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Solar panel for battery top up suggestions

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Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=113362
Printed Date: 29 Mar 2024 at 9:36pm


Topic: Solar panel for battery top up suggestions
Posted By: MATTOO
Subject: Solar panel for battery top up suggestions
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 2:29pm
So I'd like to have a small panel for keeping my batteries tickled up.
Any experience and suggestions please.
Have two batteries, one start and one deep cycle house. 12 v system.
Cheers.

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Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!



Replies:
Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by MATTOO MATTOO wrote:

So I'd like to have a small panel for keeping my batteries tickled up.
Any experience and suggestions please.
Have two batteries, one start and one deep cycle house. 12 v system.
Cheers.
Are you talking about on trailer at home to keep batteries topped up when not in use, or at sea say drift fishing with motor not running or overnighting?


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Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.


Posted By: Betty Boop
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 3:02pm
I see these panels are in the latest Burnsco catalogue. I'm also considering this option whylst boats stored on the trailer.Question

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Last week I joined an Anti-Social support group........They won't talk to me!

Papamoa
fi-Glass Viscount


Posted By: pjc
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 3:27pm
the modern day panels work with limited sunlight but trickle is exactly that,they will not keep up with demand,MATTOO,I have starter and house battery,when anchored just run on house,my house is 560? and is more than enough as per previous thread,running a/c inverter for dvd,2 movies a night and cabin lights with electric fridge which we turn off at 10.00pm ish and on 7.00am ish(waeco)and still enough left to start diesel if we forget to turn starter battery on. I had the older panels which are now removed.

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Sex at 58.Lucky I live at 56


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 3:29pm
While at home Mac Skipper.
Never had a problem, just keeping them always in good nick is the plan.



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Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 4:22pm
I have 2 strips of velcro on the top of the motor, and another 2 on the bottom of a small supercheap 5W (?) solar panel
When got it last century some time, opened it up and sealed with silicone as it charged the battery from the roof of the tent used when camping.

In the top of the boat battery case I put  double marine cig lighter unit.
This hooks directly to the battery(s) by passing the main switch.. and fused.

The solar panel sits on the top of the motor at home with the Velcro.. or if required at sea, plugs into the cig unit in the battery case lid.

If need be I can connect stuff in, or check voltages etc at the battery without the main switches on and not open the battery box(s)

A small 5w is all thats needed to trickle charge/ maintain a battery....the solar panel has a built in diode to prevent discharge...which from memory is the little led light that glows....


Posted By: Olfart
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 5:20pm
I'm doing much the same.  My setup is twin batteries wired in series via a 'one - two - or both' isolating switch.  I have a ciggie socket fitted into the boat dashboard and this is wired to the batteries independently of the battery isolator switch.  I plug a lead into the ciggie lighter - the lead has another ciggie lighter socket on the other end - and this hangs over the side of the boat (undercover) so I can plug my 8 watt solar panel in.  The panel sits on top of the boat cover and is held in place using short ends of the boat cover tie down straps and a couple of spare tie down clips.
In damp conditions, I bring the solar panel inside as I have not gone to the trouble of attempting to seal it like Steps apparently did with his, but being retired and now at home most of the time I can keep an eye on the weather and bring the panel inside if needs be.
You need to remember that these solar panels are not battery chargers in the true sense of the word but the trickle charge they do impart certainly keeps your batteries topped up enough that you seldom need to check whether there is sufficient power available to start the outboard. 


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Semper in excreta sumus, solum profundum variat....





Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by Olfart Olfart wrote:


In damp conditions, I bring the solar panel inside as I have not gone to the trouble of attempting to seal it like Steps apparently did with his, but being retired and now at home most of the time I can keep an eye on the weather and bring the panel inside if needs be.
You need to remember that these solar panels are not battery chargers in the true sense of the word but the trickle charge they do impart certainly keeps your batteries topped up enough that you seldom need to check whether there is sufficient power available to start the outboard. 
Seems like a lot of work and additional wiring to have problems with - I like to keep it simple - I do not charge or trickle charge battery unless boat not used in month - I use at least monthly for at least an hour of motor running to keep it charged and replace batteries at 4 or 5 years.  Not had any problems yet.


