![]() What Joker said makes complete sense. When it's idling it'll be a little cooler as you power it for a while it warms up. When the lead is cool the crack will form a gap, causing it to arc across. As the engine and lead warms the gap closes, no more arc and runs perfect. I had an HT lead on car do exactly the same thing. If that's is the case it is likely no fault code, as the engine doesn't have sensors on the leads, so can't detect anything wrong. I would buy a spare lead and next time it does it (I would try and make it happen some where safe, like 2 minutes from the ramp or even better drum in backyard), then you can pull one lead if the problem gets worse then you know it's not that lead. If it doesn't then it's that lead and you replace it with spare and bingo engine fixed. Worse case scenario that doesn't work and you have a spare lead. |
![]() Set your meter to OHMs place probe at each end of lead and there is your reading,if you get a different reading to others replace.Should read 0 ohms just got boy to do mine as a test. Seeing how some say you cant measure resistance with multi meter |
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Um no. I didn't say that. Your original advise was to use a voltmeter. A multimeter will read ohms and volts plus a heap more stuff. An ohm meter will show discrepancies with the conducting part of the lead but won't account for insulation leakage voltage. Trust me, I'm a rocket doctor. Well ok I'm just a retired sparkie. While this may seem like pedantics to some, it would be a very bad thing to test a HV lead with a voltmeter for two reasons: you will get a nasty shock & your voltmeter will be buggered. There are two parts in determining the effectiveness of an HV lead. The resistance and the insulation resistance.
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![]() But that is not the symptom of the issue. A multi meter won't help with that one. Your approach/advice is incorrect. Alan |
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