basic boating questions
Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: Saltwater Fishing
Forum Name: Newbies Corner
Forum Description: If you're new to fishing this is the place to ask any questions about getting started ...
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126559
Printed Date: 03 Feb 2026 at 11:33pm
Topic: basic boating questions
Posted By: tildefish
Subject: basic boating questions
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 4:52am
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hi everyone, i was just wondering if i could ask some really dumb, basic boating questions here. i'm new to boating, but not fishing so wanted to find the answers to some things that are puzzling me. hope that is ok being new to the forum.
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Replies:
Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 5:49am
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That's the whole point of this forum Tildefish, we won't treat them as dumb questions - ask away!
------------- Best gurnard fisherman in my street |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 6:12am
------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
tildefish wrote:Posted By: tildefish
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 4:52am
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thanks for the warm welcome guys. i just want to say, i've tried to do as much reading on here and elsewhere as i can, but it only goes so far. so here are my newbie questions in no particular order.1) where is a good place to mount the EPIRB? i've read the manual and it talks about away from water, direct sunlight etc. but also needs easy access in case of emergency. i've got a stabi 459 fisher so would appreciate suggestions on that. 2) at the rear of the stabi there are two "holes" at the bottom. i assume these are drainage sumps used for washing the boat after being in saltwater. do they need to be "plugged" before heading out? they have a black sock thing on the outside of the outlet. 3) with the outboard being a 40 hp 4 stroke yamaha, does the motor get pushed manually into the down position after launching at a ramp? or is there a switch somewhere that i'm missing that auto-moves it into down position? basic questions i know.
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Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 5:57am
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Is the boat open or does it have a cabin? My EPIRB is mounted on the side of the cabin entry. Somewhere near the helm is a good option. If you are worried about it getting wet maybe a small bucket over it would help & that wouldn't hinder access in an emergency. My ePIRB is waterproof I presume most are to some degree. The socks are scuppers and are designed to be self draining. They shouldn't allow water in but when moving, any water from the boat should drain out. Check them out to see they aren't perished. Some outboards have manual trim, others electric. If it is electric it will have a switch on the remotes and another on the motor cowling. ------------- Best gurnard fisherman in my street |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 7:43am
You have self draining scuppers - handy if launching from beach and waves break over boat - as Smudge says check they are not perished, some have a bung you can screw in from boat side once launched? Is your outboard manual tilt? No electric trim? If so you manually drop and raise - usually has a locking /release bar and a shallow running (half tilt) position - try googling motor make and model for user manual? Remember you should have motor serviced annually - you could take to local dealer and explain - if you are going to give him work he may be happy to show you the motor controls and check it for you? However they are very busy before xmas... ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Kevin.S
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 8:04am
| I keep my eprib in the grab bag, along with flares, first aid kit, torch, handheld vhf and other useful items. A grab bag is a floating bag that you keep emergency supplies in, and if the worst should happen and the boat sinks you grab it and take it with you. If you google grab bag you will find them, along with suggestions of what to carry in them. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 9:57am
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Think about where you stow a grab bag... And other emergency stuff.. life jacket , spare life jackets, flares etc. In the cabin? it is not uncommon for a boat to sink because a wave for some reason has gone over the stern.. ending up with the bow only out of the water... Man over board.. can you instantly grab a life jacket and throw? Is the life jacket a inflatable or block? Under seats, cabin storage is for things like a cooker, spare prop, anchor. Its all very well meeting 'legal' or recommended requirements.. these things need to be instantly accessible when needed. I little for thought , thinking thru is all thats needed. |
Posted By: mouthu
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 10:34am
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Do you have any friends that're experienced boaties that you can take out on the boat to give you advice as you go for a few trips? For the sake of a days fishing I'd be keen for as far as my experience goes. I did that when i got a boat a few years ago and it was the best idea ever. ------------- Yes it was me, I screwed it up for everyone. |
Posted By: smudge
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 12:46pm
I agree with that approach, great advice ------------- Best gurnard fisherman in my street |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 8:06pm
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Vert often newbies are that because they dont really know anyone to head out regularly.. then throw in there are a lot of ppl out there who may look good to a newbie but in essence many of us would only head out once and once only with them. What area do you live in? - there may be someone from forum who has a similar boat you can visit and get a run down from? Yep, or even just spend a couple hrs and a couple coffees going over a well set up boat. If your area is listed in you profile, often you will find members will PM you quietly... |
Posted By: muchalls
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 10:47pm
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Location location location! I am no expert, but since moving to NZ with zero boating or fishing experience, I'm now comfortable solo launching, and I even catch fish (sometimes!) Bay of Islands |
Posted By: Hookedline&sinker
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 7:07am
| I started boating last October. took out a experienced fisho mate from work quite a few times before even my family. He helped teach me about launching and boat handling. I have a couple of youngsters so it can be quite stressful especially at a busy ramp. Made a checklist which helped a lot. And launch real early when ramp is less busy. Still worry when launching and feel that helps not be complacent. Was thinking about doing one of the boat courses.would be happy to help share knowledge and go out with you. Although know there are a lot more experienced people available on this forum. |
Posted By: Hookedline&sinker
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 7:10am
| Just to add I have been out every two weeks on average and more confidently solo launch. |
Posted By: mouthu
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 9:09am
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Here's some more advice too, book yourself into a Coast Guard Day Skipper course and then a VHF course and get a VHF callsign. Make a list of things to do, I keep mine on the inside of the back door of my Prado. It goes like this, Bungs in, Scuppers Up, Fuel tanks in and full, bellows pumped, (I run my outboard on muff the night before going out so it'll start first time at the ramp) Kill switch hooked on, (hooked onto life jacket) Outboard at maximum lift (so you don't scrape it on the ramp) Tie down straps off, D-shackle loosened, Painter tied on (bow rope so you don't lose the boat when you launch) Winch handle on, All the gear in the boat, (before you get to the ramp . . . Rods, tackle, bait, food, water, spare this and that) Put life jacket on NOW. That's my list. And then there's the list for when I'm in the boat and still near the ramp that covers how to do a trip report.
