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'Post your rod' Picture thread

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kaveman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 8:46am
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Drunk again BadfishClownLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Fullon Fishing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 9:38am
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There is a degree wheel template you can print off to help with guide angle on acidrod.com, it comes with instructions too.

http://www.acidrod.com/acidrod_layout.html
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 10:22am
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Originally posted by kaveman kaveman wrote:

Drunk again BadfishClownLOL
 
Still drunk Kaveman, there's a difference!
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 10:47am
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Originally posted by LouisJ LouisJ wrote:




So is it right that the first guide is offset to the left, then the second slightly right, then gradually rotate round the blank until it's 180 degrees from the top? Also, how many guides do you use to transition to the bottom?
 
That photo is a bit deceiving but the first guide is a 12 o'clock (on the cross section). There is many ways that people do their spirals, and for us it changes a bit here and there to suit the blanks.
The way this one is set up there is 4 guides in transition. The second guide is aligned on the off side so that it guides the line dead straight down the middle of the first guide.
The third guide is back at 12 o'clock, the 4th,5h,6th and 7th are all in transition and the 8,9,10 & the tip are at 6 o'clock.
You'll see all sorts of different styles but this is what we have found works best for what we're after.
You need to be able to retain all of the important aspects of the rod, so you want to support the line evenly over the length of the rod, you want to keep the line as close to the blank that is practical, and you don't want to effect the overall action or strength of the rod. So it can take a bit of practise to get right. You more than likely wont have the ability to do any destruction testing so if you do give it a go incorporate a higher level of "safe working load" into the rod. Tape the guides on and tweak them until your happy. It'll take time but it'll take longer to strip thread off the rod and do it again!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote daveo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 12:22pm
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Originally posted by Badfish Badfish wrote:


Daveo 
Yup both these are double over bound. I double over bind all heavier rods and anything (like this second rod) that has a light colour on top of a dark colour. You can single over bind but the colour comes out far better with the double. 

Everything there is 'A' thread over 'A' mate. But as an aside you can't put 'A' over 'D'. Well that's not 100% right, you can but it's ugly as sin. If you have to put 'D' down as your under bind glue the unders first. That way the 'A' overs will have the smooth finish of the glue to go down on. 


I was meant to write that the other way around.... A under and d over but thanks for that

Think I need to order some more thread anyone else keen to split shipping costs from mudhole?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 12:43pm
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Flyshop.co.nz has some thread if you don't wanna go the U.S. route.

 
Never bought from them but the price seems pretty good.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote LouisJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 6:10pm
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Originally posted by Badfish Badfish wrote:

Originally posted by LouisJ LouisJ wrote:




So is it right that the first guide is offset to the left, then the second slightly right, then gradually rotate round the blank until it's 180 degrees from the top? Also, how many guides do you use to transition to the bottom?

 
That photo is a bit deceiving but the first guide is a 12 o'clock (on the cross section). There is many ways that people do their spirals, and for us it changes a bit here and there to suit the blanks.
The way this one is set up there is 4 guides in transition. The second guide is aligned on the off side so that it guides the line dead straight down the middle of the first guide.
The third guide is back at 12 o'clock, the 4th,5h,6th and 7th are all in transition and the 8,9,10 & the tip are at 6 o'clock.
You'll see all sorts of different styles but this is what we have found works best for what we're after.
You need to be able to retain all of the important aspects of the rod, so you want to support the line evenly over the length of the rod, you want to keep the line as close to the blank that is practical, and you don't want to effect the overall action or strength of the rod. So it can take a bit of practise to get right. You more than likely wont have the ability to do any destruction testing so if you do give it a go incorporate a higher level of "safe working load" into the rod. Tape the guides on and tweak them until your happy. It'll take time but it'll take longer to strip thread off the rod and do it again!

Cheers Badfish, will have a go with a couple of rods.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2013 at 9:18pm
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Taken a week but finally cleared enough work so that I could get the first two coats on one of my rods today. 
First super fine coat went on this morning 2.5:2.5:1.5 mix (that's resin,hardener,thinners), and just now second coat 2.5:2.5:0.75 mix. 


