2004 johnson sensor buzzer doesnt turn off?? Help
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Printed Date: 04 Jun 2026 at 6:37am
Topic: 2004 johnson sensor buzzer doesnt turn off?? Help
Posted By: Steps
Subject: 2004 johnson sensor buzzer doesnt turn off?? Help
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 6:53pm
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Checked fire engine last night all good. Dop in at ramp this morning... Turn key, buzzer doesnt do the normal 1/2 check warning... goes on stays on...the lights go thru there check all good....buzzer still on...engine fires stays on.. kill engine re trailer bring home. So sit down with manual and nothing .. other than over heating, the buzzer continuous...not fired not hot.. thinking possible dud head sensor or ground in sensor circuit. Study the cicuit diagrams.. Worked out, instead disconnecting all the sensors.. disturbing stuff , possible grounds... if pull the connector from the back of the tach...then check continuity (resistance) of each of the tan coded sensor circuits back from there....all check good... Check continuity of the tan wire from that connector back to the buzzer connector... good.... Check the buzzer power feed, and operation ..all good Therefore It SEEMS that the fault is inside the tach warning system. So unplug all sensors on motor oil tank etc.. turn key on buzz stuck on.. lights go thru check fine. Check continuity of each sensor and wire plus from tach thru loop to sensor plugs again... all good Power feed to buzzer good.. jump to the buzzer.. without tan wire from tach connected .. no buzz, connect the tan wire.. buzzer on Engine runs fine. Oil / fuel pump feed check out fine etc.. oil tank level sender fine... Still comes back to the warning system circuit inside the tach... I ASSUME the following... I dont have a circuit diagram of the circuit board inside the back of the tach Now the tach system has purple wire feed, and so does the buzzer have its own... therefore I conclude the buzzer works by power feed into it, then into warning system, thru a couple switches./ relays, maybe a diode to make the 2 second test buzz when ign turned on and different buzzes for different sensors .. then out t be grounded at the sensor that is activated So 1/ Am right or wrong and if wrong where? 2/ Anyone have a johnson/ evi/nrude warning system tach I could loan for a couple hrs.. including pick up drop back?.. maybe buy? mid 90s and above. or 3/ A buzzer gauge I could borrow, maybe by....and do the buzzer warning gauges still use the buzzer? and the std Johnson / evinrude plug connectors Sth Auckland area Cheers Steps PS I know I can run fine, no buzzer, just warning lights... but in a boat dash idiot lights are not in your face like sitting behind the wheel on a race track. |
Replies:
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:52pm
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Couple of things here:- What happened to me - My mercury 2006 2S continuous "horn" (what manual calls it) out on water start before pulling pick - engine cooling ok (checked tell tale hand on block after running for a short time) plenty of oil in oil tank for oil injection. Go home check - on mercury buzzer in control box - wire from engine has overheat sensor and oil tank float switch (oil low) in parallel - is grounded by sensor/float when fault condition - due to float sunk though oil not low - so continuous horn - issues was float not floating and sunk needed another float. Known fault in this motor - when I rang shop after diagnosing he said straight away - probably oil tank float - have you rung a shop for a "quote". Warning system does check so you know working at power on. If going all the time if you disconnect trigger wire should stop one would expect - but does system also warn you if trigger is open circuit? Normal to have some impedance (several K) surely to ground? As I recall with trigger wire disconnected - tone also which confused me at first. What I realised with everything hooked up impedance to ground quite low with oil tank sensor disconnected but overheat left connected alarm stopped and normal horn at power on - have you tried disconnecting one sensor/float in turn or all at once? Good luck, Cheers ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Grasshoppa
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 9:14pm