------------- Yes it was me, I screwed it up for everyone. |
Posted By: Hookedline&sinker
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 12:41pm
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Nice one mouthu. I have a slightly different list for set up and pre launch. I typically set up the night before as am an early starter. Like to hop in car and go. Set up is: Fill totes and run engine. Load boat with -fishing stuff: rods, tackle, bait/berley/chilly bin - safety: aux motor, life jackets, extinguisher, portable radio - bungs Prelaunch(at ramp) work way from back to front - trailer lights - check bungs - engine off travel lock - battery isolation to on -winch safety shackle off - painter out |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 6:41pm
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Stuff like jackets , flares, spare prop,spare chain/ anchor, are all permanently loaded.. Day before heading out Engine run, battery voltage and charge checked, VHF checked, nav/ anchor light checked, bilge pump checked , steering , trim checked, bearing buddies checked and pumped up with evinrude triple gaurd red bearing grease Rods drags pre set, traces set... Just before leaving bungs in, rods , sounders gps loaded, plugged in, checked. bait and burley into bait burly chilly bin.. ice blocks into fish bin, and loaded. Crews gear, warm clothes, food drink loaded. 1st burley and bait packet put into bucket to thaw. So basically as we hook up the trailer.. boat fully loaded, ready to drop in the water.. tie downs etc checked. Stop fill up the boat tank.. About 20/ 30 mins to load to leaving the gas station. Get to ramp, swing boat around line up.. crew go down each side, removing bow tie down , rear tie downs, and motor lifted droped 1/2 down, 20/30 secs then backed in. bow shackle removed, Permanent bow roped passed to crew on side ramp...quick push boat slides in, trailer taken away... When parked , the rollers given quick check, as walk the winch hook to rear cross member ( keel roller trailer) While trailer parked, motor fired warmed up, gps sounders turned on, rods taken out of stow and into rod holders. We them make a quick stop at one of several bits foul not far off he ramp.. throw over couple soft baits, bait up.. put lures on.. a quick 10 min drift, if nothing happens move out to fishing grounds. Ready to head home.. last burely pulled up, couple rods still out on a long drift.. wash down, using a couple $2 hearth brushes.. used to be bucket water, now wash down pump.. Sea water container filled (rinsing fillets later) Clears re clipped down, everything including rods packed and stowed, ready to unload when get home... last couple rods wound in and lure added.. just in case a work up ... At thev ramp.. trailer retrieved, final stow couple things away. Boat on trailer... rem the winch hook already just to pick up.. boat pulled up, shackle put in drive out... everyone already in the truck. up to the wash down, rinse off boat, trailer rise motor, carpets soaked, rods reels rinsed...they are stowed in a manner that is assessable from outside. Bow tie down put on, rear tie downs on...home. Having everything packed and stowed before the ramp, means unpacking at home quick easy. Boat quick foam up with CT 18... Fillet fish in the shed, stainless bench.. production line style.. Fish are all cleaned gutted, at sea... before going into the fish bin so chilly bins etc are clean Chilly bins ice bricks quick rinse all thats needs.. bricks and any still frozen bait / burley into the bait burly freezer. Rods racked on work benches to dry next day, boat carpets etc re foamed, and washed down .. about every 4 th /5th trip water blasted..if needed. While washing down , motor run in the drum... Rods sprayed with inox wiped down, and oiled..drags released and put into the wall rack. Cabin carpets etc get light spray gone in 60 sec 10% soln of concentrate... that prevents smells algie mould etc. 1 min When everything has dried or near dried, CRC all the rollers, wheel nuts, trailer lights connector, hitch padlock, hitch, tie downs bimmini clips, carbinas , motor hydrolic trim mechanism. 2 mins Every 4/ 5 trip clears, screens get a quick polish with meguires car quick detail polish 3/ 4 mins...good 6 yrs now still as good as new... bimini seams get quick spray from inside with the gone 60 secs, and seats seams. Hydroilc piston shafts get a good grease with evinrude blue triple guard, as does the steering arm and motor grease nipples. Every 6 months under cowl given a good wipe clean out... more wipe than anything to clean, then a mist spray of lanolin in a aerosol can. Seems a lot of work, but being organised, its not and makes general cleaning maintenance far quicker, less things go wrong, thing last yrs longer.. And things like get a puncher, wheel nut come of easy , no beaking studs, or hard work... steering rods cables dont get jambed.. motor tilt doesnt corrode, or seals leak etc. Very rarely need to spend time with break downs, 'fix ' anything. As my Grand father used to say 50 odd yrs ago 'Work Hard at being lazy' Even to the extent we pull the 5.5m fully loaded Commander up on the keel trailer with a 18v battery drill faster than can wind it up. |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 8:07pm