Got to go to Auckland tomorrow but hopefully don't get back to late so I can put the final coat on tomorrow evening. Haven't decided whether or not I'll put any labels on this one, really want to get out and give this one a thrash so maybe not.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Griffo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2013 at 9:44pm
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Looking Damn good there Badfish... Threadwork looks primo

What thinner do you use in the resin mix? Haven't thinned my resin in the past, but definitely like the minimalist approach when it comes to resin build up....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2013 at 10:00pm
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It's international epoxy thinners #7. It's pretty nice but you have to really really mix the **** out of it when your mixing up or it leaves a smokey trail in the finish that you'll have to wipe off and even then it doesn't always all come out. So I mix the pox first then add the thinners and stir. Then stir again!

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote GSPOT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2013 at 9:12am
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All these awesome rod builds have given me some inspiration. 

Am a bit nervous about posting these updates as you pros have some outstanding works of art but anyways. 

I had some Fuji concept guilds SIC guilds lying around after a garage door incident so decided my 7 year old girls bait / trout spinner needed a face lift. She wanted Orange and blue.  This is what i have done so far. The first 2 guilds are going to be reversed like an egi rod for casting efficiency. I am also reversing the colours on these two.  Blue under Orange. The others will be orange under blue.  

Just a question for the pro's out there.  When putting the blue over the metalic copper (orange), will the metalic show through?  And BADFISH how did you not have the purple shine through the yellow above? Just good tidy wrapping?

Anyways one guild done. 



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MarkE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2013 at 9:26am
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Originally posted by GSPOT GSPOT wrote:

 

Just a question for the pro's out there.  When putting the blue over the metalic copper (orange), will the metalic show through?  And BADFISH how did you not have the purple shine through the yellow above? Just good tidy wrapping?

 
Ive found its best to double wrap the top thread if its lighter than the underbind. Pretty sure that's what BF has done also.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2013 at 6:21pm
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Yea what mark said, just double over bind it. 
Nice work too, over binding with metallics can be a ***** to get looking good, so if you can do that you'll be sweet with normal thread Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 10:49am
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Bit bored again, freakin cold days disrupting my gluing again Angry. So thinking about a rebuild of one of my old kayak rods I built myself a couple years ago. Not a full rebuild, just a new set of K guides I think. Here she is now, I'll post up some pics once the new guides are on. 

Short Butt section that I find more comfortable on the yak. 


In comparison to a conventional butt section I did on the same blank. (which now I look at it is screaming for a rebuild to )


And before I forget both built on St Croix (2566MHF2 to be specific) which NZ has to be the most under rated companies out there!

Split fore grip for... no real reason... just like the look. Although it's always bothered me that I didn't bind the section above the reel seat! Might do somethin about that while I'm at it. 

These grips are less than half their original OD, took a lot more shaping that I'd usually do but felt it made the short butt section look a bit more proportioned with the sleeker grips.    


Pretty standard old gunsmoke fuji SIC single foots, although I don't get a lot of wind knots I do get the odd one and on a yak it's a ***** to have to deal with any. 




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Men In Black Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 1:00pm
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Originally posted by TCG TCG wrote:

Keep them coming Badfish, love your work
 
So do we, a truly valuable member of the Synit Team... just need to convince his to build fulltime with us ....LOLLOLLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 5:23pm
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You sucking up to get me to pull some over time or something
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Badfish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 9:01pm
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And we're done with this one, (well, until I decide what I'm going to do with labels..) onto the next one now.




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote LouisJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2013 at 4:16pm
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OK, heres a little acid wrapped Kilwell Jelly Tip 6-8kg that I have just finished. 7', Alps reel seat, Fuji MN as 1st guide then Fuji K's in alconite. Beautiful rod, will  be used for straylining and bottom fishing for Tiks and Cod.














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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Fishing Addiction Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2013 at 4:26pm
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llooking good. got to be happy with that result
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote LouisJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2013 at 4:52pm
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Yep, very. Just need to get a bend in it
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