Print Page | Close Window

Etec 60hp

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=127763
Printed Date: 29 Mar 2024 at 6:58pm


Topic: Etec 60hp
Posted By: bricker
Subject: Etec 60hp
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2018 at 10:52pm
So......just invested my hard-earned moolah in one of these. Any handy hints and tips as to how to get the best out of it? Hardly done any work....60 hours on the clock and will be on the back of a 4.9m tinny.

I'm aware of stories about fried computers etc., but these seem to relate to 115hp and upwards. I appreciate the specific oil for these is pricey but hey, it will be way more reliable than what I had before as i'm over being towed home!!  :(   and a considerable saving in fuel as well.

All thoughts, opinions and general musings would be much appreciated.



Replies:
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 9:16am
Use the Etec oil.. buy by the 20L  and considering the lehgth time it will take for you to use, share cost with someone else.
 I will be looking at another 20L X50 soon.

Flush well.. drum flush far preferable.. that sorts the computer issue.. which I believe is due to a salt build up in the pipes that cool the computer..

 Savings in fuel.. thats about being well powered for end use/  cruise rpms and good propping for the general use of the boat at full gross weight on the water.

Mist spray under cowl with aerosol  lanolin or similar product.  Not CRC type 
 Store engine in upright position, and if in weather , get or make a cover that goes over the air vents.
 Regular grease of the steering, cable ends, prop splines, and grease nipples with Etec blue triple gaurd


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 10:01am
I've googled these. A lot. EMM failures can happen on any brand outboard and will leave you dead in the water. Most common causes of EMM failures are voltage spikes, heating issues, faulty parts/sensors stressing the EMM. 

  • Check that WOT RPM are within specs. No motor will tolerate lugging long term.
  • Ensure that the battery is connected with a clean tight connection. No wingnuts, use nylock nuts or lock washers with regular nuts. 
  • The above goes for all boat wiring. Clean/replace any corroded connectors and ensure that the battery is big enough and in good condition. A battery in good order can absorb any voltage transients before they do damage.
  • Do not connect/disconnect an AC charger, or any jumpstarter cables with the engine connected to the circuit. This can cause issues.  
  • Get a quality fuel water seperator installed and check it regularly. Many injector issues can be traced directly to water in the fuel sitting inside the motor and rusting it out. I'm sure many people have blown up motors and blamed BRP when the fault lies closer to home.
  • When you fill up the oil tank no need to fill it to the top. About 2/3 fill will allow space for expansion etc. Some older tanks developed pinhole leaks. 
  • Flush the motor with the engine running and allow time for the thermostat to open. You want to get water to all parts, especially the EMM. 
  • The XD100 is probably worth it over the XD50. 
  • You could consider adding a small amount of oil into the tote. This is a bit controversial but here goes: Early E-tecs had oil injection into the fuel just prior to the lift pump. This was discontinued in 2008 possibly due to the EPA. A 200:1 mix may add extra protection to those components. Some well dealers did this and noticed that they needed to replace fewer pumps.
  • Make sure you have a competent guy working on your engine.
  • The etec owners forum is a mine of information. Post your model and serial there and they will be able to find if there has been any work done on your engine and what.
  • All e-tecs can be pull started. Might be worth learning how.
Depending where you go fishing I  would consider having a small auxillary on the boat for emergency use. This goes for any modern outboard. They work brilliantly, until they don't.

Disclaimer: All of the above is Internet only. I do not own an e-tec but am considering one for my next boat as in the smaller sizes they pull like nothing else. So having some spare time I have done a lot of reading. This is what I found.


Posted By: Bigfishbob
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 4:26pm
Checkout the ETEC Owners Group Forum, run or sponsored by Barnacle Bills in the US. 

I had a 115 and eventually had an ETEC tech from the dealer admit that was the only model they wouldn't put on their own boat. 

The only issues you have with the 60 is the EMM and fuel injectors. The advise here about the EMM is spot on, avoid voltage spikes, lose connections, and keep those cooling tubes clean. Always wash asap after use.

The key for fuel injector life, is to protect against water in the fuel, so make sure you fit a water separating filter. 

WRT XD100 oil, a number of dealers buy by the 200 litre drum, they will sell it to fill your own container for between 16 and 18/litre, versus 20+/litre when you buy it by the 4 litre jerrycan.