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what size is your engine? Your writing/description is not the easiest to follow The warning circuit basically works by the various sensors earthing the tan wire completing the circuit and making buzzer sound, if you've disconnected all sensors and issue still present, its not a dud head sensor At a pinch it sounds like the tan wire has shorted somewhere, maybe been crushed or worn thru, have you had control box apart recently? done any work that may have crushed wires, screwed anything that may pierced any wiring? Have you disconnected tacho to test? I'd be wary just swapping it out least there be a issue that could fry test unit.....they are not cheap The tacho circuit and warning circuit are also related to the charge circuit, are your battery leads tight/battery in good order? When Johnsons of this era are generating too much charge they often dump it into warning circuit althou this only happens with motor running, i cant make out if your does it all the time or when motor running All else fails, take it to Outboard Marine Technology's, Johnson/Evinrude gurus, infact save yourself the grief and call them tomorrow to make a booking
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 7:41am
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Goers with motor running or not. Disconnecting all sensors makes or one at a time makes no difference Checking impedence from plug at tach on each sensor circuit.. with and without sensor attached shows no bad sensors or grounds in looms... including the buzzer circuit back to the tach plug... but does if plugged into the tach with out without the sensors plugged in. That only leaves a grounding in the tach warning system thru the warning system circuits own ground....when connected. There has not been any work or interference carried out recently that may cause this..... The system was checked , engine fired up lights etc all ok the evening before heading out. |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 5:06pm
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Sound like the buzzer circuit warning system in tacho steps - you seem to have covered all the bases. Like you I would prefer to have a warning system working - mechanic was telling me that one customer had float in oil tank fail so he disconnected and kept an eye on oil level 2 years later he ran out of oil and blew motor. ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 6:25pm
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Had a chat with couple guys.. they recon no way will be the tach part.. they are real relible (and expensive) the warning horn (that sounds like a buzzer) they do tend to fry the internals over the yrs... and the switching circuit that allows the 1/2 sec buzzer test) I assumed was in the tach warning circuits is in the buzzer. They to are not cheap... still got to get a firm price but could be looking about $200. Pleased to note that how checked sensors and crossed checked in top post was spot on..... And yeah apparently the oil level sensor in the brp remote tank can be unreliable.. but usually because water and crap in the tank causing grounds...corrosion etc...goes back to maintenance. And I would put that in owner maintenance not servive.. maybe... like a fuel tank, cant really expect at service time to have the fuel tank drained , cleaned and refilled??? |
Posted By: Durban
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 12:38am
| If your starboard sensor has only got 1 wire going into it & the port side 2 & 1 wire goes through a diode this tells you the bodies of the sensors are the negative there fore if the alarm sounds when you turn the key on that one or either the sensors are faulty being the bodies the negative. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 4:34pm
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Thank you...just as you descibe Where is the diode located? If the sensors are unplugged.. both sides and the buzzer still goes non stop with and without the engine running thu? that eliminates the sensors as being the issue???? |
Posted By: Betty Boop
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 8:58pm
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I have been experiencing similar issues with my "2000 Johnson 150hp. this is a carb'd engine with optical ignition. The problem is aprox 3950rpm or at Holeshot. I have been assisted step by step from the Conder Marine guys who are exceptionly supportive. An Auckland marine collegue, Jason at Active Outboards has just loaned me another Powerpack to trial. This weekend we plan to pressurise the powerhead carburettor fuel feed and check for minor air injestion at peak fuel suppy. This ongoing issue hasnt stopped us from using the boat below 4000rpm. I have been surprised at the number of outboard, friends,colleagues and professionals that are baffled by this problem and now I don't feel quite as dumb as I did earlier.