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Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.


Posted By: Gareth15765
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 6:26pm
I have just put a 120 watt panel on the roof of my 5.5 surtees gives me 10 amps maximum charge (as much as my 90 hp motor can put into it )total cost was $250 for panel and solar controller I have just got it wired into my house side of things but I could switch on my emergency parallel switch and charge my start battery but it should always be full with the vsr anyway

at home I have 2 ctek chargers on full time mounted into boat I just plug into the mains and job done charges with batteries isolated or on


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 7:22pm
Thanks guys.
The Suzuki 115 I have puts out 40 amp, so really never short.
I do carry extra batteries at times, such as a dedicated fishing reel and another large deep cycle for the min Kota.
The boat normally works often, but there are gaps at times when I'm away and it's at those times I'd like to leave the tickle on.
So appreciate your answers think I've got a plan.

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Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Olfart
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 8:21pm
MacSkipper:  I do not consider what I have set up as being "a lot of work and additional wiring to have problems with" - I have just got a simple system that works well for me, bearing in mind the boat sits outside under a storage cover when not in use.  I decided I needed something that would allow connection of the solar panel to the batteries without one having to take the storage cover off to get access. 
The ciggie socket on the dashboard also works as a power source for a hand held flood light; for charging my cellphone and my portable VHF on the go; as well as powering a 12 volt water blaster which is used to wash the boat and trailer at the ramp.
I guess one could say this is one's version of working hard at being lazy...


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Semper in excreta sumus, solum profundum variat....





Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 10:00am
John it wasnt complex for Old fart to set up his cig charging point..its based loosely on how he saw mine set up.... only real difference is he has dual batteries (not an issue with trickle charge maintenance) and he has mounted his cig light on the dash...
I do have a cig lighter and usb on dash.. but instead of having to re wire to by pass the main isolating switch, was simpler for me to add a new fused  cig to the battery lid. (with plenty of cable so lid can be removed and laid well away)

To seal my unit just meant remove case screws, quick wipe around areas to put silicone sealer with a scotch brite...including the seal between case and front glass.. fill the area where the cord comes out (once case removed will understand why)  then reassemble, but only torque up the case srews till not quite all the way.  leave for 24 or 36 hrs to cure then torque up the screws to compress the 'gasket' slightly.

Basically taking 1/2 hr to seal the unit well is 'working hard at being lazy'  just hook up and leave between trips out  regardless of weather  rain whatever.


Posted By: Gareth15765
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 1:00pm
have been told to be wary of leaving both battery banks on and effectively linked especially if the house is a deep cycle as this will conflict with the start battery and the most expensive one (deep cycle )dies

I have had this happen to me this is why I have asked about this and that is the reason

I now have both batteries separated normally one a charger each and only time they are "linked"is when vsr is on and engine running

someone else may have the exact science as to why they fight but it is a pain to find it has died


Posted By: MikeAqua
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 1:21pm
You can buy solar charge units that go between your solar panel and battery, and manage charging of dual battery systems.

For example: -

http://smartercharger.com/products/dcdc/ctek-d250s-dual/



Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by Olfart Olfart wrote:

MacSkipper:  I do not consider what I have set up as being "a lot of work and additional wiring to have problems with" - I have just got a simple system that works well for me, bearing in mind the boat sits outside under a storage cover when not in use.  I decided I needed something that would allow connection of the solar panel to the batteries without one having to take the storage cover off to get access. 
The ciggie socket on the dashboard also works as a power source for a hand held flood light; for charging my cellphone and my portable VHF on the go; as well as powering a 12 volt water blaster which is used to wash the boat and trailer at the ramp.
I guess one could say this is one's version of working hard at being lazy...
Yes no worries - just had this image of racing out every time it rains (every 5 minutes this week!) and bring in unsealed solar panel, putting covers on boat after a trip then solar panels on covers - (I prefer Steps idea of sealing and leave it out, once setup - now that is working at being lazy).  Have not had much luck with early solar panels - though they are a lot more robust with more charge now.
What I was saying was I don't do it and don't need to as an option that works for me - from how you describe it sounds good for you, so go for it.