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Good stuff steps - if everyone did this coastguard would be a lot less busy... ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Hookedline&sinker
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 8:34pm
| Woah next level steps, thanks! |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 7:53am
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Just stuff picked up going out with my DSad in a 14' kauri clinker as a kid, CG coarses back in the 70s. Dealing with ppl with nil concern for others at busy ramps. And simply being as bloody lazy as possible on a long term basis. Even our lawn doesnt have a single weed in it... to be lazy. When you mow your lawn 99% of the time you mow the flowers and pasplum storks.. take those out.. And the mower is a vintage 1950s reel , self propelled lawn master...dont have to push it.. and gardens laid out so dont have cnts or small areas to go back and forth or turn.... Other than a sort period in spring and summer where lawn is mown every 2 , then 3 weeks, rest of the yrs is 6 to 8 weeks.. To weed it once in a while, about 20 mins. As my Grand father used to say 50 odd yrs ago 'Work Hard at being lazy' |
Posted By: tildefish
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 2:39pm
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hi everyone,wow so many great replies i'm chuffed wasn't expecting so much help and open friendliness. i'll try and answer what i can in no particular order so it doesn't sound silly. 1) steps is right, i know people who have gone out on boats but as passengers rather than actively helping prep the boat. so it's not much help on that side. 2) have got coastguard membership, will look to do the dayskipper course with the $100 discount. 3) safety is most important here, have got EPIRB and registered it. downloaded the VHF radio manual and will play around with it before heading out. 4) have got lifejackets for all 3 heading out, it is foam type and will be wearing it all the time, not just having it on board. the useful tips is all the new words/terms that you guys have written, gives me a chance to google it and find out what things are. not to worried about fishing or using gps/fishfinder initially, the first couple of times out is getting used to boat and will be staying within sight of the shoreline (ie can swim back to beach if have to) all that said and done, a few more newbie questions if people don't mind? a) what is a painter (rope)? is that the same as the boat winch rope? b) i thought outboards weren't meant to be started outside water? how do you guys check run the engine before even at the boat ramp? c) best to load boat before heading to boat ramp? will all the gear rattle along inside on the way? ramp is about 10 mins drive from home. d) boat has fuel tote tanks so will be filling up the night before, one less thing to worry about. e) boat has small cabin f) motor is not tiller steer (controlled from cabin area) i think this is meant by remote steer and looking closely pretty sure it's electric trim. g) what does "bellows pumped" mean? h) what does "outboard at maximum life" mean?
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Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 3:47pm
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Painter is a rope that is generally tied off at the bow ready to be used when holding boat at ramp. Run motor at home in a tank or use muffs that enclose around water intake with hose connected secure lose gear ,rods etc inside boat with bungy cords rope etc ------------- Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56 |
Posted By: Kevin.S
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 3:50pm
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The painter is the line (technically you don't have ropes on boats, they are "lines" -no I have no idea why, but nautical types love giving things odd names) that attaches to the front of the boat. Very important to make sure this is firmly attached before sending the boat sliding off the trailer at the ramp, otherwise you might be going for a swim. You can run an outboard using "flush muffs" that connect over the water inlet on the outboard and you put a hose on them and connect it to the tap. This is important as you need to do it after using an outboard in salt water to remove any trace of saltwater from the engine -otherwise you will get corrosion and blocked water ways from build up of salt in the engine. https://www.smartmarine.co.nz/products/engines-accessories-steering/outboard-parts-flushing/52758/deluxe-dual-rectangular-outboard-motor-flusher/details/" rel="nofollow - https://www.smartmarine.co.nz/products/engines-accessories-steering/outboard-parts-flushing/52758/deluxe-dual-rectangular-outboard-motor-flusher/details/ Don't worry too much about stuff getting bounced around in the boat on the road, that's nothing to going over a choppy sea. Just make sure it's secure -and in particular that nothing can fall onto your rods (don't ask how I know that). And above all -have fun!