 ------------- Last week I joined an Anti-Social support group........They won't talk to me! Papamoa fi-Glass Viscount |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 8:55am
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It does sound like a fuel pressure issue from your description and in the full factory repair service manual. 1/Check the little valve on the pump is clean.. clean is a service item. 2/ when does it, give the fuel line primer a few good pumps.. dont over do because over pumping can cause damage... just keep a reasonable line pressure up...If 'fixes' something like a air leak in fuel lines , failed fuel non return valve, blocked fuel filter, cracked fuel line... something like that 3/ failing oil level sensor... un plug that sensor...no its not near the tank.. line goes into the motor, around the back of the heads, (excess line usually coiled up here) then at the bottom is the connection 4/Unlikely but I THINK could be possible studing the circuit diagrams... 4a/ the alternator regulator it sort of tied into the sensor circuits and the tach works off it....possible the regulator going down....not hard to remove and check following instructions off the manual.... If the engine is run without a battery or momentary connected wrong way by mistake the unit will do weird things... but usually just not charge. 4b/ long shot.. possible build up of crap in the throttle control switches. And for those who think I google this and other stuff...well yeah I have this time...and guess what, a couple things above u will find...others u will not find And those who think i over write, describe... funny how background info helps understanding how things work, and how they get damaged in the 1st place... In my books good need to know info. PS the regulator is bloody expensive.. around $600 2nd hand around 300 they are a very reliable unit IF batteries are connected as per manuals... R&R (remove replace) is simple....make sure re seal well. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 8:56am
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try this |
Posted By: Betty Boop
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 9:20am
Thanks Steps....all will hear us celebrate when resolved  ------------- Last week I joined an Anti-Social support group........They won't talk to me! Papamoa fi-Glass Viscount |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 9:59am
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I have not found your issue on google.. or in the full manual while looking to sort mine..... So much of the above is just my own thoughts from off the circuit diagrams and checking continuities etc Thu .. further thought... u say over 4000 rpms.....to me that does say fuel pressure / supply...does it happen as soon as u go over, or delayed.. enough time for the carb bowel fuel level drop? And if leaning out... the engine runs hotter... not over heat depending on lean, and heat sensor could just be on the verge of cutting in and out???? Un plug the head sensors in the engine one at a time...and see if buzzer still does it... This would also indicate a crook sensor U can also pull a heat sensor, hang it in a jug water carefully , with a therometer in the jug....Ohm meter across.. turn on the jug and find out what temp the sensor goes off at. The tan/ blue wire ...closed 116 C +/- 3 deg open 97 C +/- 6deg The White/ black wire closed 105 C +/-3 open 32 C +/-2 deg Similar method to check the engine thermostat opens and closes (another SERVICE check) opens 62 deg C fully open 170 deg C. While looking up the head thermostat specs found this also V6 engines... underneath where the fuel line connects into the engine is a wire to a vaccuum switch....this should turn on the engine warning light and buzzer. Activates between 6.6 and 7.5 inches and releases at 5" Check that is operating ok to. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 8:32pm
FINALLY found where the bloody diode is in the loom.... Disconnected the 2 head sensors, the power pack plug than has tan wire and the plug that goes to the tach that has all the tan wires in. This isolates where the diode is. Simple test... ohm meter on the plug where the head sensor plugs into the main loom... either sensor.. or the power pack plug... all join at the diode. Other probe into the plug that should plug into the main loom... The tan wires. One way should indicate no current flow, the other current when swap the probes around. A new diode part code 1N5399 .. if u buy 10 will cost u about 10c each... buy single about $2.00 Now since u will not find any pics or reasonable descriptions on google what ever as to location , what looks like, type etc....here it is. The power pack loom with tan wire....peel back the loom tape going back towards the big 'Y' loom join....it is inside the plastic tube in the pic, which is a ***** to slice open.. take your time.  A note of appreciation to Durbans post above... And Walu....it may also be related to your issue also. That diode NEEDS to be checked.. dont need to open the loom to do so if follow my suggestion above. |
Durban wrote:Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 7:43pm
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Sorted...just got to strap the battery and oil tank back in. Tested with a known good buzzer... not the buzzer as all the experts recon. Not the diode or loom or sensors. Swapped in a known good tach/ warning system gauge.... All good. Its in the system warning part of the tach... was we suspected in the 1st place. So who is good at fixing these things... a new gauge is over $600 |
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 9:14pm
