Print Page | Close Window

Trolling with braid

Printed From: The Fishing Website
Category: Saltwater Fishing
Forum Name: The Work-Up
Forum Description: Game fishing related topics here
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=106039
Printed Date: 09 Jun 2026 at 3:01am


Topic: Trolling with braid
Posted By: jonocoogee
Subject: Trolling with braid
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2014 at 8:38pm
I am sure there was a section on this last year but cant find it, Looking at running a couple of large spinning reels, any advice or can anyone point me in the right direction. 

Cheers
Jono


-------------
TAS - Its a real disease



Replies:
Posted By: Don18025
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2014 at 9:30pm
A few guys have used braid, but I think they are all stumped on briad!



Posted By: ET487
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2014 at 10:37pm
Not sure what you want to target but i use my 2 popper rods with 10000 size reels and braid. Biggest yellow fin so far a nice 55 lb. Caught it trolling lures. Must say that to fish with lighter gear from a small boat is much easier that bulky trolling rods and reels.
Not sure if i will have enough braid on for a marlin but time will tell.


Posted By: alan syme
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2014 at 10:49pm
Hi jonocoogee,

I have done quite a bit of game trolling with braid on spin reels. It works well and got some good results with it; yellowfin, mahi mahi, wahoo and gts etc but no marlin though. Great fighting with a lighter rod and reel.

Others have done it successfully and have landed marlin.

I find that line twist can happen from the PR or FG knot, so suggest a swivel somewhere in the system, I put one on in front of a 'normal game leader'. The braid can cut through other lines if the fish goes sideways fast. But this can happen with mono also at times. I use a hard drag and find the braid really helps to punch the hook home in my experience, others will disagree on this point. 

I also do not want to lose a whole lot of braid off the reel too fast as line capacity is not as big as most overhead reels. 

I like to run the braid/spin set ups on the short corners, as i found that braid can get damaged in outriggers or can also tangle easily, so I like to keep it simple and troll from the rod tip on the closer waves off the corners.

I also safety clip the sets in around the reel seat and back on its own cord/rope, keeps the set it in the boat but also allows it to be unclipped quickly when needed.

Good fun and hope it goes well for you.


Posted By: jonocoogee
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2014 at 6:54am
Thanks For the advice guys, 

Alan, sounds really useful, I wont be running riggers so no problem there, maybe 3 rods in a spread. 
Is running them in the short make them run better or is it to minimise the lines cutting each other if they cross. 

Good Idea about the safety clips too, Best go invest in a couple before its too late. 

Do you have you drag set just on or at strike or somewhere in between. (I understand there is no strike mark on a spin reel but just at that kind of tension.)


-------------
TAS - Its a real disease


Posted By: daveo
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2014 at 7:14am
if you are only running a couple lures then run them where they run best... start off with 4th and 5th pressure wave and go forward/back from there

Everyone has different preferences on how much drag to run. some heavy some hard. I prefer hard like to stick the pricks and it seems to work for us...


-------------
http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Fishb8
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2014 at 7:18am
Never trolled with a spinning reel, just a regular overhead reel - caught heaps on braid.
My theory is that braid gives more "action" to lures than mono so the short corner makes it marginal versus mono as such a small amount of line is out. If there's no riggers, then 15M, 20M and 35 M would be reasonable distances back.
Never had any issues with crossing lines. We don't have hard drags just sharp hooks. Not a 100% strike rate but usually very high.
Your average stripy won't take much more than 300 metres of line - no idea of the capacities of your reels.
Best of luck.


-------------
Be yourself; everyone else is already taken


Posted By: Capt Asparagus
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2014 at 8:33am
If you have a decent wind on, then trolling with braid is no problem, the longer nylon wind on will act as enough of a bungee to prevent shock snap-offs. Otherwise, there is no difference between using braid or using good old fashioned Dacron, eh.

-------------
It is only my overwhelming natural humility that mars my perfection.

Captain Asparagus, Superhero, Adventurer.


Posted By: Fishb8
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2014 at 11:02am
I use SwordfishSteve's braid leaders, too!


-------------
Be yourself; everyone else is already taken


Posted By: jonocoogee
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2014 at 3:38pm
Thanks for the advice guys, most people are saying a similar thing, 8-10m windon leader, then a 2-3m trace. Will give this a go and cross my fingers!

-------------
TAS - Its a real disease


Posted By: kaveman
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2014 at 6:52pm
Originally posted by jonocoogee jonocoogee wrote:

Thanks for the advice guys, most people are saying a similar thing, 8-10m windon leader, then a 2-3m trace. Will give this a go and cross my fingers!


Not IGFA legal Johno with 8-10m windon as well as 2-3m leader on lureWink

You are only allowed 30ft total leader length on 10kg+ gear so you will need to reduce the windon length to 6m if using a 3m trace on lureWink (i use 6m windon and 2.4m leader,28ft total so  still well under the limit of 30ft) which is  9.14m


-------------
www.kavemantackle.co.nz


Posted By: alan syme
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2014 at 10:03pm
Originally posted by jonocoogee jonocoogee wrote:

Thanks For the advice guys, 

Alan, sounds really useful, I wont be running riggers so no problem there, maybe 3 rods in a spread. 
Is running them in the short make them run better or is it to minimise the lines cutting each other if they cross. 

Good Idea about the safety clips too, Best go invest in a couple before its too late. 

Do you have you drag set just on or at strike or somewhere in between. (I understand there is no strike mark on a spin reel but just at that kind of tension.)

Agree with what has been said, sharp hooks & run the lures where they look best for your boat and in your wake, this can change for different sea conditions and different lures, no set exact length, but one that gets the lure swimming well.

On my spin reels/braid I run a hard drag that I can pull line of the reel but it is firm and takes a bit of force. When fish hit jigs hard I guess that there is more initial shock than that of a crash bite by a game fish via trolling, and I figure that if my leaders and knots can handle the forces put on them in a tug of war with big Kings/Bass vertically, then they should be up to the task. I am not a fan of putting a lot of excess line/braid in the water if I do not have to (especially on a spin reel), and if possible prefer to keep the fish on a shorter line if possible by having a harder drag from the outset. Not everyone's cup of tea and plenty of very successful people do it very differently.

Once the initial run is over, you can dial up the pressure and really bully fish with a quality spin/braid set if you like to fish that way, it can however work against you though as they can be very green boat side. Not advising you to do this,,but some like it this way.

You probably already a have a fishing style/technique that you are comfortable with mono, so maybe transfer that to what you do with braid?

Good point regarding IGFA stuff, for me I don't worry about any of that as I am not in a club and not fishing comps. I run a usual jigging leader with FG knot to a swivel to a 'normal' full length or slightly longer leader, so it is like a wind on initially in that I can wind the heavier leader onto the reel but then the fish is still leadered by hand, so its not a wind on. Once gain plenty of others do it very differently to me and are very successful.



Print Page | Close Window