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 4:10pm
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a) what is a painter (rope)? is that the same as the boat winch rope? It is .. I think im right) a rope tied to the bollard or similar place on the bow.. you can holds the boat by it I have a rope, one to each side of the bow, with a carbina on it.. it is long enough to to reach the trailer wheels.... un clip the carbina off the bow rail, pass to person (on the pontoon beside the ramp. push/ slide the boat off the trailer... carbina clips back on the bow rail... normally the excess rope is finger knitted to shorten for most times. b) i thought outboards weren't meant to be started outside water? how do you guys check run the engine before even at the boat ramp? Never fire up a outboard.. well any engine without coolant.. you can get muffs that fit over the water inlet behind the prop, connect the hose , turn it on.. fire up... to check before going out (at home) and for flushing with fresh water when get home... A drum.. I use a 1/2 plastic 200L drum we drop the motor in to give good flush and check. c) best to load boat before heading to boat ramp? will all the gear rattle along inside on the way? ramp is about 10 mins drive from home. Yep .. mess around at the ramp on a busy day, you will get very justified comments.. to say the least... stuff will not move around anymore than it will on the water. OH and children, ladies.. easiest way is to put them in the boat.. sitting down, back down the ramp, slide boat off... and reverse when loading. We have a 20 min drive to the ramp, some rough roads, open road , a steep hills , with some mean speed humps. d) boat has fuel tote tanks so will be filling up the night before, one less thing to worry about. yep... many ppl get gas plus ice for the fish bin at the same time.. f) motor is not tiller steer (controlled from cabin area) i think this is meant by remote steer and looking closely pretty sure it's electric trim. sweet..always check the steering is working .. both from the helm.. steering wheel, and bu turning the motor. keep good grease on the steering shaft at the motor and the trim rods. g) what does "bellows pumped" mean? dunno.. maybe the bulb pump in the fiel line to the motor.. this has a non return valve in it so can pump fuel up to the motor carbs/ fuel pump before starting... pump up till firm.. sometimes , after 1st non start a 2nd pump and fires up straight away. h) what does "outboard at maximum life" mean? Thats got me totally stumped.. Get out on the water, your caution is good, but dont over do it... have a good run around, watch for big wakes on other boats... and NEVER back into or put the stern into waves , swell etc...that can break over into the engine well.. And also related.. donrt go full speed in a straight line then back off the throttle fast... your own wake catches up very quick as a big wave into the stern. A wave over the stern is a huge amount of weight straight into the rear of the boat, stern goes down, next wave comes in even more , stern goes under leaving bow just showing.. Bottom line thu...go out with the interntion of having a good time, just build into things slow ... and for the childrens sake.. act confident....otherwise they will always no become confident.. How to make childen afraid of insects... scream / panic when a weta jumps down inside your shirt.. How to make them confident.. the weta jumps down inside.. your insides scream panic, your outside say " damn did you guys see where it jumped to? can you reach down and carefully get it out without harming it.. put it in that tree over there when you get it" Yep true story.. and was rather a big weta to got a pic somewhere of it on my arm.. jumped cause the children where stroking it carefully. |
Posted By: mouthu
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 6:23am
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Outboard at maximum LIFE = I meant lift, auto correct thinking i can't spell. It means lift the outboard all the way up when you launch so you don't scrape it on the ramp when launching. The bit about Bellows Pumped, I have tote tanks and need to manually pump the fuel to the outboard before it's been running,once the outboard is running it'll suck the fuel on its own.