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Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.


Posted By: Kevin.S
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 3:31pm
How long do you need to leave your boat standing before you have to think about the battery?  On the boat I have just sold it had a single battery set up, with a 90hp 2 stroke yamaha and a capstan winch.  I always made sure the engine was running before using the winch.  Over the 2 years I had the boat never had a problem with low battery.  It stood for up to 5 weeks at times.  It didn't have an isolator switch as I had a stereo connected that would lose its memory if disconnected.  I put my battery charger on it once, and it just cycled through the 5 stages and went almost instantly to float -so it didn't need any charging.  I have had boats where the battery needed regular charging, but that was due to an old battery that needed replacing.


Posted By: Olfart
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 3:48pm
I think the answer to that, Kevin is that if you are able to get out regularly - once a week or so - then provided you have a good battery or pair of good batteries, running the outboard is surely the best way to keep batteries in good nick.  If you are like me however and depend on others to make up crew then depending on their availability and weather stability, my boat can sit parked up like a garden ornament for a few weeks at a time. 
Being retired means funds are less available to follow one's recreational pursuits so that is a limiting factor as well.  So for me the option of using a solar panel to keep the batteries topped up works well.


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Semper in excreta sumus, solum profundum variat....





Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 8:52pm
Kevin and others,
We are stupid!
We drink, we get old, our wives distract us. And we leave something on.
It is also for that back up, we should be preparing for.

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Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:41am
Have not had much luck with early solar panels - though they are a lot more robust with more charge now.
Mine I brought a good 17/ 20 yrs ago

Olfart  I think hits the nail on the head there too Keven
Turning the isolation switch off is more a corrosion/ electrolysis issue.... it have a drain then look very seriously at finding it.. bad grounds corroded switch internals etc
And then even a fully unconnected batter will drain simply by the dust/ moisture across the top of the battery between the terminals.. have a play with a digital multi meter  will be rather surprised.... even on a brand new battery on the shop shelf will drain

Secret to a long life reliable lead acid battery.. be it a alarm in the factory, or car, or electric fence or boat... to be ALWAYS fully charged   stored and even when in use

A question thu... why do boat battery cases dont have a drain hole?
And one maybe 1/8 or 1/4 way up?
When was the last time ppl check the battery case for water in the bottom?

 
Generally the terminals are below the top edge of the case, which means if each time u wash down a bit water splashes in, eventually it reaches the terminals, if any salts in the water bad things can happen dramatically


Posted By: Kandrew
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 8:15pm
Not a big fan of solar chargers, batteries need to be cycled correctly if storedfor long periods. If your going to do it properly, the solar charger needs some sort of regulator. As mentioned above a good battery of the right size for the motor should last for at least a month without the need for charging. I like the new 5 stage smart chargers because they cycle the battery up and down and this is what prolongs the life of a battery not just a constant trickle charge. If you can't get a lead across to the boat to plug a charger into, then you haven't got much choice but to run with a solar charger. Just remember if your battery is going flat often then it needs replacing. Normal glass mat batteries will normally only last for 3 years if you're lucky I always replace mine at 3 years or before. The other tell tale of your battery getting tied is if it fumes a lot when you charge it. Sulphating of the battery cells is generally why batteries Sh-t themselves. Always keep an eye on the electrolyte/water level and if you can help it don't use plain old tap water, the contaminants will sortern the life of the battery. Keep the terminals nice and clean and if they become corroded clean them with baking soda and hot water. As steps says, keep the surface of the battery clean and make sure it's in a proper battery box that fits the battery and its strapped down. Vibration is the killer of batteries and that's why marine batteries have thicker plants than car batteries to handle the crash and bang.