-------------
www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz


Posted By: sea reason
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 4:35pm
Why would you?, history of unreliability ,buy a 2s Yammy ,bullit proof. Most people don't do enough hours for the fuel consumption to be an issue


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 5:13pm
Not knocking the old carb two strokes at all but if you look at the newer Yamaha’s they have had their share of issues as well. The guy asked for advice about Etecs not what else he could have bought.


Posted By: sea reason
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 5:30pm
Hard earned Moolah on the back of a 4.9 tinny, just my opinion.


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 5:38pm
Fair enough a few people I respect would agree with you especially for offshore. Personally I wouldn’t consider a carbed two in any size over 4hp unless I had a very good reason. I don’t like the smell or the mess they make in our lakes.


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 6:09pm
Thanks folks......all valuable advice and much appreciated. In an ideal world, I would pop a Yamaha F60 on the back BUT at the moment the extra $5000 plus $800 fitting just isn't there - sad but true!! And yes Sea Reason, I realise my efforts won't save the planet so any less emissions must be an improvement but I can see your thinking too. I don't venture too far out as yet (only had a boat for a couple of years) and doing a Day Skipper course this winter. A lot of harbour fishing plus BOP/BOI or Coro mussel farms so still feeling my way, so to speak!! Not up to a West Coast bar crossing as yet but potentially soon?!?!

That said, I have done some "due diligence" and agree with all the keys points. As to oil, I may have got confused but don't I have to get EMM reprogrammed if switching between XD50 and XD100? Also, which fuel grade is best.....again, I read somewhere that the EMM needs recalibrating if changing fuel grades?? On reflection I may be reading too much into this ........"Too much information can be a dangerous thing" ....... LOL

Good work One Way Traffic - I'll sling the details on the forum and see what eventuates :)



Posted By: sea reason
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 6:43pm
Join Coastguard and get out there, I am about to be a gold card holder ,but have fished all my life, through all the ups and downs that life brings, long time friends made.


Posted By: RC1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 6:58pm
You can buy a bulletproof Tohatsu 50hp brand new with 3 year warranty for under 8k. The 50hp Tohatsu even outperforms a 70hp Yamaha 2 stroke. Worth a look.


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 7:23pm
Not sure about fuel type except non ethanol a must if you can.

XD50 can only be used if the motor is set to use it. The higher quality oil can be used on any setting.


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 7:29pm
Just curious: what did you have on it before and how did it let you down?


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 9:23pm
I had a fibreglass runabout with an elderly Johnson - twice this year it didn't start so had to go.......just not prepared to continue when I'd lost confidence in it. Got what I paid for it so now I have a tinny with a ETEC that's only done 60 hours - a step forward I hope!!


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 9:50pm
From what I can tell, the vast majority of owners get a good run from them. Most problems are preventable with good care. 

Best motor review I've ever read (streets from the usual magazine fluff.)

http://btb.fishing/e-tec-ten-year-review-part-1/" rel="nofollow - http://btb.fishing/e-tec-ten-year-review-part-1/
http://btb.fishing/e-tec-10-year-summary-part-2/" rel="nofollow - http://btb.fishing/e-tec-10-year-summary-part-2/












Posted By: viscount
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 12:12am
I have had two 115hp etecs that have done over 3000 hrs each, i have had twin 75hp that did over 500 hrs and had no problems, we did all our own servicing and ran the XD100 oil, lot of people will never do these hours on any outboards in there boating life, There will be people saying you got the good ones, blah its how you treat them.

-------------
Calling fishing a hobby is like calling brain surgery a job - Paul Schullery


Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 7:12am
Originally posted by OneWayTraffic OneWayTraffic wrote:

From what I can tell, the vast majority of owners get a good run from them. Most problems are preventable with good care. 