Where do you live? Someone here might live near by to come show you all this. ------------- Yes it was me, I screwed it up for everyone. |
Posted By: Sufishent
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 8:41am
x2 ------------- You can never have enough fishing tackle |
Posted By: OuttaHere
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 9:42am
x3, most of this stuff is pretty self-explanatory when you see it done, but the first couple of times out it would be a very good bet to have someone come with you who has done it all plenty before. Very basic mistakes can turn into quite a messy situation if you haven't seen it before... i.e not opening the vent on your tote tank and suddenly the motor cuts out in the middle of nowhere. My 2c on the above: a) what is a painter (rope)? is that the same as the boat winch rope? No, not the same as the winch rope, it is a rope up to maybe 6 or 7 metres long that you use to manoeuvre the boat around the ramp area if you're not under power. Usually attached to the bollard at the front of the boat; my preference is one with a loop at each end, I attach it to the bollard and a cleat at one of the back corners, lets me control both ends of the boat. b) i thought outboards weren't meant to be started outside water? how do you guys check run the engine before even at the boat ramp? Running the motor for even a short time without water can damage the water impeller. You need to have some way of flushing the salt water out of the motor after you've been boating, otherwise you will get salt buildup and corrosion and quickly damage the motor. The most common method for this is what's called "muffs" as they look a lot like earmuffs, you hook them up to a hose and put them over the water intakes at the bottom of the motor and they let you run the motor out of the water. That said, with your motor being a 4-stroke, presumably relatively new, it should start the moment you turn the key. Only exception to this might be really cold mornings or if you haven't used it for a while. You will soon get to know your motor; if it's slightly tricky to start when it's cold it might pay to run it for a few minutes on the muffs at home so it's warm when you launch at the ramp, but if you're going for a 5am fishing trip your neighbours will hate you. Also depends where/when you're launching. c) best to load boat before heading to boat ramp? will all the gear rattle along inside on the way? ramp is about 10 mins drive from home. I put everything in the boat but not necessarily in boating position; rods get stored horizontally for example, and heavy items such as chilly bin full of berley gets stowed up the front (it's normally down the back when fishing) because the braking forces you'll get from a car a likely much greater than you'll ever see on the boat and items like to slide forwards. When we get to the ramp we pull up away from the ramp itself and remove towing tiedowns etc, attach painter rope, triple check the bung is in, open fuel vent, pump primer bulb up, make sure the D-shackle on the safety chain is only finger tight, that kind of thing. You don't want to be faffing about on a busy ramp, when you start reversing towards the water the boat needs to be ready to slide off the trailer once you detach the chain and winch hook. Don't remove either of these items until you're literally about to push the boat off the trailer, too many boats been dropped on ramps because people removed these beforehand. d) boat has fuel tote tanks so will be filling up the night before, one less thing to worry about. e) boat has small cabin f) motor is not tiller steer (controlled from cabin area) i think this is meant by remote steer and looking closely pretty sure it's electric trim. Almost certainly power trim etc. g) what does "bellows pumped" mean? As mentioned, they're probably referring to the primer bulb on the fuel line. You want to make sure the vent is open on the tote tank, then hold the primer bulb vertically with the motor side at the top, then pump until it's firm. h) what does "outboard at maximum life" mean? Maximum Lift; make sure the outboard is tilted all the way up before putting the boat in the water so you don't whack the skeg when you push it in. But by the same token if the motor has a backup support thing (which you should be using when towing so the motor doesn't bounce itself down) make sure that's disengaged or the motor won't be able to lower!
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 10:26am
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my preference is one with a loop at each end, I attach it to the bollard
and a cleat at one of the back corners, lets me control both ends of
the boat. I have permanent ropes down each side also...both get used.... Rem road rules on the water is like driving in most of the rest of the world... on the other side of the road.. Which include launching the right side of the ramp... looking at the ramp from where you are. Going into the ramp, I know how high on the tilt gauge I can go and still be sure the water intake is in the water... I always tilt to this , high tide low tide. IF I forget to tilt right up, it is still far higher than needed not to scrape the ramp driving out. I also know, the position before launching, and lower the motor to that.. and turn the engine so when launch, the boat slides into the water, then steers to that side....not to the block wall side of the ramp.. Currently experimenting with replacing the side painters with a marine grade bungy, and a short rope that slides up it. 1st launch last week worked very well. The rope off the bungy is tied off to the ramp about 1m behind the stern when on the trailer... boat slides off , side rope slide up the bungy which ends about 3/4 of the way to the bow.. boat stretches the bungy then moves forward to the trailer.. Next trial this Friday.. bit more pre tension in the bungy, this will hold the boat more parallel to the pontoons at the stern in a side wind/ current.... It also means can pull the boat up on the trailer while still moored to the pontoon.. solo stuff... or having crew that dont know what to do...wife looking after grandchildren in the boat while launch retrieve. |
Posted By: tildefish
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 10:59am
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hey everyone,great stuff, so many replies i've got loads of reading to do while looking over the boat at parts you guys mentioned. i've updated my profile with my location which is porirua, north of wellington. and the boat ramp i'm looking to launch from is the paremata one by the bridge. it's sheltered away from winds etc. wouldn't mind a local coming over and having a chat, show and tell. 1) is it possible to lower the outboard once the boat is in the water? that means don't have to worry about the prop scraping on the ramp, just keep it at maximum tilt height until motor ready to be started. 2) i'll goto burnsco and get the flush muffs, unfortunately don't have a big drum to run them in. the motor has been recently serviced prior to purchase so hoping all is in good order. 3) will goto mitre10/bunnings and get some rope for the painter line, any basic rope will do or has to be special marine rope? 4) didn't notice the primer bulb on the fuel line when looking over the boat/motor, will do that when i have time before heading out. i did read the instructions on the tote tank to open vent but you guys are right, very easy to miss or forget in the excitement of heading out for first time. will have more questions after reading through all the replies.