I've fitted the Ctek comfort indicator to both of my batteries, they excellent you can see the condition of the battery at a glance. $20 each not a lot for a bit of added safety.

http://www.cteknz.co.nz/CTEKComfortIndicators/tabid/498/Default.aspx

One other thing I always recommend is to buy the largest CCA rated battery you can fit, gives you a extra bit of grunt for a safety margin. Don't scrump on a cheap battery that's to small and if you can afford it, go for one of the new optima round cell type batteries. This technology has been around since Adam was a cowboy but the new ones are really good. Hold their charge for ages and last up to 2x as long as the old glass mat batteries.

http://www.centurybatteries.co.nz/products/optima

Hope this helps, cheers


Posted By: MacSkipper
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 8:32pm
Originally posted by Kandrew Kandrew wrote:

Not a big fan of solar chargers, batteries need to be cycled correctly if storedfor long periods. If your going to do it properly, the solar charger needs some sort of regulator. As mentioned above a good battery of the right size for the motor should last for at least a month without the need for charging. I like the new 5 stage smart chargers because they cycle the battery up and down and this is what prolongs the life of a battery not just a constant trickle charge. If you can't get a lead across to the boat to plug a charger into, then you haven't got much choice but to run with a solar charger.

I've fitted the Ctek comfort indicator to both of my batteries, they excellent you can see the condition of the battery at a glance. $20 each not a lot for a bit of added safety.

http://www.cteknz.co.nz/CTEKComfortIndicators/tabid/498/Default.aspx
Interesting product I note comment for device (if left powered off but hooked up) - "Back current drain is only 1.5mA, which is extremely low." so is equal in 1000 hours or 42 days to a 1.5Amp/hr load for 1 hr, I think the batteries own losses would be higher than this - pretty good.


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Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.


Posted By: Olfart
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:13pm
I should have mentioned earlier that my current solar panel has a regulator fitted within the confines of the aluminium frame - it was one of the reasons for buying the panel and it is a big improvement on the previous panel which I inadvertently left unsecured on the boat cover (it fell off and smashed on the ground).  The new panel also has a diode fitted to prevent the batteries draining when the panel is in low light conditions.
With all of that said, when I have had the boat standing unused for a month or so, I hook up a standard charger to the batteries just to be sure the batteries are fully charged at least monthly.


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Semper in excreta sumus, solum profundum variat....





Posted By: Kandrew
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:13pm
Yep I've just hung my Ctek comfort indicator out the side of my battery box so I can see it at all times. Also real handy to keep a good eye on the battery charge level while on water with electrics running and I just plug my smart charger straight into it when I put the boat away.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 9:05am
Real cheap battery monitor.. get a $10 multi meter and replace the probes with cig lighter plug....
Or turn on your gps/ sounder  most have voltage read outs....
Either if note the voltage drop when firing u the engine and/ with engine running with everything turned on will pick up and faults in charging and/ or battery conditions... before they become an issue.


Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 11:23pm
i use a trickle charger on both batteries, lock the center isolator in so both batteries are connected. Pluged in through a ciggie socket near the back of the boat.

While on the water, i use the fish finder to show battery voltage, and an alarm set for if it gets low. 
When ever starting and moving off, i tend to glance at the fish finder to see that the voltage has picked up to over 14 volts..

I think the ctek way is the better way if you can get power to the boat. 
I have a 5 watt panel on my tractor battery, with a charge controller, and it struggles in the winter..


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you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: Kandrew
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2015 at 7:12am
Thing I like about the Ctek is you can see the condition of the battery at any time, you don't have plug things in, turn on fish finders. When the boats sitting in the driveway with the cover on I just lift up the cover and can see which color light is flashing and know if I need to plug the charger in.

Then if the battery needs charging, I don't have to undo the battery box, I just plug the Ctek charger straight into the end of the comfort indicator.

Ctek also do one you can mount on the dash. I have a battery mounted on the front of my trailer for my electric winch, I used one of the cheap solar chargers but I found it just wasn't up to the job. As the battery got down from use the solar charger just didn't have the grunt to charge the battery back up again. Might be been alright to maintain a charge level but as far as charging a battery even a small amount they are just a waste of money.