Best motor review I've ever read (streets from the usual magazine fluff.)

http://btb.fishing/e-tec-ten-year-review-part-1/" rel="nofollow - http://btb.fishing/e-tec-ten-year-review-part-1/
http://btb.fishing/e-tec-10-year-summary-part-2/" rel="nofollow - http://btb.fishing/e-tec-10-year-summary-part-2/
Thanks for posting - very interesting reading, was very interested to read about salt water and debris in fuel tank which caused problems for a repower with ETec - sounds like the old Johnson wasn't bothered by it and should have been cleaned out anyway as article points out.
My only objection is running costs based on 3 year service interval on Etec - my understanding is with salt water use should be yearly - even Evinrude say this?  I don't think reviewer was using in a freshwater lake either?
Personally hasn't swayed me for or against but it does seem (and true of any motor) that care needs to be taken both at install and using - maybe more so that a 4 stroke?
Seems like a lot of problems were caused by new tech (lessons to be learned) and poor installation. 


-------------
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 8:21am
If I owned one, I would remove and grease the prop yearly, remove and grease all bolts one at a time, check/replace the gear oil yearly, check/change the fuel filter yearly and so on. Four strokes need all that and oil, values, cambelt when they fall due and so on. The lower cost of servicing kicks in if you can do the basics by yourself (true of any 2stroke.)
BRP are a well respected and successful company that make good motors found on snow mobiles, planes, and watercraft. I would buy and e-tec and use it, though I would also be happy with a four stroke.  A search of threads on here, and other forums gives 90%+ happy users.  One proviso is that I would still put that auxillary on, unless your fishing is all Hauraki gulf.

Keep us up to date about how it goes for you Bricker.



Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 8:24am
The XD100 is probably worth it over the XD50.

 Do not use the x100
 The x50 is semi synthetic 50:1  mix on carbed injected oil engines and early injected fich engines
The x100 is synthetic 100:1 on later model, injected fuel engine where the ECU can be programed to change the mixer to suit. Us this oil on a 50:1 mix engine and will cost you a fortune.. and not recommended for carbed engines.


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 10:55am
Steps this is an E-tec 60hp. If using XD-100 and if the engine is set up for it then it should be a wash cost wise? Less oil burned=less smell and less carbon residue as well. At least that is my understanding.

On a motor not programmed for it then I'd agree.


 


Posted By: Bigfishbob
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 1:35pm
The re-programming is simply a switch that is turned off or on when the laptop is connected. Etecs are usually programmed for XD100, they run on 91 gas.

-------------
www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 6:14pm
Thanks for the great feedback and advice. Good reading with OneWayTraffic's link to the 10 year performance report Thumbs Up

Got a message back re. my ETEC after posting the serial number on the owners forum.......a clean bill of health but good advice on getting the injectors cleaned as it's been a wee while since it was last used - about 7 years!!

Just need a quiet spell to give it a run - once again, a big thank you to the Forum :)




Posted By: Catchelot
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by OneWayTraffic OneWayTraffic wrote:

I've googled these. A lot. EMM failures can happen on any brand outboard and will leave you dead in the water. Most common causes of EMM failures are voltage spikes, heating issues, faulty parts/sensors stressing the EMM. 

  • Check that WOT RPM are within specs. No motor will tolerate lugging long term.
  • Ensure that the battery is connected with a clean tight connection. No wingnuts, use nylock nuts or lock washers with regular nuts. 
  • The above goes for all boat wiring. Clean/replace any corroded connectors and ensure that the battery is big enough and in good condition. A battery in good order can absorb any voltage transients before they do damage.
  • Do not connect/disconnect an AC charger, or any jumpstarter cables with the engine connected to the circuit. This can cause issues.  
  • Get a quality fuel water seperator installed and check it regularly. Many injector issues can be traced directly to water in the fuel sitting inside the motor and rusting it out. I'm sure many people have blown up motors and blamed BRP when the fault lies closer to home.
  • When you fill up the oil tank no need to fill it to the top. About 2/3 fill will allow space for expansion etc. Some older tanks developed pinhole leaks. 
  • Flush the motor with the engine running and allow time for the thermostat to open. You want to get water to all parts, especially the EMM. 
  • The XD100 is probably worth it over the XD50. 
  • You could consider adding a small amount of oil into the tote. This is a bit controversial but here goes: Early E-tecs had oil injection into the fuel just prior to the lift pump. This was discontinued in 2008 possibly due to the EPA. A 200:1 mix may add extra protection to those components. Some well dealers did this and noticed that they needed to replace fewer pumps.
  • Make sure you have a competent guy working on your engine.
  • The etec owners forum is a mine of information. Post your model and serial there and they will be able to find if there has been any work done on your engine and what.
  • All e-tecs can be pull started. Might be worth learning how.
Depending where you go fishing I  would consider having a small auxillary on the boat for emergency use. This goes for any modern outboard. They work brilliantly, until they don't.

