. 
 Lets say you are fishing the bottom .. the burely is maybe 3 or 4m  slightly to one side 2m off the bottom.
 Some of the burely rises, some drops, so you have a narrow vertical 'fan' going out the back. 
 depending on current, burly 3m off stern,  and another  5m behind that , the trail will be maybe 1.5/ 2m wide and then hitting the bottom....add another 7 to 15m bejond that is start of fishing target.. 
14 to 25m out the back.

If you hang your burely a m below the surface, and watch how the trail disperses out the back, you will see what is likely to happen deeper .
Anf foul, water temp changes,  a gut will change that slightly so watch your sounder as you come up to anchor point.

 It is this sort of stuff that is the difference between catching a feed , espec on a hard winter, and heading to the fish n chip shop on the way home.
 Its just putting a little thought into what you are doing.
 NOT  "oh the BAF or FaA guys just throw the burly back randomly out the stern, so we will do that to..."
Now keep in mind.. we primarily have fished the east coast.. not high current areas like manukau...or off the west coast... yet.
 So I have yet to work  or even think about those environments ...on the boat...AND test.


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2018 at 9:09am
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

....the burley line on a floating hand winder, I can biff it away from the boat up-current.

 I know its floating hand line...but why biff it away up current...Wink

 Seriously thu, when you drop the burley, why biff it?, its going to hang/ drop in the current line anyway.
 

Depends how much current/wind you fish in I suppose.  Mainly it's a technique I use in kayaking, but it occasionally comes in handy on the boat.








Posted By: Coutta
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2018 at 1:08pm
I've got a normal manual winch loaded with synthetic cable.  I'm no engineer and a firm believer that CRC will free up bloody near everything on a boat. When my winch gets a bit hard to pull the rope from I give the whole thing a good spray. Every two to three months works for me.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2018 at 2:56pm
 I'm no engineer and a firm believer that CRC will free up bloody near everything on a boat.

 Note the warning re petroleum products on synthetic/ nylon type bushes.
 What you describe is what my eventual problem post is about... and I knew and should have know better to do do.
Maybe the difference betwen it not effecting you as soon is that we may use our boat far more often all yr round.


Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2018 at 4:33pm
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

 I'm no engineer and a firm believer that CRC will free up bloody near everything on a boat.

 Note the warning re petroleum products on synthetic/ nylon type bushes.
 What you describe is what my eventual problem post is about... and I knew and should have know better to do do.
Maybe the difference betwen it not effecting you as soon is that we may use our boat far more often all yr round.
My winch bushes swelled from CRC also - I guess some plastic bushes are affected some not but as steps says - take care!

-------------
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.



Print Page | Close Window