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2015 at 8:27am
I have a battery mounted on the front of my trailer for my electric winch, I used one of the cheap solar chargers but I found it just wasn't up to the job. As the battery got down from use the solar charger just didn't have the grunt to charge the battery back up again. Might be been alright to maintain a charge level but as far as charging a battery even a small amount they are just a waste of money. 

If one reads the instructions that comes with them they say it is not designed to do charge up... If u sit down and work out the amount of energy (amp/ hrs) u suck out of the battery and considering that the small ones are 5W or about 0.4 amps at full sunlight...thats weeks to effectively to charge up.
Thats like using a 1966 mini to do long haul cartage

I have a 5 watt panel on my tractor battery, with a charge controller, and it struggles in the winter.
I assume the panel is mounted for best direct sunlight... the main issue with things like tractors, even electric fences as I have mentioned above.. dirty battery cases tops, espec when get damp causing leakage in excess of the amount of sunlight and what the panel is capable of.. espec at night

Battery tops must be kept clean at all times.


Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2015 at 10:13pm
have a 5 watt panel on my tractor battery, with a charge controller, and it struggles in the winter.
I assume the panel is mounted for best direct sunlight... the main issue with things like tractors, even electric fences as I have mentioned above.. dirty battery cases tops, espec when get damp causing leakage in excess of the amount of sunlight and what the panel is capable of.. espec at night

Battery tops must be kept clean at all times.

The battery is removed from the tractor and stored in the shed. Clean and dry,
the reality is that the 5 w panel isn't up to it even hough it's on the roof pointing north..
I am looking at a 160 w panel and more house batteries to run a fridge in the caravan, so the 40 w panel might take over tractor battery duties..

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you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2015 at 8:26am
I would suggest then check the cells.. if not sealed.. and u will ind 1 cell that has a SG different to he rest... look for the odd cell out not the charge state on the hydrometer...
The issue will not be the size of the solar panel but the battery is dieing
Give it a full over night charge....let sit for a day or too, then hook a head light or fire up the tractor.. then check voltage.. it should still show a full charge.
If not its dieing... take down to the local battery/ workshop and get them to drop the meter on.
And when they drop the meter on, ask to watch...watch the instructions on the screen carefully... chances are they either dont know how to use it correctly or possibility trying to sell a new battery regardless.... the number of 'professional ' ppl who use these incorrectly .. dont read/ follow instruction is unbelievable

But what u describe... winter, colder temps doesnt keep up holding charge etc are all classic dieing battery cell... not far off dead.


Posted By: David056
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 9:50pm
the modern day panels work with limited sunlight but trickle is exactly that,they will not keep up with demand https://www.offgrid.ae/" rel="nofollow - off grid ,MATTOO, when anchored just run on house,my house is 560? and is more than enough as per previous thread, and cabin lights with electric fridge which we turn off at 10.00pm ish and on 7.00am ish(waeco)and still enough left to start diesel if we forget to turn starter battery on. 


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 9:47am
10.00pm ish and on 7.00am ish...

...running a/c inverter for dvd,2 movies a night and cabin lights with electric fridge....

still enough left to start diesel if we forget to turn starter battery on.

 Doing the maths.. rough guesstimate here... total 3hrs... lets increase 30%  make 4hrs.
DVD /TV...85w/hr  inverter.. 15w /hr lights 10w/hr fridge(not going all of the time) 60w/3 20w/hr
make it 130w/hr for 3 hrs
400w/hr
240v I assume
400/240 is 2amp/hr
battery around  560cca is ball park around 70 to 80 ah.
ie 75amps per hr for 20hrs.
Battery doesnt even get close to using storage.

Havnt checked my number above, regardless dont even need a sunny day for a few days on that..

A basic 40w charging / maintenance  panel will deliver around 35+ w per hr, nett to the battery, fridges etc.. Thats about 4hrs sunny day charge.. which can be divided up over 1 to around a week.