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Posted By: OuttaHere
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 11:38am
| I'm in Welly, will PM you. |
Posted By: OuttaHere
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 11:46am
EDIT: For the painter rope, something like this might be good: https://www.burnsco.co.nz/shop/boating/cordage/laid-rope/floating-tow-rope
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Posted By: Coastguard NZ
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 11:46am
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Hi there As well as the well known Day Skipper theory course, there are some practical courses such as the RYA Powerboat Level 2 - see http://www.boatingeducation.org.nz/courses/11/powerboating/" rel="nofollow - here . These offer the advantages of a formal qualification and tuition from an experienced instructor who: 1) Knows what you need to know and 2) How to teach it effectively. This course could even be run on your boat if you had a mate or family member keen to attend with you. In the Auckland area we also offer casual Own Boat tuition where one of our instructors meets up and runs through what you're keen to know on your boat. Just a couple of options you might like to consider. If these don't work for you then yes, taking an experienced friend with you for the first few trips would be strongly recommended. |
Posted By: tildefish
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 1:32pm
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firstly, thanks to coastguard maritime school for the courses suggestion. i will look to do the more advanced courses once i decide to head out to open waters, much much much later. 5) i think i've found the primer bulb, it was hiding behind the battery case heh. it's connected to the motor on one end, and the other to what looks like a filter canister of some sort, which then goes to the tote tank line. 6) where is a good place to attach the painter rope? i don't think i have a bollard on the front of the boat (where the anchor is located), will rails at the front be strong enough to tie the rope to? 7) sweet, so as i understand it's ok to do all the pre-checks at the car-park of the ramp, but not to delay the launching at the actual boat ramp. i was concerned because there seemed to be quite a lot to do before the reversing the boat trailer into the water and I'm conscious of holding others up. 8) i don't think there is any backup support thing on the motor to stop it tilted down or up. but there is a switch on there with a little icon that shows the motor in the up & down position. does this have the same function as the power trim control from the cabin itself? thanks for all the help so far.
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 1:59pm
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5) i think i've found the primer bulb, it was hiding behind the battery case heh. Yep.. check Fuel lines for cracks..and joins.. should be secured with stainless steel clips, preferably 2, and the clip strap part and worm part all stainless also. Any air leaks will have the motor run lean or even splutter / stop at higher rpms. And at stop leak fuel... 6/....will rails at the front be strong enough to tie the rope to? Depends if just using to hold the boat or launching and the painter used to stop the boat heading out to sea by its self.. How solid the rails are and what sort of load spreader washes secure it under neath... 8) i don't think there is any backup support thing on the motor to stop it tilted down or up. See pic below What type of engine, model size.. just realized, or I have missed it, what is the rig/ size etc.. boat motor etc? but there is a switch on there with a little icon that shows the motor in the up & down position. does this have the same function as the power trim control from the cabin itself? yep As mentioned in a previous post above.. behind the VHF aerial (with folded dive flag) is the rope for holding front and stern at the ramp pontoon , or next to a wharf. The finger knitted rope with carbina, one each side of the bow, connected to the bollard is for holding the boat .. stopping it going out to sea when launching. You may also note the anchor chain not tied, but held with a stainless snap hook for quick release/ stow Sry having problem with posting the pic  |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 5:09pm
This manually supports motor when being towed by car any distance say more than a km or so - stops motor dropping and damaging prop /skeg on road and also is a lot of strain/stress on transom if motor bounces around while being towed (if you have ever been behind a boat being towed with no outboard stay on open road it is frightening to watch)- you can use tilt switch on motor cowling to raise motor insert bracket then lower motor onto bracket - don't drive hard onto bracket and heavily stall trim motor (over time you will burn motor out) and use rope/bungy cords etc to hold in place - if motor bounces up stay will fall out if not tied down! So now you know why tilt switch is on cowling, one on remote does same thing but used when in boat/starting/trimming boat under way etc. If you don't have this bracket best to go to a shop like burnsco and check out what they have and check height/length for fit on your motor/trailer before you buy - all are different and some brackets are adjustable. Cheers John ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 5:48pm