Disclaimer: All of the above is Internet only. I do not own an e-tec but am considering one for my next boat as in the smaller sizes they pull like nothing else. So having some spare time I have done a lot of reading. This is what I found.

ClapClapClap Post of the year, very well done OWT, I shall send this to my fishing buddy, 2006 I think ETEC 90, one injector failure, gasket around exhaust causing overheating and alarming if driven over 3200 rpm, over propped in my opinion, only does 4700 RPM WOT, but owner rarely goes over 4000rpm...



-------------
"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau


Posted By: OneWayTraffic
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 8:12pm
Cheers Catchlot. That’s actually pretty good for a 12 year old motor. Agree with it being overpropped.


Posted By: SpearPoint
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 10:53am
We've owned two Etec's, a 90hp and a 225HO, both have been awesome engines and for a ski boat, I wouldn't have anything else.

"If I owned one, I would remove and grease the prop yearly, remove and grease all bolts one at a time, check/replace the gear oil yearly, check/change the fuel filter yearly and so on. Four strokes need all that and oil, values, cambelt when they fall due and so on."

This post by OneWayTraffic is excellent as it details the maintenance I do myself at the start of every summer. Every 3yrs/300hrs we get them serviced properly but things like filters and fuel lines can go to crap in that amount of time and are easy to keep an eye on and do yourself.

The only thing I would add is to run an overspec'd battery and keep it charged. The Etec's require a pretty big battery anyway and OneWayTraffic is spot on when he says a battery in good order can absorb any voltage transients before they do damage. The advice from our mechanic was a lot of EMMs that failed early on due to voltage issues and underspec'd batteries.


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2018 at 8:57am
Thanks SpearPoint - great info.

As to potential battery issues, what are people's thoughts on running dual batteries. I will be running a fish finder and also use an iPad as a chart plotter/navigational tool so might need to add an extra one as I'm looking to add a jack plug for phone charging, etc. 



Posted By: rowboat bob
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 3:23pm
Hi Bricker I was advised against it by my marine electrician ( first Electrical in Silverdade). They reckoned a quality marine battery with say 680cca was the way to go. With the twin batteries one can drain the other or something , said people were not going that way any more. Big launches are probably a different story.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 4:57pm
From memory, according to the OMC Install/service / repair manual the 150 V6 is only somethiong like a 530 cca.
 And yeah twin batteries .. start and house for something with a 60 hp.. even a 150 hp is over kill.
  Even with old type filament higher current nav/ anchor lights, a cabin 2x furo light, run gps /anchor over night, and stand stereo doesnt exactly pull a lot of current...
Std sounder transducer about 1 amp.
 And these days with LED lighting...

And we are talking a little boat with 60hp????
680cca ???
 huge diff in price.. and profit.
I do ask how can a professional service, off the top of their head be able to estimate requirements with out checking current draws of all items.. KNOW the alternator out put and KNOW the manufactures min spec battery spec for a particular engine?
 Sounds more like a wild guess then add a heap on so cant under guess... than a estimate.


Posted By: rowboat bob
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 5:28pm
Hi Steps , no the 680cca was on my boat,  115 four stroke , anchor winch etc. yes probably quite a bit smaller required on a 60ph , my point was that I was told that twin batteries were not required due to better batteries,  better charging systems on the motors and lower current draw from modern electrics.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 5:43pm
k understood..
Out of interest I run a 530cca on a high compression (220+lbs) low duration cam, old school Chevy v8 350 ci sb muscle car, old school filiment lights , old school,  single wire low rpms alternator, heater fans, wipers etc. 
 


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 10:11pm
Thank you Gentlemen......I'll stick with the one quality battery I have :)


Posted By: SpearPoint
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 9:49am
Hey Bricker, for your engine you need a 640cca battery, which is big for a 60hp engine but that's what it's spec'd to so I wouldn't run less than that.

You can find the owners manual for your specific engine here http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com




Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 9:53am
The risk with a single battery set up is you can get transient voltage spikes following start up that can damage electronics - fishfinder, VHF, LED lighting etc etc.