Before ppl start to cry.. cca and A/hr are totally different..cant cal;c from one to the other yep correct.
 On the other hand a very general ball park guesstimate for pb acid batteries is cca/ 7.25 gives a/hr.


If installing charging.. as against maintaining charge panels.. taking the time to crunch a few basic numbers makes for well set up systems  with no hit in miss.


And the same goes for house solar
.
When we got panels on the house.. they recommended 12 panels.. I crunched numbers and worked out to 13, so got 14.
With no battery one aims for using 50% of production and ave draw from grid 50%... which we are withing either side by 2 to 3%
Thumbs Up
 


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2021 at 5:40pm
So I'm sure I owe this post an update.
Those panels didn't work.

The why, well, I put on far too many toys.
And as I set this rig up for staying away for more than three days I started to have huge energy shortfalls.
Nievely I thought my alternator would pick up the shortfall.
How wrong was I.
After a few subsequent series of energy failures. Several that I lost throttle control multiple times during anchoring, refuelling and then loss off power returning from a long days trolling and fortunately in large but forgiving and following sea and with numerous assessments between each experience I have put the effort into solving the problem.

I completely lost my GAMEFISHING season. Still I like to come home and won't put anybody on board.

So what I knew was that my smart craft and fly by wire was continually failing.
Smart craft being the tool for mercury.

I had two one year old batteries that both collapsed.
A start and deep cycle.

First port of investigation was the batteries. All good on purchase.
Then the alternator.
All good and in excellent condition.
I then spent months chasing my worst subject.
Electrics.

In this learning I discovered I had an energy shortfall.
I built an excell program to list all energy use and input.
I discovered I had a 2000 watt loss every 24 hours.
Hence day trips were just ok and longer periods were the problem.
Again too many toys right.

Energy loss of that magnitude effects the smart craft and fly by wire system with those items needing minimum operable current draws.

I'm going to miss out the finer details of all of this and try and keep it general.

So firstly I have an energy loss against what I could produce.
So as the start batteries are the most important to an isolated use of energy loss to computer, steering and throttle I've now put I n two start batteries on recommendation from mercury and others.
I've increased the house batteries to two and increased the amp hours.

I couldn't improve the alternator either by replacement or size.

I could improve the solar array.
So I now have a 150w unit with a victron 75/15 solar controller.

Now without adding another generating source of energy such as a generator I have moved forward.

So with energy use management and new energy storage systems I'm hoping for a better outcome.

So that's my abbreviated story to date.

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Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2021 at 6:12pm
Hmm that story brings back memories of my hot rodding / muscle car days.. Get a matchin numbers, late 60s , say Camaro and has about a 63 amp alternator...
If one traveled on a wet cold night for a long distance.. heater fans, wipers, light on high, and added .. nothing fancy, just a slightly more modern than the orginal AM radio...the head lights would slowly dim.. And stop for a pee.. not enough grunt to re fire the engine if a little over advanced as ppl used to do back then..
 On the other hand , step ahead 50yrs, swap lights to LEDss and will just make the grade.
A std 105amp alternator sorted the issues fine.

 Same issue with  think the Nelson city council recently and their new buildings.. cold because the engineer (not sure should call him an engineer for such basic error thu) did not spec the transformer to cover the power requirements

On a grander scales Im sure we will see the same for NZ...even if they get batteries to store...it still long term.. be a week, season or day....supply still needs to have good margin agains use...
Or end up like Adelaide and their water... build more damns to sore for dry periods.... except, never got the rain to fill them..


Posted By: Titahi
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2021 at 7:35pm
I use a Projecta 120w folding solar blanket when doing extended camping trips, I connect it through a meter to a ctek dc/dc charger which regulates the voltage. The best i have had from a days charging is 48 amps total for a day, which is adequate to keep the 100AH deep cycle topped up, running  lights and a 80l engel fridge set to 1 degree ( cold beer is essential)

All of this is in a dual battery set up landcruiser, but can be easily extrapolated to a boat...