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As Masc states above , very important to support the weight of the motor... Johnson / evinrude have a good solid travel support lever, at a height that balances the weight of the power head and leg well to prevent transom stress. Some other older and smaller engines when look at them .. leverage is definitely bit off in my opinion. Also of great importance and ties in with the stuff Mac has brought up... is how the boat is tided down to the trailer. You will see many boats with a tie down right across the gunnels down to the trailer chassis rails each side.. then they pull up real tight...in this places a lot of strain that transfers to squeezing the boats side together... on a plastic or fibreglass boat, not a good idea at all... cant comment on alloy thu. The boat NEEDS to be held down tight enough that there will be no movement between trailer and boat... in effect become a single unit when go over a speed hump/ pot hole. The best way to do this is 2x tie down hooking onto the top of the transom in the engine well either side of the engine. This is easy with older keel roller trailers where you have a rear cross member.. on modern wobbly roller trailers will have to reach under the boat to a wobbly mount or side chassis. Always pull the boat up firm on the winch THEN the rear tie downs.. if you put the tie downs on 1st, then pull up on the winch, the rear tie downs become a little loose. Even on wobbly type trailers , tie downs are far quicker , easier than large tie downs or light board across the gunnels. If tie downs are not tensioned enough.. dont over do it thu.. the movement will 'hammer' the wobblies in their brackets, or in the case of keel, the rear roller sets lower resulting in a baddly balanced boat/ load and weigh distribution on the hull. What every you do , do not transport / tow the boat without the motor supported off the trim hydraulics.. unless backing down and driving up the ramp. |
Posted By: funandfunction
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 8:54pm
My advice would be to never undo the safety chain until the tailer is in the water ( unless beach launching) otherwise a failure of the winch rope or winch will mean your boat being launched onto the concrete. Same when retrieving..... keep the painter tied off or held by a crew member until the safety chain is back on or a failure of the winch or winch rope could result in the boat re-launching down the trailer faster than you can swim. ------------- There are two types of people in the world: those that divide people into two types and those that don't. http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2017 at 9:06am
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It is not an uncommon event that a boat slides prematurely off due to
the safety chain shackle being removed at to top of the ramp.... and
being put on at retrieve top of the ramp. For traveling, We have a extra strop on the bow... the bushes in the winch are only plastic.. easy to replace about $5 each. With most of the load/ weight of the boat on the winch rope and therefore on the winch drum/ drum bushes, these deform quick... so when you pull the winch rope out on retrieve.. its not smooth and/ or nosey. So the boat is pulled up, on the winch bottom of ramp Saftey chain put on towed up out of the way.. the big tie down put on, and the winch backed off just enough to take the weight off the bushes. THEN the rear tie downs on. The wich hook is normally still in the bow eye, not the safety chain as per pic.  Yes the 18v drill pulls the boat up faster than we can wind it on. Note the block of wood.. shim.. used to balance the boat for best, secure towing at ALL speeds.. went out one day , swapping different thickness es to get it right. And the CRC can.. after every trip/ wash down, spray wheel nuts, jockey wheel, cabin door hinges, trailer rollers etc |
Posted By: The Tamure Kid
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2017 at 9:21am
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Well, you've had some fantastic input from very experienced boaties - well worth cutting and pasting the answers into a bit of a Bible to keep at home. I am also a new boat owner, but long-time fisherman and boat passenger, and find this book by well-known fishing expert and boatie Mike Rendle very helpful. You should be able to find it at most book stores. https://www.mightyape.co.nz/product/how-to-go-boating-and-where-hardback/22199401" rel="nofollow - https://www.mightyape.co.nz/product/how-to-go-boating-and-where-hardback/22199401 I also spoke to some expert boaties and then compiled a one-page check list which I got laminated. One page has pre-launch and underway, the back page has on arrival back at shore. that way, if I follow the check list I know I won't be blowing up any engines, letting the boat go sliding off the trailer, or forgetting bungs etc. Good luck and stay safe. |
Posted By: funandfunction
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2017 at 1:06pm
I'd never seen this before in person until last Friday. I helped a friend take his boat from Auckland to Marsden Cove. We got the boat secure in it's marina berth and walked over to the cafe next to the public ramp about 5pm and here was what looked like a 15' fibreglass boat sitting on the concrete about halfway down the ramp . About a dozen people then helped get it back on it's trailer by backing the trailer at the same time as winching.....a tricky job to move the trailer back at the right speed, too fast and the hull was graunching backward and too slow and it was dragging forward on the ramp....I suspect causing just as much damage as when they dropped it. I saw a lot of white gelcoat on the ramp afterwards over a couple of metres so not nice and I felt very sorry for the owner. So learn from other's experience and don't let this happen to you. ------------- There are two types of people in the world: those that divide people into two types and those that don't. http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: The Tamure Kid
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2017 at 5:20pm
| yip, saw it at Maraetai public ramp on Mother's Day this year. A very nasty crunch that we could hear from the wharf a fair distance away. They had two people in the 5-6m glass boat as it was backed down who got the fright of their lives. But I reckon the guy backing felt worse, presuming he owned it. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2017 at 5:53pm
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.a tricky job to move the trailer back at the right speed, too fast and
