Help with old Cable Steering
Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=123695
Printed Date: 03 Aug 2026 at 7:22am
Topic: Help with old Cable Steering
Posted By: Rjg
Subject: Help with old Cable Steering
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2017 at 11:17am
|
I have a Sea Nymph Charger 506 with a 140HP outboard and the Cable steering is a bit old and tired. The engine slowly falls one way when on the trailer and when on the water its pretty stiff and turning one way is definitely easier than the other. Also if the steering wheel is let go at speed the outboard flicks to one side. Is there anything I can do to the existing setup to help resolve this? Does anyone know a good honest and cheap boat repair shop near Mt Albert, Auckland that could give the steering a refurb? Thanks in advance
|
Replies:
Posted By: Roofless
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2017 at 11:54am
| Sounds more like cable steering can you put a pic up of where the steering connects to the outboard |
Posted By: CEEBEE
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 12:48pm
|
Is the fluid level correct? Try this first http://www.boatingmag.com/how-to/how-to-add-fluid-to-hydraulic-steering ------------- I STARTED THE DAY WITH NO FISH AND I STILL HAVE PLENTY LEFT |
Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 2:21pm
|
Air maybe a problem, bleed the system. Check the the motor can move easily when detached from pivot - ram arm of the hydraulic unit. There are also different vicosities of hydraulic fluid. This may also need to be checked or replaced. I assume you have no leaks in the system. Also is the unit rated for the weight of the motor. ------------- Still cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0! |
Posted By: Sambosi
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 6:04pm
|
I had some of those symptoms when my last steering wore out. It had a small leak at end of ram. Do you have any leaks? Might be a bit more major as mine never wandered off when letting go of steering as that does sound more like cable steering. If the unit is old it might be a better decision to replace ram, or whatever is broken. |
Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 8:33am
|
Leaks and/or problem with one of the non-return valves in the helm pump? |
Posted By: Seadoc
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 9:08pm
|
I had a similar problem, turned out to be 10 year old hydraulic fluid! I purged the system with new fluid and the steering was nice and light again, motor stayed in the center position. The old fluid looked horrible, hydraulic fluid absorbs water over time ( like brake fluid ) and should be replaced from time to time.
|
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 8:41am
|
Can combine most of the above. Any leaks?.. or where there any leaks?..and now little fluid left.? If old change the fluid.. hydraulic fluid over time absorbs water.. then forms acid, the acid corrodes the bores... rather than wear out, its lack of care and maintenance... this also tends to corrode valves and damage pumps. Stainless certainly prevents much of this The system may need bleeding/ purging, espec if change fluid or fluid is low... Being old, you may also have an inner hose liner break down, and be stuck in a valve. Does anyone know a good honest and cheap boat repair shop near Mt Albert, Auckland that could give the steering a refurb? Bottom line, espec when comes to hydraulics there is nothing that is cheap...except for most seals etc... but even then dont go real cheap, there is a big difference between elcheapo seals O rings etc and quality. hydraulics are not rocket science... often a couple specialist tools, and a manual to figure out a few bits .....what is specialist thu is crimped fittings.. they are not cheap. 1st off, change fluid, bleed/ purge.. check seal leaks etc.and then take from there.. |
Posted By: Rjg
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 11:39am
|
Sorry guys I've been busy and havent had a chance to get get out in the boat or take photos until now. See attached photos. Its Cable steering not Hydraulic (have updated original post) - well at least I think so as cant see anywhere to add hydraulic fluid although it does have an overflow tube (brown tube in photo)? The Black Cable at the top of the 2nd photo is the one that goes to the outboard and pushes the bar/ram to move the outboard. Thoughts on what I can do to resolve the issues? https://ibb.co/gX7uwQ" rel="nofollow">
 https://ibb.co/csxiqk" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/msDOqk" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/hfz7GQ" rel="nofollow"> https://ibb.co/hn0Q35" rel="nofollow"> |
Posted By: KikBac
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:08pm
|
I had a similar issue with a 5.7m Ramco. Helm would turn one way easily but just didn't want to turn the other way. It turned out the cable sheath had a split in it and the inner cable would bulge out the side instead of turning the motor. A replacement cable was cheap (about $140) and easily fitted. ------------- Beer: the most important meal of the day. |
Posted By: Rjg
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 1:22pm
| Thanks KikBak, Ive inspected the cable and there are no splits or breaks. |
Posted By: Hannibal
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 2:18pm
|