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"I love standing by the ocean and just knowing what its for"


Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2021 at 1:51pm
Interesting reading through the past posts..
I found a problem with my 5 watt panel, and the 10 plus year old tractor battery is doing fine..

I've recently put a separate 12v system in my patrol, and a fridge/freezer, brought a foldable 160 w solar panel, but found it too big for stowing anywhere, so it's permanent on the roof now. I'm sure in summer months, the fridge would run non stop..

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you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2021 at 1:53pm
Oh, and many years ago, I was advised, spend money on efficiency, not capacity. Get efficient alliances and lights, instead of huge batteries and panels.

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you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...


Posted By: Steps
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2021 at 9:16am
Oh, and many years ago, I was advised, spend money on efficiency, not capacity. Get efficient alliances and lights, instead of huge batteries and panels.

 Yeah.. my example on the chevies above.. swap the old incandescent lights.. in particular the headlights to led  issue gone but border line on wet cold night, lights fans wipers on std 63 amp alternator.


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2021 at 5:39pm
Titahi,
Onto it.

The supposed quality of the Victorian solar controller was a myth.

Even supposed marine solar specialists didn't see the fault in my system.

The Victorian was great with the app.
But actual use in my needs, failure.

What I learnt over some time was possibly a dc- dc convert or was a better answer.
So I purchased a redarc tool.
It linked immediately.
Haven't done a full trial yet.
But it suggests the best alternative yet.

I'm reservedly happy.
Will report on actual results.

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Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 9:11am
LOL

This Victorian solar controller, does it look like this 


Or this 



LOLLOLLOL

I think you may mean VICTRON not VICTORIAN Matto? 


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 9:20am
Many of us in campervans have been running full solar systems for quite a while.  On mine and my wife's small van we run 260w of solar with 210ah (2x105ah deep cycle batteries) and that works a treat for us.  We never need to plug in.   The house batteries are connected via a VSR, but I don't think that really adds much power to our batteries in reality.

We do have all lighting via LED and our only real main drain is the fridge freezer which is 90lt, and that's mainly due to it being constantly on.  Amazing how much draw the tv, satellite box and amp draw combined when on in the evening, but at worst we might watch a couple of hrs each evening.  

Lots of bad advice out there as well.  My brother lives in WA and he fitted a 100w solar panel and 100ah battery to his large caravan as the salesman told him that would be enough for him, his wife and his 3 teenage children Unhappy  I reckon that he needs a system at least 5 times that size, what with the way kids consume power! 
 
Solar panels are cheap in the scheme of things these days, so fit as large as you can feasibly mount.   Remember the outputs stated are in perfect conditions and its rare to have those, so you can realistically only expect about 60% of stated output, most of the time. 

A good quality solar controller will make a difference but its minor really.  Still nice to have bluetooth and be able to monitor your input and outputs. 

Batteries are another one.  Now that LiFeP04 and such batteries are becoming more cost effective, they can make a huge difference as they can store energy far more rapidly than the old lead acid.  Still they come at a cost ($300 for Lead acid 100ah as apposed to $800-$900 for a 100ah LiFeP04) they are really coming down in price as time moves on however. 


Posted By: MATTOO
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 4:34pm
Yes Fraser,
Last post not spell checked by me, I suffered spell checker abuse.

The Victron series of tools is impressive.

Do you use an inverter or are your appliances 12 or 24 volt items.

Certainly some of the best ideas and tools I have been getting are from Aus and US.

With a vehicle, battery capacity, and the new lithiums are impressive, solar and a small gen. the world of mobile living with all the toys is impressive.

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Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!


Posted By: Fraser Hocks
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 10:24pm
Yeah everything is 12v. When you understand electronics you realize that running a 240 volt appliance of a 12 volt system is a bit like trying to tow twin dog trailers with a 1970s mini 😁

Everything has to be designed for a 12v system. To put it into perspective, if you tried to run a 240v fridge off a 12v system (via an invertor) then you would expect to get a fraction of the life out of a battery.

240v AC is well suited to long distance power transmission, but when you're power source is local then it's definitely not your friend.



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