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So... the signal goes from sensors in motor via tacho to buzzer or something like that? What you need is circuit diagrams for tacho and buzzer, warning circuit - with this it could be repaired without it will take a lot of time to nut out, I have a mate who is good at this sort off thing though without circuit info it gets tough, though if you have a good unit you can borrow then it gets easier if he can compare good and bad? Be 2004 tech it will be discrete components. I will PM his contact details - good luck! ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 8:59am
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From sensors (Ground).. to the self warning system in the tach... The buzzer feed is from the tach to power And believe the switching for the buzzer self check is in the buzzer...is what have been told, but none of those ppl have actually dismantled a buzzer. The tach self check system I believe (maybe) is the same/ interchangeable for merc and Suzi. The schematic for the loom circuits are above attachments, but can not find any internal circuit diagrams of the tach self warming or the buzzer anywhere. The other thing, how do they open up the tach to get inside? Thanks for the contact John..I was also thinking maybe Robinsons... they sorted a few vintage gauges 30 odd yrs ago for me... And somewhere in these forums, cant find it, there is someone highly recommending a guy 6/ 12 months ago. |
Posted By: Grasshoppa
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 10:40am
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The gauges are considered consumable/non serviceable and are a sealed unit......therefore no circuit diagrams available to the masses, Not to say there are clever wee buggers around that can work it out/rectify, I've dabbled with opening earlier non systemcheck tacho's up and managed to bring them back to life on occasion but they invariably fail again, i come to the conclusion that its really not worth the time........ A quick look at Ebay would suggest a Faria Systemcheck guage @ $142nz plus $41 freight really makes this a no brainer........ http://www.ebay.com/itm/Faria-Professional-Red-Gauge-Tachometer-with-SystemCheck-Indicator-34650-MD-/391263925130?hash=item5b1925b38a:g:GXwAAOSwFnFV-fHL&vxp=mtr Just be sure to check your battery/charging circuit to ensure that yours was just a gauge failure, not caused by something....
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Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 6:49pm
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Yep checked out E bay...and there are some after market ones on trademe also. Yes checked the retifier before and when finished... all good. The tach its self works off the rectifier circuits...generally if the tach is doing stuff it shouldnt and pole selector on the back correct, it will be the rectifier. The workshop/ service manual is excellent for this. |
Posted By: Grasshoppa
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 10:02pm
kinda like i suggested in my earlier post?......... The rectifier on these are usually pretty solid, as are the tacho's, usually The majority of rectifier related issues (leading to rectifier/taco and/or horn issues) is usually battery/lead/battery switch issues, rectifier gets confused and outputs excessive charge and frys things/itself While the workshop manual is good it wont tell you this, this little nugget comes from 25yrs as a marine tech and owning various versions of this motor since its inception in 1995 I currently own a 2006 edition of the same motor, last season the voltmeter on the fishfinder started reading 18-19v after approx 10-12mins of running, inspection of battery showed a cell breaking down.....replace battery and everything settled down to 14v at cruising rpm, i have absolutely no doubt that continued use would have eventually cooked the charge circuit and tacho, as i've seen before Not saying its definitely the case for you, but dont limit yourself to what the manual says Dont mean this to sound like a pi$$ing match but i do feel compelled to correct/enlighten you on the odd comment
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Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2015 at 5:43am
 !) From what you are saying there could well be a problem could be a loose/corroded battery terminal/dying battery/rectifier issue which has most likely cooked tacho warning circuit - Steps how old is your battery have you load tested it/tested condition of each cell? If battery 4-5 yrs old may be worth changing anyway as a precaution?
At least then if it happens again you have ruled that out? ------------- Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish. |
Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2015 at 9:03am
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Not saying its definitely the case for you, but dont limit yourself to what the manual says Dont mean this to sound like a pi$$ing match but i do feel compelled to correct/enlighten you on the odd comment I certainly do not take ANY of your comments in such a manner. The manual is VERY informative on charging and mentions the rectifier is VERY sensitive to things like disconnection and poor connections screwing it up...as u say. I have had one fail.. 3 trips out from a full service... and 3 trips is what it takes to flatten a battery....along with a couple other unrelated issues. Totally agree with your comments Bottom line it comes down to this... I know my way around engines, rebuild an alternator starters, turn down armitures, use growlers, wire hot rods, vintage cars etc....this post was about , just as u state...what the manual wasnt telling me in this case, and that what I was seeing did not match up with what I was reading or being told.... All your comments are taken just as u intended them....informative and helpful. PS after digging out the old rectifier some time ago... they just build them like the old 70s chevy ones these days. Mac my current battery is near new... |