Hi, I used to do cabling manufacture for a living, probably broken inner cable spiral. Will work pulling but not work pushing. I have spent countless hours stripping , greasing and cleaning steering cables to have them only last a couple of months afterwards then fail, very dirty job with no reasonable outcome. They are cheap now , compared to what they used to cost ($500.00) around $150 for new. You wont look back, just don't install with any sharp bends and not on the floor. |
Posted By: Rjg
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 2:26pm
|
Thanks Hannibal - re finding a replacement are they pretty standard? Do I need to look for specifications on the current cable and match to that? Inside the hub behind the steering wheel is it a straight forward task to replace? Do I need any special replacement grease for inside the hub? |
Posted By: Hannibal
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 2:34pm
| Just look for the numbers printed on the cable shealth, some are printed on and others are heated in. Normally one clamp to undo at helm, wind old one out, wind new one in and clamp, just grease the helm with some water proof grease. Don't pull new cable apart to grease. The number will denote cable type and length. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 5:46pm
|
Check how your current cable is fitted.. is it looking a bit long or short, tight bends. Dont ASSUME the old cable is the correct length....mine wasnt, I ended up getting the next size down that look a loop out of it. It was then a little tight to fit, changed the route slightly and perfect fit, perfect curves. It was very apparent that the last install, someone was just a little lazy....so went the next size up, which most properly explained the play in the helm as the inner cable bunched and wear inside. Take a tape measure, measure each curve, and each straight length... as per the instructions in the box (go to smart marine ot bunsco to have a read, take a pic of the instructions) I did find that using a short length of electrical 3 core house power wiring cable to make the curves worked real easy. |
Posted By: AndyR
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 8:18pm
|
Have a look at this video - it might be useful. Seems to be quite a good channel with lots of tips and tricks. |
Posted By: krow
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 8:31pm
|
A few points. 1. Because the engine will self settle to one side as you travel on the road it sounds like the cable and engine are actually ok. 2. Does the ease/tightness of the turn (to the right or left whatever one is hard) change dependent on speed and trim? The trouble you describe could be as simple as a rudder adjustment. Where is it set at the mo? 3. How many rotations of the helm from lock to lock? some are just 2.2 making for hard steering under the best of conditions. Invest in a non return helm. Easy to swap out and you'll find you can release the helm at any time any speed no worries. Engine will stay where you left it even on the trailer trip. Cheaper than a hydraulic setup but you'll still have some load on the helm ie more than a single finger to turn. 4. 140hp will always be a struggle for single cable steering and will have load at the helm (my thoughts and I might be wrong). Most larger engines are fitted with Hydraulic for this reason. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=686" rel="nofollow - This might help too |
Posted By: feeder
Date Posted: 09 May 2017 at 9:04pm
|
Why muck around with a crappy set up, chuck it out and put in a new cable, cheap insurance. Cheers ------------- The only bar to frequent is the Kawhia Bar |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 10 May 2017 at 7:30am
|
Good pionts by Krow above... If turns on land issue not cable. If even turns lock to lock not cable Is theturn shaft in the right hole on the bar that comes out of the engine? If pulls one side or other.. noticeable at certain speeds.. thats normal....on the bottom of the cavitation plate is a little fin.. a slight adjustment will have the engine run straight at cruise...either side, because engine torque changes, it will pull one way or the other. I run a 150hp cable on a commander NPs, adjusted correctly.. a little over powered.. a 140 on a 5m will be even more over powered and the torque effect will be even greater. There is another thread on the subject that I give step by step how to check stuff.. tell if cable wear or helm wear , stuff mentioned above. |
Posted By: Durban
Date Posted: 10 May 2017 at 9:22pm
| I have hand this problem before .You either have the old Morse or a Teleflex cable. You can strip the the stainless steel sliding tubes ,remove the cable from the boat & off the motor its easier.Pull the inner stainless tube out as the inner smaller tube slides in the lager tube .Clamp the inner tube in a vice & and gently cut on the crimp with a hacksaw cut a little at a time and turn the tube as you cut , careful there is a 6mm rod inside the inner tube just cut the crimp only go to a depth of +/- 1.5 mm around the tube . Once you've through the crimp push the inner tube back into the outer tube this will then expose the 6mm rod at the end of the rod there is a lock nut , undo the nut and turn the Lug off the 6mm rod its threaded . Then from the other end pull the cable out .clean the cable casing and the inside of the outer stainless steel tube . once you've done this put every thing back together like it was then Tig / fuse weld were you cut on the crimp back together . You have a choice spend 150 dlrs for a new one or 10dlrs for cleaning material and your cable is as good as new . Another thing to look out for is the slightest bend you have on the inner tube will cause the problem too . While you have it apart place a straight edge on the tube and check it. |