the hull was graunching backward and too slow and it was dragging
forward on the ramp The secret to the speed is simply back the trailer deep as possible to the boat.. un hitch the trailer leaving the chain attached. Now start to wind up with someone watching the chain to make sure it is slack the whole time.. This way the trailer get winched bach under the boat rather than the boat being winched ontpo the trailer. Basically the same as when dropping the boat off the trailer in the backyard. then getting it back on. |
Posted By: tildefish
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 12:24am
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hi everyone,just a quick update from me, dad and i got out boat our today for a wee putter around. it actually took us two goes, the first trip to the ramp we had some problems but the second go we actually managed to drive the boat around, anchor up about 50m from the beach, drop lines for about 30 mins and then anchor up and back to the ramp. just wanted to say everyones help & advice was spot on, saved a lot of heartache and worry but i still learned something about my boat (stabi 459 & 40hp 4s yamaha) on both trips. things i learned: 1) painter ropes are a godsend. i don't know why more people don't use them, we found them useful in launching and retrieving just holding the boat in position. we had two, one attached to the rails up front and one to the cleat at the back. 2) the self-draining scuppers need to be hooked up before heading out if not beach launching LOL. remembered the bungs, but didn't know scuppers had to be done up as well. was wondering why there was water in the boat at the back... 3) my motor does have a backup support thing... despite reading the manual didn't find the paragraph that mentioned it and on the first go, the motor didn't go down far at all thank goodness for glen (mac420 owner you know who you are) who kindly pointed out that we needed to remove it before tilting down.4) the tote tank vent valve needs to be opened quite a bit for fuel to flow... we had it open, but obviously not enough that fuel cut out the motor. 5) you can't start the engine in gear, needs to be back in neutral. found that out after the 4) happened. anyway, a few more basic questions. 6) i flushed the motor with the muffs for about 2 mins, is that long enough? 7) the digital tacho doesn't have knots on the display, only rpms. how do people know how fast they are going? ps. there was one sad incident that happened though... my dad had my phone in his pocket, when he jumped in the water during boat retrieve it got waterlogged and now it's sitting in a bowl of rice.
 looks like its a goner... |
Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 6:58am
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flushing for 2 minutes is not long enough,needs to warm up so salt dissolves,I use run it till the tell tail water tasted freshness,10 minutes ------------- Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56 |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 7:25am
My mechanic told me to run motor 5mins to flush needs to warm up and open thermostat to flush all of engine. I use gps on phone for speed at first then tacho indicates speed once you know - in my boat 1000rpm approx. 10km/hr . There is a navionics app for phone which will help you on water and give you location and speed if in a coverage area! Very handy in fog! Good luck! ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Dream
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 9:57am
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Steps you mentioned When everything has dried or near dried, CRC all the rollers, wheel nuts, trailer lights connector, hitch padlock, hitch, tie downs bimmini clips, carbinas , motor hydrolic trim mechanism. 2 mins Can you use Inox on most of the trailer parts, except bearings of course?
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 10:16am
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Ideally , source a 1/2 plastic 200L drum for flushing. Far more efficient, and impeller is wetted/ lubed sooner.. its only rubber, wears easy. And put a hose connection in about 1/3 rd of the way from the top. This makes filling easy without the hose doing a snake trick... and drains enough out to move/ drag easy. Also if kept on a sheet of old ply, even easier to drag. 7) the digital tacho doesn't have knots on the display, only rpms. how do people know how fast they are going? A tach measures rpms of the engine.. not speed. Simplest and most efficient, with huge 'side benefits' As Mac says above.. navionics app on a phone or cheap tab. you know your speed, where you have been, where your (within a couple meters), distance, tides, general weather, current flow rates, and a few more bits... and can log trips add notes etc. App is about $20 1st yr renewal about $10 there after. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 5:42pm
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Steps you mentioned When everything has dried or
near dried, CRC all the rollers, wheel nuts, trailer lights connector,
hitch padlock, hitch, tie downs bimmini clips, carbinas , motor hydrolic
trim mechanism. 2 mins Can you use Inox on most of the trailer parts, except bearings of course?
We used to use gallons of inox many years go.. was (maybe still is) an approved lube/ grease in the food industry.. and expensive.. still is.. Back in the day because it was approved for food that was the only reason we used it.... so is Marine CRC expensive (shop around). For general use stuff I get much cheaper the tall green aerosol tin from supercheap. Even if we had deep pockets, I dont see any reason why to use a expensive product , primary designed for the food industry, filling machinery, conveyor belts etc... and marine use a marketing after thought. But hey, sure it will work as a regular maintenance thing.. not as a long term one thu.. far better products purpose designed for that. |