It's rare but it does happen.  It happened to me and cost me a fishfinder.  I have a house battery now.


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 10:05pm
Thanks Mike......my concern is also to avoid the voltage spikes that seem to have fried a few of the Etec EMMs (according to posts on this and other forums). 

Mind you - they do say a little information can be a dangerous thing lol!! Might be reading too much into this!!

I'll ensure the battery is a 640 CCA asa minimum and go from there.


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2018 at 7:44am
Originally posted by bricker bricker wrote:

Thanks Mike......my concern is also to avoid the voltage spikes that seem to have fried a few of the Etec EMMs (according to posts on this and other forums). 


It's very important for the outboard to have good connections at the battery terminals.  Your outboard manual will probably cover this. 

If it was me I would buy a battery with threaded posts on the terminals and use stainless nuts with spring washers.


Posted By: SpearPoint
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2018 at 9:29am

If it was me I would buy a battery with threaded posts on the terminals and use stainless nuts with spring washers.

And cover the terminals in dielectric grease as well.


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 7:37am
Good advice and already implemented!!!

Took said outboard out for a run yesterday - even managed to provide dinner!! Have one query as a result. Whilst puttering at maybe a quarter throttle, telltale was quite reduced and smoke coming from exhaust....it was enough to be noticeable. It disappeared once we got back to cruising speed but it appeared to me that just maybe the outboard leg is not quite deep enough at a certain speed?? Might be barking up a completely wrong tree but is there a measurement to check leg depth vs. transom, etc. ??


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 8:58am
Leg depth should be set for planing speed. 

The cavitation plate should be skimming the surface of the water.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 10:09am
cavition plate should be in the water with only a few drops running down the top surface of it at you normal boat loading and  fast cruise speed.


Posted By: strx7
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 1:30pm
are you sure its smoke and not just exhuast?   at low speed they do put most of the exhaust through the low speed relief valve, this is very obviously when the ambient air temp is a bit cool.

we've had a 60hp etec on dads boat since January 2006. its done 360hrs has had nothing major go wrong with it.   its really good on gas.  general wear and tear things that has needed to be replaced have been pretty reasonable price too.  I have complete faith in it and have no reason not too



Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 3:06pm
telltale was quite reduced and smoke coming from exhaust....it was enough to be noticeable. It disappeared once we got back to cruising speed

 Sry got busy for this part
 With light load 2S tend to not burn off the oil as well... using the semi synthetic X50 reduces a lot of smoke and smell.. also a the carbon build up inside the prop disappears..
 The tell tale.. you will notice when 1st fires lot water.. this makes sure good coolant contact quick thru the galleries.. then will slow down as the choke comes off


Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 8:16pm
Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

From memory, according to the OMC Install/service / repair manual the 150 V6 is only somethiong like a 530 cca.
 And yeah twin batteries .. start and house for something with a 60 hp.. even a 150 hp is over kill.
  Even with old type filament higher current nav/ anchor lights, a cabin 2x furo light, run gps /anchor over night, and stand stereo doesnt exactly pull a lot of current...
Std sounder transducer about 1 amp.
 And these days with LED lighting...

And we are talking a little boat with 60hp????
680cca ???
 huge diff in price.. and profit.
I do ask how can a professional service, off the top of their head be able to estimate requirements with out checking current draws of all items.. KNOW the alternator out put and KNOW the manufactures min spec battery spec for a particular engine?
 Sounds more like a wild guess then add a heap on so cant under guess... than a estimate.



Perhaps the cca rating of the larger battery, is to ensure a decent voltage is still present for the computer to function, while the motor is cranking.

-------------
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: bricker
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 11:44pm
thanks for that - it makes complete sense. Air temp was dropping fast as sun was setting and breeze had dropped right off too!!

Assumption is the mother of all cock-ups.........but yet again the forum comes to the fore with good advice for us newbies!! Many thanks.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2018 at 8:39am
Perhaps the cca rating of the larger battery, is to ensure a decent voltage is still present for the computer to function, while the motor is cranking.

 Yep...and a lot of allowance for other gear drawing current as well when firing up.. eg  incandescent/ halogen lights, a tube pump, big transducer/ stereo system.
Specs for worst case scenario.



Print Page | Close Window